Iron remover

[capnp72]

Is it worth the expense and time to use an iron remover on an older vehicle? I have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited with 97k miles.

[briarpatch]

Is it worth the expense and time to use an iron remover on an older vehicle? I have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited with 97k miles.

I do not see a reason why not. I have a 2013 Tundra with 121k.....when it gets a full detail, its gets clayed and sprayed with Iron-X.

[Rsurfer]

Is it worth the expense and time to use an iron remover on an older vehicle? I have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited with 97k miles.
It depends, are you planning to do a full detail? Detailers have been polishing cars for over half a century and there wasn't iron removers back then, but there was rail dust and brake dust. Does that mean they did an incomplete job?

[Eldorado2k]

IMO the short answer is no, not needed as long as you plan on clay barring the vehicle. The clay will do everything an iron remover will do and more.

This makes me think, back when products i.e. Iron X 1st came to market, was it mainly described for use on wheels? Or was it marketed for use on paint? I’ve got a hunch it had to be 1 before the other, and if it was wheels than that would explain alot, because most people never get around to claying their wheels, which in turn sort of makes using Iron X to clean your wheels a pretty good idea since how else would you go about removing iron particles and therefore preventing premature deterioration of the clearcoat on your wheels…

I believe acid based wheel cleaners also help remove iron particles, but alot of people are scared to death to use them, so that wouldn’t work for them.

My gut tells me that could’ve been the whole reason they decided to make Iron X in the 1st place. What do you guys think?

[Bill D]

I used the Valugard ABC system on a contaminated car before claying—if claying was even necessary ( you can also clay during step B) it’s my understanding this system was the original., even before Iron X,but it remains unpopular because it’s a 3 step system, was never marketed to mainstream detailers, and isn’t straight forward to obtain. I think Valugard is missing the boat by not marketing this system to professional detainers and enthusiasts

Any way, here’s how the system works:

How To Remove Industrial Fallout and Rail Dust / Valugard A-B-C Neutralization Procedure - YouTube (https://youtu.be/GgEfQZ5MqJM)

[Coatingsarecrack]

If you plan to keep the vehicle for a long while I would personally use Iron remover. Did want hurt and doesn’t mar.

If your plan on claying I would still use. I’m in the camp the clay would remove all the iron and iron remover would but I want least amount of particles dragged across my paint. Less micro marring and longer clear coat preservation.

I’m sure clay would remove dirt from paint but that would scratch paint right? I think of it as kinda the same.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[opie]

I’m sure clay would remove dirt from paint but that would scratch paint right? I think of it as kinda the same.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like your analogy[emoji1303]

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[opie]

IMO the short answer is no, not needed as long as you plan on clay barring the vehicle. The clay will do everything an iron remover will do and more.

This makes me think, back when products i.e. Iron X 1st came to market, was it mainly described for use on wheels? Or was it marketed for use on paint? I’ve got a hunch it had to be 1 before the other, and if it was wheels than that would explain alot, because most people never get around to claying their wheels, which in turn sort of makes using Iron X to clean your wheels a pretty good idea since how else would you go about removing iron particles and therefore preventing premature deterioration of the clearcoat on your wheels…

I believe acid based wheel cleaners also help remove iron particles, but alot of people are scared to death to use them, so that wouldn’t work for them.

My gut tells me that could’ve been the whole reason they decided to make Iron X in the 1st place. What do you guys think?I think you make a good point. Look at 3d's iron remover for instance...BDX, i always have seen it more marketed for the wheels

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[capnp72]

It depends, are you planning to do a full detail? Detailers have been polishing cars for over half a century and there wasn't iron removers back then, but there was rail dust and brake dust. Does that mean they did an incomplete job?

Yes, I am planning on doing a full detail.

[tattooman]

I clay bared a 21 year old garage kept camry today that had never been detailed its entire life. the paint looked good after washing it, but when I began the clar bar cleanup, the paint was so rough with fallout that I was worried about the clay bar operation scratching the paint futher because of the heavy amount of fallout that the clay was dragging out. Anyway I stopped after the roof and back lid, and ordered some iron remover, since the fallout wasn't coming off easily with the clay - meaning there was lots of trash and it had been stuck in the paint a very very long time. So from this experience, I say for really heavily contaminated paint, I say use an iron remover FIRST, so that the subsequent clay bar procedure will be more productive with less damage during the operation. I suppose if I had a more coarse grade of clay it might have worked better, since a little marring I think is better than whatever amount of scratching created by the clay bar cleaning itself.

[Eldorado2k]

I clay bared a 21 year old garage kept camry today that had never been detailed its entire life. the paint looked good after washing it, but when I began the clar bar cleanup, the paint was so rough with fallout that I was worried about the clay bar operation scratching the paint futher because of the heavy amount of fallout that the clay was dragging out. Anyway I stopped after the roof and back lid, and ordered some iron remover, since the fallout wasn't coming off easily with the clay - meaning there was lots of trash and it had been stuck in the paint a very very long time. So from this experience, I say for really heavily contaminated paint, I say use an iron remover FIRST, so that the subsequent clay bar procedure will be more productive with less damage during the operation. I suppose if I had a more coarse grade of clay it might have worked better, since a little marring I think is better than whatever amount of scratching created by the clay bar cleaning itself.

This outta be a good test subject to provide some real world feedback on. Please give us an update on your experience after using the iron remover in regards to how much of a difference it made on the subsequent claying experience.

If possible leave a small section of the hood [which I would assume is the only horizontal panel left that’s currently untouched and still fully contaminated] for only the claybar to decontaminate vs. another section that gets iron remover + claybar so you can see if there’s a noticeable difference. Thx.

Btw which claybar are you using?

[DanaDetailingPros]

I decided to finally take the Iron vs. Clay challenge today.
I had the perfect test dummy. My wife’s overly neglected 2020 C300
I didn’t really feel like pouring too much effort in washing the entire car so, I sprayed her down with a thick coat of fan favorite Bilt Hamber Touchless.
Before I get into all the Nitty gritty Literally! I want to mention I did video document this full hour and a half process. I still will need to edit it down to 1 minute MAX!
First off this car was in horrific shape for a newer 2020 Benz. Luckily the paint is super thick and forgiving.
After I dried her up, I laid the tape down the middle. Then, I sprayed Adam’s Iron remover across the left side. While it was setting up I started claying the right side with N914 and a flood of it!
It felt like 100 grit sandpaper and had me a bit skeptical if I was ever going to remove the marring. Otherwise I was going to really get my A$$ handed to me!
Now the Adam’s side. it was still gritty but instead of the grabbing the grit and sliding it across the paint it felt as if it was soon collected in the clay as if it was melting away! Sooo much nicer and without that nails across a chaulk board feeling.
I finally felt I removed most of the contaminates but still wondered if I left some on the clay only side. It just never seemed to be baby smooth like I like.
I would soon find out why no one dare attempts a 50/50 doing this scenario.
It left me with a huge difference and a line quite visible separating the two sides.
I panicked thinking what my wife would say if she walked out. Or worse, if I didn’t clean it up!
So now back to the drawing board to remove my very visible science experiment!
Luckily the Iron remover along with another good clay job on both sides was soon to be my redemption. Along with a fist full of compounds and pads.
Started soft with LC HDO CSS Orange and Sonax Ultimate cut.
It really worked well to match the two sides while really taking the brunt of this hood’s dirty diaper.
But I still needed to up the game.
I decided to use my liquid buck shot! The Last cut+ by the Last Detail.
This stuff has really been my go-to on worst of the worst jobs and has been out performing ACA500, Sonax Ultimate Cut, Carpro Ultracut and Jescar Maximum cut.
This time I went with a Blue HDO CSS.
It was now giving my Lincoln’s paint a run for its money and to be quite frank, it cleaned up 97% of every last line. Something that has yet to be the case with my car. Maybe it’s just me being too careful instead of like it’s a test dummy lol
Lastly just followed up with Carpro gloss pad and Essence.
Game over!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/f612bea503d214dd9fde7d8d15f7ec48.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/9ce8c5212c541948ea3a5386812a6a50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/429fb29ebf2a0b459fffd803fceef1f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/0a119f338e9d0da164970c2196ea27f7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)

[Coatingsarecrack]

I decided to finally take the Iron vs. Clay challenge today.
I had the perfect test dummy. My wife’s overly neglected 2020 C300
I didn’t really feel like pouring too much effort in washing the entire car so, I sprayed her down with a thick coat of fan favorite Bilt Hamber Touchless.
Before I get into all the Nitty gritty Literally! I want to mention I did video document this full hour and a half process. I still will need to edit it down to 1 minute MAX!
First off this car was in horrific shape for a newer 2020 Benz. Luckily the paint is super thick and forgiving.
After I dried her up, I laid the tape down the middle. Then, I sprayed Adam’s Iron remover across the left side. While it was setting up I started claying the right side with N914 and a flood of it!
It felt like 100 grit sandpaper and had me a bit skeptical if I was ever going to remove the marring. Otherwise I was going to really get my A$$ handed to me!
Now the Adam’s side. it was still gritty but instead of the grabbing the grit and sliding it across the paint it felt as if it was soon collected in the clay as if it was melting away! Sooo much nicer and without that nails across a chaulk board feeling.
I finally felt I removed most of the contaminates but still wondered if I left some on the clay only side. It just never seemed to be baby smooth like I like.
I would soon find out why no one dare attempts a 50/50 doing this scenario.
It left me with a huge difference and a line quite visible separating the two sides.
I panicked thinking what my wife would say if she walked out. Or worse, if I didn’t clean it up!
So now back to the drawing board to remove my very visible science experiment!
Luckily the Iron remover along with another good clay job on both sides was soon to be my redemption. Along with a fist full of compounds and pads.
Started soft with LC HDO CSS Orange and Sonax Ultimate cut.
It really worked well to match the two sides while really taking the brunt of this hood’s dirty diaper.
But I still needed to up the game.
I decided to use my liquid buck shot! The Last cut+ by the Last Detail.
This stuff has really been my go-to on worst of the worst jobs and has been out performing ACA500, Sonax Ultimate Cut, Carpro Ultracut and Jescar Maximum cut.
This time I went with a Blue HDO CSS.
It was now giving my Lincoln’s paint a run for its money and to be quite frank, it cleaned up 97% of every last line. Something that has yet to be the case with my car. Maybe it’s just me being too careful instead of like it’s a test dummy lol
Lastly just followed up with Carpro gloss pad and Essence.
Game over!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/f612bea503d214dd9fde7d8d15f7ec48.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/9ce8c5212c541948ea3a5386812a6a50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/429fb29ebf2a0b459fffd803fceef1f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/0a119f338e9d0da164970c2196ea27f7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)

If we see the car in that shape again we might have to punch your geek card! [emoji1787]

I kid. My friends ask me why don’t I do this to s as a sidel gig and I state cuz I would then never touch my cars.

Like the test. Do you think iron remover made a noticeable difference?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DanaDetailingPros]

I do not see a reason why not. I have a 2013 Tundra with 121k.....when it gets a full detail, its gets clayed and sprayed with Iron-X.


It depends, are you planning to do a full detail? Detailers have been polishing cars for over half a century and there wasn't iron removers back then, but there was rail dust and brake dust. Does that mean they did an incomplete job?
Yup her car is pretty bad. I gave up a long time a ago.
It was so noticeable. That line difference staring me straight in the face, I basically panicked. As if I screwed up her car.
I quickly started over with the iron remover over both sides and clayed again the entire right side.

[Eldorado2k]

I decided to finally take the Iron vs. Clay challenge today.[/url]

- It’s never a good idea to put the least amount of effort into the wash process before claying
- it would’ve been nice to see the amount of color change from the iron remover in these pics
- it would’ve been nice to see the contaminants on the claybar [especially considering the claybar you were using was white]
- It would’ve been nice to see the marring you said took place.
- it would’ve been nice to see up close 50/50 shots to see the difference prior to polishing.