polishing headlights

[02nissanISR]

Thanks for the feedback on the Klasse sealant w/headlights. Ok while we are on the subject, has anyone used a more aggressive method for polishing headlights? I currently use the dimondite kit and it works great but I have run into situations where its just not enough. (i.e. when someone uses an ice scraper on there plastic lenses causing severe scratches). Also i did a jeep cherokee yesterday and there seemed to be a film on the lens that did not allow me to buff it out clear. It was very splotchy some parts were clear others not so much and you could actually feel where it was raised kind of like when you pull off a sticker but don't get it all. if anyone has had these or similar experiences please help. thanks again

[GXPWeasel]

I have wet sanded headlamps before because of the amount and severity of pitting before. Then went ahead and used a plastic polish designed for headlamps. Worked very well for me on my Silverado headlamps, and fogs.

[christian900se]

You can use pretty much any finishing polish (I use Menzerna PO87mc with a CCS white and blue pad) and a PC, flex or any other buffer.

There are also a variety of products you can use by hand as well.

[Jimmie]

I have wet sanded headlamps before because of the amount and severity of pitting before. Then went ahead and used a plastic polish designed for headlamps. Worked very well for me on my Silverado headlamps, and fogs.

:iagree::whs:. Nothing to fear wet sanding plastic lenses. They will clear back out with most any polish. I use 2000 grit that you can get at most chain parts stores. If you are going to start more aggressive, say 1500 grit for example, then sand 1500 all one direction (horizontally), and then 2000 next all the other (vertically). This will help you see where you've sanded. Oh, you will need a buffer/drill if wet sanding.

[dublifecrisis]

Here is a passat I recently worked on and all I did to the headlights was M105 with a 4 inch orange pad and then 4 inch white pad with Poli-seal.

before:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb70/uchessor/IMG_5818.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb70/uchessor/IMG_5817.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb70/uchessor/IMG_5816.jpg

afta!
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb70/uchessor/IMG_5820.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb70/uchessor/IMG_5821.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb70/uchessor/IMG_5819.jpg

now there were some minor pits that I could still see but only looking really closely. These vdubb headlights are notorious for this premature fogging. I do have some wet sanding paper but I didn't break it out for this and I've never used any headlight "kits".

[Brian_Brice]

I've seen the need for extreme 800 grit sanding all the way up to 2500 to bring some lamps back, just depends how bad off they are.

[02nissanISR]

you guys are awesome great tips thanks

[Junebug]

I go with the 1500-2000 grit wet sanding and then Megs 84 on a 4" orange LC pad with a rotary/or drill if you don't have a rotary.

[02nissanISR]

does the drill work better than the random orbit i use a pc 7424

[02nissanISR]

when wet sanding do have to use a block as on paint or just the paper

[vinnier6]

when wet sanding do have to use a block as on paint or just the paper

instead of using a block of wood, try using a small dense sponge so you can get the contoured parts of the headlight and keep full contact....otherwise use you hands....

[heatgain]

does the drill work better than the random orbit i use a pc 7424
I use both, depending on whether I have electric available. If there is electric available, I reach for the PC every time. Just remember you're working on plastic, so keep moving to keep heat down.


when wet sanding do have to use a block as on paint or just the paper
A block makes your strokes more uniform, but the shape of headlight lenses usually preclude use of a block. Just your hand with the paper should be fine on lenses.

Remember to always protect the surrounding paint.