Klasse sealant!!

[Denis1985]

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/autogeek_2048_72339087


Hi guys! This sealant is SO HARD to buff away!!!

My arms hurt!

What product are u using guys to facilitate the task?


Thanks!

[bunyz06rabbitt]

The stuff is actually quite awesome and if you don't know the trick to it's application then it's very easy to over do it. The trick is to moisten your applicator pad or MF with your favorite detail spray, then apply VERY LITTLE product to your pad. Less is definately more! And when you're laying it down, it should seem like hardly any product at all is even detectable. That's how rich and concentrated this stuff is! Do a panel at a time, then move on to the next panel. Not the whole car, then try to wipe it off. Too hard! :welcome:

[drastic_detail]

You didn't have to take the lords name in vain!

[supercharged]

You didn't have to take the lords name in vain!
true that...
back to the topic, use a small spray bottle, spray it on and wipe it right off. Don't let it sit. Otherwise you will need some elbow grease and physicla exercise to remove it...But it's well worth it, it is soooooooooo durable.

[Lowprofile]

Seems like everything I read on this product makes me think its a woman. Doesn't seem like a product that would be very time/cost effective if doing this as a business but, for my own vehicle, seems like just the product I would love.



Acrylic (polymer) sealants
The molecular structure of all polymers are based on a chain of carbon atoms, chemically it is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. Polyacrylate - a group of polymers which could be referred to as plastics generally, they are noted for their transparency. Some acrylate monomers (the components of the polymers) used to form acrylate polymers may be acrylic acid, butyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or methyl acrylate. With polyethylene-acrylics, there is no reaction and it is more like a lacquer that dries.

These products contain polyethylene-acrylic acid that causes minor etching of the paint, which enables a modified ‘molecular’ bonding with the paint surface, which in turn results in durability like most polyethylene based products. Zaino and Dura Gloss are two examples of acrylic polymers, which produce a ‘clear bright shine’. Klasse or Werkstatt (acrylic polymers) tend to produce a ‘liquid glow’. The acrylic paint solvent carrier system allows the dense molecule to spread and cross-link forming a hard protective surface.

Fracture/evaporation temperatures
265 – 285.oF (130 – 140.°C)


Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (SG)
Is a companion product to AIO (http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/autolink.php?id=14&forumid=8&script=showthread) that builds finish depth and clarity. It contains no cleaners, wax or polishes and can be layered. With each layer the gloss and depth of shine will increase and the tough acrylic protection will also increase.
The longer SG stays on the surface, the easier it is to buff off, if it is found to be difficult in almost every instance it can be traced to using too much product, applying with a dry, not damp, applicator and/or not waiting long enough before buffing. If there is resistance to easy buffing after its dry, simply mist the surface with any quick-detail spray and wipe with a dry Micro fibre Cloth.

(SG) Application Methodology
1.Shake product container vigorously to ensure mixing
2.Do not dampen the applicator with water or use any lubricating sprays during application.
3.Apply to a clean, dry surface, with a temperature of >50 – 90<o F, away from direct sunlight
4.Place a small amount of product (about the size of a dime) on to a dry applicator (not the paint surface) and using a light to medium even pressure, apply a thin even film of product to paint surface.
5.As an alternative, put some SG into small misting spray bottle, this will enable you to cover the applicator while using the minimum amount of product and this will ensure a super thin application.
6.Apply to whole vehicle (1-1.5oz should be sufficient for most vehicles) taking care not to apply to absorbent surfaces (i.e. unpainted plastics and rubber trim)
7.First pass: apply (ultra- thin) roof to floor on vertical surfaces (doors, fenders and skirts) and across on horizontal surfaces (roof, hood and trunk)
8.This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising light refraction, and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle.
9. Second pass (ultra- thin) apply in direction of airflow, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back.
10.Third pass (ultra- thin) and any subsequent layer(s): apply in same ‘direction of airflow’ and leave on for 1-2 hours before removing residue
11.Finally spray a very thin layer of Sonus Spritz and buff with a 100&#37; cotton cloth
12.Wipe On / Wipe Off method: apply to the first panel and then to the second, remove residue from the first panel and apply to the third panel, removing residue from the second panel, and etc
13.As air is the primary catalyst for the acrylic to dry, low air temperatures and / or humidity may effect the time requirements.
14.Residues should be dry when you buff them. If the residues are still wet, you are using too much product.
15.Swipe Test: after sufficient drying times do a quick swipe test with your finger, if the paint is clear and no smearing or drag is evident, the residue is ready to be removed. If the area you have swiped is smudgy, or streaky, or there is noticeable product, then it has not had sufficient time to set-up, allow more time before your remove it.
16.Removal: product can be removed with a 100% cotton (Alpine DF™ Microfiber towel) or a with a Porter-Cable random orbital polisher and a non-cutting type (Grey) foam pad
17.Sonus Spritz is formulated the same way as Klasse and can be used to ‘even’ out layers or as a quick detailer

SG is formulated from hard resins and therefore must be given sufficient time to cross-link, >12 hours, or anytime up to 72 hour period is recommended before other layers / products are applied, this provides better durability and a deeper shine

Approximate cross-link period at various temperatures- at 60oF- 48hours, 70oF-36 hours, 80oF- 24 hours (cross-linking is a function of / temperature / humidity / time

Notes
1. Product can be applied by hand or machine (Cyclo Polisher or a Porter-Cable random orbital buffer) best results are obtained with machine application
2. Klasse SG can be diluted (3:1 SG / distilled water (makes for easier residue removal)
3. Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used
4. If there are stubborn spots (usually because too much SG was used, fill a spray bottle with a 4:1 solution of distilled water / SG and lightly spray the panel and buff. After you're done, keep the bottle around and use as a QD.
5. Sonus Acrylic spritz (Autopia.org) a perfect compliment to the AIO (http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/autolink.php?id=14&forumid=8&script=showthread) /KSG system - it’s a QD for acrylic sealants
6. A 3:1 solution of Distilled water Klasse SG, use this immediately following (conventional) wash as a wipe on/wipe off. It serves as a rejuvenator and the application is very quick like a QD.
7. Klasse is an acrylic resin coating, it's not a petroleum silicate, or water-based product, and acrylic’s when they cross-link form a hard shell. Petroleum distillates will remove polymer sealants but not acrylic so a Carnauba wax can be applied to produce a deep ‘jetting’ (the so called ‘wet-look’)
8. An ideal last step product (LSP (http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/autolink.php?id=22&forumid=8&script=showthread)) for metallic paint is Pinnacle Signature Series Carnauba / Polymer wax

[Brian_Brice]

Its a toughj product for a new comer to use correctly. As others have said, less is more, and its fairly easy to apply/remove if you follow those guidelines.

[ScottB]

I dont suggest adding water to any sealant under application, as it needs to cure properly and this can be effected. I do however have a fool prove way to install SG by Klasse:

Transfer 1 ounce to a small travel size spray bottle.
Spritz each panel once or twice and immediately buff in.
Flip towel and immediately buff off. Allow 8-24 hours to cure.
If a stubborn spot comes into play, spritz spot and immediately buff till gone.

Works like a charm, and its a bulletproof combo. Add any detail sprays or waxes as toppers when wanted or even a second coat , just allow time for first coat to cure.

[HopetonBrown]

If it's too hard you're using too much. I do the same darn thing, use too much product in most cases. Don't know why I never use too little product?

Although I also think it's the case of the Emperor's Clothes; folks hear SG is hard to remove and guess what? It's gonna be hard to remove; whether it really is or not.

I use a 6.5" microfiber pads on a PC to remove. Piece of cake.

[Emile]

Klasse SG is easy to apply, terrible to remove.

I usually use the "24-hour method" with Sealant Glaze. After using Klasse AIO, I apply a nice coat of Klasse SG. After applying a coat to the entire vehicle, I let it sit for 24 hours, and then I go to the car (the next day) and buff it off with a microfiber towel and a spray bottle of water. i just spritz the area and then buff with the towel. Letting it sit for 24 hours allows the SG to have adequate cure time. So once I removed "yesterday's" coat, I can immediately go and apply another coat if I feel like applying multiple coats. After 2 or 3 coats, I stop applying because I can apply like 1 million coats but it still won't LOOK as good as one coat of a nice carnuba wax.


For those of you using WOWO method, how do you even know if SG properly bonds to the paint? I'd like to use WOWO for SG but I'm one of those guys who always uses way too much product even when I'm in "use-very-little-product" mode and I'd be worried about whether the SG has enough time to bond/dry to the paint with a thick coat.

[Brian_Brice]

Ksg should be as easy to remove as it is to apply.

If it isn't you most likely used too much. If you can clearly see its presence, you used to much. Try wiping down your glass after each panel to see if you are still applying product.

The cure time is not reference to how long you leave the initial applied product, but how long you leave it alone AFTER removing the initial application.

I would shy away from leaving any product stand on the paint for 24 hours due to the likelyhood that even in the cleanest of garages, many particles can naturally fall on your finish over night.

Make sure its very thin, and knock down high spots (any streaks you see are high spots) and use the product as directed to assure the maximum longevity.

[Wendell Jarvis]

You didn't have to take the lords name in vain!
:whs: The best post I have read today !!

[Emile]

The cure time is not reference to how long you leave the initial applied product, but how long you leave it alone AFTER removing the initial application.

I would shy away from leaving any product stand on the paint for 24 hours due to the likelyhood that even in the cleanest of garages, many particles can naturally fall on your finish over night.


Usually you're right, but Klasse themselves say that it only takes 30 minutes to an hour for the product to dry, and you can use the 24 hour method as the longer you let the product sit on the vehicle, the easier it is to remove.

[ScottB]

WOWO works best ...tried it all other ways. How can you tell ?? Look, feel and the six months of protection that KAIO cannot duplicate on its own.

[Brian_Brice]

Wowo is fine as well and easy, I don't think its any easier than letting it dry. I know many sealants claim the longer dry time translates into the larger percentage of sealed surface.

Example - Surf city garage sealant claims that with immediate removal you should expect 90-95% sealed. Whereas leaving it on for 24 hpurs produces 100% sealant properties.

Diluting ksg and applying it with a spray bottle transforms that product into werkstatts acrylic jett trigger. Very easy to use, and very little learning curve.

Matt I agree with you on durability, as I have used both jeffs and ksg that way with long lasting results. I just don't have a hard time removing it with dry time so no need for me personally.

I am still against ketting it sit all night based on the same reasons I've already stated, no matter what product remains on your finish over night it is just as vulnerable to collecting microscopic particles which will be dragged along your paint during removal, not to mention there's a good chane to accumulate embedded grain into the sealant itself.

I am aware of many techniques klasse has suggested in the past, as a company I would thin their goal would be to help many users with many different methods to suit everyones needs.

[SilentJ]

I dont suggest adding water to any sealant under application, as it needs to cure properly and this can be effected. I do however have a fool prove way to install SG by Klasse:

Transfer 1 ounce to a small travel size spray bottle.
Spritz each panel once or twice and immediately buff in.
Flip towel and immediately buff off. Allow 8-24 hours to cure.
If a stubborn spot comes into play, spritz spot and immediately buff till gone.

Works like a charm, and its a bulletproof combo. Add any detail sprays or waxes as toppers when wanted or even a second coat , just allow time for first coat to cure.

I've never used KSG, or KAIO for that matter, before. This wowo method seems to be the easiest I've heard so far.

Do you buff it in with a foam pad, towel, or MF? Do you wet this applicator/buffer with water or QD or leave it dry (I've heard all three suggested)?

Also, what is meant by cure time? Does this just refer to the wait period before another application with KSG or any other product? I assume that there would be no problem driving it during the cure time; am I correct?

Finally, you mention not to use water during application. An earlier post mentioned KSG 1:3 with water for use as a QD. Is your opinion that this is a bad idea?