Expectations of a Mini Polisher?

[ps2cho]

I recently purchased the MaxShine 2" polisher and the youtube reviews dont seem to show it stalling much unless there is a decent amount of pressure applied.
Unfortunately I received mine and a small amount of pressure stalls the thing, its really unable to remove any paint swirls at all because you cant apply any pressure.

I contacted the company, but what exactly should my expectations be for mini polishers? Should I expect them to be able to remove swirls without too much trouble, or are they really just meant for very light swirling?

I just didnt see for a non-professional that I need to spend $650 on the iBrid for a casual polish once every few years.

Thoughts/experience?

[Bruno Soares]

When using 1” or 2” pads you’ll have similar experience with any of them unless you use the rotary mode. The DA will stall easily but those tiny pads do the work without much pressure. If correction is really necessary then use rotary mode and if that leaves haze, then use DA just to clean it up.

[Bosko]

Use a heavier cream and spend more time with less pressure to get better/ faster results.....seems to work for me.
It's a bit frustrating, but it seems to work in the long run..

[opie]

Return it. You could go purchase a ibrid or a flex pxe80. Could also purchase a rotary, then you can run those small pads and or have the means to do more heavy correction should the need ever arrise. Thats the way i went. Glad i did. May be differnet for you though

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[ps2cho]

When using 1” or 2” pads you’ll have similar experience with any of them unless you use the rotary mode. The DA will stall easily but those tiny pads do the work without much pressure. If correction is really necessary then use rotary mode and if that leaves haze, then use DA just to clean it up.

Thanks - I'll give the rotary function a try. I have the Rupes LHR75e which does almost all other areas, so I don't have much to do, hence not wanting to spend $650 on the rupes

[Rsurfer]

Thanks - I'll give the rotary function a try. I have the Rupes LHR75e which does almost all other areas, so I don't have much to do, hence not wanting to spend $650 on the rupes


On most cars I can do the tight areas with the LHR75E with no problems. I can't remember when I needed the Nano except for some grill louvers.

[JustJesus]

another option, that is way easier on the wallet, is the Griot's G8. You can use it with 2" and 3" pads, both backing plates included in the box.

For 1" they offer a separate 1" backing plate attached (permanently) to a small extension.

8mm orbit

[dlc95]

Back off on the pressure. Just make sure that pad is moving. There is a balance, a dance between the pad, and the paint, with the light film of polish being the interface between the two surfaces.

When I'm polishing or cutting paint, I'm trying to be cognizant of what's happening at the point of contact, the orbits, the rotation, and how the paint is being removed.

In essence, I'm trying to use as little pressure as possible to remove paint. I find that I get more movement from the pad this way. It never made sense to me to mash the pad farther into the paint than the scratches are. Meaning. If the scratches are "weight of the tool deep", why would I push past the panel? Just wasting energy and creating more heat than needed.

It works for people, sure, but there are more roads to Rome than the ones the guides show.

[The Guz]

Is this the same tool that Adams sells. If it is it sure seems to stall when they show it on videos.

[DFB]

Is this the same tool that Adams sells. If it is it sure seems to stall when they show it on videos.

From the outside, there are some similarities, but also differences. In particular, the speed adjustment dials are different, as is the outer casing design and bolt holes. Having said that, I would not be surprised if they were the same machine under the skin and made in the same Chinese factory.

https://i.postimg.cc/fTyYGjtW/adamp101.webp (https://postimg.cc/vcR19ntC)

https://i.postimg.cc/v83W2SmS/msmp101.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Coatingsarecrack]

From the outside, there are some similarities, but also differences. In particular, the speed adjustment dials are different, as is the outer casing design and bolt holes. Having said that, I would not be surprised if they were the same machine under the skin and made in the same Chinese factory.

https://i.postimg.cc/fTyYGjtW/adamp101.webp (https://postimg.cc/vcR19ntC)

https://i.postimg.cc/v83W2SmS/msmp101.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

From the outside the do look somewhat similar. Maxshine is the Chinese company itself and was said they made Griots original GG and BOSS polishers.

Saw a review where the guy said it wouldn’t stall with decent pressure.

Was hopeful but now not sure.


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[DanaDetailingPros]

I recently purchased the MaxShine 2" polisher and the youtube reviews dont seem to show it stalling much unless there is a decent amount of pressure applied.
Unfortunately I received mine and a small amount of pressure stalls the thing, its really unable to remove any paint swirls at all because you cant apply any pressure.

I contacted the company, but what exactly should my expectations be for mini polishers? Should I expect them to be able to remove swirls without too much trouble, or are they really just meant for very light swirling?

I just didnt see for a non-professional that I need to spend $650 on the iBrid for a casual polish once every few years.

Thoughts/experience?
Send it back ASAP! Mine has been killer! I use micro pads and foam and it has plenty of power. Actually I was on the surprised side how much torque it had. I don't lay into mine though.
I have corrected allot with mine and zero stalls.

[DanaDetailingPros]

When using 1” or 2” pads you’ll have similar experience with any of them unless you use the rotary mode. The DA will stall easily but those tiny pads do the work without much pressure. If correction is really necessary then use rotary mode and if that leaves haze, then use DA just to clean it up.


Use a heavier cream and spend more time with less pressure to get better/ faster results.....seems to work for me.
It's a bit frustrating, but it seems to work in the long run..


Back off on the pressure. Just make sure that pad is moving. There is a balance, a dance between the pad, and the paint, with the light film of polish being the interface between the two surfaces.

When I'm polishing or cutting paint, I'm trying to be cognizant of what's happening at the point of contact, the orbits, the rotation, and how the paint is being removed.

In essence, I'm trying to use as little pressure as possible to remove paint. I find that I get more movement from the pad this way. It never made sense to me to mash the pad farther into the paint than the scratches are. Meaning. If the scratches are "weight of the tool deep", why would I push past the panel? Just wasting energy and creating more heat than needed.

It works for people, sure, but there are more roads to Rome than the ones the guides show.


From the outside, there are some similarities, but also differences. In particular, the speed adjustment dials are different, as is the outer casing design and bolt holes. Having said that, I would not be surprised if they were the same machine under the skin and made in the same Chinese factory.

https://i.postimg.cc/fTyYGjtW/adamp101.webp (https://postimg.cc/vcR19ntC)

https://i.postimg.cc/v83W2SmS/msmp101.jpg (https://postimages.org/)


Specs same. All same CHIT different smell! Adam's just changed exterior cosmetics. I did try and use there electric corded battery and it didn't work:( Had to send it back.
I have the 75 and mainly just use that. But under door handles is where it has really been useful. Almost forgot! I only use it on rotary. That's where he is having problems!

[DanaDetailingPros]

When using 1” or 2” pads you’ll have similar experience with any of them unless you use the rotary mode. The DA will stall easily but those tiny pads do the work without much pressure. If correction is really necessary then use rotary mode and if that leaves haze, then use DA just to clean it up.


Use a heavier cream and spend more time with less pressure to get better/ faster results.....seems to work for me.
It's a bit frustrating, but it seems to work in the long run..


Back off on the pressure. Just make sure that pad is moving. There is a balance, a dance between the pad, and the paint, with the light film of polish being the interface between the two surfaces.

When I'm polishing or cutting paint, I'm trying to be cognizant of what's happening at the point of contact, the orbits, the rotation, and how the paint is being removed.

In essence, I'm trying to use as little pressure as possible to remove paint. I find that I get more movement from the pad this way. It never made sense to me to mash the pad farther into the paint than the scratches are. Meaning. If the scratches are "weight of the tool deep", why would I push past the panel? Just wasting energy and creating more heat than needed.

It works for people, sure, but there are more roads to Rome than the ones the guides show.


Return it. You could go purchase a ibrid or a flex pxe80. Could also purchase a rotary, then you can run those small pads and or have the means to do more heavy correction should the need ever arrise. Thats the way i went. Glad i did. May be differnet for you though

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Ibird,flex PXE or rotary? I'm curious when you said the 3 choices? I don't like changing plates personally. I wish I had $630 to throw down on a Ibrid:( I use the 75 for 3"And LH19E w/ 5" The mini 2"
I was going to grab the ibrid next. But thought I'd give the Maxshine a shot and glad I did!

[Coatingsarecrack]

Send it back ASAP! Mine has been killer! I use micro pads and foam and it has plenty of power. Actually I was on the surprised side how much torque it had. I don't lay into mine though.
I have corrected allot with mine and zero stalls.

Do you use in rotary or orbital mode?

Edit: answered in another post.


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