Gregor
09-09-2006, 10:36 PM
Hello Again,
As a recent AG convert, I have the usual assortment of goodies, some here and some in transit. Initially, be honing my skills with our three cars then see where this affliction, oh I mean addiction takes me.
First up is my DD, an 06 Crystal Grey Metallic Subaru WRX STI. Yes, the wing is over the top, but it was not optional. Plus I find it makes it easier to locate the car in a parking lot.
The car was new last November and has been washed and waxed with NTX regularly. I only found this site a few weeks ago so I’ll admit to some less than perfect washing habits. Despite my bad behavior, the paint is still in decent shape and no micro marring is visible, even though it would be hard to see with this color.
Here is the car:
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238264/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238266/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238267/original.jpg
There are two minor scratches which responded well to Scratch-X but are still visible. There is one major scratch that is 2 inches long and into the color coat. I’m handling the major scratch with some touch-up paint, wet sanding and finishing with compound and polish. If it doesn’t turn out well, I’ll get the fender painted.
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/65929988/large.jpg
For this and the other two cars I have the following available:
PC
Edge 2000 Pad kit
PB SSR2.5
PB SSR1
Klasse Twins
Pinnacle Clay and lube
NTX car washWe are heading into winter up here in Seattle. There’s no sense in putting on a high gloss as it will be lost under the dirty road grime during my next commute. My goal is to repair the clear coat as much as possible and protect it for the winter. Next spring I’ll go all out with the top layer of carnauba.
Here’s my plan, questions at the end, and comments appreciated,
1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Wash
4) Spot repair scratches with PB SSR1, then SSR 2.5 if that isn’t doing it with appropriate pads. Then re-polish with SSR1 as appropriate.
5) Klasse AIO
6) Klasse SG, Wait 12 hours, Apply second coat, and remove 12 hours later
Questions:
1) Is there any benefit to going over the car with SSR 1? My thinking was that it is better to save the clear coat for when scratches are visible and removing a bit would restore the luster. Just wondering it would help put a high gloss on the clear coat before the coatings go on.
2) Is AIO needed? I assumed since it’s such a light abrasive, there’s no harm and it would help ensure the surface is cleaned before sealing?
3) Is there any benefit to applying the Klasse product with the PC? I’m thinking the AIO might polish better if used by the PC, but not sure about that. As for the SG, I was planning doing it by hand.
4) After I placed my order I started reading about WG glaze and now wish I had added it. Is glaze in the AIO enough, or should I consider ordering some before I start? It I added WG glaze, I assume it would go on after the AIO and before the SG.
5) OK, so I’m a bit confused about the glazing properties of the Klasse products. From the instructions, it looks like both products are a glaze. Any clarity would be helpful.
As a recent AG convert, I have the usual assortment of goodies, some here and some in transit. Initially, be honing my skills with our three cars then see where this affliction, oh I mean addiction takes me.
First up is my DD, an 06 Crystal Grey Metallic Subaru WRX STI. Yes, the wing is over the top, but it was not optional. Plus I find it makes it easier to locate the car in a parking lot.
The car was new last November and has been washed and waxed with NTX regularly. I only found this site a few weeks ago so I’ll admit to some less than perfect washing habits. Despite my bad behavior, the paint is still in decent shape and no micro marring is visible, even though it would be hard to see with this color.
Here is the car:
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238264/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238266/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238267/original.jpg
There are two minor scratches which responded well to Scratch-X but are still visible. There is one major scratch that is 2 inches long and into the color coat. I’m handling the major scratch with some touch-up paint, wet sanding and finishing with compound and polish. If it doesn’t turn out well, I’ll get the fender painted.
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/65929988/large.jpg
For this and the other two cars I have the following available:
PC
Edge 2000 Pad kit
PB SSR2.5
PB SSR1
Klasse Twins
Pinnacle Clay and lube
NTX car washWe are heading into winter up here in Seattle. There’s no sense in putting on a high gloss as it will be lost under the dirty road grime during my next commute. My goal is to repair the clear coat as much as possible and protect it for the winter. Next spring I’ll go all out with the top layer of carnauba.
Here’s my plan, questions at the end, and comments appreciated,
1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Wash
4) Spot repair scratches with PB SSR1, then SSR 2.5 if that isn’t doing it with appropriate pads. Then re-polish with SSR1 as appropriate.
5) Klasse AIO
6) Klasse SG, Wait 12 hours, Apply second coat, and remove 12 hours later
Questions:
1) Is there any benefit to going over the car with SSR 1? My thinking was that it is better to save the clear coat for when scratches are visible and removing a bit would restore the luster. Just wondering it would help put a high gloss on the clear coat before the coatings go on.
2) Is AIO needed? I assumed since it’s such a light abrasive, there’s no harm and it would help ensure the surface is cleaned before sealing?
3) Is there any benefit to applying the Klasse product with the PC? I’m thinking the AIO might polish better if used by the PC, but not sure about that. As for the SG, I was planning doing it by hand.
4) After I placed my order I started reading about WG glaze and now wish I had added it. Is glaze in the AIO enough, or should I consider ordering some before I start? It I added WG glaze, I assume it would go on after the AIO and before the SG.
5) OK, so I’m a bit confused about the glazing properties of the Klasse products. From the instructions, it looks like both products are a glaze. Any clarity would be helpful.