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2black1s
08-09-2021, 04:15 PM
BigFoot 101: Priming Pads [Chapter 03] - Bing video (https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=rupes+method+for+pad+priming&docid=608036613259920998&mid=CCD7275422708830A33FCCD7275422708830A33F&view=detail&FORM=VIRE) (Jump to 2:50 minute mark)

Does anyone else see this pad priming process as unnecessarily risky? I certainly do!

I would never, ever, under any circumstance, press down on a polisher in a single location for 20-30 seconds as shown in the linked video.

I cut my teeth with rotary polishers in the late 1960s so my opinion may differ from those of you who learned with Random Orbital Polishers. While I completely understand that Random Orbital Polishers are less aggressive and much more forgiving than a Rotary Polisher, I can't see myself ever running ANY polisher in a single location for that period of time.

Keeping a polisher moving at all times is something I learned a very long time ago and that practice is something I still employ, regardless of polisher type.

If I were ever to use this Rupes recommended method to prime a pad, I'd have to have a dedicated scrap panel to use for pad priming. I could never bring myself to doing that process on a car I was polishing.

What do you guys and girls think?

The Guz
08-09-2021, 04:18 PM
Nope don’t see it as risky. Have done it many times. The tool is set to a low speed anyway. I believe they mention speed 2 or 3.

98CayenneTA
08-09-2021, 04:24 PM
I agree 100% and find that priming method to be absolutley utterly unnecessary, risky and over the top..... Honestly kinda silly.....

Put product on your pad and make your section passes.... boom, done, pad primed.

PaulMys
08-09-2021, 05:08 PM
To each his own, but I would never do that to prime a pad.

Like 98CTA said, just apply the initial amount of product and get to work. Done.

chilly
08-09-2021, 06:13 PM
While on the subject of pad priming does anyone have any insights or comments on Todd Cooperider of Esoteric and his statement that pad priming is totally unnecessary when using "good products"?

I am specifically referring to him talking about using Megs microfiber cutting pads with Jescar Correcting Compound

He says 3 dots of product and go to work, no priming required

I tried that ONCE and it felt sooooooo wrong

Look up "dry buffing" and there is a picture of me trying that process (well not really)

I know people will use a ton to prime a microfiber pad, blot, brush, or blow out the excess and then put 3 more dots down for actual cutting and I feel that is overkill in the opposite direction

I will use maybe 50% more than I normally would for a section pass to smear in to prime and then a couple dots more

There are a lot of YouTube detailing people who are entertaining but who I certainly don't take advice from but Todd has always seemed to be one of the most genuine and believable people out there

IDK...

98CayenneTA
08-09-2021, 06:24 PM
I usually prime microfiber pads just because it makes the initial pass much smoother.

As far as prime vs non and the way a quality product finishes down I usually get slightly more micro maring when not priming for the first couple sections.

PaulMys
08-09-2021, 06:44 PM
While on the subject of pad priming does anyone have any insights or comments on Todd Cooperider of Esoteric and his statement that pad priming is totally unnecessary when using "good products"?

I am specifically referring to him talking about using Megs microfiber cutting pads with Jescar Correcting Compound

He says 3 dots of product and go to work, no priming required

I tried that ONCE and it felt sooooooo wrong

Look up "dry buffing" and there is a picture of me trying that process (well not really)

I know people will use a ton to prime a microfiber pad, blot, brush, or blow out the excess and then put 3 more dots down for actual cutting and I feel that is overkill in the opposite direction

I will use maybe 50% more than I normally would for a section pass to smear in to prime and then a couple dots more

There are a lot of YouTube detailing people who are entertaining but who I certainly don't take advice from but Todd has always seemed to be one of the most genuine and believable people out there

IDK...

No way.

I read that "3 dot method" as well before I ever machine polished. Even knowing next to nothing, that seemed wrong. (And it is.)

Learning the correct amount of product to prime with takes a little practice, but it's not difficult. What pads, products, paint, and even weather conditions can be a factors. But don't overthink it.

I always start with a nice, generous circle of product on a new (foam) pad, and then I quickly spread it out on low speed. Then, ramp the speed up and go.

IMO, starting with too little or too much product is no huge deal. One will get you a little micro-marring, and one will prematurely clog the pad and not cut as well/heat up.

If you know what you are trying to achieve, and correct either problem soon after starting, it's nothing to worry about. But 3 dots?? Nope!

Bruno Soares
08-09-2021, 06:50 PM
I don’t think it’s too risky at speed 2 like they recommend but I’ve never done it myself. I don’t prime foam pads anymore, I just put a little more product on the first go. I do prime microfiber pads though.

chilly
08-09-2021, 08:44 PM
Thanks for the feedback

It felt wrong to me as well

To each his own but I’ll prime microfiber pads

I’m just a retired guy in his garage so time is not money and a few more ounces of product per car won’t break me

Regards Everyone

Michael

chilly
08-09-2021, 08:56 PM
PS

Apologies for the hijack

I totally agree with the OP concerning Rupes method of priming

It flies in the face of everything I was ever taught about using an orbital

That bit of the video stuck in my mind when I watched it and honestly caused me to immediately be suspicious of the rest of the content

Again, to each his own but I will keep my pad moving thank you very much

noorth
08-10-2021, 02:04 PM
I don’t think it’s too risky at speed 2 like they recommend but I’ve never done it myself. I don’t prime foam pads anymore, I just put a little more product on the first go. I do prime microfiber pads though.

Basically what i do. The first application i will put more then usual on the pad and the few times i used microfiber i primed it - i 1 step mostly so i don't use microfiber very often. Just seems like the logical thing to do with microfiber. Hundreds of successful detailers i'd imagine that don't prime foam pads. While the gloss i got from rupes DA fine and yellow foam pad is very good it doesn't have a very long working time. Rupes seems to be creating a very rigid system. Not my thing personally. I like to use my own imagination and intuition more then that. Back to 3D One, again. :D

Speed 2 shouldn't be risky i don't think.

chilly
10-01-2021, 11:36 AM
I figured since we had already kicked this topic around I would post here

I have a feeling I must not have been the only one to question his methods

Almost 20 minutes on priming vs not priming

DEBUNKING pad priming, with SCIENCE! - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzJJAV-P8Uw)

His conclusion is MORE hazing/micro marring from priming...

:confused:

The Guz
10-01-2021, 12:50 PM
I saw that video. I will stick the manufacturers pad priming recommendations rather than this method. Those gloss meters are nice but it is still flawed as it is not always the same number even placed in the same area. It is not like the pad is being primed every pass so no excess product is wasted.

Rsurfer
10-01-2021, 01:39 PM
I saw that video. I will stick the manufacturers pad priming recommendations rather than this method. Those gloss meters are nice but it is still flawed as it is not always the same number even placed in the same area. It is not like the pad is being primed every pass so no excess product is wasted.
:iagree:And since you don't change pads after every panel, eventually your non primed pad will be primed.

luckydawg
10-01-2021, 05:17 PM
Personally I believe the manufactures of products know what they are talking about 99.999999999999999999999999% ( you get the idea here ) of the time. The reason is to generate a LITTLE heat to make the pad more flexible / workable. Wouldn't generate enough heat to do any damage.