I'm DUMBFOUNDED! A FLEX 3401 vs. Rupes LH19 Rotary.

[DanaDetailingPros]

If you already have the Cutmax, you can skip the Menzerna 400. I liked the sonax Ultimate Cut and Cut & Finish more than I liked the Menzerna.

The 400 has a very strong solvent that gives me a really bad headache. That is the main reason I tend to use 3D and Optimum polishes and compounds.

The 3D ONE covers so many bases for me though. I find it fun to use. Makes me look forward to going to work!

Out of 3D ACA 500 or 510/Sonax Ultimate Cut 6 Plus and Cuttmax and anything you would recommend-grab for the worst correction job your faced with what would you prefer Dic?

[DanaDetailingPros]

Prices won't be going down anytime soon. I would order the gallon if you can swing it. Justify by telling yourself your hedging against inflation

I really scored! $125 for a gallon and no tax. $14 shipping but got a few thing no one else had and they did.CDS

[dlc95]

He should get you a bottle! Your not in the charity business at work:)

Well, I'm probably shifting to an independent contractor. I need to find a way out of having to apply those ceramic coatings. Every time I do a car with them it's a complete disaster. Plus, I can charge a little more and have time to tend to much business at home.

[DanaDetailingPros]

Out of 3D ACA 500 or 510/Sonax Ultimate Cut 6 Plus and Cutmax and anything you would recommend-grab for the worst correction job your faced with what would you prefer Dic?
A 510 since I'm down on that and also grabbed a 32 oz of the Ultimate Cut 6. I also found a detail Body Shop supplier on the other side of the coast and I noticed from there narrowed selection and mostly only available in gallons that they stock the most favorable lines. They had 3D One and Speed only and carried 3M Perfect it in 1, 2 and 3 I have 2 and wish I had 1 to put it head to head with what we are talking about. I did grab 3D ONE in a gallon from them and saved me $25 which was the best price anywhere! So now I get to try a new compound. Ultimate Cut 6:)

[Flash Gordon]

A 510 since I'm down on that and also grabbed a 32 oz of the Ultimate Cut 6. I also found a detail Body Shop supplier on the other side of the coast and I noticed from there narrowed selection and mostly only available in gallons that they stock the most favorable lines. They had 3D One and Speed only and carried 3M Perfect it in 1, 2 and 3 I have 2 and wish I had 1 to put it head to head with what we are talking about. I did grab 3D ONE in a gallon from them and saved me $25 which was the best price anywhere! So now I get to try a new compound. Ultimate Cut 6:)

Ask for a sample. 3M makes great compounds

[Flash Gordon]

Another thing that might help with the rotary is to apply more pressure using low speed. A 3401 shouldn't outperform a rotary polisher

[DanaDetailingPros]

Well, I'm probably shifting to an independent contractor. I need to find a way out of having to apply those ceramic coatings. Every time I do a car with them it's a complete disaster. Plus, I can charge a little more and have time to tend to much business at home.

I've been fortunate to always be my own boss:) I've been really loving detailing more than I have over the last 30 years. Since I jumped back into the tools and products are so much more advanced! It might as well be 30 years since nothing really changed from the time I started to when I stopped. In those 15 years the industry is light years from where I left off. Which is why you enjoy it and I am enjoying it way more!!! I haven't had a headache of a detail yet! Back then the rotary just left you with miles of holograms and then the real fun began! NOT!!!

[dlc95]

I've been fortunate to always be my own boss:) I've been really loving detailing more than I have over the last 30 years. Since I jumped back into the tools and products are so much more advanced! It might as well be 30 years since nothing really changed from the time I started to when I stopped. In those 15 years the industry is light years from where I left off. Which is why you enjoy it and I am enjoying it way more!!! I haven't had I headache of a detail yet! Back then the rotary just left you with miles of holograms and then the real fun began! NOT!!!

Oh I remember the rotary days! In 98 I got a Wen variable speed "sander/polisher" from Walmart. Wen to the local Painters Supply and was given a tutorial along with Megs wool and maroon, yellow, and tan foam pads. A bottle of M02, M09, M07, and M26, and I was on my way. The first time was a HUGE mess. Lint and M02 splattered all over the cowling of the car... I later picked up M80 Speed Glaze and used that on a cheap auto parts store 6" orbital waxer to use after the M09 on the yellow pad. I didn't need to use M07 when I used M80 I'd finish with the M26, but M80 had a sealant in it. I did a lot of one steps with M80 too. Probably should have followed with a dedicated wax but.... The forums weren't around then to see what other users were experiencing with it.

But.

That wasn't as far back as you're going though! I'd love to hear what you were using back then, the approach, etc. I'm a sucker for history.

And I didn't mention that the owner of the shop is adamant about reimbursing any of us for any product we use there that isn't provided. He's a really good guy. He's actually about two months younger than I.

[DanaDetailingPros]

MG 5 -7 then 16 and 7 again was popular!lol

[DUBL0WS6]

You shouldn't need a rotary for detail work unless you are trying to remove wetsanding scratches. A good RO and foamed wool or MF pads should be enough for 98% of vehicles out there. Unless you have years of experience with a rotary and wool pads, you are asking for trouble. I know a guy with 40 years of body shop experience who burned through fresh single stage paint on an edge with a rotary.

[2black1s]

... I'd love to hear what you were using back then, the approach, etc. I'm a sucker for history.


The main thing I like about rotaries compared to any other polisher, besides the correction ability, is their smoothness. DAs don't come anywhere close to the smoothness of a rotary.

As for pad selection with rotaries I don't have much experience with foam pads, except on my 1, 2, 3 inchers. My 7-9 inch rotary experience is almost exclusively with wool pads.

In the old days I would follow up rotary jobs with a final hand polishing to remove the holograms on the highest end jobs. One step below was finishing with a wool finishing pad and a glaze such as Liquid Ebony (1970s) or later Meg's #3 (1980s on). I also used some hand applications of 3M Fill-N-Glaze early on.

Nowadays, I finish up rotary jobs with a DA.

EDIT: One other thing that rotaries excel at... The ability to use the edge of the pad when necessary, or desired.

[SameGuy]

Oh I remember the rotary days! In 98 I got a Wen variable speed "sander/polisher" from Walmart. Wen to the local Painters Supply and was given a tutorial along with Megs wool and maroon, yellow, and tan foam pads. A bottle of M02, M09, M07, and M26, and I was on my way. The first time was a HUGE mess. Lint and M02 splattered all over the cowling of the car... I later picked up M80 Speed Glaze and used that on a cheap auto parts store 6" orbital waxer to use after the M09 on the yellow pad. I didn't need to use M07 when I used M80 I'd finish with the M26, but M80 had a sealant in it. I did a lot of one steps with M80 too. Probably should have followed with a dedicated wax but.... The forums weren't around then to see what other users were experiencing with it.

But.

That wasn't as far back as you're going though! I'd love to hear what you were using back then, the approach, etc. I'm a sucker for history.

And I didn't mention that the owner of the shop is adamant about reimbursing any of us for any product we use there that isn't provided. He's a really good guy. He's actually about two months younger than I.It me!

[only maybe a decade earlier]

I also punished many a paint job (and my upper body) with a B&D “Professional” 12-inch “orbital” wobbler and wool and terry bonnets in the 80s.

[SameGuy]

“Huh. This compound is gray, but the bonnet is almost the same color as the car. How’d that happen!?” :doh:

[DUBL0WS6]

Ask for a sample. 3M makes great compounds

I'm not sure if 3M has updated all their compounds but some of the Perfect It line had silica in it which is bad for the lungs. Check the label. A respirator is a good idea if working with a compound with silica in it.

[DanaDetailingPros]

It me!

[only maybe a decade earlier]

I also punished many a paint job (and my upper body) with a B&D “Professional” 12-inch “orbital” wobbler and wool and terry bonnets in the 80s.


You shouldn't need a rotary for detail work unless you are trying to remove wetsanding scratches. A good RO and foamed wool or MF pads should be enough for 98% of vehicles out there. Unless you have years of experience with a rotary and wool pads, you are asking for trouble. I know a guy with 40 years of body shop experience who burned through fresh single stage paint on an edge with a rotary.
To each his own.
I don’t use wool unless I feel it’s either deeply scratched or completely sun damaged.
In the last 35 years things have evolved and earlier days we used the rotary all the time then followed with 7424 now we have so much more to address each case. But I’m 100% confident when I do pull out the scalpel!
Should a DIY Type Be Using a Rotary Polisher? - [url]https://youtu.be/Vyz6P9XeYrw (https://youtu.be/CVEiRdpe8vg)

- YouTube (https://youtu.be/IoNlVGIrOH)

What's More Aggressive? Sanding or Multiple Compounding Passes? - [RUPES Replies Episode 030] - YouTube (https://youtu.be/ykiYuJBUPmI)