Project #1 – Silver car with good paint

[Gregor]

Hello Again,

As a recent AG convert, I have the usual assortment of goodies, some here and some in transit. Initially, be honing my skills with our three cars then see where this affliction, oh I mean addiction takes me.

First up is my DD, an 06 Crystal Grey Metallic Subaru WRX STI. Yes, the wing is over the top, but it was not optional. Plus I find it makes it easier to locate the car in a parking lot.

The car was new last November and has been washed and waxed with NTX regularly. I only found this site a few weeks ago so I’ll admit to some less than perfect washing habits. Despite my bad behavior, the paint is still in decent shape and no micro marring is visible, even though it would be hard to see with this color.

Here is the car:

http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238264/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238266/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/57238267/original.jpg

There are two minor scratches which responded well to Scratch-X but are still visible. There is one major scratch that is 2 inches long and into the color coat. I’m handling the major scratch with some touch-up paint, wet sanding and finishing with compound and polish. If it doesn’t turn out well, I’ll get the fender painted.

http://www.pbase.com/greg_campbell/image/65929988/large.jpg

For this and the other two cars I have the following available:

PC
Edge 2000 Pad kit
PB SSR2.5
PB SSR1
Klasse Twins
Pinnacle Clay and lube
NTX car washWe are heading into winter up here in Seattle. There’s no sense in putting on a high gloss as it will be lost under the dirty road grime during my next commute. My goal is to repair the clear coat as much as possible and protect it for the winter. Next spring I’ll go all out with the top layer of carnauba.

Here’s my plan, questions at the end, and comments appreciated,


1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Wash
4) Spot repair scratches with PB SSR1, then SSR 2.5 if that isn’t doing it with appropriate pads. Then re-polish with SSR1 as appropriate.
5) Klasse AIO
6) Klasse SG, Wait 12 hours, Apply second coat, and remove 12 hours later

Questions:
1) Is there any benefit to going over the car with SSR 1? My thinking was that it is better to save the clear coat for when scratches are visible and removing a bit would restore the luster. Just wondering it would help put a high gloss on the clear coat before the coatings go on.


2) Is AIO needed? I assumed since it’s such a light abrasive, there’s no harm and it would help ensure the surface is cleaned before sealing?


3) Is there any benefit to applying the Klasse product with the PC? I’m thinking the AIO might polish better if used by the PC, but not sure about that. As for the SG, I was planning doing it by hand.


4) After I placed my order I started reading about WG glaze and now wish I had added it. Is glaze in the AIO enough, or should I consider ordering some before I start? It I added WG glaze, I assume it would go on after the AIO and before the SG.

5) OK, so I’m a bit confused about the glazing properties of the Klasse products. From the instructions, it looks like both products are a glaze. Any clarity would be helpful.

[ScottB]

Questions:
1) Is there any benefit to going over the car with SSR 1? My thinking was that it is better to save the clear coat for when scratches are visible and removing a bit would restore the luster. Just wondering it would help put a high gloss on the clear coat before the coatings go on.

Look up "JEWELING" -- it is the process of using a finishing polish to amp up an already perfect finish. Kinda like polishing a diamond to gem status. You will loose little to no real clearcoat.


2) Is AIO needed? I assumed since it’s such a light abrasive, there’s no harm and it would help ensure the surface is cleaned before sealing?

If you are going to jewel the surface then AIO is really not needed. More of a paint cleaner than any abrasive.


3) Is there any benefit to applying the Klasse product with the PC? I’m thinking the AIO might polish better if used by the PC, but not sure about that. As for the SG, I was planning doing it by hand.

AIO can be done by hand or buffer. The real need for the buffer would be highly oxidized paint. Since car in good shape, I would use hand if you really decide to go this step. Now Klasse SG is a pain to remove, especially if over applied. So use sparingly and you can use a buffer to remove. If you get an especially hard spot to remove, readd SG and immediately buff off. Also consider applying by the use of a small spray bottle (think travel bottle, hairspray)


4) After I placed my order I started reading about WG glaze and now wish I had added it. Is glaze in the AIO enough, or should I consider ordering some before I start? It I added WG glaze, I assume it would go on after the AIO and before the SG.

WG Glaze is designed to enhance and add some gloss to WG sealant. Because it was designed for sealants to specifically, it can be used with all sealants with nice results. I dont find AIO to be particularly glossy nor to add any real filling ability, so I would venture to say both products are needed in your aersonal. If you decide to protect with a carnauba only, no sealant, then consider RMG or VMG from Clearkote.

5) OK, so I’m a bit confused about the glazing properties of the Klasse products. From the instructions, it looks like both products are a glaze. Any clarity would be helpful

Klasse AIO --- paint cleaner with acrylic sealant protection
Klasse SG --- paint sealant only , pure, added gloss protection

Since you seem to be swaying towards Klasse (great products) then consider some Poorboys Spray/Gloss, Clearkote Quikshine, Sonus Acrylic Spritz, or other qd'er plus to use between detailing sessions. It does not have the gloss that some of us prefer especially when seen against newer sealants like DP, WG, Duragloss, and UPP. Klasse AIO/SG will outlast them all several times over however, and is very durable.

[Gregor]

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the tip about jeweling, found many interesting threads on the subject. I was leaning toward the Klasse products because I had heard good things about them and like the idea of having an acrylic layer on my car. Plus, and to be honest, I haven't sorted out all the different products and what's the best for each step. Going with the Klasse twins is good protection for the winter and gives me some time to sort the rest of the products out.

My neihbor gave me a bunch of QD from Chemical Guys. Its the only stuff I've tried and not sure how good it is compared to the rest, smells good though. I'll try some other others.

One more question, what do you think about topping SG with a carnuba like Natty Blue or Souveran?

[ScottB]

toppings are a mixed breed. Some like the absolute best depth and wetness (like me) and thus need to end with a canauba. That said, in the next detailing session you will likely need to do everything over again. With using "just" a sealant, you can add additional layers at will. So choice becomes yours ...

[FloridaNative]

Listen the this man, he knows what he's talking about! :p I totally agree. If you want to layer the sealants then leave it untopped, but if you've put on all the layers you want to put on and want added depth and wetness you could top with a good quality carnauba. :)

[Meghan]

PS- I like the color!

[justin_murphy]

Man...One nice ride.
Killr is dead on.
Take his advice and try. Won't hurt at all. You'll be surprised.

[ScottB]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_013.jpg

While looking back on some of my previous silver ride ... I truly wonder why I went back to black !

[Gregor]

Thanks for all the replies. I wanted to let you all know how this turned out. I first started with the scatch repair. I had filled the scratch with touch-up paint a few weeks ago and started the wet sanding process last week. After the having perfected the process on my old 92 VW I had a lot of confidence going in. As you all know, paint hardness varies between car manufactures and also found out those differences also include touch-up paint. On the VW the touch up paint was fairly soft and responded well to the 2000 wet sanding. On the STI, the touch up paint was extreemly hard and wouldn't flatten out. Unfortunately, the added effort combined with the softer clear coat on the STI resulted in the clear coat being sanded off in two spots. I was thinking about masking off the area around the scratch prior to wet sanding and wish that I had. I also discovered that the metal under the scratch was dented in slightly, so even a sucessful repair would have left a dent. I had a sick feeling for the rest of the night. I got quotes to get it repainted and its not cheap.

After my experince with the appearently soft clearcoat, I was a bit nervous starting the PC learning curve on perfect paint. Instead I scaled down my plan and will get some time in with the PC on my older cars first. I ended up going with just AIO and one coat of SG. I would have gone with two but ran out of time. I plan on adding another coat after the next wash.

I was short on time because the family mini van was in bad need of a wash. The AIO and SG did so well on the STI, I gave it a go on the van. The paint is dark green, 7 years old and in bad shape. I was amazed how it improved after the AIO. I never liked washing the van because it always looked like there was a thin coat of dirt in the paint when it dried. After the AIO, it was clear and the metal flakes stoud out nicely. I had planned on starting off with the PC and SSR2.5, but the results with AIO were so good I just kept going until I had finished the entire surface. I finished with a coat of SG.

Also did an engine wash as well as complete interior job including shampoo'ing. The interior work gave an oportunity to test out the 303 samples I just recieved. On the dash it was excellent, leaving a nice mat finish. The 303 stain remover was not a stand out and I can get similar results with simple green.

After all the comments about AIO and SG I was not expecting much more than a good clean and a winter coat. I was extreemly impressed with its performance on both cars, expecially the van. I still have a lot if swirls, marks and scratches to fix on the van but it already looks 100 times better. Also since I'm new to all these products and processes, I thought it'd be good to ramp up on each product individually, so I'm more familiar with the products strengths and limitations.

I was going to get some pics but it started to rain and reflection of my garage ceiling is not very striking.

[coondog64]

The interior work gave an oportunity to test out the 303 samples I just recieved. On the dash it was excellent, leaving a nice mat finish. The 303 stain remover was not a stand out and I can get similar results with simple green.

While the same look results can be obtianed using a cleaner like simple green, protection is the strong point of 303.

303 is basically like sun block for your car's interior, and it will greatly help reduce any fading over time compared to simple green. Both will clean just as good, but 303 gives you protection as well.

[supercharged]

Wolfgang Spot Remover is an awesome product when you need strong cleaning power. Again, it's not cheap, so I only use it on my car, not for bulk detailing.