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JoeyRoland82
09-10-2020, 06:14 AM
Hi All,

I have an all-black Explorer that has some badly faded trim pieces. Everything from the running boards to the hood cowl to even the front top interior has fallen victim to the sun. I've tried numerous products out there and even used ATF oil on the running boards as well as the heat gun out of desperation. Needless to say, the running boards are now more oxidized than ever and have turned a light grey even.

From looking through several posts, "Solution Finish" seems to pop up a lot. But I've also seen online videos and suggestions on using a ceramic coating to restore/protect the trim pieces. On another project vehicle, I removed the rear bumper pad, thoroughly prepped it and laid down a couple coats of bumper coating. The results were amazing. But I have two concerns with that: Aside from the running boards and maybe hood cowl, it's not feasible to remove all the other trim like the side mirrors and rear window hinges and roof rack. And secondly, now that it's painted, I'm not sure the best way to care for the surface.

Is there a tried and true method out there that lasts longer than a year? And is exterior care different from the interior fading? Thanks for any input!

TTQ B4U
09-10-2020, 06:39 AM
Hi All,

I have an all-black Explorer that has some badly faded trim pieces. Everything from the running boards to the hood cowl to even the front top interior has fallen victim to the sun. I've tried numerous products out there and even used ATF oil on the running boards as well as the heat gun out of desperation. Needless to say, the running boards are now more oxidized than ever and have turned a light grey even.

Yes, heat guns like that separate and draw out the oils and temporarily help make it look good enough to "send it" for sale but on a personal vehicle, it will dry them out even further.


From looking through several posts, "[COLOR=#333333]Solution Finish" seems to pop up a lot. But I've also seen online videos and suggestions on using a ceramic coating to restore/protect the trim pieces. On another project vehicle, I removed the rear bumper pad, thoroughly prepped it and laid down a couple coats of bumper coating. The results were amazing.

Solution finish is great and will bring back the dark color. My processes is to wait 2 weeks after it's applied then apply a coating such as Dlux or Q2 Trim.


But I have two concerns with that: Aside from the running boards and maybe hood cowl, it's not feasible to remove all the other trim like the side mirrors and rear window hinges and roof rack. And secondly, now that it's painted, I'm not sure the best way to care for the surface.

Small paint brush, etc. for ares that are tight. Both products will wipe off after a few minutes. Keep some small Q-Tips and solvent near by as if it smears on paint, those will be used to help remove them. It's easy but important as you don't want either to dry on the paint as it will be more difficult to clean off. I suppose you could mask off those areas first as a good precaution.


Is there a tried and true method out there that lasts longer than a year? And is exterior care different from the interior fading? Thanks for any input!

Use both like noted above and you will get great results that last. I do them for customers and they are all very happy long-term.

JoeyRoland82
09-10-2020, 03:14 PM
Whoa - thank you for taking the time to respond TTQ! i might get a 1oz bottle of that Solution Finish as a test on like just the side mirrors or something. The coating is a little up there. I wish it were just as simple as throwing some 303 on it or something. For the price of restoring the trim, I'd want to do what I can to ensure some longevity. Labor-wise, i'm down for whatever. I don't even mind taking the time to tape things off, (especially since it's my ride. If I'm going to do it, do it right).

Not to drag this out, but do you think this 2 stage approach would work with painted trim? The product I went with was SEM Bumper trim. Results were fantastic but that is a project car so the pieces - including the trim - have been housed without any exposure to the elements.

TTQ B4U
09-10-2020, 03:35 PM
Whoa - thank you for taking the time to respond TTQ! i might get a 1oz bottle of that Solution Finish as a test on like just the side mirrors or something. The coating is a little up there. I wish it were just as simple as throwing some 303 on it or something. For the price of restoring the trim, I'd want to do what I can to ensure some longevity. Labor-wise, i'm down for whatever. I don't even mind taking the time to tape things off, (especially since it's my ride. If I'm going to do it, do it right).

Not to drag this out, but do you think this 2 stage approach would work with painted trim? The product I went with was SEM Bumper trim. Results were fantastic but that is a project car so the pieces - including the trim - have been housed without any exposure to the elements.

You won't need much of the Solution finish. It's very thin and will wipe on like water. A little goes a very long way too. Coating wise, don't sweat the cost. There too, a little goes a very long way. Worth the costs. I don't flintch at the costs as I do this part-time on the side so I always have a larger size of S.F. on hand and a couple bottles of trim coating in my cabinet but still, very much worth it.

Painted trim? Post up a pick or show me what you're referencing. I'm not following what areas you're referencing. Happy to help. -tim

The Guz
09-11-2020, 12:46 AM
If a coating is out of reach WETS is a good option to apply over solution finish.

It is on BOGO at the moment

Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant, rubber trim sealant, rubber protectant, exterior trim products, metal sealer (https://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-trim-sealant.html)

JoeyRoland82
09-11-2020, 05:35 AM
Finally got images to work! This is a step pad on a rear bumper on another truck:

https://i.ibb.co/sy6zL2V/dav.jpg (https://ibb.co/qkWVbdr)



I prepped it, primed it, and put some SEM Bumper spray:

https://i.ibb.co/k3S0TPm/dav.jpg (https://ibb.co/tZJc61L)



The Explorer's runningboards are just as oxidated, (if not more), and I figure I'd hit them with the black version of the same spray. But I'm not sure if traditional protection would be the best way to go. The rest of the trim, minus maybe the cowl, is a little more involved to remove. In fairness, the rest of the trim is also not as bad.

And the Wolfgang looks waaaaay more affordable, but some of the comments mentioned it lasting only a few washes. I'm also willing to bet that was as a single stage application without hitting it with the SF first.



:)

Mike Phillips
09-11-2020, 07:44 AM
Just to chime in,


I taught a class (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/company-and-forum-news-headlines/58995-mobile-tech-expo-2013-a.html#post795590) on restoring plastic trim for Mobile Tech Expo one year - it was boring. No one care except the person with faded trim. Boring class, hated teaching it, been there, done that ain't going to do it again.


Here's an article I wrote to go with the class. Lots of product tips and techniques.

How to restore exterior black plastic trim (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/59327-how-restore-exterior-black-plastic-trim.html)





Here's the big picture - when it comes to car detailing everyone loves to polish paint. Period.


As to your faded plastic project - here is the REALLY BIG PICTURE. Nothing you do is going to last forever. The crappy plastic trim car manufactures put on all modern cars isn't going to last forever as shown [again], in yet another thread on the Internet.

Knowing this - that nothing lasts forever - the way you keep the plastic you're restoring to looking "good" you need to find a product and then use it often. Doesn't matter if it's more SEM paint, Wolfgang, Solution Finish, 303, etc, you will need to continually use the product as a part of preventative maintenance.

Otherwise - nothing lasts forever... not even you or I.


And for everyone that will read this thread into the future - when you buy a NEW CAR (or truck or?) - IF it has plastic trim - instead of doing nothing for the first few years only to wake up one morning, look at the trim and notice it's faded - don't wait. Find a product that maintains plastic trim and get into the habit of applying it to the trim NOW while the trim still looks good. Then you won't have to try to salvage 3 to 4 years down the road.

(the above was also the key point in my Power Point Presentation for my class at MTE)


Looks like you're doing great with the SEM paint. Not sure what you can put on the SEM paint to keep it looking great?



:)

JoeyRoland82
09-12-2020, 05:29 AM
Thanks Mike - and regrettably, I think I have to wholeheartedly agree with you on so many points. Until maybe a year or so ago, I was great about maintaining the trim on the Explorer. Once it was severely oxidized, I started looking for "hacks" in lieu of buying product after product. The heat gun and later ATF fluid worked wonders, but when they wore off, the results were the worst of all post-product maintenance. I think given the outcome of that SEM paint, I might hit as much as I can with it and see what sort of durability it offers. The cost isn't the cheapest or most expensive option, but the trim removal/prep is the real investment. I'm hoping the results "reset" the life of the trim but time and elements will be the real tell.

I'm still leaning towards some SF for smaller, less faded pieces. It's just a shame this is such a concern. The bumper step pad I painted is off a 99 Ford Ranger. The fenders also have some molding that needs some TLC. Fine. Fine. You step on the step pad so I can understand that need and the fender trim helps fend off common rust points. But fast-forward to now and I'm already staring at soon-to-be-faded trim all around my wife's new CR-V. Why!? If a few pieces of plastic are needed for MPG or cost cutting, that's not good engineering/ accounting. Besides the cowl, I've already looked into picking up the "chrome" trim from the Touring model just to nip this in the butt.

At any rate, thanks to all for the input. Sadly, there's no magic bullet but I'm glad that's confirmed coming from this community!

The Guz
09-12-2020, 05:31 AM
Finally got images to work! This is a step pad on a rear bumper on another truck:

https://i.ibb.co/sy6zL2V/dav.jpg (https://ibb.co/qkWVbdr)



I prepped it, primed it, and put some SEM Bumper spray:

https://i.ibb.co/k3S0TPm/dav.jpg (https://ibb.co/tZJc61L)



The Explorer's runningboards are just as oxidated, (if not more), and I figure I'd hit them with the black version of the same spray. But I'm not sure if traditional protection would be the best way to go. The rest of the trim, minus maybe the cowl, is a little more involved to remove. In fairness, the rest of the trim is also not as bad.

And the Wolfgang looks waaaaay more affordable, but some of the comments mentioned it lasting only a few washes. I'm also willing to bet that was as a single stage application without hitting it with the SF first.



:)

With proper prep it lasts more than a few washes. More like months.

Rob4092xx
09-12-2020, 01:24 PM
I have had phenomenal success with gTechniq C4 on my plastic trim. I have applied it to at least 20 cars I have owned over the past ten years and have never had an issue. The C4 has never worn off but keep in mind I put it on once per year. Try it! A little goes a very, very long ways!