how to use System one?

[agazmi]

Hi, i just purchased a Harbor freight rotary, a 6inch system one dual pad, the adapter and the X3 polish. I need instructions on how to use this stuff (like detailed step by step). i tried using it except i would sling soo much product every where and the dust from a 2X2 ft area would cover the whole hood of my car, but thats not the problem, the problem is i still see scratches? does this stuff work or am i using it wrong? i would appreciate anyone with experience with this product to post a detailed guide on how to use it (how much product, how to spread it, techniques ect...)

Thanks in advance
Andrew

[Totoland Mach]

Hi, i just purchased a Harbor freight rotary, a 6inch system one dual pad, the adapter and the X3 polish. I need instructions on how to use this stuff (like detailed step by step). i tried using it except i would sling soo much product every where and the dust from a 2X2 ft area would cover the whole hood of my car, but thats not the problem, the problem is i still see scratches? does this stuff work or am i using it wrong? i would appreciate anyone with experience with this product to post a detailed guide on how to use it (how much product, how to spread it, techniques ect...)

Thanks in advance
Andrew

Andrew: I'll post a list of techniques later tonight. I've got to get to work right now, so if anyone else wants to chime in...do so.

Toto

[id-type-s]

Just want I've been waiting for!!



SWEET!

[NickP]

Looking forward to your post :)

[nrengle]

I just used the old formula of System One with three LC CCS pads. Used the Yellow, White, and Black (orange fell apart on me for some reason!). Works really well.

[Totoland Mach]

Okay: System One stuff I've learned.

1. Product sling. I use both the 8" pads and the 6" pads and find that if I "prime" the wool before I start with some product (couple of beads and hand rub it into the wool) really helps. Then, when I put a bead on the car's surface, I don't use much. I also pre-spread the product on the panel by smearing it around the work area. My rotary has a variable speed trigger and that helps...don't know if the Harbor Freight has one or not.

Next, I keep the rotary speed around 1,000 - 1,200 rpm and work the pad off center just a little. Nothing severe on the angle, but just raise the one edge a little. I'm a southpaw so I raise the left side of the pad.

Next, work the product until it's clear on the panel. This allows you to see if the scratches or swirls are gone. If not, apply more product and repeat. I had a couple of stubborn scratches on the latest BMW and probably worked those 3-4 times before I removed them.

Now, if you are not making progress with wool, you might want to switch to an aggressive foam instead. A couple of areas on the BMW worked better with the 3M cutting foam pad than the wool, so I used it. Generally, the wool is easier on the paint heat-wise, but sometimes you need the extra uumph.

If you have compressed air available, you can use that to blow away the dust. I've also taken an old California Duster and gently swiped away the dust. I do this to check my work.

Pressure on the rotary: boy, if someone could invent a rotary with a lbs/sq ft pressure gauge it would solve a lot. One of my own problems is I tend to be on the safe side and not use too much pressure. It causes me to work longer to achieve results, but I don't want to burn any paint. The BMW dealer uses a lot of pressure, but he's been using a rotary for 25+ years and knows how much heat a Bimmer's paint can take.

So: take time to work the product until clear, keep the rpm on the low side, check your work before you move to the next area. And finally, clean your pad with a spur often.

Let me know how you progress.

Here's the latest BMW monster I just completed with System One.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/13821-most-expensive-bmw-i-ve-done-760li-black-metal.html#post185906

Toto

[agazmi]

Thanks to all, especially toto. infact your posts about system one are the reason i decided to try it out! i will try it out again on Sunday, and i will report back. By the way the car im doing is a 1990 Mercedes 300E, so the clear is a bit hard.

[agazmi]

ok guys i did half of the trunk today here is my process: i washed my pad, then spritzed it with water added 3 pea sized spots of product on the wool side and rubbed it in. i then put a quarter inch by 3 inch line of product on the paint then rubbed it in with the pad then put the speed of the buffer on min (about 300 rpm). i spread the product all over the half of the trunk then i kicked the speed up to 800 rpm then 1200 rpm worked it until clear(raising the machine at a small angle helps alot with control! thanks toto) , repeated the last step once more then repeated again with the white foam to remove micro marring/buffer trail. Overall i was impressed because it took out all of the swirl marks in the paint but i still have a few RDS which im sure can be removed if i sand them out but i dont want to risk needing a repaint so 75% correction will do for the time being!. i would add pics but my camera is dead so ill do a Show and shine on my black jeep liberty later this week (full of swirl marks). Again all your help is appreciated!

[Totoland Mach]

Sounds like you're gaining on the process Agazmi. Don't feel bad about finding a few leftover light scratches. You can wet sand with 2500 grit and re-apply System One to remove. Or, as in the case of the BMW I just did, I found a few stray light scratches on the rear quarter this afternoon following a wax (where they can show up due to the gloss). So, I took a 3M compound pad and some Meguiar's #83 and quickly removed them. No dust to worry about. Followed that with a quick glaze and Ultrafina. Took about 5 minutes.

Toto