Another newcomer in need of specific answer

[Laethageal]

Hello all!

I got myself what I call my first real car. I went from a 98 Contour to a wonderful Infinity M35x 2006 in a dark blue color. Being that my last car was a garbage, I never even thought about waxing it. Now, things sare different and I tried to gather all the info I could by reading review, comment on different product ranging from clay, polish, finishing polish, glaze, wax, sealant and orbital polisher. I'm a little lost not in the way to work those product, I think I read enough of your useful thread about this, but about what would best suits my needs.

The last owner of my M35x had a taste for automatic car wash since there is all those swirls over the entire car. I'd want to remove them, polish and either seal or wax the car after. I saw the Meg's line of product and Menzerna being appreciated by most, but got no idea what would be best for me, and if a PC with 4 inch pad would be alright or if I should got with a flex from the beginning.

Also, is was wondering what would happen if I try to remove the swirls without first claying my car. Is it a necessary step before doing so ? I heard the Infiniti clear is pretty soft so I was wondering if the contaminant might stop me from doing a good job if I do not clay.

Any thought about this, or experience with infinity paint would be welcome!

Thank you for this complete library about detailing by the way!

Louis Nadeau,
2006 Infinity M35X Dark Blue,
Montreal, Canada

[ScottB]

Wash --- Clay --- Polish ---then Protect

Polishing --- snap up some Menzerna PowerFINISH and a good buffer (PC, G110, Flex) , the Nissan paint is quite easy to correct in most applications and you likely will be able to get away with one polish.

[4fit?]

You definitely don't want to skip that clay step. Give your products a contaminant-free surface to adhere to.

[PerroneFord]

Also, is was wondering what would happen if I try to remove the swirls without first claying my car. Is it a necessary step before doing so ? I heard the Infiniti clear is pretty soft so I was wondering if the contaminant might stop me from doing a good job if I do not clay.

What will happen? You will take all those contaminants and grind them into the paint all over the car. Not a good idea. And even if that does not happen, the surface will not be properly smooth, so the polish will not produce the desired result.

Claying is very simple and goes fairly quickly. It's a very easy step to do.

[Blackthorn One]

Polishing without claying is a big mistake. You can pick up contaminants embedded in the paint during polishing that can then act like bits of sandpaper scratching up the car as you polish. You need to clay first to get those little bits of potentially abrasive bits removed before polishing.
If you want a more powerful polisher that can get more scratches out that is a smoother machine, and you can afford it now, then get the Flex now. Otherwise, you'll buy the PC and then just end up buying the Flex later and have two polishers.

[Jimmie]

Wash --- Clay --- Polish ---then Protect

Polishing --- snap up some Menzerna PowerFINISH and a good buffer (PC, G110, Flex) , the Nissan paint is quite easy to correct in most applications and you likely will be able to get away with one polish.
:iagree::whs:

[Laethageal]

Thanks for the answer guys!

I was asking myself, will any clay do the job ? I can get some ice clay from Turtle wax at the nearest Canadian Tire. Or should I order sosme pinnacle poly clay at the same time as the PC or flex, I'm still undecided...

Also, as a last question, what's best for durability, wax or sealant ? I read some good comments about the wolfgang 3.0 sealant, is it a good choice or you guys sgot something better to recommend ?

Thank you in advance!

Louis Nadeau
2006 Infiniti M35X Dark Blue
Montreal, Canada

[PerroneFord]

Buy real clay. Autogeek sells many brands of excellent clay. And use a good lubricant with the clay. Makes a big difference.

If durability is the desired outcome, then sealants will be your best choice. Though you can put wax on top of sealant if you would like the best of both worlds.

The Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant is the best I've ever used. I haven't been doing this long though so others may have other views. I use Optimum Poli-Seal on my own car and it's excellent also.

[Rsurfer]

Polishing without claying is a big mistake. You can pick up contaminants embedded in the paint during polishing that can then act like bits of sandpaper scratching up the car as you polish. You need to clay first to get those little bits of potentially abrasive bits removed before polishing.
If you want a more powerful polisher that can get more scratches out that is a smoother machine, and you can afford it now, then get the Flex now. Otherwise, you'll buy the PC and then just end up buying the Flex later and have two polishers.Everyone seems to alway's push the Flex. The OP only has 1 car and is not detailing for a living or even part-time. Yes, it will take him a little longer to correct with a pc, but does he really need a $300 machine to polish 6mos to a year from now? With good washing and drying techniques he may only need to spot buff. JMO

[Blackthorn One]

Everyone seems to alway's push the Flex. The OP only has 1 car and is not detailing for a living or even part-time. Yes, it will take him a little longer to correct with a pc, but does he really need a $300 machine to polish 6mos to a year from now? With good washing and drying techniques he may only need to spot buff. JMO
You are right. With just one car, he won't really NEED the Flex. Frankly, I think with just one car, one can do the whole thing by hand, for that matter. To me, the only reason to have a machine is to polish. Once a car is polished, the waxing by hand is really easy to do, and doesn't really take any more time by hand than by machine, both to wax and to remove wax, partly because microfiber towels make it so easy. When you factor in the time of setting up the machine and cleaning all the pads, I don't see much advantage to using a machine for waxing.

I'd like a Flex because I have 6 cars to maintain, and because it might be nice to do some other cars on the side. I also like to use really nice tools. When I use a tool, it is spending my time in my life, and using a tool that is more efficient, and smoother, and just plain works better makes the whole experience of doing any job just a little less stressful and tedious, and just makes it overall more enjoyable. When I wanted a wheel truing stand for my bicycle wheels, I bought the Park Professional truing stand for $200, even though I hardly ever true my wheels, and I could have bought one for $80. I like it because it's self centering, and just less hassle to use. After all, it's my time that is being used maintaining my wheels, and so if I have to do it, I'd rather it be as trouble free as possible. It's all about what makes your overall experience of life more enjoyable. Do you want a better tool to make your job go a little easier, or would you rather spend the money on something else? It's all up to the buyer.

[Blackthorn One]

Buy real clay. Autogeek sells many brands of excellent clay. And use a good lubricant with the clay. Makes a big difference.

If durability is the desired outcome, then sealants will be your best choice. Though you can put wax on top of sealant if you would like the best of both worlds.

The Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant is the best I've ever used. I haven't been doing this long though so others may have other views. I use Optimum Poli-Seal on my own car and it's excellent also.

Griot's Garage clay and their Speed Shine are both excellent. I wholeheartedly recommend them, at least for every few months claying. Griots clay is ever so finely abrasive, not so much that the car doesn't shine great after you use it, it certainly does, but you can get a little more gloss after following up with a using a really fine polish. I've been wanting to try the Pinnacle Ultra Poly clay for a while now, because I want a clay that I can use to remove paint contaminants as quickly as possible by claying as soon as they get on my paint to best protect the paint. with the Ultra Poly clay on BOGO right now, I think now is the time to buy. I'd consider getting the Griots and the Ultra Poly clay.

I too agree that Wolfgang's sealant is the best looking sealant.

[Laethageal]

Thanks for the help.

Ok so since I only have 1 car, am a little bit on a budget, I think from your advice I'll be getting the PC. With it, I'm gonna have to order the Pinnacle ultra poly clay from BOGO and some Pinnacle lub, also on BOGO. As for the polish, you guys told me to get the Menz PowerFinish, but I just wanted to make sure this 1 step polishing was enough before going with the wolfgang sealant 3.0.

Finally, I am gonna order that 5" velcro backplate for the PC, and some 5.5" white and green CCS pad and some cobra microfiber towel.

Is anything wrong in my list, or should I try to get one of the AG kit and add what is missing? I tried looking at them, but I was getting lost with some kit offering 5.5" pad, then some kits with 6.5"

Thank you again!
Can't wait to post before and after pic of the car!

Louis Nadeau
2006 Infiniti M35X Dark Blue
Montreal, Canada

[PerroneFord]

I am going to "suggest" that you purchase 3 polishes. One finishing, one medium, and one compound. This way, you will have the tools to tackle anything that comes your way. you'll never know when you'll get a bad scratch or a door ding that you really want to take out. Or your buddy asks you to work on his swirl-ridden car for $100 + beer.

I just started doing real details for money this weekend. Where it wasn't a friend or a neighbor, or a GF. Let me put it this way. This weekend's work paid for my buffer and the great majority of my supplies. And I have 4 more details lined up this month.

Once you develop some decent skill at this, it really is a nice money-making hobby. Good thing too, because I have enough hobbies that drain my money!