Learning to use a rotary??

[pricha00]

I just acquired a Makita 9227C and currently have the included wool pads, long and short, and a Megs W8008 foam pad as well. Working exclusively with OP compound and polish at this point because thats all I have that really is designed for rotary use. I am encountering a lot of sticking and chattering with the wool cutting pad, as early as the third section of polishing. What do I need to learn to lessen this problem? Do I need more water on the wool or more product? The middlle of the pad looks really matted down with product and my only recourse to eliminate the problem at this point is to wash the wool pad and continue. Not very condusive to getting the job done quickly. Having better luck with the foam pad but I am wondering if there is a better finishing combo out there. I mean the finish looks good but I wouldn't say eye popping smooth. Perhaps a even finer foam pad and a real fine polish would improve the finish even further. What are you guys using out there for the final polish? I am dealing with daily drivers, friends and family, and my own but I would like to learn to get really good. Perhaps then I could do it on the side for some extra funds.

[ScottB]

how about the light purple wool pad ?? Hopefully someone will chime in as I am still playing with the Flex lately. Just remember keep 'er flat and speed relatively low when using rotary.

[pricha00]

See now you say keep the pad flat but even the Makita directions say to keep a 10 degree angle on the pad when polishing. I do keep the foam pad flat however.

Pat.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

The wool pad levels the paint better than foam and sets a fresh surface to start with. You do not wet the wool down to use. The pad needs to be spurred during use often, either with a pad spur or you can use a flat head screw driver. Yes tilt the wool pad slightly when used, faom pads you leave flat. After a wool pad I would use a mild polish(sip) and then a finish polish with a finishing faom pad. There is no quick way of doing this if you want to do it correctly, 2-3 steps after using wool are needed. Doing it this way will give you the best results when finished. For an example look at Rydawg's show and shine on the Ford GT, to see what it takes to get a beautiful finish.

[TOGWT]

See - Rotary Usage Tips - ############# (http://#############.com/index.php5?title=Rotary_Usage_Tips)

[scottgt]

make sure your not using to much polish...one of the biggest mistakes...

here is my video...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-forum/14856-rotary-video-scott-s-mobile-detailing.html

[pricha00]

Thanks for the tips guys. I will watch the videos and use trial and error to improve my work. I don't mind two to three steps after compounding if it gives me the look that I want.

Pat.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Thanks for the tips guys. I will watch the videos and use trial and error to improve my work. I don't mind two to three steps after compounding if it gives me the look that I want.

Pat.

Glad to hear, and it will give you the results you want.

[img]

Spend the $ on a random orbital--free isn't always the best.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Spend the $ on a random orbital--free isn't always the best.

Why, a rotary does so much more, that makes no sense.

[pricha00]

I have a UDM, looks like a little toy compared to my Makita. Correction is possible I know but it takes forever compared to the rotary. Once I have a good collection of backing plates and pads I can't see my using the UDM except for perhaps some really easy work like glaze application or wax removal.

Pat.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

I have a UDM, looks like a little toy compared to my Makita. Correction is possible I know but it takes forever compared to the rotary. Once I have a good collection of backing plates and pads I can't see my using the UDM except for perhaps some really easy work like glaze application or wax removal.

Pat.

Exactly, I learned on a rotary many, many years ago. I only use my pc for paint cleaner and thats it.