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pricha00
06-20-2008, 08:01 PM
A friend has a race car that was painted by a hot rod painter who uses House of Kolor products exclusively. Paint is five years old or so and was polished when first shot but only washed using a QD ever since. The car is either in a trailer or a garage 99% of the time anyways so washing is kind of useless and drag cars aren't exactly sealed against water anyways. I was attempting to remove some moderate scratches on the fenders from leaning over the car to do engine maintenance. I started with XMT 3 on a orange cutting pad at speed 6 on a UDM. No luck. It seemed to get some real fine blemishes out but no improvement on the major issues. Then I got gutsy and tried Optimum compound on a yellow cutting pad using the same technique but still similar results. I would be scared to try that combo on my 06 Toyota but the owner said give it a shot so I did. Better but not as nice as I would like. My question is what is the most aggressive polish I should try on this clear? The painter took like a whole day with a rotary to polish it five years ago and even he commented on the hardness of the CC. Should I be investing in some Menzerna product? Is there really a huge difference between the Intensive Polish and the Super Intensive Polish?

Pat.

bryansbestwax
06-20-2008, 09:13 PM
SIP is made for ceramic clear coats and other hard clear surfaces. It can be used for all but maybe a little on the agressive side for average paint. Nano is the finishing polish for hard clear coats, a must for darker paints

AjNavo61490
06-20-2008, 09:43 PM
I've seen lots of good results with Optimum Compound.

pampos
06-21-2008, 01:12 AM
Menzerna RD3.02 works OK for me....

TOGWT
06-21-2008, 03:24 AM
a)The use of a duel level foam pad (primary / secondary) / single polish correction system; will change the way each polish works in accordance to which pad you use (i.e. use a polishing pad followed by a finishing pad) and will really heighten the paint finish shine.

b) For most paint correction use *PO 106 FA / 106 FF a Lake County (LC) White or Orange and PO 85 D3.01 polish with a (LC) Blue foam pad at 1000 RPM should be all you need.

c) For paint renovation use PO S34A Power Gloss (LC Purple wool pad 1500 – 1800 RPM).
It has a short work time slow cut and tends to ‘dust’


Always be aware of the implications (paint removal) of using highly abrasive compounds as they can remove a significant amount of paint.

USA Part numbersEuropean Part numbers
PO83Q (*Super Intensive Polish) PO85RD3.01 /2 (Europe version)
PO91E (*Intensive Polish) PO85RD3.02 (best overall lustre wetness, clarity and gloss)
PO85U (Final Polish)

Notes –
a)*Finishing polishes were formulated for Ceramiclear paints, the micro diminishing abrasives are milled finer and much harder, and also contain a higher abrasive content, 7% whereas the other polishes contain 3% abrasives.

Alternatve polishes - 3M™ Perfect-It™ 3000 Extra Cut Rubbing Compound, 06060
3M™ Perfect-It™ 3000 Ultrafina™ SE (US) 06068 / Ultrafina SE (UK) 50383Use the ‘Slow Hand’ method for application;White polishing (softer less dense foam (70 PPI) with a light abrasive cutting action) followed by a Blue or Black Final finishing (100 PPI) LC CCS foam pad at 1100 RPM

ScottB
06-21-2008, 07:15 AM
SIP came to my mind also ... aggressive at first but breaks down quite quickly.