Best Chip Repair

[77 Cutlass Supreme]

Hello,

Looking to repair a small chip and advice as to the best product and method. The chip is about halfway up from the bottom of the rear passenger door, 4-door silver Tacoma. The chip itself is roughly the size and shape of a sharpened pencil tip, triangular in shape. I have no idea how it got there and I'm fairly certain I didn't do it. Seems the options are touch up or full sand and paint. So far have run across Dr. Color Chip...looks like a good product but the reviews are mixed. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Bobby B.]

I like to use the Dr. ColorChip system. It's super easy to work with and has excellent results. I've never liked working with the touch-up pens from the dealerships.

Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair, dr. color chip, repair paint chips, touch-up paint, Doctor Color-Chip Paint Chip Repair (https://www.autogeek.net/dr-colorchip-paint-chip-repair.html)

[Mike Phillips]

My vote goes to Dr. Color Chip.

If for no other reason, if you're not happy with how your first attempt at touching-up looks simply remove the paint using the Dr. Color Chip "Sealact" solution and start over.

Once your happy - leave it alone and it's a permanent repair.


See my article here, shows you step by step how to use Dr. Color Chip system. LOTS OF PICTURES

How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/83526-how-use-dr-colorchip-paint-chip-repair-systems.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=79595



Watch Dr. Color Chip how-to videos here,

Dr. ColorChip How-To Videos with Dan McCool and Mike Phillips - CompetitionReadyTV.com and Autogeek.com (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/102097-dr-colorchip-how-videos-dan-mccool-mike-phillips-competitionreadytv-com-autogeek-com.html)


Here's one on fixing chips on edges....


2: Techniques for repairing paint chips on edges

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnHrMzjNUGo



:)

[MarkD51]

Welcome to the forum!

I'd say the Dr. C-Chip System is about the easiest, and will likely be one where you can live with the repair.

Trying to work with factory or duplicolor type touch up paints is horrible IMO. They take forever to dry, commonly run and sag, and then the repair can actually look even worse, amateurish. Start monkeying with wet sanding and such, and then that's where one can really get into trouble quickly IMO.

Follow the Dr. C-Chip instructions. Under decent temperature conditions, meaning like 50-75 degrees, this paint will be dry enough to work with in about 10-15 minute's time, usually not much longer. It takes a bit of experimentation, and better to err on a longer time that the paint sets.

Prep the chip area with Alcohol and perhaps a tissue first, so there's no waxes-sealants to get a proper strong bond, let dry.

Apply by either dabbing, or dabbing and smearing.

Then level with the sealact solution. If you have dabbed, or dabbed and spread-smeared the paint outside of the chip area, this is where you want to start removing the excess paint first, while staying away from the chip area. This will give you an idea just how dry and set the paint is. If the paint in those outside areas looks like it's smudging, then the paint needs to dry a bit more.

There is a bit of a learning curve as to how hard and vigorous you need to rub with the sealact solution. Start light at first to get the hang of it, periodically, close the cap and continuously shake the solution so it stays well mixed as you go. You may find the paint is a little hard to remove, thus you'll need to rub a bit harder with a bit more downforce, and repeated rubbing,

As you're starting to remove and get close to leveling the chip, lighten the pressure of your strokes less and less. When you're starting to get close, just let the towel with the solution literally glide lightly over the chip area, going at it one swipe at a time, and slowly. When you think you're almost there, take a MF Towel, wipe the area clean, inspect and look very closely. Even step back and look. Don't rush.

If you think you can wipe a few more times, go ahead and try it. If you should remove too much, or let's say the chip is deep, and might need another 1 or 2 further applications, this is permissible.

Once you feel that you have done the best you can with the system, then leave it alone for about 7 days until fully dry-cured. Then you may apply any wax-sealant-etc that you desire to protect.

[UncleDavy]

Another vote for Dr. Colorchip. It will not be a perfect repair but it will definitely match the color and it is easy to use. The best thing about it is if you don't like the final result, you can use the blending solution to remove the paint and then start over again.

[FUNX650]

Looking to repair a small chip and advice
as to the best product and method.

The chip is about halfway up from the bottom of
the rear passenger door, 4-door silver Tacoma.
The chip itself is roughly the size and shape of a
sharpened pencil tip, triangular in shape.

Seems the options are touch up or full
sand and paint. So far have run across
Dr. Color Chip...

•Whichever option you decide upon, get some
paint in that chip, ASAP: Rust waits on no one.
This time of the year, is not the time, to start
dickering around with exposed substrates.

*************************************

•Dr. ColorChip is an excellent product for
touch-up repairs.

-A repair on a chip this size:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/917DFA30-BD00-4273-BB15-6EC717DFD8EE.jpeg
is easily masked. But, again: get some
paint in it—as soon as possible.


Bob

[Thomkirby]

I agree with many on the value of using the Dr. Colorchip products and their techniques. I have attempted on a few cars to use the Duplicolor or factory touch-up options and I do have good results. The key on either one is going to be time and the size and number of chips you are correcting. I now have a Dr. ColorChip kit or paint for each car in the family. Black Friday is a great time to stock up!

For a video try watching Brian at APEX Detail on YouTube, he has several on the topic, this one is good.
YouTube (https://youtu.be/xNr7ZHMScz4)

If you use the touch up kits mentioned then do not try it with that brush in the paint. That holds far too much paint. Instead I dab a drop of paint into a water bottle cap as my temporary pallet. I then use an Artist 5/0 brush to apply the paint into the scratch or rock chip. This method takes time as you want to slowly build up thin coats. It will dry quickly but wait at least an hour between coats. On some chips I will use the Dr. Colorchip method and drag a small portion into the void with my latex glove. It is touchy doing it this way because you can also do the same to the paint in the void, very frustrating.

IMHO, the reality of chip repair is understanding of the 3-foot rule. No you are not going to make it magically disappear. You will always be able to see the repair, your eyes are looking for the repair. The appearance from 3-feet is to make life better, and so you look at the big picture! Better now with the repair is all you can expect.

I give you an example of my relative's car I worked on recently. For me it was a nightmare to correct the paint due the number of scratches and chips all over the car. Owner wanted it to look better so that is all I can do. Here is the worst part which I did a 2500-grit wet sand to take off any edges prior to filling.
68436

I was going to do a 2-step process so was not worried on buffing out the sanding marks. I only had time to do 2-layers over a two day period as it was either cold or the they needed to run errands.

After I was done it was 30% better and the owner was pleased with having a shiny car (thanks to Pinnacle liquid wax (https://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html)).

68437

It looks fine and yes the dog scratches can still be seen, but at least they are not screaming!

[2black1s]

Here's how I do chip repairs. This process is very time consuming and thus expensive. It's not for everyone and certainly not for every vehicle. But if you have a special interest vehicle or any super nice vehicle this is the way I'd go...

Paint Chip Touch-Up

I'm an old body shop and paint guy. Don't do it any more but did a lot of custom cars and bikes back in the 1970 – 2000 time frame.

The best process I've found for touching up chips on BC/CC finishes (short of repainting the entire panel) is this...

1) Using the edge of a razor blade or Exacto knife, test the margins of the chip for adhesion and carefully chip/trim away any paint that is not firmly adhered to the substrate.

2) Clean the damaged area using a swap and solvent. Enamel reducer or alcohol is my solvent of choice as it will not damage the existing painted surface.

3) Using a fine tip artist’s brush, dab the chip with the appropriate color. Do not try to make the color coat flush to the existing painted surface - you need room for the clear-coat. Minimize any application of paint outside the margin of the chip being repaired. If you do exceed the margin, clean away the excess as described below in step 6). As with most paint applications, multiple thin coats/layers are preferred over a single heavy coat.

4) Allow the color coat to dry thoroughly. It will shrink a little as it dries and if you did step 3 correctly the touched-up color surface will be lower than the existing paint surface.

5) Carefully clean away any remaining excess color that may have exceeded the margin of the chip. If you're really careful a new and sharp single edge razor blade works well. Very fine (i.e., 1500G) wet-or-dry sandpaper is another option.

6) Again, using your artists brush, apply the clear coat in thin coats until the chip is filled flush or slightly higher than the existing paint surface. As in step 3), minimize exceeding the margins of the chip. Where you do exceed the margins or your paint build is too high, squeegee or slice away the excess using the edge of a credit card, a single edge razor blade, or a swab dampened with an appropriate solvent. Any smeared paint resulting from squeegeeing can also be removed with a swab dampened with an appropriate solvent, or with a light sanding once dried. Slightly exceeding the margins with the final coat is acceptable, and even desirable, as long as it’s a very thin coat. Allow to dry thoroughly between coats and overnight or longer for the final coat.

7) Wet sand the repaired area with 1500G wet-or-dry paper.

8) Polish the repaired area.

It takes some time and patience, but done correctly, this process will yield a virtually undetectable repair on solid colors such as black, white, red, etc. Other colors such as metallics, pearls, etc., are more difficult because it's very difficult to match the lay of the metallic when touching-up with a brush.

All of the materials needed including the paint can be obtained at most automotive paint supply stores and/or many body shops.

Hope this might help some of you in the future.

[Mike Phillips]

Here's how I do chip repairs. This process is very time consuming and thus expensive. It's not for everyone and certainly not for every vehicle. But if you have a special interest vehicle or any super nice vehicle this is the way I'd go...

Paint Chip Touch-Up

I'm an old body shop and paint guy. Don't do it any more but did a lot of custom cars and bikes back in the 1970 – 2000 time frame.

The best process I've found for touching up chips on BC/CC finishes (short of repainting the entire panel) is this...

1) Using the edge of a razor blade or Exacto knife, test the margins of the chip for adhesion and carefully chip/trim away any paint that is not firmly adhered to the substrate.

2) Clean the damaged area using a swap and solvent. Enamel reducer or alcohol is my solvent of choice as it will not damage the existing painted surface.

3) Using a fine tip artist’s brush, dab the chip with the appropriate color. Do not try to make the color coat flush to the existing painted surface - you need room for the clear-coat. Minimize any application of paint outside the margin of the chip being repaired. If you do exceed the margin, clean away the excess as described below in step 6). As with most paint applications, multiple thin coats/layers are preferred over a single heavy coat.

4) Allow the color coat to dry thoroughly. It will shrink a little as it dries and if you did step 3 correctly the touched-up color surface will be lower than the existing paint surface.

5) Carefully clean away any remaining excess color that may have exceeded the margin of the chip. If you're really careful a new and sharp single edge razor blade works well. Very fine (i.e., 1500G) wet-or-dry sandpaper is another option.

6) Again, using your artists brush, apply the clear coat in thin coats until the chip is filled flush or slightly higher than the existing paint surface. As in step 3), minimize exceeding the margins of the chip. Where you do exceed the margins or your paint build is too high, squeegee or slice away the excess using the edge of a credit card, a single edge razor blade, or a swab dampened with an appropriate solvent. Any smeared paint resulting from squeegeeing can also be removed with a swab dampened with an appropriate solvent, or with a light sanding once dried. Slightly exceeding the margins with the final coat is acceptable, and even desirable, as long as it’s a very thin coat. Allow to dry thoroughly between coats and overnight or longer for the final coat.

7) Wet sand the repaired area with 1500G wet-or-dry paper.

8) Polish the repaired area.

It takes some time and patience, but done correctly, this process will yield a virtually undetectable repair on solid colors such as black, white, red, etc. Other colors such as metallics, pearls, etc., are more difficult because it's very difficult to match the lay of the metallic when touching-up with a brush.

All of the materials needed including the paint can be obtained at most automotive paint supply stores and/or many body shops.

Hope this might help some of you in the future.


Nice.

If you don't mind, take and copy and paste this into a new thread here,


https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles/


I appreciate your sharing your experience and also your taking the time to type up and format the above info.



Typing, like thinking up the words, is time-consuming. This is why so few do it.


:dblthumb2:

[Al D]

Here's how I do chip repairs. This process is very time consuming and thus expensive. It's not for everyone and certainly not for every vehicle. But if you have a special interest vehicle or any super nice vehicle this is the way I'd go...

Paint Chip Touch-Up

I'm an old body shop and paint guy. Don't do it any more but did a lot of custom cars and bikes back in the 1970 – 2000 time frame.

The best process I've found for touching up chips on BC/CC finishes (short of repainting the entire panel) is this...

1) Using the edge of a razor blade or Exacto knife, test the margins of the chip for adhesion and carefully chip/trim away any paint that is not firmly adhered to the substrate.

2) Clean the damaged area using a swap and solvent. Enamel reducer or alcohol is my solvent of choice as it will not damage the existing painted surface.

3) Using a fine tip artist’s brush, dab the chip with the appropriate color. Do not try to make the color coat flush to the existing painted surface - you need room for the clear-coat. Minimize any application of paint outside the margin of the chip being repaired. If you do exceed the margin, clean away the excess as described below in step 6). As with most paint applications, multiple thin coats/layers are preferred over a single heavy coat.

4) Allow the color coat to dry thoroughly. It will shrink a little as it dries and if you did step 3 correctly the touched-up color surface will be lower than the existing paint surface.

5) Carefully clean away any remaining excess color that may have exceeded the margin of the chip. If you're really careful a new and sharp single edge razor blade works well. Very fine (i.e., 1500G) wet-or-dry sandpaper is another option.

6) Again, using your artists brush, apply the clear coat in thin coats until the chip is filled flush or slightly higher than the existing paint surface. As in step 3), minimize exceeding the margins of the chip. Where you do exceed the margins or your paint build is too high, squeegee or slice away the excess using the edge of a credit card, a single edge razor blade, or a swab dampened with an appropriate solvent. Any smeared paint resulting from squeegeeing can also be removed with a swab dampened with an appropriate solvent, or with a light sanding once dried. Slightly exceeding the margins with the final coat is acceptable, and even desirable, as long as it’s a very thin coat. Allow to dry thoroughly between coats and overnight or longer for the final coat.

7) Wet sand the repaired area with 1500G wet-or-dry paper.

8) Polish the repaired area.

It takes some time and patience, but done correctly, this process will yield a virtually undetectable repair on solid colors such as black, white, red, etc. Other colors such as metallics, pearls, etc., are more difficult because it's very difficult to match the lay of the metallic when touching-up with a brush.

All of the materials needed including the paint can be obtained at most automotive paint supply stores and/or many body shops.

Hope this might help some of you in the future.

I HATE rock chips and have used the above method for about 15 years. It's not quick, but done carefully, this yields the most undetectable repair have found.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned "Langka". This has been my go to for chip repairs when I don't use the above method. I find it much better than Dr Color Chip (or maybe I just wasn't careful enough with DC). I found Dr Color Chip to be a little better when doing a big area with multiple chips, but found Langka gave better results with one chip. Just one persons opinion. I have started wrapping the front of all my cars with clear bra so i don't have to do my own cars any more.

[2black1s]

Nice.

If you don't mind, take and copy and paste this into a new thread here,


https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles/


I appreciate your sharing your experience and also your taking the time to type up and format the above info.



Typing, like thinking up the words, is time-consuming. This is why so few do it.


:dblthumb2:

Done!