Order of operations for paint correction and Doctor Colorchip?

[undefined]

This will be my first time trying to detail a vehicle properly. The vehicle is a daily driver, and I'm not looking for perfection or show room results, I'm looking to simply clean it, address any existing problems, and protect the paint from damage. I ordered all of the equipment and consumables from AG earlier this week to do paint correction and the Doctor Colorchip kit to address road rash and rock chips in my wife's LX570.

What I am unsure about is the correct order of operations to achieve the best results.

Option 1:




Iron remover (Griot's Garage Iron & Fallout Remover 35oz)
Wash (DP Coating Prep Wash)
Clay bar (Griots Garage 6 inch Surface Prep Pad and/or Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Special)
Fix paint chips (Dr. ColorChip)
Compound (Pinnacle Black Label Compound)
Polish (Pinnacle Black Label Polish)
Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Prep Spray
Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating


Option 2:



Iron remover (Griot's Garage Iron & Fallout Remover 35oz)
Wash (DP Coating Prep Wash)
Clay bar (Griots Garage 6 inch Surface Prep Pad and/or Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Special)
Compound (Pinnacle Black Label Compound)
Polish (Pinnacle Black Label Polish)
Fix paint chips (Dr. ColorChip)
Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Prep Spray
Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating



Option 2 matches what the videos in the Doctor Colorchip review thread say to do (use DCC after paint correction), but won't all the rubbing done with SealAct cause marks that require polishing to remove?

[MisterSnoop]

You want to wait 30 days after doing Dr Colorchip before doing any polishing/compounding. I personally haven't noticed marring from using the SealAct but I have seen that comment made on another thread. I've also tweaked my methods to minimize excess paint which makes the removal SealAct step easier.

[2black1s]

Option 2 without a doubt. If you touch up prior to compounding/polishing, those steps will remove some or all of the touch up paint you just applied. If you feel the need to polish after doing the touch up work, do as MisterSnoop suggests and wait at least 30 days to allow the paint to harden.

[MisterSnoop]

The other thread:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/127838-polish-after-dr-colorchip.html

[undefined]

I think I need to get it good and clean and do the paint correction first no matter what. It has a lot of white marks on the hood (black vehicle) that I don't understand - they are not chips down to the primer, they are marks on the clear coat. Before I start adding paint, I need to see what problems remain after compounding and polishing.

If I need to go back and polish again a few weeks later, so be it. Given that this is a daily driver that is kept outside and used for off roading, some swirls or marring aren't going to be a big deal.

[MisterSnoop]

Mike did a livestream with Dr Colorchip a few months back. He offered some tips that may help and could reduce the potential need for polishing afterwards.

How to fix rock chips without having to repaint your car - YouTube (https://youtu.be/C43wX1gqfXA)

[Bruno Soares]

I normally do the touch up, then 2 weeks later do the paint correction and protection. You need some days for the paint to cure. Also, I've always had some marring in some touch up areas so there's no way I'd paint correct and then touch up knowing that would be likely to leave some marks behind that need to be polished again anyways.

[psnt1ol]

I think I need to get it good and clean and do the paint correction first no matter what. It has a lot of white marks on the hood (black vehicle) that I don't understand - they are not chips down to the primer, they are marks on the clear coat. Before I start adding paint, I need to see what problems remain after compounding and polishing.

If I need to go back and polish again a few weeks later, so be it. Given that this is a daily driver that is kept outside and used for off roading, some swirls or marring aren't going to be a big deal.

Question for you....

Are the white marks mostly by the radiator area?

[undefined]

@psnt1ol yes. They are like a light spray pattern / splatter pattern on the front of the hood.

[undefined]

Yes, those spots are near the radiator.

[psnt1ol]

Yes, those spots are near the radiator.

I seen this before but on mostly honda cars.. I have some bad news for you.

It is the early stage of clear coat failure. It is failing from bottom up cause by the heat of the radiator. If you try to compound them out, you will see even more. The best you can do is to slow down the failure process. Install a heat sheild on the hood and glaze the heck out of the hood. An AIO with heavy fill-in capability would help as well. The specks will still be there but it wouldn't be as noticeable.

[Mike Phillips]

This will be my first time trying to detail a vehicle properly. The vehicle is a daily driver, and I'm not looking for perfection or show room results, I'm looking to simply clean it, address any existing problems, and protect the paint from damage. I ordered all of the equipment and consumables from AG earlier this week to do paint correction and the Doctor Colorchip kit to address road rash and rock chips in my wife's LX570.

What I am unsure about is the correct order of operations to achieve the best results.


Option 2 matches what the videos in the Doctor Colorchip review thread say to do (use DCC after paint correction),




Sorry for the late reply, I've been a tick busy....

How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/83526-how-use-dr-colorchip-paint-chip-repair-systems.html)



My experience is this,

First - LOWER your expectations for results that will look like nothing ever happened. Results that look like nothing ever happened is call a new paint job. Problem with a new paint job is sooner or later you get teh rock chips again, now you're in a Catch-22 situation. Avoid the Catch-22 scenario and start by lowering your expectations. Then do your best work and move on with life.


Second - in my how-to article for this topic - I state to do the touch-up work after all the paint correction and even the "sealing" step, whatever you're going to use to seal the paint. I.E. wax, sealant or coating.


How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/83526-how-use-dr-colorchip-paint-chip-repair-systems.html)

In the first post...


Question

Do I do the rock chip repair first or do the paint correction, polishing and waxing first?



Answer

Probably the most common question I get about doing rock chip repair goes like this,

My car has rock chips and there's also swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation in the paint. Should I polish the paint before using the Dr. ColorChip Rock Chip Repair Kit or after I fix the rock chips?


The answer is, for most people you'll be better off to polish the paint first.



:)

[Mike Phillips]

but won't all the rubbing done with SealAct cause marks that require polishing to remove?



The SealAct is a liquid - this makes it a lubricant. The wiping cloth is soft.

It's up to you to wipe gently. Not like a caveman.


Here's the coolest thing about the Dr. ColorChip system. IF you don't like the repair - simply remove it with the SealAct. Repeat until you get it right and you're happy. Once you're done - it's a permanent repair.


DOWN THE ROAD

After you've let the touch-up paint fully dry and harden - say a few weeks, maybe a month depending upon where you live and the temperatures - then LIGHTLY polish the area and seal or re-seal.


:)