Rotary buffer experience...

[Z06-Goose]

I'm sorry no pics on this one

This is more about my first full detail experience ever with a Makita 9227 Rotary

I was called in from a local shop to detail a Dodge pick up truck that was painted over a month ago. This truck had numerous wool pad swirls my PC 7424 with Menzerna and a Meguiars Cutting pad wouldn't touch!

I went over another shop where I borrow my friens Makita 9227 and a 3M foam black pad. I bought some 3M 6064 Swirl Remover and a Bottle of 3M Ultrafina and its blue pad
Being a little nervous I decided to give it a go. I did real well considering my new experience and judging by the results I've obtained.
The swirls were gone, and the very fine swirls that left (very fine!) were taking care of with the 3m Ultrafina

I did this truck in a two-day span, I started late Friday, and was only able to finish the 3M 6064 step only. Next day (today) I went to the owners house (the shop was going to be closed today, so he took it home) and he had the truck parked on the driveway. Though I was using a Sears Halogen 500watts light tripod while at the shop, I was still worried I'll be seeing holograms under natural sunlight. To my surprise, there was only a little bit on the upper side of the bedliner. I didn't want to get the pad too close to the line-x seam. I proceeded with the Ultrafina, and came out ~95% free of swilrs. I figure with more practice, I can do better. The remaining 5% swirls were only visible at certain angle, and difficult to see unless you know how to look for them
It was a Dodge 2500 dual cab (4-door) big sucker! :cheers:

I'm very encouraged by this experience
On my first ever limited try with a rotary, I had few holograms. I believe I was using a wool pad at that time, but with the foam black pads, it was night and day, not to mention I finished in less time

The Makita was a little bit hard to manage at first, but I did notice it became more manageable using the Ultrafina and the blue pad. I got used to the weight of the machine, but wouldn't mind trying a lighter one

I've been planning on getting the Flex DA but now I don't know if the Flex DA would take defects as fast, as a rotary and still be able to use the 3M 6064 and the 3M Ultrafina. Menzerna is what I use with my PC, but haven't tried that with a rotary...

So flex, or rotary is now the question? :D
I'd like a machine that I can use 6.5" pads, and 3.5" BP for 4" spot pads with

I appreciate all the input, as I want to make a sound decision as to what way I should go

Cheers!

[ScottB]

I think the Flex is a logical upgrade to PC/UDM users prior to moving to rotary. I think once youve mastered the rotary or are in a professional setting, likely the rotary is your choice for speed.

I do however admit I like my Flex more than my rotary, but using on well kept cars.

[Z06-Goose]

I think the Flex is a logical upgrade to PC/UDM users prior to moving to rotary. I think once youve mastered the rotary or are in a professional setting, likely the rotary is your choice for speed.

I do however admit I like my Flex more than my rotary, but using on well kept cars.Thanks Scott. For what I've been reading, the adapter for the Flex is already in the works. I'm still weighing my options
I'll have the Makita for the weekend, so I'll give it a try on my vette today :cheers:

[ScottB]

the Flex/Edge adapter is available directly from Edge already. Because they machine it into the backing plate, the cost is high and wont likely see at AG soon.

[dave_from_here]

I used to detail professionally and always used a rotary so I don’t know what kind of results u can get with a PC. But a rotary is, I think, the way to go because you need to generate some heat for some products to work.

[D]

Rotary for sure.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

The rotary is the way to go. For proper paint correction you need a rotary.

[Z06-Goose]

Yeah, I agree. I've done some pretty nice work with my PC, but the rotary is way faster
I've tried it again today on my vette. The learning curve has had its up and downs. I was able to stick with the speed set at 1800rpm and that worked good for me. I plan on gradually increasing the speed a little as I get more comfortable with it :cheers:

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Why do you have the buffer at such a high rpm, there really is no need for that. You only need to go that high on a really difficult area, I have rarely gone that high in over 20 years of doing this.

[blacknblu]

Ok, I'm not a professional (nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express), but he are my 2 cents. If you are going to be doing extensive corrective work on a regular basis, then I would go with a rotary. However, if the majority of your work will be minor to medium, I would highly recommend the Flex. I picked up a Flex (and other than the sticker shock) have been completely happy with my decision.

Now, the Flex more than meets my needs, but it wouldn't be my first weapon of choice if I consistently needed to tackle rough/tough jobs. Considering that you already have a PC, if I were you, I'd probably go with a rotary.

[Z06-Goose]

Why do you have the buffer at such a high rpm, there really is no need for that. You only need to go that high on a really difficult area, I have rarely gone that high in over 20 years of doing this.LOL!!! I thought it was working at too low of a speed :o
I'm a noob at this. I was working with a black foam pad with 3M 6064 Swirl Remover
I'm yet to try any other compound nad different pads combo
I have some PO85RD3.02 (original formula) that I will try next time; I know it has a longer working time, and I guess it would be wise to work it at lower speed ??
Thanks for your help. I've started to understand rotary a little better... :cheers:

[Bridges]

I used menzerna and cross grove pads yesterday with my makita rotary on a 2005 gmc truck. I was very amazed how well the paint correction came out and in such short time! I was also impressed I didn't have any buffer swirls. In the past the only time I used the buffer was with a wool pad and heavy duty compound which always left some swirling.

The day before I used my new flex da on a 08 black cts. I spent over 10 hours on it where the truck only took about 4 hours with the rotary. If it takes that much less why isn't every one using a rotary?

If you are looking to get a rotary or a da for that matter I would get a flex. Flex with some menzerna is an awesome tool!

[blacknblu]

Please point out to me posted experiences by people that do have Flex and have tried to correct something and could not do it and had to reach for rotary.

ZoranC – You bring up a very good point. I’ll put a disclaimer on my statements indicating that I’m as new as the day is long, but I’ve recently had an experience where I was unable to remove a few defects using the flex (see the thread - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-forum/13566-looking-right-combo-products.html). I chalked it up to using the wrong products for the job, and am in the process of correcting my thinking errors (darn newbie).

I may have been able to correct the defects with the flex (and the combination of product I was using) had I spent more time. Nevertheless, if I was a professional, and time was a factor, I would probably go with a rotary. Now let’s all be thankful that I’m not a professional, as with my skill level, I’d probably be sued out of existence.

[Junebug]

I think if you have some 1Z Intensive Polish and PFW pads and a Makita - keep the rpm's to 1000 and you'll be a rotary convert. Words to the wise - RESPECT the machine - always! and ALWAYS tape up trim and edges, it will save time and that big "oh f....!" later. I sometimes have to pull out the Megs 95 and solo wool pads, but, it's only on hard clears like Audi. You can finish with FFII or Megs 80 on 900-1000 rpm and as long as you don't use too much and break the polish down, you'll be fine.

[style]

Yeah, I agree. I've done some pretty nice work with my PC, but the rotary is way faster
I've tried it again today on my vette. The learning curve has had its up and downs. I was able to stick with the speed set at 1800rpm and that worked good for me. I plan on gradually increasing the speed a little as I get more comfortable with it :cheers:

SWIRL MARKS ARE CREATED BY HEAT..

just remember it doesnt matter what foam pad you use to remove swirls marks, as they are caused by heat the lowest settings like 1000rpm is fine for removing swirls and applying waxes...

1000rpm keeps the heat down and the swirls gone at that point your not cutting your polishing..