Review: Dr Beasley's Nano Surface Primers and 1201 Paint Coating - 1947 Dodge Panel Delivery Streetrod

[Mike Phillips]

Review: Dr Beasley's Nano Surface Primers and 1201 Paint Coating - 1947 Dodge Panel Delivery Streetrod (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/126329-review-dr-beasleys-nano-surface-primers-1201-paint-coating-1947-dodge-panel-delivery-streetrod.html)



First I'd like to say a shout out to Jim Lafeber, the man behind Dr. Beasley's detailing products. I came into my office one morning and found a box from Dr. Beasley's. I open it up and inside are his brand new Nano Surface Primers!


Dr Beasley's Nano Surface Primers and 1201 Paint Coating

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/Dr_B_Nano_Surface_Primers_002.JPG



Thanks Jim and team!




My test car is a 1947 Dodge Panel Delivery Streetrod.

This is the before condition. Looks good under florescent lights but what you cannot see are all the Machine Sanding Marks and Holograms in the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_001.JPG




Closer Inspection

This is the section around where the wiper arms would normally be in front of the windshield - the swirl level here is low compared to the rest of the body panels.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_003.JPG



This is a frame-up shot to show you where I'm going to focus into. The overhead florescent lights do a better job of showing the sanding marks than the swirl finder light.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_004.JPG




These are machine sanding marks

You can also see the hills and valleys that are known as ORANGE PEEL. The tops of the hills are dull (sanded), and the valleys are un-touched.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_005.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_006.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_007.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_008.JPG




There are both machine sanding marks and holograms throughout all the body panels like shown here...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_009.JPG




You can see the swirls but the metallic flakes are acting like tiny mirrors and blowing out the picture.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4010/1946_Dodge_Panel_010.JPG





The good

It's a fairly well-built streetrod with a small block Chevy engine, Turbo 350 automatic transmission, independent front suspension and disc brakes. I took her for a spin around the block, she runs and drives nice.


The bad and the ugly

There are DA machine sanding marks throughout the paint everywhere and holograms to go with them. And a pretty good supply of your basic swirls and scratches. So this will be a great real-world test of the brand new ABRASIVE TECHNOLOGY from Dr. Beasley's.



Abrasive Technology - THE most important factor when it comes to polishing paint

Anyone that has read any of my posts on this forum for the last 10 years knows I talk a LOT about abrasive technology. In my opinion and my experience - IT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR WHEN IT COMES TO POLISHING PAINT. So it's a BIG DEAL when any company launches a a brand new line of compounds, polishes and all-in-one products an then asks me to test them.



The Mike Phillips BLACK PAINT Test

I'm not going to write a review or test a product that I would not use on my own car or black paint. I test every new compound, polish or all-in-one on black paint. If it works on black paint it will work on any color. If it won't work on black paint it won't work on any color.

Here's one of our demo-hoods. My buddy Paul Grasso of Grasso Garage paints these for us. I've been using Paul for the last 8+ years to paint our demo hoods and I'm pretty familiar with the paint system they use at their shop. I'd say the clears they spray are on the medium side of the soft/paint hard/paint spectrum. This is where you want your car's paint, not too soft and not too hard. It also enables me to tell if a compound, polish or AIO, (AIO is a cleaner/wax), works or if it doesn't work. If one of these categories of products doesn't work that means it may remove defects but it's leaving it's own defects in their place and when you're using an orbital polisher this means micro-marring.


Black Demo Hood

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_000.JPG


This stuff works!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_039.JPG




Dr. Beasley's new Nano Surface Primers PASSED the Mike Phillips Black Paint Test

After his three new product passed my black paint test, I had the confidence to use them on some other guy's streetrod. The hood had a lot of swirls and deeper RIDS or Random Isolated Deeper Scratches. In order to remove these to my satisfaction and to the level that any streetrod deserves, I cut the hood and front fenders using the NSP 150 - this is the heavy cutting product in this new line of products, you can think of it as a compound.



The Paint Correction Step

Here I'm using the NSP 150, a Lake Country 6.5" Orange Foam Cutting Pad and the BEAST!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_002.JPG




Here's you can easily see a film of NSP 150 on the paint surface.

This compound has a super long buffing cycle and zero dusting. It's also very easy to wipe-off.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_003.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_004.JPG



Wipey, wipey....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_005.JPG




AND BOOM! A totally clear looking finish! (with easy wipe-off too)

No haze, no micro-marring and the majority of RIDS are gone. I hit the tops of the hood a second time with fresh cutting pads to get the paint to where I was happy.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_006.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_007.JPG




Here's the front clip after compounding. I think the average person would think I just wiped off a show car wax.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_008.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_009.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_010.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_011.JPG




Finishing Step

Next up I re-polished using the NSP 45 and a soft foam finishing pad. While the results looked great after the NSP 150 I"m doing SHOW CAR WORK - not production detailing on a 4-door Honda. So I always chase the heavy correction step with a much less aggressive finishing step. If for no other reason - to make sure the aggressive cutting pad doesn't leave any pad haze behind.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_012.JPG




The product have a unique look. Not 100% creamy like most compounds and polishes but there's also no gritty feel to them.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_013.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_014.JPG




Here's the front clip re-polished....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_015.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_016.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_017.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_018.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_019.JPG




And hard to see in these iPhone camera shots but the clear layer of paint is even crisper, cleaner and more perfect.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_020.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_021.JPG




Now here's the COOL part!

After using the Dr. Beasley's Nano Surface Primers and wipe off the residue - you can go straight to installing your favorite ceramic paint coating.

What does this mean?

It means you skip the pesky, time-consuming step of using some form of PANEL WIPE to chemically strip the paint. And this is important because like I've been saying for years now, wiping down scratch-sensitive paint that you just spent HOURS perfecting with a panel wipe or SOLVENT has the potential for leaving wiping marks in the paint. This is because most panel wipes are not great lubricants. Couple this with lack-luster technique and scrappy microfiber towels and you have a recipe for undoing all your hard work.

Nope - with Dr. Beasley's NSPs you can go right to the coating installation step.



Dr. Beasley's 1201 Paint Coating

For this old 2-door Dodge, I'm going to install the Dr. Beasley's 1201 Paint Coating.

Step 1: Mist a little distilled water onto a panel or section of a panel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_06.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_07.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_08.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_09.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_10.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_11.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_12.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4011/aDr_Beasleys_1201_13.JPG



Then simply move around the vehicle repeating the process.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_022.JPG






This is just to show you how much water I sprayed onto the finish. You don't need a lot - this isn't a waterless wash.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_024.JPG






Spread the 1201 Paint Coating over the water misted surface....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_026.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_027.JPG




Immediately wipe off the residue using a clean, microfiber towel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_028.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_029.JPG




Here's the final results....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_031.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_032.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_033.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_034.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_035.JPG





Review

Nano Surface Primers

When people think of compounds and polishes, I think it's safe to say there's a number of brand names that come up for companies normally known as manufacturers of this category of product. For example,


Meguiar's
3M
Menzerna



There are more, but I think we can all agree that these three companies for sure, are recognized names for companies known for making compounds and polishes.

Dr. Beasley's? Not so much. When I think of Dr. Beasley's, my first thoughts are the products that they are most known for and that is their Matte products even though they make a lot of wonderful products. But my brain does not automatically make the compound connection when thinking of Dr. Beasley's.

This is why, when Jim told me a year or so ago, while teaching one of my Roadshow Classes (https://www.autogeek.net/detail-classes.html) at his facility in Chicago that he was working on a new abrasive technology, of course my curiosity was piqued.


Pictures: Chicago Roadshow Class at Simon's Shine Shop aka Dr. Beasley's (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-2-day-roadshow-car-detailing-classes/121248-pictures-chicago-roadshow-class-simons-shine-shop-aka-dr-beasleys.html)

Here's just 2 of 10 cars this class detailed.



A black Rolls Royce

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/6ab8e12e942e83183cf2ee5f74b6c8ac.jpg



A black Ford Raptor

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/32c8c4a8fe5d60750f71df901831fabd.jpg


Class Shot

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181019/3dfcf2aaeffcc761c44f87625f214a60.jpg



Among all other detailers in the world, I'm going to guess I talk about and write about the topic of ABRASIVE TECHNOLOGY more than anyone else. As I state in this article,

Abrasive Technology - THE most important factor when it comes to polishing paint (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2018-new-car-detailing-how-to-article-by-mike-phillips/120326-abrasive-technology-most-important-factor-when-comes-polishing-paint.html)


So in my opinion and experience, the most important factor when it comes to polishing paint is the abrasive technology. And from what I've seen, this is where most companies that offer a complete line of detailing products, tend to fall down, or lack great abrasive technology for their compounds, polishes and cleaner/waxes or AIOs.

So when any company decides to take the LEAP and jump into making this category of products to add to their line, it's in my opinion, a HUGE risk because like I always say, these types of products either work, or they don't. There is no grey area.

Well I'm happy to say, Dr. Beasley's new line of NSP products WORK! I'd even say Jim has hit a home run with this new line of products. I used each one of these new products with the FLEX BEAST, the FLEX PiXiE and the RUPES Nano in rotary mode and they performed flawlessly which each tool and also each pad I chose to use with each tool.

They have a long buffing cycle, no dusting that I remember, easy wipe-off and show car results. And best of all, after wiping off any residues, you can go straight to your choice of paint coating.

Jim also kept it simple, which in my experience is always best when it comes to car detailing products. There are three products in the new NSP line-up.


In order of the most aggressive to the least aggressive,


NSP 150 Heavy Cut Primer <-- Heavy or aggressive cut

NSP 95 Nano Surface Primer <--Medium Cut

NSP 45 Finishing Primer <-- Fine Cut


This enables you to do a Test Spot on any car you're working on starting with the least aggressive Nano Surface Primer and then working your way to the more aggressive products until you dial-in the perfect paint correction process for the specific paint and paint defects you're trying to remove.


1201 Paint Coating

If you've never used this coating, it's unique to the market in that you can apply it over darn near anything for protection but also without the fear of staining or turning white. For example, if you're applying the coating onto paint that is near plastic trim, if you get some of the coating onto the trim it's no problem. It will wipe right off and if you don't get it wiped off, it won't turn white and leave the trim stained like a conventional wax or sealant.

Jim also likes to share that this coating can be used on cars that have had their paint corrected and polished OR - if you don't have time to do the paint correction step, simply wash and dry, clay if needed and then apply the coating. You'll get all the benefits of the coating without all the time and labor invested into the polishing step.





On Autogeek.com


Dr. Beasley’s NSP 150 Heavy Cut Primer (https://www.autogeek.net/db-nsp-150-heavy-cut-primer.html)

Dr. Beasley’s NSP 95 Nano Surface Primer (https://www.autogeek.net/db-nano-surface-primer.html)

Dr. Beasley’s NSP 45 Finishing Primer (https://www.autogeek.net/db-nsp-45-finishing-primer.html)




And if you need links to three of my favorite tools....


The BEAST (https://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html)

The PiXiE (https://www.autogeek.net/flex-pxe-80-12v-ec-kit.html)

The RUPES Nano Long Neck Systainer Case Kit (https://www.autogeek.net/ibrid-nano-long-neck-premium-kit.html)



And pads for the BEAST

Lake Country 6.5" Force Hybrid Pads for the BEAST (http://Lake Country Hybrid Power Finish 6.5 Inch Pads)




:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....




Here's everything I used...

NSP 150 with LC Force Hybrid Orange Foam Cutting Pads for removing sanding marks and the front clip.

NSP 95 with the LC Force Hybrid Orange Foam Cutting Pads for removing holograms where there were no sanding marks.

NSP 45 with the LC Force Hybrid Black Foam Finishing Pads - I used these for a second step polishing step anywhere I used the foam cutting pads to ensure no pad haze.

Distilled water and Dr. Beasley's 1201 Paint Coating.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_001.jpg



Tools used

I find myself using these three tools more and more as my normal tool selection for most car detailing projects.

FLEX XC 3401 VRG - The original BEAST - Why? Because it's the fastest tool for me to remove paint defects without inducing holograms and consistently putting out pro quality results.

FLEX PiXiE - I love how this too is able to maintain pad rotation when using the 12mm drive unit.

RUPES Nano Long Neck - I use this in rotary mode for doing edge work.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_041.JPG




Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Towels

I like these towels for 2 reasons

1: They have a flat weave, which means they are less likely to become contaminated as compared to a large fluffy weave.

2: They work great.

Your choice for towels shouldn't be any more complicated than these two reasons.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_042.JPG






:)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's a couple of parting shots....


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_036.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/4014/NSP_037.JPG



Cool streetrod.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

More,


Here are some recent articles that will share more info about these new NSP products from Dr. Beasley's.


Correction Protection: How NSPs “Cut & Cover” (https://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2020/04/11/correction-protection-how-nsps-cut-cover/)


Primer or Polish: Defining Nano Surface Primers (http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2020/04/15/primer-or-polish-defining-nano-surface-primers/)


5 Ways To Maintain Ceramic Coatings & Make Ceramic Coatings Last Longer (https://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2020/04/23/maintain-ceramic-coatings-make-ceramic-coatings-last-longer/)


Worried About Over-polishing? NSPs Can Help (https://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2020/04/21/worried-about-overpolishing-nsps-can-help/)




The author of the above articles is Victor Espeland. He's staff member of Dr. Beasley's and also a graduate of my 2-Day Roadshow Class plus a great writer!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181020/4a6d2c4ecad8d32304390aa2b7e7e12f.jpg




:)

[john b]

looks like a nice system, thanks

[Mike Phillips]

looks like a nice system, thanks




Thanks for commenting John.

The new Nano Surface Primers are really nice. I used up ALL of the 150 Heavy Cut on the front clip as it had a lot of RIDS on the hood and fenders.

I still have about half a tube of the 90 and 45. I'm looking forward to testing them out on something else in the future.

Like I sated in the review, for Jim and his team to come out with really nice abrasive technology for their first entrances into the compound and polish market - they did it right.


:dblthumb2:

[Dr Oldz]

Looks awesome, Mike. Nice system also. The above links are rather interesting reads for sure.

I like that the coating has no cure time.. it can be sent right out in the rain with no trouble. That’s nice for when you have to return a vehicle to someone with potential rainy weather....no worries!!!

I only ever used one Dr Beasleys product and it was their traditional paste Nuba which is no longer available. It is a great wax tho! I may try this coating and system out!

Interesting containment for the compound and polishes.....


PS Mike was this the vehicle you were supposed to try the UDOS on? I saw the Beast doing the work........???

[briarpatch]

Love the looks of this system.....been looking for a coating that a first-timer can try without fear

[Mike Phillips]

Looks awesome, Mike. Nice system also. The above links are rather interesting reads for sure.



I agree.

As for the links for more info about this new abrasive technology, I believe Jim Lafeber is one of the original founding members of the IDA and I point this out because he understands that education is key to success for anyone trying to make it as a detailer in our industry.

And this is one reason he and his staff take the extra time to write and share the educational articles about this new abrasive technology. He could have just launched the products and crossed his fingers but instead, he took the pro-active step to also provide information about his new abrasive technology. This is a great example of the win/win philosophy because providing the education aspect helps to insure anyone using these product will be successful. And of course, user success leads to word-of-mouth advertising and I think most of us have come to learn, the best form of advertising is word-of-mouth advertising. The modern version of WOM advertising are Influencers on social media. Same idea with a new century twist.






I like that the coating has no cure time.. it can be sent right out in the rain with no trouble. That’s nice for when you have to return a vehicle to someone with potential rainy weather....no worries!!!



Agreed. That said, I do think that anytime any product can be left un-disturbed for a window of time is better than no window of time.






I only ever used one Dr Beasley's product and it was their traditional paste Nuba which is no longer available. It is a great wax tho! I may try this coating and system out!



I remember that wax. I also remember talking with Jim about this and with the advent of new coating technology, he made the corporate decision that moving forward they would put their R&D into the new technologies in chemistry and let the traditional products fall by the wayside. I've seen other companies follow this path also but I knot, (not think), that there will always be a time, place and market for traditional waxes and sealants.






Interesting containment for the compound and polishes.....



Next time I talk to Jim I'll ask him why he chose to go with the squeeze tube over a bottle. I'm sure there's a reason. I remember when Meguiar's first launched ScratchX, they put it in a squeeze tube. Their reason at the time was because there was a competing product in the retail market targeting people that only wanted to remove a scratch or scuff out of their car's paint and this product was sold in a tube. So it was a pure marketing reason. Just a little Car Wax History. :)






PS Mike was this the vehicle you were supposed to try the UDOS on? I saw the Beast doing the work........???



That was my plan and in fact, I did buff out the entire roof using the Dr. Beasley's Nano Surface Primer 95 with the UDOS foam polishing pad. After polishing and then coating the roof with the 1201, (for a lot of vehicles I knocked out the roof from start to finish just to be done with it and put away the work platforms), I then started in polishing the sides of the 1946 Dodge. I ran into a technical glitch and instead of finishing out the project they had me ship it back to them for tweaking. This was not a production unit, so it was important to them to get the tool back so the engineer could inspect it in the condition it was in.


After that, truth is I'm not only always busy, (I know we all are), but I simply cannot stay caught up with my job duties. I have more product to test and write how-to articles and reviews for than there is time to do the work. Because this is a large vehicle and the hood was really scratched up pretty bad, I switched over to the BEAST to as like to say, plow through it and it still took a long time. Lots of real-estate and curved body panels.

For what it's worth, I really liked this streetrod. Our Condo Association would never it in the community as they have a strict "no trucks" rule. This is one of the reasons why a few years ago I sold my 1987 Silverado (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/Wayne_Carine_Mike_Phillips_1987_Silverado.jpg).

I'm happy to say they do allow Jeeps, so sometime in the future, I'll be swapping out the Lexus RX350, which has been a great Airport Car for when I travel, to a Jeep.



Nice comments Jim, thank you for asking.



:dblthumb2:

[Mike Phillips]

:bump:

Shared here,

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/126780-gm-cayenne-metallic-2.html#post1689393


:)

[TMQ]

Looking to add Dr Beasley to my polishing systems.

Can't wait for the Z1 to get here!

Tom