Hey Mike Phillips...

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Happy New Year! I have a 2010 White Toyota Corolla this weekend. It has not been driven much, but sat outside most of the time. Never been detailed. It's oxidized for sure, could barely see my inspection light in the paint. It's a "for sale" detail. Question, after a good wash and iron remover(if even that), would YOU clay the paint, or go straight to machine polishing with an AIO? I have the time, but don't want to waste it on claying if it's not necessary. Goal is to bring back the shine and gloss.

[Mike Phillips]

Happy New Year!



Happy New Year to you.






I have a 2010 White Toyota Corolla this weekend. It has not been driven much, but sat outside most of the time. Never been detailed. It's oxidized for sure, could barely see my inspection light in the paint.

It's a "for sale" detail.

Question, after a good wash and iron remover(if even that), would YOU clay the paint, or go straight to machine polishing with an AIO?

I have the time, but don't want to waste it on claying if it's not necessary.

Goal is to bring back the shine and gloss.





Good question.

The common sense answer is to just do a slam job on it, get your pay and move on. Is this single stage paint? I know Toyota is one of the few, if only car manufacturers, that still uses a single stage urethane for their white colored vehicles.


Here's the deal, someone like you washing and machine polishing with an AIO like 3D Speed, BF One Step or Meguiar's Polishing Wax, is going to do a visual miracle to the paint. I have no doubt about it. Polish the glass while your at it and dress the tires and the car will look like new again.

For the person selling it and the future new owner, it's likely they will think you painted the car they will be so impressed. The majority of people on Earth only look at their car as transportation, so if it's this type of person that buys the car they won't know what the Baggie Test is so they won't even think to do it to the shiny paint you create.

So if you want to keep if fast, keep it simple and as profitable as possible then skip the claying.

Me?

I would wash the car thoroughly and then while it's still wet, run a Nanoskin Towel or Mitt over the paint and glass and then rinse and move forward. It won't take that much more time. It shouldn't cause enough wear to your mitt or towel to be a concern and you'll definitely amp up the gloss. If the paint is oxidized single stage paint, the dead paint will come off and load up your clay. If you use a clay towel or mitt, the dead oxidized paint will come off and onto the rubber surface but you can clean this off.



One of my favorite articles....


Gloss starts first with a smooth surface... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/43190-gloss-starts-first-smooth-surface.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford50.jpg




Either way, I'm sure the car will look fast-sell ready when you're done.

Would like to see a few before and after pictures if you can swing it.

:)

[Mike Phillips]

I would not recommend this technique to most people.

And NEVER for a clearcoated car. But for oxidized single stage paint, on a car you don't care about, it does work.


The COMET Technique by Mike Phillips - 1965 Cadillac - Original Single Stage Paint - Slam job by Mike Phillips (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/120124-comet-technique-mike-phillips-1965-cadillac-original-single-stage-paint-slam-job-mike-phillips.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3726/1965_Caddy_018.JPG



:)

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Fantastic answer as usual, hence, why I asked you. The thought of SS paint crossed my mind. I’m not sure, but I have a feeling it is. I like the idea of quickly hitting it with my clay towel after washing, as there will be that much less residue to build up on the pad. Funny you mentioned those three AIO’s. Those are the exact three I have lined up for test spots! That yellow truck is glowing!! I had never heard of the COMET technique on SS paint until now. How the heck did you figure that out???? Awesome!! I will have time to snap some before and afters. Thanks again for the very helpful reply.


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[Mike Phillips]

Fantastic answer as usual, hence, why I asked you.

The thought of SS paint crossed my mind. I’m not sure, but I have a feeling it is.



It will show up on a rubber clay towel as the dead paint comes off, that will be the visual indicator.

You'll see it on your pads too as mechanical decontamination won't remove all the dead paint. If you're using white pads - it will be harder to see.





I like the idea of quickly hitting it with my clay towel after washing, as there will be that much less residue to build up on the pad.



Even if you just hit the horizontal surfaces and the glass it will help a lot.





Funny you mentioned those three AIO’s. Those are the exact three I have lined up for test spots!



These are all top notch products. Testing is key as paints are different.





That yellow truck is glowing!!



That's why I love that picture - it screams gloss. The truck came in all swirled out and heavily contaminated. And is my norm, I fully documented this project. Something I never see other guys called "instructors" doing. (for decades)


1954 Ford F-100 - Extreme Makeover - Process and products used (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/42270-1954-ford-f-100-extreme-makeover-process-products-used.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford151.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford16.jpg


Here's the clay after claying ONLY one half of the roof - and the roof on these trucks are small.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford67.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford111.jpg


And my friend Jana modeled this truck after we finished.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford59.jpg









I had never heard of the COMET technique on SS paint until now. How the heck did you figure that out????



Been around the block a few times... detailed just about everything under the sun.




Awesome!! I will have time to snap some before and afters. Thanks again for the very helpful reply.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always a pleasure my friend....


:)

[DBAILEY]

The Megs Wash Plus+ is very similar to a Comet wash if you have any of that on hand (obviously milder). Like a softscrub for the paint. I used it on a single stage red Tacoma that was oxidized. I am convinced it removed a lot of oxidation (I could see it in the mitt) and made the first polishing step go a lot better as the pads did not load up as quickly.

[DBAILEY]

Wear gloves though. That stuff does a number on my hands.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

The Megs Wash Plus+ is very similar to a Comet wash if you have any of that on hand (obviously milder). Like a softscrub for the paint. I used it on a single stage red Tacoma that was oxidized. I am convinced it removed a lot of oxidation (I could see it in the mitt) and made the first polishing step go a lot better as the pads did not load up as quickly.
Thanks! I don’t think that’s available OTC anymore, unfortunately. I’m working on the car tomorrow.


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[Dr Oldz]

Hey Mark. May I suggest....if it is single stage...

I find doing 2 fast section passes using the buffing liquid fairly wet as a kinda rough mow then wiping and changing machine and/or pad and run a few quick passes with an AIO, to be very fast and effective on these type of jobs.

You can call or text me if this doesn’t make sense.

I’m sure you will have a huge turn around no matter what you do!

Good luck buddy!

May seem like more work but if done properly, it will save you time and elbow grease.