Small Spot of Clear Coat Failure. Should I Still Ceramic Coat The Truck?

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

Ok, So I don't have any pics yet on this one but here are some great questions for you guys. I am truly interested and grateful for any opinions and experience that you can provide.

I have a gentleman who has approached me for a detail. I'd say through our interactions we are on very good terms. I took the time to introduce him to an amazing waterless wash today as well as write down the information he needed to purchase the waterless wash, required sprayer, and Cobra Shine & Buff Waterless Wash Towels.

He lives in an apartment complex and cant wash his truck traditionally. This is what made me want to tell him about the waterless wash. I really want to help him.

I informed him that the more he acquired the better and recommended 12 - 18 towels, purchasing the 6 packs and waiting until a 20 -25% off sale.

I demonstrated all of these items and how to properly use and dilute the product, and sprayer. I thanked him for his time at least a couple if not more times and he seemed genuinely interested, and grateful for my expertise.

He wants to bring the truck, a Chevrolet, back when he gets it cleaned up so I can perform an evaluation when the truck is clean.

By this statement in my opinion he wants a precise idea of what it will take to correct the paint, and thus a precise cost. No problem.

The truck is black, and he pointed out a a small section of paint on on the rear driver's pillar that has some clear coat failure on it.

The side panels on the bed have deep scratches that likely can't be repaired. It's my opinion that I shouldn't buff on the scratches as it could likely make them grow.

I would classify this paint as, 'Condition #5 Severely Neglected' with a touch of 'Condition #11 Clearcoat Failure' on the pillar he showed me.

I've been thinking about it all day.

I have 4 packages. 2 of them are viable options. How do I best take care of the customer?

1. I can offer my one step polish package with the BF One Step topped with the BF Black Ice Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax. This would remove light swirls, and scratches, and leave behind some excellent UV protection.

2. I can offer my two step package which would include a compounding of the paint and likely the best course of action as far as correction goes. This is also my ceramic coating package.

Should I offer a two step correction and a 25% discount, performing the second step with BF One Step then Topping With Black Ice?

Should I compound, polish, then ceramic coat around the CC failure?

Should I charge for the one step polish package, compound as the first step, and then offer the next polishing step at an hourly rate of $50 bucks an hour?

Thank you for any information you can provide! :D

[ducksfan]

I would tread lightly if I was you. Buffing out any vehicle more than 7 years old is risky unless you know the model has a history of paint durability or you have good reason to believe it hasn't had a lot of sun/heat exposure.

I'm not an expert. But, my personal experience is paint becomes weakened by heat and UV over time. 'Clear coat failure' is typically the point where it's damaged to the point of disintegrating.

The problem is the surrounding paint with a lot of exposure is probably weak and nearing disintegration. Just one time polishing it could weaken it to the point that it will quickly disintegrate.

I personally wouldn't touch someone else's car with a buffer that shows signs of failure.

[Rsurfer]

Whatever he selects, be sure to get a release of liability in writing. Explain to him that the paint might be compromised and that's the reason that you can't be held liable.

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

Whatever he selects, be sure to get a release of liability in writing. Explain to him that the paint might be compromised and that's the reason that you can't be held liable.

Ok I will. Thank you for the heads up! Good points as well.

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

I would tread lightly if I was you. Buffing out any vehicle more than 7 years old is risky unless you know the model has a history of paint durability or you have good reason to believe it hasn't had a lot of sun/heat exposure.

I'm not an expert. But, my personal experience is paint becomes weakened by heat and UV over time. 'Clear coat failure' is typically the point where it's damaged to the point of disintegrating.

The problem is the surrounding paint with a lot of exposure is probably weak and nearing disintegration. Just one time polishing it could weaken it to the point that it will quickly disintegrate.

I personally wouldn't touch someone else's car with a buffer that shows signs of failure.

Great points! Thank you for the information and for your expertise!

[mc2hill]

I would recommend using an paint thickness gauge to get an idea how much clearcoat you have to work with. If I am every in doubt, I inform the customer of my concerns and just use a cleaner wax on that area.

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

I would recommend using an paint thickness gauge to get an idea how much clearcoat you have to work with. If I am every in doubt, I inform the customer of my concerns and just use a cleaner wax on that area.I think I may steer him towards my one step package if he decides to come get his truck inspection done.

As soon as I have a paint thickness gauge I'll definitely check and see how much clear coat there is. [emoji846]



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