Black F350 Paint Correction and Jet Seal

[J Ryan]

Hi,

I just got into home detailing on my cars and bought a G9 and the 3” G8 along with many chemicals and cleaners to get going.

My truck is a 2011 Black F350 that has never been really cleaned the right way, waxed but not a good cleaning.

I did the steps below and cannot believe how well it came out. Really cool to see the changes and easier than I though although it is by no means a quick process

I think the compound polish and wax took 11 hours and that is not including the prep and interior.

What I did

1. Wash with whatever auto soap I had
2. McGuire’s speed clay handle tool with car wash soap for lube
3. Iron-x (works amazing)
4. TurtleWax Bug and Tar (works so so)
5. Washed again.
6. McGuire’s Ultimate Compound needed the microfiber for the tailgate that was badly scratched, worked awesome
7. McGuire’s Ultimate Polish, worked great again
8. Applied one coat of Jet Seal, not as shiny as I though it would be


My question is the following. I initially wanted to do two coats of Jet Seal but only did one and was wondering if two was necessary.

Since I did the initial application of Jet Seal last weekend there has been rain and a lit of pollen, so I have used Chemical Guys Waterless wash and McGuire’s Ultimate Quick Detailer both of which have some sort of protectant.

If I were to do another coat of Jet Seal would I have to strip those two detailer applications?

Is it worth it?

And what is the best way?

Ideally, I would like to apply another coat of the Jet Seal and follow that with Butter Wax

Thanks, and any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.


:)

[briarpatch]

Hi,
I just got into home detailing on my cars and bought a G9 and the 3” G8 along with many chemicals and cleaners to get going. My truck is a 2011 Black F350 that has never been really cleaned the right way, waxed but not a good cleaning. So, I did the steps below and cannot believe how well it came out. Really cool to see the changes and easier than I though although it is by no means a quick process. I think the compound polish and wax took 11 hours and that is not including the prep and interior.
What I did
1. Wash with whatever auto soap I had
2. McGuire’s speed clay handle tool with car wash soap for lube
3. Iron-x (works amazing)
4. TurtleWax Bug and Tar (works so so)
5. Washed again.
6. McGuire’s Ultimate Compound needed the microfiber for the tailgate that was badly scratched, worked awesome
7. McGuire’s Ultimate Polish, worked great again
8. Applied one coat of Jet Seal, not as shiny as I though it would be
My question is the following. I initially wanted to do two coats of Jet Seal but only did one and was wondering if two was necessary. Since I did the initial application of Jet Seal last weekend there has been rain and a lit of pollen, so I have used Chemical Guys Waterless wash and McGuire’s Ultimate Quick Detailer both of which have some sort of protectant. If I were to do another coat of Jet Seal would I have to strip those two detailer applications? Is it worth it? And what is the best way? Ideally, I would like to apply another coat of the Jet Seal and follow that with Butter Wax
Thanks, and any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the forum from one Jersey guy to another. Glad you have such a good experience detailing your truck. Not to cast shade, but the Quick Detailer and the Waterless Wash added some sacrificial layers which will not last long. Additionally, neither will Jet Seal. I've used it, and in my experience, there are several sealants out there which will give you longer lasting protection. I'd say give it about a month, maybe two, and it will be all but gone from the picture. At that point, I'd say apply a quality sealant, such as Jescar Powerlock, or their new Ultra Lock, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or their SIO2 sealant (my personal favorite, and then top it with a wax of your choosing.....but not Butter Wet Wax. It lasts about two weeks. Jescar ColorLock is a better option.

Where in NJ are you? If you're not far, I have some products I could spare some samples (4oz) of, which I'd be happy to share.

[J Ryan]

I appreciate the feedback. I understand that being new to this you sometimes pick-up the wrong products and listen to the wrong reviews until you find what works best for you. I'll look into those that you suggested. What if anything should I use until I do the reseal? Pollen season is really bad right now as you know and would like to keep it clean without full washes every week.

I'm up north in Ringwood.

Thanks

[dwaleke]

Not much you can do with pollen except wash it off.

Some products seem to attract/hold on to pollen more than others.

It seems to me that carnauba waxes & synthetic sealant blends might hold on to pollen a bit more compared to a ceramic coating.

But you'll need to wash the car either way to get the pollen off.

[J Ryan]

Yeah, I get it. Do you guys recommend the foam guns? Or is that just a gimmick and just do regular correct two bucket washes? Thing is that I spent all that time getting the scratches out of the black metallic I would hate to scratch up with the washing until the existing coatings wear off and I can recoat with something more substantial.

Sorry for all the questions but starting off you need some guidance from those much more experienced.

Then onto the wife's white Audi Q7 with some scratches which already has McGuire's Hybrid Ceramic Wax applied about a month ago for a compound, polish and wax. Then the daughters black Jetta which has the same coating.

[opie]

I like to use foam cannon with my pw as a pre soak to get the heavy contaminants off b4 moving to a 2 bucket wash on detail jobs. Also use foam cannon for my personal vehicles that are still clean(dont get driven in rain) and just has pollen on it if I don't have time to do a normal bucket wash

[Rsurfer]

Welcome to the forum from one Jersey guy to another. Glad you have such a good experience detailing your truck. Not to cast shade, but the Quick Detailer and the Waterless Wash added some sacrificial layers which will not last long. Additionally, neither will Jet Seal. I've used it, and in my experience, there are several sealants out there which will give you longer lasting protection. I'd say give it about a month, maybe two, and it will be all but gone from the picture. At that point, I'd say apply a quality sealant, such as Jescar Powerlock, or their new Ultra Lock, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or their SIO2 sealant (my personal favorite, and then top it with a wax of your choosing.....but not Butter Wet Wax. It lasts about two weeks. Jescar ColorLock is a better option.

Where in NJ are you? If you're not far, I have some products I could spare some samples (4oz) of, which I'd be happy to share.

:iagree:100% A black land yacht deserves better.

[briarpatch]

I appreciate the feedback. I understand that being new to this you sometimes pick-up the wrong products and listen to the wrong reviews until you find what works best for you. I'll look into those that you suggested. What if anything should I use until I do the reseal? Pollen season is really bad right now as you know and would like to keep it clean without full washes every week.

I'm up north in Ringwood.

Thanks

PM sent

[briarpatch]

btw.....we'd like to see pictures, please

[J Ryan]

Agree, and only fair. I'll get some tomorrow.

[Paul A.]

Regarding 2 layers of LSP, I usually do when using waxes or sealants. Not so much with a coating with the exception of Gyeon CanCoat (always 2 layers).

Don't fret too much about going with a recommendation and not being thrilled. Especially if you're fairly new to the game. Shoot, that's how I learned what I like over the years.

I love my foam gun and simply use it with a rinse bucket and grit guard. Saves me a little time washing.

[J Ryan]

Some Pics of the truck a week after paint correction.

It was full of pollen so it was washed with Foam Cannon and HoneyDew foam soap which seemed to work great. All I did was rinse with a power washer and dry using Griot's Speed Shine. Too bad this probably has to be done a couple times a week this time of year.

Thanks for all the help and recommendations.

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[opie]

J Ryan great work...looks good!!!

[J Ryan]

Not sure if I should start a new thread on this but I did my daughters 2011 non-metallic black VW Jetta this weekend and man was that a whole different animal. That paint was so hard to correct and I did the best I could with what I had.

Meg's Ultimate Compound with Griot's MF pad on my D9 was the only thing that even started to get scratches out, but a ton of passes were needed. It's just crazy being new to this and dealing with different kinds of paint. I was able to make it turn out really nice but the results were not as great as my F350.

Next weekend I'm going to try an tackle my wife's white Audi Q7 and I am already second guessing my compound and pads. Good news is that I can have whatever I need shipped to me in time. I was thinking about m105, with Meg's microfiber pad and m205 with Meg's microfiber finishing pad? Paint isn't that bad but there are scratches and swirls that you can see and I might as well get at it. Reading on m105 it seems it will do the trick but short work time as it dries.

Any other recommendations?

[opie]

I was thinking about m105, with Meg's microfiber pad and m205 with Meg's microfiber finishing pad?

Any other recommendations?

Used m105/m205 many years ago...and very dusty. If you are going to use megs microfiber pads, then may i suggest megs d300. It mas made to work with those pads.

Most of the time it finishes down so well you could just right to your lsp. And best of all no dust! And wipe off is effortless. Long working times.

I would not go with megs micro finishing pad as they are made specifically for d301 finishing wax. I would go with a white lake country flat pad or similar.

I use this system as its what i started out with. It'll be on back burner when my flex comes in.