PDA

View Full Version : Is this plan for my first buffing try sound?


redtail
10-12-2008, 12:04 PM
Hello,
I'm about to place an order for a new G110 buffer, but I want to check with the pros first and make sure the polishes I'm going to get will work for what I want them to do.

I will mainly be working the paint on 2 cars, a 1969 Porsche 912, repainted Irish Green in 2000, now showing lots of wear, swirlmarks, and some buffer trails.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b197/zminick/IMG_4919-1.jpg

Car two is a 1965 MGB repainted black in 2006, paint is basically still sound, though it is showing some swirlmarks and some buffer trails from a less-than-pro detail I got.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b197/zminick/IMG_4918-1.jpg

Neither of the cars have a clear coat, and the paint seems to be pretty soft on both. So my plan is to start with a wash and clay, then the D105 on an orange light cutting pad, then the D151 also on a light cutting pad, followed by the M80 on the foam polishing pad, then M221 on the Finishing pad.

Is it smart to use the M221 on paint that doesn't have a clear coat, or should I go with NXT? Can NXT be layered over M221?

This is the equipment I plan to order, please let me know if you think there is something I should omit, or something I should add.

1 Meguiar's G110 Polisher
1 W67DA Velcro Backing Plate
2 W7006 Foam Cutting Pad
2 W8006 Foam Polishing Pad
2 W9006 Foam Finishing Pad
1 C2000 Light Blue Mild Clay Bar
1 D10532 Ultra-Cut Compound
1 D15532 Last Touch Detailer Spray 32 oz. Concentrate
1 D15132 Paint Reconditioning Cream 32 oz.
1 M8032 Speed Glaze 32 oz.
1 M2116 Synthetic Paint Sealant 16 oz.
3 16 x 16 Microfiber Towels
2 Ultimate DA Microfiber Bonnets

Thanks!
redtail
10-13-2008, 10:43 AM
Anyone have any advice about how to refresh non-clear-coat paint?

Thanks
GeorgiaHybrid
10-13-2008, 11:35 AM
If your paint is real soft, I doubt that you will need 105 and a cutting pad. For soft paint, try your mildest polish with a finish pad and then start working up until you find a combination that works. Don't be afraid to try a mild polish with a cutting pad or a more aggressive polish with a finishing pad.

Some times you never know which combination will work the best.
Dwayne
10-13-2008, 01:56 PM
If your paint is real soft, I doubt that you will need 105 and a cutting pad. For soft paint, try your mildest polish with a finish pad and then start working up until you find a combination that works. Don't be afraid to try a mild polish with a cutting pad or a more aggressive polish with a finishing pad.

Some times you never know which combination will work the best.

I agree. It's always best to start with the least aggressive approach first and only go as aggressive as necessary to remove the defects.

The Meguiar's 21 label says it's safe for all paint finishes.
redtail
10-13-2008, 02:11 PM
Thanks for the replies guys, it's really helpful information.

I'm thinking I'll probably get a bottle of #2 Fine Cut Cleaner, just incase I need it, but start on the paint with #80 on a light cut pad, followed by #7 with a polishing pad, and finally #21 with a finishing pad.

Should I layer NXT or a carnuba over the sealant or is that unnecessary?

Obviously I'm new to this, so I'm looking foreward to a bit of experimentation and a lot of fun!

And just quickly, a Flex would probably be overkill for what I need right?
GeorgiaHybrid
10-13-2008, 03:06 PM
You could put a good carnauba over the sealant as it will "warm up" the look. IMO, I would not put NXT over my sealant but that's just me... I like a nice carnauba....
supercharged
10-13-2008, 10:09 PM
Forget about G110, especially if it's from Meguiar's who will rip you off almost twice as much as PC actually costs, and get a FLEX DA! You won't regret it, it's very powerful and will help you take care of those swirls quick!!!:righton:
killrflake
10-13-2008, 10:42 PM
I think the Flex 3401 is the way to go over the G110 also. Don't forget to show us your results.
Matt S.
10-14-2008, 10:43 AM
G110 is more powerful than the PC, but not as reliable IMO. The Flex 3401 kicks everything else's ass in its class. :cheers:
Wendell Jarvis
10-14-2008, 10:49 AM
You could put a good carnauba over the sealant as it will "warm up" the look. IMO, I would not put NXT over my sealant but that's just me... I like a nice carnauba....
I agree also, NXT is fine ( especially light color cars) but I would not topp it off on a sealant, especially if its WG-DGPS, that deserves a good layer of Pinnacle Liquid Soveran -now your cooking!!!
redtail
10-14-2008, 12:42 PM
Thanks for all the advice guys, this is turning out to be a much more difficult decision than I had anticipated.

While I am quite sure the Flex is a much better tool than the G110, at this point I don't think I can really justify the extra $125 for it. This is my reasoning: I will only be working on my personal cars, so quick results and a fast work time are not really issues. Further, my current vehicles (and most likely my future ones as well) are all old with softer single-stage paints. I will most likely never work on a car with a modern, hard clear coat finish, so I may not (hopefully) ever need the extra power of the Flex. As to reliability issues, I have read that the PC, G110, and the Flex all can have problems from time to time. Lastly, money is a bit tight at the moment (as I'm sure it is for many people on this forum!) and I figure if I ever need extra power I can pick up a rotary sometime in the future and use the DA for LSP, which I hear it is better suited to than the flex.

Thanks very much for the help guys, and I'll be sure to post pics of my progress whenever I get the anticipated big package in the mail!

The (soon to be shiny) fleet:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b197/zminick/IMG_4940.jpg