So close to starting

[Bearcats98]

Over the last couple months I have been collecting supplies to do my first "real" detail. My Fusion (White Platinum tricoat) will be my first to do a true DA polish and coat with SiO2 stuff from WG. I am excited and nervous at the same time as while its not a fancy car it still looks brand new outside and I am pretty proud of that being I only used OTC stuff. I am using all WG stuff except the Adams Strip Wash.

I plan to:
Adams Strip Wash
Iron Remover
Clay
Adams Strip Wash
Finishing Glaze (Six LC White)
SiO2 PS (Six LC Black)

I have a garage so I can do the work in it out of the sunlight. My only concern is the dwell time on the FeRemover. It says not to let it dry but dwell is 3-5 minutes. Its the small details like that that have me kinda edgy.

My second vehicle (provided I am not back here asking "How do I fix.....") is a Metallic Dark Gray Rav. The big "sticky" point on that is the PPF up front as in the front quarters and hood are completely wrapped. I want to use Adams strip wash (as even though Mike says polishing PPF is fine if proper process is followed; I am hesitant to do it as PPF is $$$) and emailed them and they said:

Our Strip Wash would be fine to use on PPF. We have a certified installer here, and we have done it in the past when people put wax on their PPF and get white residue in any cracks or gaps in the PPF.

I have Mikes hour long detail special bookmarked and plan to watch it a few more times prior to attempting next week (vacation). I know where I want to do my test spot (has to be roof due to new paint on hood). Does anybody have any concerns given what minimal details I have laid out?

Thanks!
-'Cats

[Big Dave]

Good luck. I'm sure you will do fine.

I remember my first full decontamination, correction and, at that time, wax. I did a half day course, spent five or six hundred on equipment and product, then spent a whole day on it. I was wrapped in the results. I'm sure you will be as well. The best part was a week later I parked outside a burger joint, and while I was inside I heard someone looking out the windows say to there friend, "wow, look at how shiny that car is". Made it all worth it.

Remember, no fear.

Dave

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

[Mike Phillips]

My only concern is the dwell time on the FeRemover. It says not to let it dry but dwell is 3-5 minutes. Its the small details like that that have me kinda edgy.




The part where companies state to NOT let an iron remover dry on the car is a general practice as it's simply a,

Good-rule-of-thumb


I've never seen paint or plastic harmed if an iron remover did dry on the surface. Blasting with water or washing with soap and water will re-liquefy it and then remove it.

I would be cautious about getting an Iron Remover around any anodized trim, like the trim you often see around the side windows. I've seen iron removers stain this type of trim.






My second vehicle (provided I am not back here asking "How do I fix.....") is a Metallic Dark Gray Rav. The big "sticky" point on that is the PPF up front as in the front quarters and hood are completely wrapped. I want to use Adams strip wash (as even though Mike says polishing PPF is fine if proper process is followed; I am hesitant to do it as PPF is $$$) and emailed them and they said:


[quote= Adams Contact Response]

Our Strip Wash would be fine to use on PPF.




I've sprayed iron removes on PPF and never seen a problem - again - rinse before it dries. If you did see any dulling, then simply machine polish the PPF. I tend to use one-step cleaner/waxes but a fine cut polish will work too.






I have Mikes hour long detail special bookmarked and plan to watch it a few more times prior to attempting next week (vacation). I know where I want to do my test spot (has to be roof due to new paint on hood).




For those reading this into the future - it's this video,


How to do a Test Spot and then buff out your car! Video Explanation by Mike Phillips (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/125930-how-do-test-spot-then-buff-out-your-car-video-explanation-mike-phillips.html)


This is my opinion is one of the best videos Yancy and I have ever made together and also one of the easiest to follow, understand and then implement the techniques video on the topic.


https://youtu.be/ulWXODgg8V4







Does anybody have any concerns given what minimal details I have laid out?

Thanks!
-'Cats



When you stated you were going to use Finishing Glaze, I'm assuming you mean the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze? Which is actually a fine cut polish?

This is a top shelf product but it is on the fine side of cutting. So do your Test Spot and make sure you're removing the paint defects to your satisfaction before buffing out the entire car.

Just yesterday (I think, may have been last week), a person on this forum posted how they buffed out their entire truck only to be disappointed in the results. There were still lots of deeper swirls and scratches left in the paint. My comment to them, besides some suggestions to fix the problem, was they should have DIALED-IN their process via the Test Spot FIRST before buffing out the entire truck.

I NEVER buff out a car without doing a Test Spot first. And thus, I'm never disappointed in the results.


You're going to do fine. I'd suggest if possible, wash the car the night before and then start early. Do the "wet work" the day before and the next day do the "dry work".



:)

[Bearcats98]

Good luck. I'm sure you will do fine.

I remember my first full decontamination, correction and, at that time, wax. I did a half day course, spent five or six hundred on equipment and product, then spent a whole day on it. I was wrapped in the results. I'm sure you will be as well. The best part was a week later I parked outside a burger joint, and while I was inside I heard someone looking out the windows say to there friend, "wow, look at how shiny that car is". Made it all worth it.

Remember, no fear.

Dave

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

Thank you for the encouragement! :-)


The part where companies state to NOT let an iron remover dry on the car is a general practice as it's simply a,

Good-rule-of-thumb


I've never seen paint or plastic harmed if an iron remover did dry on the surface. Blasting with water or washing with soap and water will re-liquefy it and then remove it.

I would be cautious about getting an Iron Remover around any anodized trim, like the trim you often see around the side windows. I've seen iron removers stain this type of trim.

I've sprayed iron removes on PPF and never seen a problem - again - rinse before it dries. If you did see any dulling, then simply machine polish the PPF. I tend to use one-step cleaner/waxes but a fine cut polish will work too.


Thanks for the heads up! I do have that type of trim around my windows. Will painters tape (Planned to tape it anyway) protect it? Or should I have a wipe rag with detailer on it to immediately wipe it off the tape? Just blue 3m Painters tape.



When you stated you were going to use Finishing Glaze, I'm assuming you mean the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze? Which is actually a fine cut polish?

This is a top shelf product but it is on the fine side of cutting. So do your Test Spot and make sure you're removing the paint defects to your satisfaction before buffing out the entire car.

Just yesterday (I think, may have been last week), a person on this forum posted how they buffed out their entire truck only to be disappointed in the results. There were still lots of deeper swirls and scratches left in the paint. My comment to them, besides some suggestions to fix the problem, was they should have DIALED-IN their process via the Test Spot FIRST before buffing out the entire truck.

I NEVER buff out a car without doing a Test Spot first. And thus, I'm never disappointed in the results.

You're going to do fine. I'd suggest if possible, wash the car the night before and then start early. Do the "wet work" the day before and the next day do the "dry work".
:)

Yes, you mentioned in some of your videos/threads that WGFG is more of a fine polish versus a glaze. I believe (in my rookie evaluation of my paint) that my paint defects are very low. You preach remove as little as humanly possible. This was my tolerance point to start with. If I need more I will wait until after summer to attempt it again.

Thanks for the thought about doing wet one day and dry another to break up the process. Makes good sense as I will not need to move the car for a few days doing this. Allows me more time to take my time. :D

In case anybody is reading it. Test spot! Make sure you know what it is and why Mike constantly recommends doing it! :laughing:



For those reading this into the future - it's this video,

How to do a Test Spot and then buff out your car! Video Explanation by Mike Phillips (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/125930-how-do-test-spot-then-buff-out-your-car-video-explanation-mike-phillips.html)

This is my opinion is one of the best videos Yancy and I have ever made together and also one of the easiest to follow, understand and then implement the techniques video on the topic.


https://youtu.be/ulWXODgg8V4

I would totally agree. There are lots of detailed videos out there...but this takes you through all the steps in an efficient manner. Its why I book marked it!

Thanks, as always for your help and guidance.