Need some tips on older single stage.

[Littleblazer]

First let me say this. I already read this (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html) article so I feel I have a decent handle what I have to do.

The car, 1955 thunderbird with a lacquer paint job done in the early 80s if memory serves. Now I don't believe it has ever had anything more than a wash done to it over the years but it was always garage kept. The garage is damp so that does and doesn't help.

I'm unsure if I just want to go with #7 and then a good wax or if I actually want to get into correction. There are some small blisters in obvious spots that I don't want to put a rotary to so... thats off. If I'm hitting correction by machine it will be with my porter cable only.

Now as far as the number 7... my current work schedule I just don't have the time to go over the car several times by hand. I have two days off this week and I know one will be spent mostly rebuilding the carb and maintenance.

So with that, I've seen mixed results of applying #7 by machine. Some say yes, some no... I'd like opinions on that because if I can optimize time spent and get everything else done at the sacrifice of a perfect finish I'm okay with that. The paint isn't amazing to begin with but it's more make it look good with what it's got vs as good as it can get. (Again why I'm leaning to 7 then wax only) it always shined and looked pretty good with just a cleaning. I use zip wax on most my vehicles and that has always had this one looking pretty darn good after. So will I be satisfied with a 1-2 or will I probably want to do some mild correction with the DA too. I don't have great photos of the paint but I've attached two (it's very dusty, not that dull) just to understand what I'm working with.

7438974390

Thanks for any tips.

-Paul

[DUBL0WS6]

I'd do #7 by hand and then if it looks like it needs more work you hit sections with a PC. Then top with wax.

[2black1s]

... (Again why I'm leaning to 7 then wax only) it always shined and looked pretty good with just a cleaning. I use zip wax on most my vehicles and that has always had this one looking pretty darn good after...

Based on this quoted portion of your post, I'd skip the #7 altogether. With the same amount of effort (maybe even less) I think you'd get better results using a good AIO.

In my experience #7 excels in providing exceptional gloss and clarity on show quality paint. That is where I would use it... As an LSP on something that is not exposed regularly to typical environments and does not need a high degree of protection like you would get from waxes, sealants or coatings.

As a secondary usage, #7 can be and is used to nourish aged paint that has deteriorated to some point. It doesn't sound like you have reached that point yet.

Since your car "always shined and looked pretty good with just a cleaning" I doubt that it will benefit much from the #7 unless you're using it as I described for the show quality paint above.

Otherwise I think you'd get the best bang for your buck from a quality AIO. There's a lot of good AIOs to choose from. For me that would be Meguiar's OTC Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle (A12), #6, or D166.

[Littleblazer]

Update: gave it a quick wash yesterday just to drive it on grandpa's birthday. Literally everyone asked what I did to make it shine. It is a lot better than even I remembered and I think the AIO quick with the DA will be more than enough. I will snap some pictures later.

[2black1s]

Sounds like a good plan to me. I'll look forward to your pics.

[Littleblazer]

Some before shots of the paint.7441274413744147441574416
It is a lot better than I remember like I said. You can see some swirls and haloing but otherwise not dull. I'll keep you all updated.

[Littleblazer]

And that's all I'm doing. It cleaned up well.744177441874419
I used the red bottle, as I could get it locally. Used a DA with a medium cut/finishing. I may run over it quick again with a polishing pad but we'll see. The area on the back between the bumper and trunk lid is dull as crap but I don't think it was ever finished. It just looks like dull rattle can imo. I also noticed it said chrome safe so I hit the chrome quick and man does it shine that up we'll too. It's like a different car. I also picked up a can of the paste to try as it was on sale cheap. I have a vehicle it may work well on. Will continue to update.