Terry or Microfiber Bonnet for machine wax removal?

[solman]

I have both Terry and microfiber bonnets I can put over a 6inch wool pad. I also have the Rupes LH 15 and the flex 3401 DA. Just wondering which will finish out the nicest. I am going to use Collinite 476 paste for the winter coat applied by one of the machines with a white 6inch foam pad. I already did the daily driver (Kia) with a microfiber bonnet on the Flex but didn't quite get the deep glow I was after so I thought maybe a Terry or finishing with the Rupes will be better. This will be on my wife's Acura and my Ford P/U.
I generally only wait about 10 minuets or so and remove the wax before it becomes very difficult to remove.
Thanks

[Rsurfer]

I have both Terry and microfiber bonnets I can put over a 6inch wool pad. I also have the Rupes LH 15 and the flex 3401 DA. Just wondering which will finish out the nicest. I am going to use Collinite 476 paste for the winter coat applied by one of the machines with a white 6inch foam pad. I already did the daily driver (Kia) with a microfiber bonnet on the Flex but didn't quite get the deep glow I was after so I thought maybe a Terry or finishing with the Rupes will be better. This will be on my wife's Acura and my Ford P/U.
I generally only wait about 10 minuets or so and remove the wax before it becomes very difficult to remove.
Thanks

First of all why not remove by hand? Second, if your having difficulty removing, you are using too much. Thin is in when applying waxes/sealants.

[Mike Phillips]

I have both Terry and microfiber bonnets I can put over a 6inch wool pad. I also have the Rupes LH 15 and the flex 3401 DA.



I've tried both of these for removing LSPs by machine and never found either of them to work well for feel comfortable to me - removing the LSP this way. That's just me though.

If I were to want to remove a wax via machine - I would use a simple 8mm free spinning random orbital polisher like you see here,

How to use a microfiber bonnet to remove dried wax by machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/29369-how-use-microfiber-bonnet-remove-dried-wax-machine.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/IndigoOnHydro02.jpg







Just wondering which will finish out the nicest.



Generally speaking, microfiber towels or bonnets, because they are softer and more gentle to scratch-sensitive paint will finish out nicer.






I am going to use Collinite 476 paste for the winter coat applied by one of the machines with a white 6 inch foam pad. I already did the daily driver (Kia) with a microfiber bonnet on the Flex but didn't quite get the deep glow I was after so I thought maybe a Terry or finishing with the Rupes will be better. This will be on my wife's Acura and my Ford P/U.



That's a fairly stout wax to try to remove with a bonnet on any machine.

At this point - might as well give the cotton terrycloth bonnet a go. You could always just do one panel like the hood and see how the results look.


I'm with Ron aka Rsurfer, I quit removing waxes and sealants years ago by machine. I like the control of working/wiping by hand, especially if I've invested a lot of time into making paint perfect.

Besides that - IF the bonnet is truly removing wax, then you'll need to clean the face of the bonnet often, remove the bonnet and use the other side, or switch to a clean bonnet.


Let us know what you end up doing.


::

[Mike Phillips]

And...


If you watch this video, Bryan Fuller and I show how to use a bonnet on a Porter Cable to remove wax by machine.

The wax removal by machine part starts at the 1:46 time mark.


https://youtu.be/7QHljvm46Ek


That guy is a hoot!


:)

[PaulMys]

I have both Terry and microfiber bonnets I can put over a 6inch wool pad. I also have the Rupes LH 15 and the flex 3401 DA. Just wondering which will finish out the nicest. I am going to use Collinite 476 paste for the winter coat applied by one of the machines with a white 6inch foam pad. I already did the daily driver (Kia) with a microfiber bonnet on the Flex but didn't quite get the deep glow I was after so I thought maybe a Terry or finishing with the Rupes will be better. This will be on my wife's Acura and my Ford P/U.
I generally only wait about 10 minuets or so and remove the wax before it becomes very difficult to remove.
Thanks

I have used 476 for years, and I agree with Ron & Mike on all points.

I will also add that waiting 10 minutes for the 476 to dry/haze is WAY too long, and will just result in headaches for removal. Unlike 845 (liquid) that you can apply to the entire vehicle and then remove with ease at any time, the 476 (paste) is a completely different animal.

For best results, I will apply the 476 to no more than half of my hood (Ram truck, so it's pretty big), and immediately go back and start to remove it where I started. (Maybe 3 minutes tops).

There is no need to let the 476 completely haze over to a dry, uniform "chalky" look. If it does, you have waited too long and have made way too much work for yourself.

:)

[solman]

I will use a microfiber and do it by hand as has been recommended. Not a big deal just being lazy I suppose.
I will try waiting just a few minuets and then remove the wax. Perhaps waiting too long is what makes it hard to remove. I thought the wax won't really come off until it dries out a bit.
Thanks

[PaulMys]

I will use a microfiber and do it by hand as has been recommended. Not a big deal just being lazy I suppose.
I will try waiting just a few minuets and then remove the wax. Perhaps waiting too long is what makes it hard to remove. I thought the wax won't really come off until it dries out a bit.
Thanks

Use a good quality MF towel like the Griot's wax removal towels, or equivalent. And I always keep a soft-buff towel in my other hand for the final wipe.


If you read your fine print on the bottom of the 476 can, it says: "As wax begins to dry/haze, polish off with a microfiber or soft cotton towel."

The key word in that directive is "begins".

Also, don't gloss over the fact that the only word in all capital letters in the description is THIN. :)

[solman]

Collinite 476 wax on my 10 year old truck
done by hand as recommended. I hope this makes it thru the winter.

[Mike Phillips]

Collinite 476 wax on my 10 year old truck




That is big and beautiful! Can't really see it being a decade old by how clean and shiny she is!


https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachments/auto-detailing-101-a/71149d1602777194-terry-microfiber-bonnet-machine-wax-removal-cb6a7580-ac20-4153-b462-59a049f172cf-jpeg



:cheers:

[Rsurfer]

That is big and beautiful! Can't really see it being a decade old by how clean and shiny she is!


https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachments/auto-detailing-101-a/71149d1602777194-terry-microfiber-bonnet-machine-wax-removal-cb6a7580-ac20-4153-b462-59a049f172cf-jpeg



:cheers:

Yeah, second that since Mike enlarged the picture.:xyxthumbs:

[solman]

Thanks, Guy's
2011 F-250
Yes, I always keep it clean and waxed and it's not my daily driver. Use it to tow my camper and as needed around town for truck errands.
After a thorough cleaning and wax job I have to even use it. :laughing:

[PaulMys]

Looks great!! :)

[MarkD51]

I'm going to turn back the hands of time 30 years, and what once worked very well for me.

A jiggle machine, the Waxcoa Waxer. I used to deal with heavy duty small batch local waxes (Nu-Look) that made Colly #476 look like WGDGPS 3.0. Good ole Frank D'Amato (deceased for 30years) used to dope his waxes to the gills. Made the best Meg's products back then look like a weak red bottle watered down detailer spray by comparison.


Looking at pics provided here, it looks to me that whatever Bonnets were stuck on a PC 7424 don't look right to me, too large. Any interference with the shroud just ain't gonna work right Same with the Jiggle Machines, the Bonnet cannot contact-touch the Shroud for good operation.

You might think I'm full of beans, but I got show car results, when working with hard to apply and remove liquid and paste waxes.
The Bonnets I used were Terry Cloth, and many I custom made myself from the softest Cannon Bath Towels.

That ole waxcoa machine would quickly apply to all major panels in a uniform way, better that I could ever do by hand, never got ghosting or streaking, and same with removal.

I never necessarily relied on such a machine to totally remove every last vestige of wax, but to merely "break up" and "cut the ####" so to speak.
Then I could more easily come behind with Beefcloth, Baby Diapers, that's what I bought and used back in the day.

Such was good enough that it kept my '67 Stingray, my '68 Camaro SS396, and many friend's rides coming out killer.

I once had an old friend, a big time Poncho lover, had some of the most beautiful GTO's and Grand Prix's and Cadillacs you ever seen. Let him look at my Stingray one day and he was floored!

There were times I'd combine waxes and glazes on application, you name it, 3M, Liquid Ebony, Megs, for a really nice 1-2 punch! Not too aggressive, yet got the job admirably done! Not a sleek to be seen under any light, and the towels falling off the car.