Old newbie here - appreciate your thoughts and advice...

[restorick]

Hello all,

As I get closer to retirement, I'm trying to educate myself on the various products for taking care of your car. My vehicles are nice, but not show quality. I just want to be able to protect them from the elements and help preserve them from the harsh Wisconsin winters.

I know wax on, wax off. That may work fine on my wife's Mustang, but for my Sierra it would be a bit of a bear. So that said, do I dive into the acrylic pool and take my chances or stick with what I know and deal with the reality that I'll need to reapply every 6 weeks or so.

Thanks in advance - really appreciate this forum!

Rick

[Texchappy]

6 weeks isn’t super long by protection standards today so just about anything will meet your needs. Are you looking for the easiest to apply?

Also, welcome!

[restorick]

Thanks Texchappy.

Easy is preferred. But I'm also inclined to buy once, cry once. So if a product is significantly better and requires extra effort, I'll definitely consider it.

Thanks again!
Rick

[glen e]

It can still be “wax on wax off” if you want, but I haven’t done that for years, now it’s “spray on wipe off”. Most of the new sprays that are out there are significantly easier to apply And last 4 to 6 months. Which is a lot longer than the old waxes most people are used to ….a few sprays that everybody likes here are the 303 graphene spray, blackfire SI02 spray and Griots 3 in 1 ceramic spray. Surf through the threads here you’ll find all three mentioned and some good reviews in the product section.

[Texchappy]

Glen’s suggestions are great. One of the easiest that I’ve used is Optimum Optiseal. It’s wipe on and walk away. It will last at least the six weeks you said and probably a bit longer.

Just got the Griot’s 3in1 ceramic for my son’s car as he goes off to college. It was really easy to use and most things I’ve seen say 6-7 months at least. The most important thing with it (and Optiseal) is less is more.

[restorick]

Thx to you both. I'll spend some time checking the forums and get a couple to try. Appreciate the quick response!

Rick

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[PaulMys]

You can "Wax on, wax off" every 6 months (not weeks) with a nice, inexpensive can of Collinite 476S "Super Double Coat" Auto Wax.

:)

[Texchappy]

If you’re going to be washing the cars yourself, you might also look at one of the spray on/rinse off products like Gyeon WetCoat.

[weekend warrior]

restorick...I will be 80 years old in July....I just enjoy taking care of my car...want it to look good....depending on your car's paint ...I have used Blackfire one step....which cleans...polishes and protects....and Blackfire SIO2 sealant...and my car looks great...I do apply the sealant like every 2 to 3 weeks...lol need to do something to keep busy

[Coatingsarecrack]

Try a coating lite product. Will hold up to those Wisconsin winters and should get 9-12 months from it.


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[Dredogol]

...My vehicles are nice, but not show quality. I just want to be able to protect them from the elements and help preserve them from the harsh Wisconsin winters.
I know wax on, wax off. That may work fine on my wife's Mustang, but for my Sierra it would be a bit of a bear. So that said, do I dive into the acrylic pool and take my chances or stick with what I know and deal with the reality that I'll need to reapply every 6 weeks or so...

Welcome to the forums Rick!
I was in your same shoes several years ago and learned quite a lot over the years as an enthusiast detailer for family/friend vehicles.

I won't list any specific products, but more general categories and use-case/limitations as I find that to be more important. If you get the wrong product for what you're trying to do... it won't matter. :)

This is what I usually do every year:
Spring: Do a full strip-down of all previous protectant + any paint correction steps + and apply a fresh layer of protection.
Summer: Routine maintenance washes
Autumn: Routine maintenance washes + refresh layer of LSP (protection)
Winter: Power-wash only road salts.

I live in an apartment, so don't have access to running water or a way to clean my car in a warm garage during winter months either. :(
I usually do a Waterless and/or Rinseless Wash (no running water).
You can look up on HOW to do this CORRECTLY, as you do not want to scratch your paint as you do it.

Remember... ANY form of cleaning (even using power wash/bucket method with wash mitts) WILL scratch your paint... it is all about the washing technique that minimizes your risk of scratching.
NEVER do circles when washing your vehicle as this WILL cause swirl marks; only do hatch patterns per panel when washing and always keep your wash mitt/cloth clean and lubricated.
The more you wash and wax, the more likely you are to micro scratch the paint!
:autowash:


My #1 tip to getting the BEST performance out of ANY protectant (LSP):
Apply it on a super squeaky clean surface free of any dirt/oil/solvents/etc.

It doesn't have to be scratch/swirl mark free... just super clean for the product to bond to the paint's clear coat.
That means using an APC wash + Iron Decontamination + Clay Bar + Surface Prep.
HOWEVER... I would not recommend doing an APC wash on a routine basis as this could damage your paint's clear coat over time and/or any plastic/chrome on the vehicle.
Also, DO NOT Clay-bar on a routine basis. It is abrasive and will scratch the paint... only clay when required.
All other times, I use a PH neutral product to prevent stripping my protectant/LSP.
I only do this once a year or whenever my sealant/coating wears off and requires a fresh layer.
You can tell you have a clean surface when you see water taking FOREVER to sheet off your paint.
Quick sheeting and/or water beading = still has protection on paint.

FYI... I've owned my White Honda Civic daily drive for 5 years now, and only did a Clay + Polish routine 1x during that entire time (not even compound step). If you use the CORRECT products and follow a specific routine CORRECTLY, your paint will look great for a long time. :)


In terms of resilience and longevity, they go as follows:
Carnauba Wax --> Synthetic Wax --> Synthetic Sealant --> Ceramic/Graphene Spray Sealants --> Ceramic/Graphene Coatings

Each has their pros/cons.
Carnauba Wax
is the good-old wax-on/wax-off plant based wax which provides the BEST deep color/richness you like to see at car shows. Comes in a paste/liquid form. It's easy to remove, but also lasts the shortest and melts in the super hot summer days. You also cannot apply it on plastic, else it turns white... need to tape it all off. Usually lasts weeks to 1-2mo max.
Synthetic Wax
lasts longer and generally easier to apply; provides slightly less deep rich colors. Comes in a paste/liquid/spray wax form. Most can be applied on plastic trims without problems; some even in direct sunlight! Usually lasts weeks to 1-2mo max.
Synthetic Sealant
'seals' the clear coat by bonding to it much longer. You usually get 3-6mo. performance wise.
Ceramic/Graphene Spray Sealants (generally 1-20% Sio2)
are fairly new and provide a good 1yr performance. More difficult to remove and provides greater chemical resistance being somewhat easy to apply. More difficult to remove than any other above.
Ceramic/Graphene Coatings (generally 50-90% SiO2
are the best performers from 2-5yr longevity. It is basically putting a semi-permanent clear coat above the existing clear coat (H7-H9 hardness 1-2um thick). These usually come in tiny glass bottles and require special application steps. It is VERY difficult to remove chemically, may also requires mechanical removal.
It's not bullet proof and will scratch and degrade over time. Just understand its limitations, difficulty in removal if paint correction is required, and cost/benefit for what you need.

If you're new to detailing, I would stay away from Ceramic Coatings. You need to put in on a super clean surface with all paint correction steps completed prior to application. Also, the stronger the SiO2 concentration (50-80% consumer grade), the longer it will last. Some consumer grade Ceramic Coatings are easier to apply than others. Professional grade is above 80% concentration and requires specific humidity/temperate/IR drying requirements for it to cure properly in a specific time-frame.

Paint Protection Film (PPF) is another product you might consider.
It is a thin plastic film (about 6-8mil thickness) that protects from UV and rock-chips and generally lasts 5-7 years before it yellows and hardens to the point it needs to be replaced. Its also SUPER EASY to clean bug splatter off of. This can be VERY EXPENSIVE, depending on how much of your car your put PPF on. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself, have a professional do it. There is also special technique in removing... otherwise you CAN rip off your clear coat and paint!
I self-applied PPF on my Civic when I first got it and it was a LIFE SAVER! (Cost $300 + no labor because I installed; otherwise would have cost like $1200) It doesn't look the greatest, but it saved me from all the rock chips/bug splatter/acid-etching over the years. Clay/Compound/Polish/ front bumper routinely sucks!

I'm getting a new car in a few days and plan on putting a Ceramic Coating + PPF (front only) on it myself, so my Spring Cleaning routine will be very similar to my Autumn routine until the ceramic coating wears off in 2+ years.


There are hundreds of products out there and each has their pro/con.
If you always ask yourself WHAT you want the product to do, HOW OFTEN you need to apply it, and WHAT SKILLS/METHOD is required to use it... it'll make your product searching much easier and won't be disapointed by the product's performance. Also, aks yourself if you need the product to be usable in direct sunlight?

Remember... you don't need the latest/greatest in protection/products because everyone is raving about it... just get what you are comfortable with and use that and gradually try a few new things and work into it.

I hope this helps you and steer you in the right direction for what you need for your specific skills / application requirements.

[Dredogol]

@restorick

Forgot to add, make sure when doing your cleaning/polish/seal 'system' that you do NOT mix towels (both using & washing).

For example:
- I always keep a WHEEL only bucket and towels (red) and it NEVER gets mixed with any of my other towels to prevent sand/brake dust from scratching the paint, even in the washing machine!
- I always use certain microfiber towel/colors to separate Cleaning / Glass / Interior / Wax / Sealant / etc.
- I NEVER put wax/sealant coated towels in the wash with any other towel; the hydrophobic properties will transfer to my other towels and hinder performance in the event the 1st wash misses.
- Hang dry your towels... you don't want residual softener/lint on them from your other daily laundry.

These are just a few tips to keep in mind when cleaning your vehicle and ensure proper performance out of your towels. :)