Resurrecting a 1973 Triumph TR-6

[hughfree]

Guys,
I want to preface this thread with a disclaimer. I am a novice when it comes to detailing. I have been a member of this forum for years and have learned a lot just reading threads and seeing some of the amazing transformations that many of you produce. I am an old Triumph fan. I recently acquired a 73 TR-6 from a gentleman that had owned it since 1987. It has been on blocks for over 10 years.

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My first order of business was to get the car running which I have accomplished taking it on a "maiden" voyage last weekend.

I am now turning my attention to bringing the paint back to life. The car is pretty much all original including the paint. The exterior paint has deep "scratches"....deep enough to catch a fingernail. I started the process by giving the car it's first bath in over 10 years. I then decided to test an area for results. I chose the rear deck because it is a relatively small area, easy to get to, and easier to read with the lighting in my shop. I clay barred the area and then started the correction face using GG 6" with LC orange flat foam pad with Meg 105. I then swapped to a LC white flat foam pad with Meg 205. Here are the results:

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I have several questions...how aggressive should I be in correcting this paint. I do not have a thickness gauge. As noted above, even after a correction and polishing pass as described above I can still catch my fingernail on the corrected surface. I am pretty happy with the results as is, but I have been considering a second pass with the 105. Should I leave "good enough" alone? Additionally, you can see that the car has pin stripping and decals that were applied to the car after painting. Should I tape over these when I am correcting and polishing or should I work over these surfaces? Finally, I plan on cleaning the engine bay and underside of the hood. How would you recommend attacking these areas?

Thanks for helping me out!

[Aaryn NZ]

Nice one mate! :props:

I do like a TR6.

For me, I think the important thing is that it still has its original paint - that to me is way cooler than having it defect free. Sure you want it looking great, & I believe it will be but don’t sacrifice too much paint in the quest for perfection. :buffing:

The pinstripes look to be vinyl, is this correct? If so, I would remove & re apply. If you want to keep, or if they’re paint, then definitely tape off.

Engine - cover up any perts that shouldn’t get wet & give it a good old fashioned scrub down with a degreaser & a hose. :xyxthumbs:

Keep us up to date with the work too, I’m sure I won’t be alone in wanting to see how it comes out. Sweet car, thank you for sharing.


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:

[Sizzle Chest]

Is it single stage? Are you seeing paint transfer onto your pads?

[Kamakaz1961]

If it's original paint, I would go least aggressive method......POLISH. Is it a singles stage paint? That thing is a beauty. I owned a Triumph TR8 back in the 1980's. I learned how to be a mechanic because of it. As for cleaning the engine....water or condensation is the death of the electronics! I know I had Lucas Electronics in my Triumph.

Lucas Electronics = The Prince of Darkness

Smyth Analog controls = Never worry about how fast your were going, what RPM's the engine was spinning and who cares if the fuel gauge was broke....LOL Everything is a GUESS to make the drive more fun! LOL

IMO, I would use something different than water down the engine or liquid. Maybe a foam APC like Spray Away Glass cleaner.

I have had so much experience with the British cars that I am amazed that you were able to get her running! Congrats on that!

If it were me a simple polish and least amount of liquid to clean the engine and tape off the areas that are deemed easily damaged if polished.

I loved my Triumph, however, it was the biggest POS I have ever owned!

Please let us know what you did with the detailing of your TR6!

I would go wax! But more people here would say coat it!

KEEP ON ROCKING!

[hughfree]

Nice one mate! :props:

I do like a TR6.

For me, I think the important thing is that it still has its original paint - that to me is way cooler than having it defect free. Sure you want it looking great, & I believe it will be but don’t sacrifice too much paint in the quest for perfection. :buffing:

The pinstripes look to be vinyl, is this correct? If so, I would remove & re apply. If you want to keep, or if they’re paint, then definitely tape off.

Engine - cover up any perts that shouldn’t get wet & give it a good old fashioned scrub down with a degreaser & a hose. :xyxthumbs:

Keep us up to date with the work too, I’m sure I won’t be alone in wanting to see how it comes out. Sweet car, thank you for sharing.


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:

Thanks for the complement Aaryn! The pinstripes are vinyl. I haven't thought about removing. Would you remove the hood for cleaning and polishing or try to accomplish this in place? It is awkward getting to the middle of the hood.

[hughfree]

Is it single stage? Are you seeing paint transfer onto your pads?

Single stage, acrylic enamel I believe.

[Sizzle Chest]

OK, don't forget to 'feed' it some Megs #7. Slather it on and let it soak in. It will assist in bringing it back to life as well as the correction afterwards. It will also help you while you take the least aggressive method for correction...just take it easy, so how the paint is reacting to your correction and take it from there. While you still can't guarantee if you 'have enough paint', this will at least give you some piece of mind that you are not going nuts on the paint and leaving some behind for future correction if necessary.

Where are you located, perhaps someone has a PTG in your area that they'd be kind enough to take some readings for you.


I'd keep the hood on so as to limit any fitment/alignment issues later on when reinstalling.

And I'm in for future updates on this cool project!

[Aaryn NZ]

Thanks for the complement Aaryn! The pinstripes are vinyl. I haven't thought about removing. Would you remove the hood for cleaning and polishing or try to accomplish this in place? It is awkward getting to the middle of the hood.

If you’re comfortable removing & refitting the hood, then absolutely. :props:


OK, don't forget to 'feed' it some Megs #7. Slather it on and let it soak in. It will assist in bringing it back to life as well as the correction afterwards. It will also help you while you take the least aggressive method for correction...just take it easy, so how the paint is reacting to your correction and take it from there. While you still can't guarantee if you 'have enough paint', this will at least give you some piece of mind that you are not going nuts on the paint and leaving some behind for future correction if necessary.

Where are you located, perhaps someone has a PTG in your area that they'd be kind enough to take some readings for you.


I'd keep the hood on so as to limit any fitment/alignment issues later on when reinstalling.

And I'm in for future updates on this cool project!

.... And this. :whs: What Scott has mentioned here is real solid advice. Meguiars #7 is incredible for Single Stage paint & well worth the effort. I’m a huge fan of #7 & I am ridiculed for it amongst my peers here in NZ because it’s not hip on the you tube thing & it’s old technology . . . . Whatever! It works, & it works very very well.


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:

[hughfree]

OK, don't forget to 'feed' it some Megs #7. Slather it on and let it soak in. It will assist in bringing it back to life as well as the correction afterwards. It will also help you while you take the least aggressive method for correction...just take it easy, so how the paint is reacting to your correction and take it from there. While you still can't guarantee if you 'have enough paint', this will at least give you some piece of mind that you are not going nuts on the paint and leaving some behind for future correction if necessary.

Where are you located, perhaps someone has a PTG in your area that they'd be kind enough to take some readings for you.


I'd keep the hood on so as to limit any fitment/alignment issues later on when reinstalling.

And I'm in for future updates on this cool project!

Scott - Thanks for the recommendations. I will give the Megs #7 a try. BTW, I live just south of the Atlanta airport in Fayetteville, GA.

[Powerman]

I’ve owned a TR4 and a TR7
Just a suggestion but get a couple of cans of Craig’s contact cleaner and protectant and go over every connection you can reach. I even opened the relays and treated them, you will stop many nagging problems.
You have a single stage paint and if it’s anything like mine you have a bit to work with. If it’s catching fingernails you either have to repaint or ignore them.
I used several different setups over the years the TR 4 I wet sanded and the polished it up with several different products.
The TR-7 I sold to a friend, a year or so ago we gave it a clean up using the Rupes UPC pads and Polish. It turned out much better than expected, we finished with the Wolfgang finishing set and the 3.0 sealant.
It has some scratches but they are hardly noticeable. We removed all the pinstripes and had a local paint them on by hand. It’s a head turner.
The engine has been rebuilt and porting a polishing the intakes made a huge difference in the way it runs. The carbs have been replaced as the factory ones were damm near impossible to keep tuned.
I believe the 6 was the best of the line and is a joy to drive.



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