Hand polishing

[Edvinac]

Hello guys!

I’m looking for some insight on my situation: so I was fixing a friend’s alfa and had to grab some parts for it and had left them on my trunk lid IN A BOX.

After messing around a bit i have saw that it left a lot of scratches on my lid through the box, go figure, boomer.

So instinctively I grabbed some polish that was laying around in my garage, wiped the trunk with alcochol and began scrubbing(polishing).

Some scratches came out, but I am left with this haziness.

Now I want to ask, could this be scratches from compound and I just need to grab some finishing polish to correct this or what?

I don’t think I managed to ruin my clear coat just with a hand? I am not really sure what polish I used because it was in a jar.

Grabbed some pictures with good light. Without any light you can’t see the haziness. Thanks!

70792


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[PaulMys]

That all depends on what product you used, and how hard you rubbed.

It is actually pretty easy to strike through clear coat with a compound or polish by hand. (Too much pressure in one concentrated area).

[Edvinac]

That all depends on what product you used, and how hard you rubbed.

It is actually pretty easy to strike through clear coat with a compound or polish by hand. (Too much pressure in one concentrated area).

I am not sure on product as stated.

Did not rub it hard(figured you don’t use too much pressure with a DA and let the product do it’s job, so followed the same principles) , but I did do a few passes.


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[PaulMys]

Are you dead set on hand polishing the black paint?

[Mike Phillips]

First - because this is your first post,

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:



Second - Hope you don't mind but I edited your post and broke up the huge chunk of text into smaller sections to make it easier for everyone to read.

How to type in a way that other people will read what you write (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/127058-how-type-way-other-people-will-read-what-you-write.html)



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's your picture,

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachments/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/70792d1598655685-hand-polishing-img_2004-jpg


For everyone that reads this into the future, if you ever doubted the most important factor when polishing paint is abrasive technology - well.... it is.


Abrasive Technology - THE most important factor when it comes to polishing paint (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2018-new-car-detailing-how-to-article-by-mike-phillips/120326-abrasive-technology-most-important-factor-when-comes-polishing-paint.html)


:)

[Mike Phillips]

That all depends on what product you used, and how hard you rubbed.







I am not sure on product as stated.




I'm curious. If you can find the product it would be interesting to know what it was.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

I'm sure I have an article on this somewhere but can't think of the title?


Here's the deal, (I type this out all the time every year),

It takes MORE skill to work on clearcoat paint by hand than it does by machine. And in this context I mean an orbital polisher - not a rotary buffer.

I could fix this scoured mess by hand. I make a video next week and how you how to do it.

It will be faster and easier and also safer to somehow get an orbital polisher, a foam buffing pad and some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound - available just about anywhere and buff the area.

Word.


:)

[Edvinac]

Are you dead set on hand polishing the black paint?

I just wanted to correct this one spot, I usually take my cars for a full polish, then try to maintain them myself.


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[Edvinac]

I'm curious. If you can find the product it would be interesting to know what it was.


:)

I got it from a detailing shop a year ago. They used to use purple 3M in the old days, not sure what they use now [emoji1]


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[Edvinac]

I'm sure I have an article on this somewhere but can't think of the title?


Here's the deal, (I type this out all the time every year),

It takes MORE skill to work on clearcoat paint by hand than it does by machine. And in this context I mean an orbital polisher - not a rotary buffer.

I could fix this scoured mess by hand. I make a video next week and how you how to do it.

It will be faster and easier and also safer to somehow get an orbital polisher, a foam buffing pad and some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound - available just about anywhere and buff the area.

Word.


:)

How and where do I find this video? And am I right saying these are scratches left by a more agressive compound?

I am just hoping it needs some finishing polish [emoji1]


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[Mike Phillips]

How and where do I find this video?




I'll need to create the video and I won't be able to get to it until next week.

And "yes" there really are no other videos you can find that show the correct way to hand apply a compound to remove swirls and scratches out of clearcoat paint.

Probably what I'll do is machine sand a black demo hood with #2000 grit sand paper and then show how to remove the sanding marks by hand. Apologies I cannot get to it today or tomorrow - just have other things to get done.

If you want to try get some ScratchX or Ultimate Polish (kind of the same thing, they are LIGHT POLISHES). You're also going to need some Ultimate Compound. Also get a quality microfiber applicator pad and also a foam applicator pad. You can find these things at most auto parts stores.

Then work the area with the Ultimate Compound and the microfiber pad and some FIRM downward pressure. I would use a straight line motion for the initial applications simply because it's easier on you to rub hard in back and forth motions versus circle motion.

After work the area with the the compound and the microfiber applicator pad and you're happy with how the paint looks. Then switch over to either ScratchX or Ultimate Polish and now use the foam applicator and repeat. I'd probably work the are pretty hard for the first application to improve the results of the compounding and then start reducing your hand pressure and polish more lightly.

Polishing paint is an art form - not a grinding process -Mike Phillips


The microfiber has more BITE than foam - that's why you start with it. The foam is less agressive than the microfiber that's why you finish with it.

Then slap some wax on the trunk lid, stick a fork in it and call it done. Moving forward, be a little more cautious with what products you choose to rub over scratch sensitive clear coats.l


If you tackle this - let us know how it goes and good luck.


It takes a LOT more skill to work on car paint by hand than it does with a modern orbital polisher.



:)

[Edvinac]

I'll need to create the video and I won't be able to get to it until next week.

And "yes" there really are no other videos you can find that show the correct way to hand apply a compound to remove swirls and scratches out of clearcoat paint.

Probably what I'll do is machine sand a black demo hood with #2000 grit sand paper and then show how to remove the sanding marks by hand. Apologies I cannot get to it today or tomorrow - just have other things to get done.

If you want to try get some ScratchX or Ultimate Polish (kind of the same thing, they are LIGHT POLISHES). You're also going to need some Ultimate Compound. Also get a quality microfiber applicator pad and also a foam applicator pad. You can find these things at most auto parts stores.

Then work the area with the Ultimate Compound and the microfiber pad and some FIRM downward pressure. I would use a straight line motion for the initial applications simply because it's easier on you to rub hard in back and forth motions versus circle motion.

After work the area with the the compound and the microfiber applicator pad and you're happy with how the paint looks. Then switch over to either ScratchX or Ultimate Polish and now use the foam applicator and repeat. I'd probably work the are pretty hard for the first application to improve the results of the compounding and then start reducing your hand pressure and polish more lightly.

Polishing paint is an art form - not a grinding process -Mike Phillips


The microfiber has more BITE than foam - that's why you start with it. The foam is less agressive than the microfiber that's why you finish with it.

Then slap some wax on the trunk lid, stick a fork in it and call it done. Moving forward, be a little more cautious with what products you choose to rub over scratch sensitive clear coats.l


If you tackle this - let us know how it goes and good luck.


It takes a LOT more skill to work on car paint by hand than it does with a modern orbital polisher.



:)

I am really gratefull to have people like you.

You don’t hesitate to explain everything. I deeply respect your knowledge sharing skills.

From my understanding ultimate polish should fix this? No need for compounding? (i am assuming I’m already pass this stage after the marks MY polish left).

Also I am guessing products you’re talking about are meguiars :) Some questions about the products themself:

Does ultimate compound and ultimate polish have any silicones in them to hide scratches?

Diffrences between swirlx and ultimate polish?


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[Mike Phillips]

From my understanding ultimate polish should fix this? No need for compounding? (i am assuming I’m already pass this stage after the marks MY polish left).



Maybe UP would work. You can try. If it's not working fast enough to level the surface and thus remove the scouring, then you could try UC. UC = Ultimate Compound.

The thing is - UC and UP both use SMAT - Super Micro Abrasive Technology - they will both feel like Jergans Hand Lotion. Very safe. The UC would work faster with lest talent. :)





Also I am guessing products you’re talking about are meguiars :)



Yes. I know a little bit about the M-Line. The red car on UC was from one of my Thursday Night classes when I worked for Meguiar's in Irvine, the black car was a BMW I did a half-n-half for the 2002 Bimmerfest.


Meguiar's Ultimate Compound History (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Ftinyurl.com%2Fy6vt3dm7)


Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and SwirlX

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/Ultimate_Compound_SwirlX.JPG





Some questions about the products themself:

Does ultimate compound and ultimate polish have any silicones in them to hide scratches?



Don't know but don't think so. Wouldn't be a concern to me. If properly worked they would remove the defects not mask them.





Diffrences between swirlx and ultimate polish?



Probably the main change was switching to the "ultimate" branding while dropping the "X" branding. Swirlx and I think ColorX are both gone now.

If you're not in a hurry - I'll make a video next week showing how to do this - heck maybe Yancy and I can make this our Thursday LIVE Detailing Class.


:)

[Edvinac]

Well to update I’ve ordered UC, UP, microf applicator, soft foam applicator and clay. Just don’t have them yet, I will update when I tackle the job.

Found some videos on youtube guiding how to use these products and always mentioning its really good in hand polishing compared to traditional pastes. We will see [emoji1]

Thanks for the answers, where can I catch you live or watch the recording? ;)


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