iroc86
10-19-2022, 09:10 AM
A few years ago, I posted a question (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/119537-keeping-car-clean-high-desert-climate-nm-co-tips-suggestions.html) about cleaning a vehicle in a harsh desert climate. You all offered some great suggestions, and since then, I have upped my game around my detailing process and also learned a bit more about the water composition in my area. I'm following up to ask about removing some very stubborn water spot etchings--unfortunately, some aspect of my process broke down and I'm finding myself having to perform paint correction.
My water contains a very high concentration of silica. I live near an extinct supervolcano (yeah... :eek:) and my water is sourced from a volcanic aquifer. The water composition is not unlike the fancy bottled mineral water that comes from islands in the Pacific Ocean. Purported health benefits aside, the silica causes real damage to anything it touches if left to dry and harden (especially at high altitude with UV exposure, such as where I live). Dishware, bathroom fixtures, windows, etc. eventually turn into a water-spotted and etched mess. Car paint is especially prone to damage.
Unfortunately, silica mitigation is not something you usually find when searching for water spot removal techniques. It's not hard water in the traditional sense. In water spot form, it's essentially a glass that requires mechanical removal. The problem I'm facing now appears to be long-term bonded silica, which may have also etched the clear coat on my car. These are like "Type II+++" water spots.
I've tried a number of different ways to remove the spots, but I can't eliminate them. The most aggressive compounding process I've performed is using Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 (https://www.koch-chemie.com/en/products/heavy_cut_h902) and the matching red foam pad (https://www.koch-chemie.com/us/products/heavy_cut_pad) with a Flex gear-driven DA. This removed the surface-level defects (probably the glass portion of the silica deposit) but I think what I'm seeing left behind is the etching into the clear coat. This compound is supposed to remove 1500-3000 grit sanding scratches, which I would have expected to be aggressive enough to remove the etchings, but maybe not.
I also tried wet sanding a small area by hand with a 3M Finesse-it Refining Disc (3000 grit) (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065070/) and then following up with the same compounding process. This removed about 50% of the spots, but I was also not very aggressive. I'd like to avoid sanding if possible.
My next attempt is to use a wool pad on my gear-driven DA to maybe split the difference between compounding with foam and wet sanding. I don't have high confidence in this approach, considering how stubborn these spots are, but I figure it's worth a shot. I don't have a rotary buffer anymore, but I'm hoping the Flex XCE is powerful enough for wool. (I also have a Flex PXE that I can use as a rotary, but only with 1-inch pads; not really practical in this situation).
I'm curious if any of the experts here have any tips or suggestions. Are there any other methods I could try? If I were to pursue sanding, would you suggest hand sanding or using a machine?
Oh, and this is a fairly new car (2020) with minimal use... 6000 miles. Garaged and well cared-for. Paint is in excellent condition otherwise. In the picture below, the top panel has been compounded, and the bottom has not (only clayed). The paint is shinier, but the spots aren't much different.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=75746&d=1666188231
My water contains a very high concentration of silica. I live near an extinct supervolcano (yeah... :eek:) and my water is sourced from a volcanic aquifer. The water composition is not unlike the fancy bottled mineral water that comes from islands in the Pacific Ocean. Purported health benefits aside, the silica causes real damage to anything it touches if left to dry and harden (especially at high altitude with UV exposure, such as where I live). Dishware, bathroom fixtures, windows, etc. eventually turn into a water-spotted and etched mess. Car paint is especially prone to damage.
Unfortunately, silica mitigation is not something you usually find when searching for water spot removal techniques. It's not hard water in the traditional sense. In water spot form, it's essentially a glass that requires mechanical removal. The problem I'm facing now appears to be long-term bonded silica, which may have also etched the clear coat on my car. These are like "Type II+++" water spots.
I've tried a number of different ways to remove the spots, but I can't eliminate them. The most aggressive compounding process I've performed is using Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 (https://www.koch-chemie.com/en/products/heavy_cut_h902) and the matching red foam pad (https://www.koch-chemie.com/us/products/heavy_cut_pad) with a Flex gear-driven DA. This removed the surface-level defects (probably the glass portion of the silica deposit) but I think what I'm seeing left behind is the etching into the clear coat. This compound is supposed to remove 1500-3000 grit sanding scratches, which I would have expected to be aggressive enough to remove the etchings, but maybe not.
I also tried wet sanding a small area by hand with a 3M Finesse-it Refining Disc (3000 grit) (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065070/) and then following up with the same compounding process. This removed about 50% of the spots, but I was also not very aggressive. I'd like to avoid sanding if possible.
My next attempt is to use a wool pad on my gear-driven DA to maybe split the difference between compounding with foam and wet sanding. I don't have high confidence in this approach, considering how stubborn these spots are, but I figure it's worth a shot. I don't have a rotary buffer anymore, but I'm hoping the Flex XCE is powerful enough for wool. (I also have a Flex PXE that I can use as a rotary, but only with 1-inch pads; not really practical in this situation).
I'm curious if any of the experts here have any tips or suggestions. Are there any other methods I could try? If I were to pursue sanding, would you suggest hand sanding or using a machine?
Oh, and this is a fairly new car (2020) with minimal use... 6000 miles. Garaged and well cared-for. Paint is in excellent condition otherwise. In the picture below, the top panel has been compounded, and the bottom has not (only clayed). The paint is shinier, but the spots aren't much different.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=75746&d=1666188231