Captains coating over Awlcraft

[capt tom]

Hello, I have a 23' Sea Hunt that I am interested in using the Captains coating on.

The hull sides are awlcraft from rub rail to just above the water line, is this product safe to use on Awlcraft?

I assume that it should be fine but want to make sure.

Also, how does it perform under the waterline? The boat is kept on the trailer but we have brown water and the tannins stain over time.

Any advice is appreciated.

68714



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Tom,

The Captain's Coating is safe on Awlgrip and other specialty marine paints. It's formulated for gel-coat, which is more porous than marine paints so it will or at least should bond better and thus last longer.

It's the porosity of gel-coat that makes it more difficult for anything to last be it a wax, sealant or ceramic coating. That and marine environments are more harsh on everything as compared to land environments.

I'd say go for it. Be sure to wash the Awlgrip really well first and then wipe the Awlgrip down using the Marine 31 Gel Coat Prep Spray first.

See my review here and most of my reviews are also how-to articles for the product being showcased.


Review: Marine 31 Gel Coat Prep Spray & Captain’s Boat Coating with UV50 (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/123433-review-marine-31-gel-coat-prep-spray-captain-s-boat-coating-uv50.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3854/Marine_31_Gel_Coat_Prep_Spray_01.JPG




:)

[Mike Phillips]

Question....


Where are you and/or the boat located?



:)

[capt tom]

Thanks Mike, I am on the Mississippi gulf coast. We get a lot of staining and most people use oxalic acid to To remove but don’t follow up with polish and wax or sealant. Anyway I work well with polish and wax but I am hoping that captains coding will work well below the waterline.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike, I am on the Mississippi gulf coast. We get a lot of staining and most people use oxalic acid to To remove but don’t follow up with polish and wax or sealant. Anyway I work well with polish and wax but I am hoping that captains coding will work well below the waterline.



Please update us.

:)

[capt tom]

Hey Mike, I have a question. Can I use a rotary buffer with the M31 one step polish wax? if so, what RPM? I have foam finish pads and yellow 3M synthetic pads. I usually will compound, polish then wax but want to give an all in one a shot but do not have a DA. Thanks!

[Mike Phillips]

Hey Mike, I have a question. Can I use a rotary buffer with the M31 one step polish wax?



Yes you can but anytime you start and finish with a rotary buffer ONLY you will impart holograms into the surface. Even with a foam pad.

I am the ONLY guy in the car and boat detailing industry that has this article,


Holograms in gel-coat boats by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/marine-31-boat-detailing-classes/79440-holograms-gel-coat-boats-mike-phillips.html)

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/523/ShearWater_004c.jpg



I'd recommend reading it before you take a rotary to your boat. My boat detailing classes are hyper-focused on UNDOING the damage done to boats from the boat detailing industry, which is predominantly a rotary-only industry.

Me? I wouldn't do it and I specifically wouldn't do it to a Marine Specialty Paint like Awlgrip. My tool of choice would be ANY random orbital polisher. Heck even a Porter Cable would work and keep the process safe.


Also - anytime you or anyone else uses any type or brand of one-step product, that is a product that cleans, polishes and protects - you have just locked yourself out of using ANY type or brand of ceramic coating. The surface to be coated MUST be naked, as in zero wax.

So you can go with a one-step or you can go with a polish/chemical stripping/coating, but you cannot do both.







I usually will compound, polish then wax but want to give an all in one a shot but do not have a DA.

Thanks!




Not this weekend but next weekend I'm teaching 8 classes at Mobile Tech Expo, working on the power points today and the rest of the week. Takes a long time to create a power point presentation that actually "helps" someone figure out what to do when they get back home to their garage, driveway or boat dock.

Half of my classes have to do with polishers and the polishing process. In my presentation I will tell people,


One of the most common questions I get asked is,


Mike, which polisher should I buy?



My answer is ALWAYS the same. Let me re-phrase your question,


Mike, which polisher should I buy first?


It's always about using the right tool for the job. I'm not going to tell you how to spend your money, but if I had a boat that I enjoyed and wanted to take care of, I would budge for an orbital polisher. There are so many options on the market today that you're only restriction IS your budget.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

I'll through this out there, again, don't know your budget,

50% of the people that take my boat detailing classes are NOT boat detailers but simply boat OWNERS that want to learn how to work on thier own boat. I am the ONLY guy on Planet Earth that teaches a REAL boat detailing class.

By the word REAL - I mean I bring in 2 boats in absolutely HORRIBLE condition and teach my class how to restore them to BETTER THAN NEW on the inside and outside. By the time you're done taking the class, not only will you know exactly how to apply a ceramic coating you'll also know which tools you LOVE and which tools you don't want to buy as I cover ALL the major tools on the market.

If you go to a brand specific class, you will only get to use one brand of tool.


Here's info about the class,

2020 Boat Detailing Class - Dates and Info (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/boat-detailing-classes-dates-and-info/123776-2020-boat-detailing-class-dates-info.html)

And I get all types of people. Young guys, old guys and yes, girls and ladies too....


Here's Lindsey MACHINE SANDING with the BEAST aka the FLEX 3401

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3613/2018_Boat_Class_0083.JPG



:)

[capt tom]

Thank you for your quick reply. The boat with the Awlcraft paint is the one that I plan to use the ceramic on. I have another customers boat that I am planning on using the all in one on.

I have been on the fence about getting a DA because I know if I get one I’m gonna have to get a good one I’ve learned the hard way that getting the right tools to begin with is always best. Thanks for posting the article, it is very informative and convincing.

My buddy Byron is in the same building as you guys down in Stuart I wanted to come to your class but my schedule here did not work out.

[capt tom]

Thanks again for all the information, I am about to make my order and want to make sure I have everything straight. I plan on using the purple foamed wool pad on the DA with the all in one for boat 1. For boat 2, which pad would you recommend on the DA for final polish on the gelcoat and the awlcraft before the ceramic coating?

Thank you

[Mike Phillips]

I plan on using the purple foamed wool pad on the DA with the all in one for boat



Which DA polisher are you using?

AND - what size backing plate does it have?


:)

[capt tom]

Not sure which brand, researching now. I am thinking 6" something in the 150-200 range for my first one to get my feet wet. Maybe Griots, Please let me know what you recommend. Thanks

[Mike Phillips]

Not sure which brand, researching now. I am thinking 6" something in the 150-200 range for my first one to get my feet wet. Maybe Griots,

Please let me know what you recommend. Thanks




I think the best entry level orbital polisher is the Griot's G9 hands down.

It has the most power, great build quality and also a great warranty.

My personal preference for orbitals for boats is the gear-driven BEAST or Supa BEAST, but that's also in the $450.00 range. So if you want to stick with a less costly option, go with the Griot's G9.


The G9 comes with a 6" backing plate, my recommendation for car detailing is to spend the $20 bucks and get the 5" backing plate but for large flat surfaces like the sides of a boat hull the 6" backing plate will work fine. Plus you can always get a 3" backing plate for the G9 and then use 3.5 and 4" pads for smaller, thinner more intricate areas. A very versatile tool.

As far as pads go there's lots of good options, but the condition of the gel-coat is the big factor.

For heavy oxidation - using a one-step cleaner/wax, then go with these, one is for the 5" backing plate the other for the 6" backing plate that comes on the G9

6 inch RUPES Coarse Wool Polishing Pad (https://www.autogeek.net/rupes-coarse-wool-6inch.html)

7 inch RUPES Coarse Wool Polishing Pad (https://www.autogeek.net/rupes-coarse-wool-7inch-pad.html)



For light oxidation, I'd probably still go with the above but you could also try the RUPES blue foam coarse cutting pads. I show these in my boat detailing classes for polishing after compounding with a wool pad on a rotary.


Rupes Foam Pads, rupes polishing foam (https://www.autogeek.net/rupes-foam-pads.html)



And here's the deal, it's something I talk about all the time, if you're new here you might not know, but when buffing out ANYTHING more pads is better. Especially if you go with foam pads. As you work around a boat or car the foam will become saturated and then it will become soft. When this happens you're just wasting your time.

With a fiber pad, there's a LOT less foam backing to become wet and they are THINNER so even when they do become wet or saturated with product, they will still cut and rotate well.


Kind of have to experiment and see what combo works best with your product choice.

Both the one-step products in the Marine 31 line work great. For medium to heavy oxidation go with the heavy cut cleaner wax.

Marine 31 Gel Coat Heavy-Cut Cleaner Wax, boat cleaner wax, gel coat cleaner wax (https://www.autogeek.net/m31-241.html)


For light oxidation and to maintain a gel-coat boat, go with the all-in-one gel coat polish and wax. (both are cleaner/waxes)

Marine 31 All-In-One Gel Coat Polish and Wax, boat cleaner wax, boat polish and wax (https://www.autogeek.net/m31-231.html)


Lots to learn about doing one-steps when it comes to boats and cars. Here's a tip,

If working on moderate to heavy oxidation then use the product heavy or wet. If working on light oxidation or for maintenance, you can reduce the amount of product you use. Basically, you use a one-step or AIO like a compound. Don't believe anyone that says,

Apply 3 Pea Sized drops


Absolute newbism


Hope that helps.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

For anyone reading this thread into the future,

I'm the only one on Planet Earth that can actually create a thread like this one,

Boat Detailing Training - Before & After Pictures - The MOST DOCUMENTED HANDS-ON Boat Detailing Classes - Autogeek - Stuart, Florida (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2-day-boat-detailing-classes-info-and-dates/125279-boat-detailing-training-before-after-pictures-most-documented-hands-boat-detailing-classes-autogeek-stuart-florida.html)


Because I'm the only one that teaches REAL hand-on boat detailing classes AND knows how to make pictures magically show up on a forum.


:laughing:

[capt tom]

Hi Mike,

I have been working on the 23 foot sea hunt and it is coming along nicely. I sure wish that I could have made your class last week, the pictures look great. I appreciate the advice on using the DA over the rotary for the final polish, I did a couple of test spots and the difference is huge.

I wanted to get your thoughts on using the captains coating on the vinyl seating and non-skid and if you have any advice for either one. Also, is it OK to do a second coat?

Thanks

It may hurt your neck to look at this picture but I don’t know how to fix it

68779


EDIT: I've fixed the picture and "inserted" it. -Mike

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/capntom_01.jpg


:)