Method name??

[luckydawg]

Mike
You have shown in videos many times how you lay a strip of product and pick it up with the pad ( rotary )

You called it by a particular name I think-- what was that?

[Bobby B.]

Picking up your "Bead' of product

Mike Phillips' The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine Paperback Book (https://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html)

[Mike Phillips]

Here you go,


The 10 @ 10 technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/circular-polishers-rotary-polishers-high-speed-polisher/29321-10-10-technique-picking-up-bead-product-rotary-buffer.html)



Here's a pictorial example with comments on how to pick up your bead of product using the 10 @ 10 Technique from this thread,

Pictures & Comments from September 19th Detailing 102 Class (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-sunday-detailing-102-advanced-class/28953-pictures-comments-september-19th-detailing-102-class.html)



It's important to wear safety glasses anytime you're operating power tools...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass059.jpg


Demonstrating the 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass060.jpg


With this technique you run the bead of product into that pad at the 10 O'Clock position on the pad while tilting the pad approximately 10 degrees moving the buffer from right to left...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass061.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass062.jpg


When you do this instead of splattering the product outward, the pad will pull the product into into itself and under the pad...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass063.jpg


After you pick up your bead you can then lay your pad flat, spread the product out over the area you're going to work and begin making slow, overlapping passes.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass064.jpg



The goal is to remove all of the sanding marks and restore gloss and clarity to the paint. It's okay if there are still swirls left behind as we'll remove those during the polishing step.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass072.jpg



:)





:)

[Mike Phillips]

The 10 @ 10 technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/circular-polishers-rotary-polishers-high-speed-polisher/29321-10-10-technique-picking-up-bead-product-rotary-buffer.html)


The 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product is a way you can grabbing your product on the fly with your rotary buffer in a way that pulls the product under and into the face of the buffing pad instead of splattering it all over the place.

Some people take their pad and simply spread their product out over the paint with the buffer off and then after spreading it out turn the buffer on and start buffing, this works but can also throw splatter all over the place.

The 10 @ 10 Technique not only works but has a cool factor to it that shows anyone watching that you know how to pick up a bead of product like a Pro.

First of all, the term bead in detailing talk beans a line or strip of product. Just want to make sure everyone understands that term.

To pick up your bead of product using the 10 @ 10 Technique, while holding the rotary buffer in your hands, looking at the back of the buffing pad, pretend it's clock. The top is 12:00 O'clock and going clockwise you have the 1, 2, 3, etc. positions on the buffing pad that would correlate with a clock.

What you want to do is bring the rotary buffer up to speed and then lock the trigger into place so you don't have to hold it in the entire time you're buffing.

Next, place the buffing pad just in front of your bead of product at the 10 O'clock position.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/10oclock.jpg

The pad should be spinning but not in contact with the paint.

Lightly touch the buffing pad down so the 3 O'clock position is just making contact with the paint and the 10 O'clock position is raised off the paint about 10 degrees.

Now run the buffing pad over the bead of product from right to left drawing the bead in at the 10 O'clock position. (not the 9 O'clock or 11 O'clock posting but the 10 O'clock position).

Since the pad is rotating clockwise, the bead of product will be pulled into and under the pad instead of being thrown away from the pad as splatter.


As soon as you move the polisher past the last portion of the bead of product instantly move the raised portion of the buffing pad so that the entire pad is now flat against the paint and proceed to spread the product out over the area you're going to work.

After the product is spread out, then start working the product against the paint with slow overlapping passes.

I show this technique in this video,


Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gc_umhlote4






At our recent Advanced Detailing Class, I helped Tanya to learn how to pick up a bead of product using the rotary buffer. With a little practice you'll be picking up your bead like a Pro!


Tanya is ready to learn the way of the rotary buffer...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass087.jpg


First things first and that's learning the 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass088.jpg


Tilt about 10 degrees and run the buffing pad over the bead at the 10 O'clock position with the 3 O'clock position of the pad just lightly against the paint...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass089.jpg



Continue moving the buffing pad over the bead of product at the 10 O'clock position on the buffing pad.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass090.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass091.jpg


When you get to the end of the bead of product then lay the pad flat and then spread the product out over the area you're going to work.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass092.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass093.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass096.jpg



Here's a good picture that shows how Charles has spread his product out over an average size area to work at one time and now he's compound the paint.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/Sept19ADVClass083.jpg



Once you master the 10 @ 10 Technique and understand how the technique works, you can then start freestyling and picking your bead of product up anywhere on the buffing pad as long as you do it in such a way that the spinning pad is pulling the product into and under the pad and not throwing it as splatter.

For example, another common way to pick up your bead of product is at the 4 @ 10 Technique.

For this you would be moving the rotary buffer from left to right, with the pad just touching down at the 9 O'clock position and lifting the opposite side about 10 degrees and then running the bead in at the 4 O'clock position.

Since the pad is rotating clockwise, the bead of product will be pulled into and under the pad instead of being thrown away from the pad as splatter.


Remember to clean your pad often using either a Spur or a Pad Washer.

Using a Spur to clean a wool buffing pad to remove spent product and removed paint

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/936/medium/Sept19ADVClass097.jpg




:)

[Mike Phillips]

More....


Finger Painting Technique when using a Rotary Buffer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/81029-finger-painting-technique-when-using-rotary-buffer.html)


I call this Finger Painting - It's where you take your product spreader and spread out a thin layer of compound or polish to,

A: Spread the product out over the section of paint to be buffed.

B: Lubricate the area being buffed.


Normally I use the 10 @ 10 Technique to lay down a bead of product directly onto the paint to be buffed but for tight areas like you see below, you want to lubricate the paint and even the pad because buffing out thin panels like this or buffing into tight areas will put a lot of cutting power into play.

It's all about getting a film of compound or polish on the paint you're going to buff as this film of product not only contains the abrasives to abrade the paint but the film also lubricates the paint and especially the edges to help prevent burn-through.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2412/1966_Orange_Nova_061.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2412/1966_Orange_Nova_062.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2412/1966_Orange_Nova_063.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2412/1966_Orange_Nova_064.jpg


You can also apply some compound or polish to the outer edges of the pad and work this product into the fibers, (or work it into the foam if using a foam pad), to moisten and lubricate the outside edge of the pad.

Like shown here,

Rotary Buffer Tip - Prime the side edges of foam cutting pads (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/69128-rotary-buffer-tip-prime-side-edges-foam-cutting-pads.html)



Just be careful when turning the polisher on as centrifugal force will kick in and you can sling any excess product out of the pad and onto surrounding areas and even your eyes.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

More...


How to buff off an edge when using a rotary buffer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/58392-how-buff-off-edge-when-using-rotary-buffer.html)



Correctly buffing off an edge...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/797/BuffingOffEdgeRightWay01.jpg




***Proactive Preface***


When I say,

buff off an edge


I don't mean remove the paint off the edge but instead how to best hold the polisher when moving a spinning pad over an edge to reduce the risk of causing harm to the edge and to prevent the spinning pad from grabbing the edge and yanking your grip on the rotary buffer potentially causing you, the paint or the car harm.

I know there's a lot of persnickety fellers out there that like to twist words on purpose for their own nefarious reasons so this first paragraph is to ensure anyone that can read and think understands the context of the title. I never mind helping those that are easily and/or willfully confused. :laughing:




Now let's move on to the how-to part...


How to buff off and edge when using a rotary buffer
This is kind of tricky to type about but here goes. First it’s always a good best practice to not buff directly on top of an edge. This is because paint tends to be thinner on high points as it flows downward due to gravity plus there’s always the possibility that some other detailer has buffed the car out before you and doesn’t practice the best practice.

It’s also a good best practice to hold the pad flat to the surface and not hold the pad at an angle so you’re only using a portion of the pad on edge. That said, sooner or later all panels come to an end at the end of the panel is an edge. Your goal is to buff the paint up to the edge but not buff with firm pressure directly on top of the edge.

When your rotary buffer is turned on and you’re looking down on the back of the buffing pad and backing plate, the pad spins in a clockwise rotation. You need to understand the relationship between the direction the buffing pad is rotating and the way you run the pad next to an edge.

You want the pad touching down in a way that the pad is rotating over and off the edge, not rotating into the edge. See the pictures below as I think they will do a better job of showing you what to do and what not to do.




Right Technique
In these pictures the body of the rotary buffer is held in a way so that when the pad is spinning it is buffing or rotating OFF the edge.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-un6qA_pug6U/UMj2QL2oTLI/AAAAAAAAGU8/PeM7KCpLdeU/s640/rotation.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/797/BuffingOffEdgeRightWay02.jpg



Wrong Technique
In these pictures the body of the rotary buffer is held in a way so that when the pad is spinning it is buffing or rotating INTO the edge.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/797/BuffingOffEdgeWrongWay02.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/797/BuffingOffEdgeWrongWay01.jpg


Make sense?

A good way to really understand what it means to buff off an edge or to buff into an edge is to get a junker panel or a beater car that no one cares about and PURPOSEFULLY perform both the correct and incorrect technique.

The technique will make complete sense immediately when you try to buff into and edge.


:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

This shows from a different camera angle - how to pick up a bead or strip of product using the 10 @ 10 Technique


How to use a Rotary Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/56160-how-use-rotary-polisher.html)


Here's the demo vehicle I used to teach my recent class on how to use a rotary buffer, it's a 1966 Corvette Sting Ray that's filled with millions of swirls and scratches. How you see the paint on the car depends on ho you inspect it.


A swirled-out old 2-door Chevy...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1557/SeptBootCampClass001.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1557/SeptBootCampClass002.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1557/SeptBootCampClass003.jpg



Inspecting the true condition of the paint
In the pictures above the paint looks very good but below is how it actually looked...

This is called, "The Sun Shot", it's when you move the car into full overhead sun and position the reflection of the sun onto the horizontal panels where it will reveal swirls, scratches and water spots.



The Sun Shot
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1557/2012SeptBC008.jpg



Paint Condition
According to the chapter on paint condition categories (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/51281-page-37-paint-condition-categories.html) in my how-to book, The Art of Detailing (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fart-of-detailing-paperback-book.html) this paint fall into category #5 & #6 because it has both sever cobweb swirls and holograms.


5: Severely Neglected
Paint in this condition has deep swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation. Paint in this condition has normal day-in, day-out wear-n-tear plus no real regular maintenance. Vehicles in this category are rarely washed on a regular basis and when they are washed they are washed improperly or taken through automatic car wash.

Cobweb Swirls and Scratches
Paint that is severely neglected means that when viewed in bright, overhead sunlight, there are so many swirls and scratches that the paint has an overall hazy appearance which blocks your view of the true color.


Water Spots
Paint that is in the severely neglected category can have Type I, Type II and Type III water spots on all horizontal panels and even the vertical panels if caused by a sprinkler or some type of water spray.


Severe Oxidation
Paint in this category has oxidized to the point where the surface has a uniform dull appearance to the horizontal surfaces and to some extent the vertical panels. Clear coats do oxidize but usually slower than single stage paints and don't normally get the whitish, chalky appearance with a rough texture common to old, neglected single stage lacquers and enamels.
6: Horrendous Swirls - Caused by the misuse of a rotary buffer
This category is primarily for cars that have been improperly buffed-out using a rotary buffer leaving the finish inflicted with rotary buffer swirls, holograms or buffer trails.
(Whatever term you like, they all mean the same thing).


The severity of the swirls can range from shallow to deep depending upon the pad and product used with the rotary buffer as well as technique or lack thereof.

The normal three culprits for paint in this condition are,

Dealer Installed Swirl Option
Bodyshop Installed Swirl Option
Detailer Installed Swirl Option
Sad but true, the people in this industry that are supposed to know how to properly buff out a car normally either don't know or don't care. The results are the same and that's a swirled out car finish that someone else will have to undo.



Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light
Here's what the paint looks like when lit up with the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fbrinkman n-swirl-finder-light.html)...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1570/1966CorvetteSwirls.jpg



Doing a Test Spot Using a Rotary Buffer
A couple of days before the class I did a Test Spot for a number of reasons,

1. To ensure the paint could be restored.

2. To dial in a process that would undo the damage and restore a swirl-free, show car finish.

3. Get a feel for the paint itself, that is how soft or hard it is and how easy or difficult it would be to correct.
The Major Correction or Cutting Step
Because every inch of ever body panel was filled with swirls and the goal is to remove as many of the defects as possible I chose to start out with an aggressive compound and a wool pad.

M105 with a W5000 Wool Pad on the DeWALT 849X
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass006.jpg



The Minor Correction or Polishing Step
After the cutting step the next thing to do is restore and maximize gloss and clarity by removing any holograms and haze left by the aggressive fibers that make up a wool cutting pad and the cutting action of the abrasives in the compound. Because M105 uses Super Microscopic Abrasive Technology, the majority of any holograms are not from the abrasives but from the individual fibers that make up a wool cutting pad and the downward rotating pressure applied to cut the paint.

Thus the swirls should be very shallow and easily removed with the companion or twin product to the M105 and that's the M205 Ultra Polish. For this I switched over to a foam polishing pad.

M205 with a 7" Softbuff Polishing Pad
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass007.jpg



Jeweling with a Rotary Buffer
After removing the holograms and polishing to a high gloss the paint looked flawless and ready to wax but instead I chose to squeeze a little more gloss and shine out of the paint by jewelling it with the same polish but I switched to a much softer foam finishing pad. For this I turned my polisher down to 600 RPM's and slowly moved the rotary buffer over the paint.

M205 with a 7" Softbuff Finishing Pad
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass008.jpg


Using the Brinkmann to inspect the results...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass009.jpg


Inspection Results
Here are the results after doing the above three steps using the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light and then overhead florescent lights.

Before
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass010.jpg


After
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass011.jpg


Overhead Florescent Lights
Here I've stood back and taken a picture from an angle lower, and flatter to the hood of the car with the overhead florescent lights placed over the tape-line.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass012.jpg


Close-up
The below picture is the same exact picture above except I've cropped out the specific area to show before and after results.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/SeptBootCampClass013.jpg





The above is probably one of my most photo-documented classes on how to use a rotary buffer where the class buffed out a 1966 Corvette. You simply don't see this at any other class on the market. It's always a demo hood and that's if the students actually get out of their chairs. :laughing:


Check out all the pictures...

How to use a Rotary Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/56160-how-use-rotary-polisher.html)


How did the class do?

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1570/TrainingVette062.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1570/TrainingVette063.jpg



:)

[Mike Phillips]

More...

Rotary Buffer Tip - Prime the side edges of foam cutting pads (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/69128-rotary-buffer-tip-prime-side-edges-foam-cutting-pads.html)


Here's a technique that can save your butt when doing aggressive cutting into curved panels. It was buried in another article of mine written back in 2010.


Anytime you're buffing next to an adjacent panel and it's possible you could run the vertical or side edge of your pad into the paint, lubricate it by working some of the product you're using on the face of the pad onto and into the foam.

This will help to keep from generating too much heat and burning the paint and also in the case of these lower panels, help me to remove some of the sanding marks on the angled section.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections004.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections005.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections006.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections007.jpg


It's this little long thin section I'm trying to improve and protect.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections008.jpg



Picking up just a portion of the bead of product using the 10 @ 10 technique and then working it over a portion of this panel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections009.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections010.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections011.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections012.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections013.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections014.jpg


Note the safety glasses... don't want any splatter in my eyes...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections017.jpg


After removing the sanding marks in the front portion of that panel I picked up my bead and tackled the rear portion...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections018.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections019.jpg


My personal preference is not handle, if there is a handle I actually prefer a stick handle over a hoop handle as I can quickly and easily either remove it or move it from side to side depending upon how it works best for the panel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections020.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections021.jpg



Before
The paint was mottled. I sanded it flat and then removed my sanding marks.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections003.jpg

After
Much better...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections026.jpg

[luckydawg]

Thanks Mike
You always go above and beyond- have no idea where you find the time to do it all
Your the best!

[bofh]

Mike is that Jim Wight (White Details) standing next to you in the first few photos?

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike
You always go above and beyond- have no idea where you find the time to do it all

Your the best!




When I need to find something I've written, I just type a few key words and my name Mike Phillips into Skynet and BOOM! There's a half dozen to a dozen articles I've written on the topic.

I normally make all the titles in the top of the first post a "blue clickable link" so then I just copy and paste it into the thread I'm answering.

Of course, I'm on a PC with a full Microsoft Ergo Keyboard and my arm holder uppers, so it's easy to type fast. Typing and of course "thinking" has been a skill set I use in the detailing world, (most of my peers just know how to use a buffer), that has been a true leverage of time.







Mike is that Jim Wight (White Details) standing next to you in the first few photos?




Could be? I can't tell from memory.

I know a LOT of people that have taken my classes over the last 18 years have went on to start businesses and some are even personalities in the online world.

I could name names but won't.



:dblthumb2:

[Mike Phillips]

Just to add...





Note the safety glasses... don't want any splatter in my eyes...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections017.jpg










The red car you see me working on the lower sides using a rotary after wetsanding can be seen in this article from 2010. The Meguiar's Unigrit discs and just been invented. To date, I believe I'm the first and only person to have a FULL how-to article on the topics of dampsanding. I also taught this as a class at the 2010 Mobile Tech Expo.


Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/25915-damp-sanding-tools-tips-techniques-mike-phillips.html)


The polished section in the center is where we shot the how-to video
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/UnigritDampSanding002.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/834/DampSanding75.jpg



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/834/DampSanding69.jpg



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/834/DampSanding68.jpg



Yancy back in the early days...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/834/DampSanding76.jpg


Never saw the car again...

Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/25915-damp-sanding-tools-tips-techniques-mike-phillips.html)


:)