Wolfgang DGPS alternatives?

[Kneel]

The time is approaching to choose a new LSP, my car is a metalic black VW.

The paint is in reasonably good condition but will be properly prepared, well as good as I can get it.

Last time I used WDGPS, it looked great, but now I want to use something to make it look `Wow!`

Having read umpteen threads I still can`t decide what to go with but have narrowed it down.

Gyeon CanCoat.
Polish Angel Master Sealant.
Blackfire SiO2 Spray Sealant.

There maybe some other product I should be considering?
I would appreciate your thoughts as to what product to use and why.

Thanks.

[MarkD51]

WGDGPS is pretty hard to outdo as far as looks IMO.

What I found though, and some others here totally agree, is topping WGDGPS with Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detailer Spray. A killer combo.

What could possibly change the final outcome in the looks department, might be dependent upon "what prep products" you are using beforehand?

If you're going to polish with a DA prior, might help to mention what products, and pads used?

You might be able to better fine tune final beauty with those products first.

[Kneel]

WGDGPS is pretty hard to outdo as far as looks IMO.



If you're going to polish with a DA prior, might help to mention what products, and pads used?

You might be able to better fine tune final beauty with those products first.

I`ll be using a DA but as yet products and pads is also undecided as I`m also researching those too.

Maybe Scholl S20 Black ... dunno yet though for sure.

[acuRAS82]

I just used PBL Sealant as my winter LSP on a silver Acura and remembered how awesome it is... but I agree it’s hard to outdo DGPS... it’s competitive with that though.

On my black Q5 I used Cancoat (1st time trying), and while the beading and self cleaning are amazing, I wouldn’t say the gloss is overwhelming. It’s very nice but doesn’t look as nice as DGPS on this particular paint. Sorry, no pics at the moment.

[Bruno Soares]

Use WGDGPS and top it with Fuzion Wax (spray or paste). Looks so deep and wet.

[The Guz]

If you want to start venturing into coatings then CanCoat would be a good option. If you want to stay with a sealant then any of the other options plus whatever you have will work.

[MarkD51]

I`ll be using a DA but as yet products and pads is also undecided as I`m also researching those too.

Maybe Scholl S20 Black ... dunno yet though for sure.

There's probably a 100 ways you could go with Polishes and Pads, and come out with outstanding end results.

Since we don't know the condition of your vehicle, and nobody can judge that on the web what will work best no matter how descriptive, you'll have to make that call.

And it might be wise to have a couple different Polish and Pad Combos on hand. Same with what machine and Backing Plate?

From what I know, and have read, VW's have fairly hard paint.

If, for say you have a GG6, or PC7424XP Machine with 5" Backing Plate, then I'd recommend the 5.5" LC ThinPro Pads as a top choice.

If just minor wash induced swirling-hazing, and/or just needing a little "spiffing up" to amp gloss prior to protection products, I'd likely recommend the White Pads.

In that case, a fine to ultra fine finishing Polish. Meguiars #205 fits the bill nicely. And I've always been a huge Wolfgang Fan, their Total Swirl Remover (TSR) is outstanding, no doubt made by Menzerna USA.

TSR will finish down perfectly, to a flawless show car shine, I've found no need to then go on to their "Finishing Glaze", which is actually a super fine finishing polish, not a glaze, and it probably the equivalent of Menzerna 3500-3800. But with Black Paint, that can maybe cause a need for further refinement.

Cause you see everything on Black, even a metallic Black.

For deeper "RIDS", which are Random Isolated Deeper Scratches, then perhaps WG Uber Compound, and possibly the coarser Orange Thin Pro Pads.

There's countless other combos, Carpro, Griots Polishes, Pinnacle, McKees, all trusted and foolproof products, besides countless others.

"You" will have to make the call, as to what will work best. The proverbial "test spot" should be employed always.

Vehicle should at least be clayed prior to Polishing, you want to get those "cooties" off the paint first. If willing to delve further, then a good Iron Remover, such as Carpro Iron-X. (Have a Clothes Pin for your Nose!) LOL

The "Plastic Baggie Test" will help you determine just how contaminant free your paint is prior to any and all further processes.

Hope this helps.

[Willbeen]

I do the same as BSoares on my Audi with black metallic paint.

[Mgavin1985]

If you don’t want to go SIo2 try duragloss 111 or 105 best 12 $ you can spend if you want a spray sealant turtle wax seal and shine or turtle wax ceramic line

[Coatingsarecrack]

Polish angel invincible primer with Polish Angel Cosmic. Like a coating lite, lite. Pa states 12-14 months durability if prepped with in invincible.

I also like the cancoat route for protection and add a sio2 sealant on top.


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[Kneel]

Thanks for the replies, like I said I`m really looking for that extra bit of `wow` and wouldn`t mind using something different to WDGPS.

Perhaps I`m expecting too much from the LSP and put more effort in to prep.

[SWETM]

Yeah it's in the prep aka polishing that you get the most gloss out of. So depending on the defects you have a suitable combo of polishes or a one step polish.

When you use Polish Angel Master Sealant I would recommend if you use something like the Scholl S20 Black SS. To do a finishing polish step with their PA Esclate Lotion. Esclate Lotion is made for being preped before MS application. It has glossenhancers that deepens the color you have and works in synergy with MS. If you have paint in real good condition the Esclate Lotion is enough as it has fine abrasives in it. I used EL on a Rupes Yellow Foam Pad and finishing with 2 layers of the MS on the hood and the roof of my Kia a little over a month go. Worked great and easy to use and looked awesome on the silver metallic paint I have. Many LSP I have used can be a little bright and in the sun afterwards the metallic flakes flushes out the depth of the paint. And some darkening the paint and then it's muting the metallic flakes. It's a lot of the metallic flakes in my paint LOL. But the PA Esclate Lotion and Master Sealant does looks great with a look that bring out both the paint and the metallic flakes real good and honestly not many of the LSP has been close to this look I have. Since I live in Sweden and the use of road salt is awefull I decided to top it up with PA High Gloss after a week. It brightened it up a notch more but still not flushing out the depth of the paint. I'm very satisfied with the results of this combo. Then LSP just does so little changes on the finish. But if you use different kind of LSP you often notice the slightly difference they can be doing. Some just don't see this or do not care and can have paints that LSP don't change very much on. Pearl paints is very hard to see the difference between them for an example. A little goes a long way with Master Sealant and you can apply many coats with it. I applyied both with my 21mm longthrow polisher and a soft finishing/wax pad. This is so with all of the products from PA that they goes a long way.

I have not used WGPS. But many here likes it for the look from it and I trust when you here so many praising it that's awesome. So don't expect a huge difference between another product when you have gotten a really great product already. But you can get a slightly difference in the looks from it. Maybe something like the PA Master Sealant is to close to WGPS and going with getting you a coating look like CanCoat and PA Cosmic can give you might be a better choice for you. If you use CanCoat use Gyeon Primer Polish as a last step before applying it. And if you go with the PA Cosmic you use the PA Invicible Primer Polish. The new Cosmic has the harderness in it that gets activated when you only apply it over Invicible Primer Polish or Invicible Primer Spritz. This is not a gimmick and makes a huge difference in the longevity from Cosmic and did so on the Cosmic V2 coating before too.

Scholl S20 Black SS is a one step compound and is pad dependant. On harder paints and also on softer paints it works great. Me personally want to squeze out a little extra gloss LOL. So I do a finishing polish step and the primer polishes is awesome to use as this. Then you have a lot more great polishes to chose from but mostly it's about what defects on the paint you have and your expectations from the correction and finishing. If you have a lot of deeper defects on your VW. Be prepared to get very aggressive combo to knock them down as the paint is often very hard.

/ Tony

[Kneel]

Thanks for the info Tony, I`m doing my best to take all this knowledge on board.

There`s no major defects with the paint, just light / mid swirling.

[JDGolden]

Use WGDGPS and top it with Fuzion Wax (spray or paste). Looks so deep and wet.

This sounds like great advice.

What about Blackfire Midnight Sun?

[PaulMys]

Thanks for the replies, like I said I`m really looking for that extra bit of `wow` and wouldn`t mind using something different to WDGPS.

Perhaps I`m expecting too much from the LSP and put more effort in to prep.

The "Wax/Sealant vs. Coatings" argument can also be looked at from this angle:

Do you mind applying something (LSP) every 5-6 months? If not, a hybrid wax/sealant is sufficient. Wash, dry, apply a spray wax when possible, and that is the care.

Or, do you want a year (+/-) worth of protection with the same amount of care as above? Easier contaminate removal with a wash but the same regimen (Toppers, more expensive dedicated products, etc.)