The Guz
03-13-2022, 02:34 PM
Mike Phillips used to do this on the forum so that everyone can chime in. I appreciate the PM's asking for advice on various products. But at times it is simply faster getting answers from the knowledgeable forum community. Other members feel free to chime in this thread to help illusion27.
As a matter of fact illusion27 introduce yourself to the community here by starting a thread.
The original question asked. In the end it was settled that CQuartz UK 3.0 was going to be the coating of choice.
Quote Originally Posted by illusion27
Hello Guz
I have a 2015 Black Hona CRV. I used to wash and waxwith Carnuba wax every 3 months which i did for the first three years . After that not getting the time anymore I switched to Ceramic Coating. I have coated my car twice with MCkee MK37-260 Sio2 coating. It has help up for 2 years. I drive less than 5k Miles a Year, keep my car garaged 90% of the times but now it is time to do it again. I am thinking is it possible to apply a better product like Cquartz or any other product (Adams UV Graphene,NanoBond) which has even better durability ? I always do a paint correciton using my Griot's DA Polisher ( together with meguiars Pink Compound) before applying any coatings. Your advise is greatly appreciated. I am not a very big fan of high gloss but for me durability is a must !
The question on preparation
Thank you Guz , I will go with Cquartz UK 3.0. Here are my steps for surface prep :-
1) Pressure Wash and Clean My Car with soap .
2)Paint Correction using Meguiar Pink Correction Compound D300 and my GG DA Polisher ( I use Meguiar White Cutting Pad)
3)Wipe Down using 70% IPA + Microfiber Cloth
4)Apply Cqaurtz UK3.0 ( 1 Coat) . What is the advanatge of 2 coat vs 1 coat
5)Garage the car for 24 Hrs and let it cure.
I see some people apply ironx and also claybar the car not sure whether those are essential or recommended steps.
Will the above be good enough ?
Also I see they sell Carpro Reload . Do you know what does that does exactly and what is the best way to use it ?
Thank you again for hgelping me out.
My response
You may want to consider adding a polishing step after D300. Or do a test spot with a polish rather than going straight to a compound. Also invest in CarPro Eraser instead of IPA. IPA does not do much. Yes to an iron remover and you will have to determine if you need to clay if you feel any roughness on the surface. It is a good idea to do it though.
Corey can answer the benefits of two layers in this video.
How to Install CARPRO CQUARTZ UK 3.0 for lasting protection ◢◤ Sky's The Limit Car Care - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lq9Q4VdEvM&t=165s&ab_channel=Sky%27stheLimitCarCare)
Also the directions come in the box but you can always go to the CarPro US site as well.
Here is the video on Reload. It is a spray sealant. It is used to maintain the coating as well as protect it during the curing time frame.
CARPRO Reload Demo/ Discussion ◢◤ Sky's The Limit Car Care - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K80TSDG19mo&ab_channel=Sky%27stheLimitCarCare)
Further update on the conversation
Hi Guz
Thanks again for the links. I will definitely try to use them to buy some products.
When you were saying that I need to add a polishing step , did you mean I need to polish the car using say Meguiar D301 ? Can you give me another good polish which I can use ? I have many product lying around which are 5+ years old like the Klasse Gloss Action Sealant as well as The Griot Garage One Step Sealant ( got it with my DA Polisher) , I am thinking those products should not be used as they are quite old.
Instead of clay i was thinking of using this nanoskin . It has been a long time since I have done this , can I just use car soap or meguiar detailer as lube for the nanoskin ?
The steps to fully prepare for a coating are well know and documented. As I and countless others have mentioned, the test spot is the key to dictate what the paint really needs. A compound is not required at all times. We are at the point these days where full paint correction is no longer a necessity when applying a coating. Some professionals are applying coatings to unpolished paint and swirled out paint.
With regards to the above mentioned products, Klasse is a sealant and no sealant should be used prior to a coating. The second is a Griot's product which is an all in one (AIO) which again no AIO should be used prior to a coating. This will end up with premature coating failure. D301 is nice but it is also an AIO.
There are plenty of polishes from Meguiar's M205, Meguiar's M210, Sonax Perfect Finish, CarPro Reflect and the list goes on. Polishes have come a long way these days and a majority of them work well. The key is a panel wipe prior to applying a coating.
If it were me I would invest in the Dr. Beasley's surface primers for the fact they do not require a panel wipe. One can go straight into the coating application. The lone up of three polishes gives a wide range of versatility. From a compound to a finishing polish. In most cases one can get a way with NSP 150 and NSP 45 if doing a two step correction. NSP 95 makes for a fine one step.
As far as the option of clay, either a traditional clay bar or clay alternative is fine. No need to overthink the claying process.
As a matter of fact illusion27 introduce yourself to the community here by starting a thread.
The original question asked. In the end it was settled that CQuartz UK 3.0 was going to be the coating of choice.
Quote Originally Posted by illusion27
Hello Guz
I have a 2015 Black Hona CRV. I used to wash and waxwith Carnuba wax every 3 months which i did for the first three years . After that not getting the time anymore I switched to Ceramic Coating. I have coated my car twice with MCkee MK37-260 Sio2 coating. It has help up for 2 years. I drive less than 5k Miles a Year, keep my car garaged 90% of the times but now it is time to do it again. I am thinking is it possible to apply a better product like Cquartz or any other product (Adams UV Graphene,NanoBond) which has even better durability ? I always do a paint correciton using my Griot's DA Polisher ( together with meguiars Pink Compound) before applying any coatings. Your advise is greatly appreciated. I am not a very big fan of high gloss but for me durability is a must !
The question on preparation
Thank you Guz , I will go with Cquartz UK 3.0. Here are my steps for surface prep :-
1) Pressure Wash and Clean My Car with soap .
2)Paint Correction using Meguiar Pink Correction Compound D300 and my GG DA Polisher ( I use Meguiar White Cutting Pad)
3)Wipe Down using 70% IPA + Microfiber Cloth
4)Apply Cqaurtz UK3.0 ( 1 Coat) . What is the advanatge of 2 coat vs 1 coat
5)Garage the car for 24 Hrs and let it cure.
I see some people apply ironx and also claybar the car not sure whether those are essential or recommended steps.
Will the above be good enough ?
Also I see they sell Carpro Reload . Do you know what does that does exactly and what is the best way to use it ?
Thank you again for hgelping me out.
My response
You may want to consider adding a polishing step after D300. Or do a test spot with a polish rather than going straight to a compound. Also invest in CarPro Eraser instead of IPA. IPA does not do much. Yes to an iron remover and you will have to determine if you need to clay if you feel any roughness on the surface. It is a good idea to do it though.
Corey can answer the benefits of two layers in this video.
How to Install CARPRO CQUARTZ UK 3.0 for lasting protection ◢◤ Sky's The Limit Car Care - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lq9Q4VdEvM&t=165s&ab_channel=Sky%27stheLimitCarCare)
Also the directions come in the box but you can always go to the CarPro US site as well.
Here is the video on Reload. It is a spray sealant. It is used to maintain the coating as well as protect it during the curing time frame.
CARPRO Reload Demo/ Discussion ◢◤ Sky's The Limit Car Care - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K80TSDG19mo&ab_channel=Sky%27stheLimitCarCare)
Further update on the conversation
Hi Guz
Thanks again for the links. I will definitely try to use them to buy some products.
When you were saying that I need to add a polishing step , did you mean I need to polish the car using say Meguiar D301 ? Can you give me another good polish which I can use ? I have many product lying around which are 5+ years old like the Klasse Gloss Action Sealant as well as The Griot Garage One Step Sealant ( got it with my DA Polisher) , I am thinking those products should not be used as they are quite old.
Instead of clay i was thinking of using this nanoskin . It has been a long time since I have done this , can I just use car soap or meguiar detailer as lube for the nanoskin ?
The steps to fully prepare for a coating are well know and documented. As I and countless others have mentioned, the test spot is the key to dictate what the paint really needs. A compound is not required at all times. We are at the point these days where full paint correction is no longer a necessity when applying a coating. Some professionals are applying coatings to unpolished paint and swirled out paint.
With regards to the above mentioned products, Klasse is a sealant and no sealant should be used prior to a coating. The second is a Griot's product which is an all in one (AIO) which again no AIO should be used prior to a coating. This will end up with premature coating failure. D301 is nice but it is also an AIO.
There are plenty of polishes from Meguiar's M205, Meguiar's M210, Sonax Perfect Finish, CarPro Reflect and the list goes on. Polishes have come a long way these days and a majority of them work well. The key is a panel wipe prior to applying a coating.
If it were me I would invest in the Dr. Beasley's surface primers for the fact they do not require a panel wipe. One can go straight into the coating application. The lone up of three polishes gives a wide range of versatility. From a compound to a finishing polish. In most cases one can get a way with NSP 150 and NSP 45 if doing a two step correction. NSP 95 makes for a fine one step.
As far as the option of clay, either a traditional clay bar or clay alternative is fine. No need to overthink the claying process.