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View Full Version : Sonax BSD and Turle Wax Ice Seal and Shine Removal?



soapboxpreacher
10-19-2019, 01:28 PM
Been using both to test, one on the drive side one on the passenger side. TW is really hard to buff out. I can see all the smudges and need to buff and buff more to get it worked in. BSD (Brilliant Shine Detailer) is easier to take off but still not easy. I like both of these as they seem to hold up quite long. TW is beating out my Collinite 845 for durability by quite a bit. But I strongly prefer putting on 845 to TW!! 845 is easy to work with. Looking for a winter wax/polymer. What do you guys do to buff these spray wax/seal stuff of? I tried a Rag Co 500 which is not the right rag to use but I use one to put it on as it spreads it nicely. And then a Rag Co 350 to remove it. TW grabs a lot, you need to buff this stuff a lot to get our all the smears and chemical smudges to make it look nice. I have to go over spots 3 and 4 times to get it nice. I am putting on a metallic white paint so it shows in the sun easily. BSD is easier but its more like a resin than a spray wax. I give the durability to TW but its not conclusive. Finally I am finding that once you have your paint looking swirl free, prepped right I really prefer these spray products. The durability has been ridiculous. BSD seems like it might be my go to. Let me know if there are other products that have the spray durability and shine the TW and BSD has. Hate to be a sell out and use TW...try to support AG as much as I can.

DMiglio
10-19-2019, 02:45 PM
Hey Soapboxpreacher, question regarding the tricky removal, are you using multiple towels for this or just one? I’d suggest maybe using more to see if that improves the buffing off of the products to reduce any smears/streaks/smudges. Idk if this is the issue but I know with some products it can make a difference.

As for the all the options available for winter protection and wanting to support AG, why not look into picking up Sonax PNS and using the BSD monthly to maintain? It uses the same polymers as BSD so they work very well together and will give you strong coating like beading, self cleaning attributes and protection.

If you’re looking to try something else that’s sprayable and easy to maintain while supporting AG, maybe try out a coating-lite product like Gyeon CanCoat and maintain with Gyeon Cure? You’ll be getting an easy to apply(just need to focus on prep) coating that’ll outlast the elements til Spring.

soapboxpreacher
10-19-2019, 02:48 PM
Multiple, one to apply/wipe on and one to buff.

DMiglio
10-19-2019, 03:08 PM
Multiple, one to apply/wipe on and one to buff.

I’m sorry I should have been more specific, I mean to say for removal. Try using multiple towels to remove the sealants, as soon as you notice it becoming difficult to remove then switch to a new one. If it’s happing immediately though, then I’m not too sure what it could be :/

Maybe give that a shot and hope it improves your experience. I used BSD for the first time yesterday and it was very nice to use as a drying aid. I did notice though that it did leave streaking at different areas of the vehicle so went back around after drying the car to buff off any streaking.

acuRAS82
10-19-2019, 08:38 PM
OP, how is TW beating 845 in durability? Are you doing chemical tests, or just living in a harsh environment? Just curious about your experiences.

soapboxpreacher
10-21-2019, 06:00 AM
Everyday beading. 845 side stopped beading about 6 weeks, TW was still beading into the 10th week. No chemical test as for me that is not a realistic everyday test of typical rain, road film and so on. If I am putting super cleaner or purple on it I am obviously trying to strip it off. Once I have put any of these on for durability short of a ceramic it is tested against everyday elements and normal weekly hand washes using a normal car shampoo.

soapboxpreacher
10-21-2019, 06:02 AM
I figured it out, use a damp MF when streaking occurs. It seems to work.

KBsToy
10-21-2019, 07:00 AM
Everyday beading. 845 side stopped beading about 6 weeks, TW was still beading into the 10th week. No chemical test as for me that is not a realistic everyday test of typical rain, road film and so on. If I am putting super cleaner or purple on it I am obviously trying to strip it off. Once I have put any of these on for durability short of a ceramic it is tested against everyday elements and normal weekly hand washes using a normal car shampoo.

I like your approach :)
Here in SW Pa I have used TW on wife's daily driver. As a drying aid / topper I use TW wax and dry :)

Ochnob
10-21-2019, 07:25 AM
I have found that a Flairosol spray bottle helps with the application of Sonax BSD. Can’t speak for the TW. It puts on a nice easy mist of BSD. I use any 300/350gsm to buff in. But for the final wipe I have found that the dirt cheap microfiber towels for the final wipe seem to work really good. The issue is that the good towels seem to grab. Where the cheaper, thick, towels allow it to glide over the paint. I use this method for Sonax PNS as well. That final buff of PNS with a cheap towel doesn’t crap and really makes the PNS shine.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline

soapboxpreacher
10-21-2019, 07:56 AM
I have found that a Flairosol spray bottle helps with the application of Sonax BSD. Can’t speak for the TW. It puts on a nice easy mist of BSD. I use any 300/350gsm to buff in. But for the final wipe I have found that the dirt cheap microfiber towels for the final wipe seem to work really good. The issue is that the good towels seem to grab. Where the cheaper, thick, towels allow it to glide over the paint. I use this method for Sonax PNS as well. That final buff of PNS with a cheap towel doesn’t crap and really makes the PNS shine.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline

BSD has been easier to work with the TW. It doesnt last quite as long but I like the results. Found the same. Seems like to apply either you can us a higher GSM as it will spread better and more evenly. But buffing in...high GSM is terrible for once either one of these sets they get grabby and my 500 GSM Rag Cos are not fun! Which cheap MF are you using? Have a gross of Kirkland MF that I dont use but for crappy work.

acuRAS82
10-21-2019, 06:35 PM
Everyday beading. 845 side stopped beading about 6 weeks, TW was still beading into the 10th week. No chemical test as for me that is not a realistic everyday test of typical rain, road film and so on. If I am putting super cleaner or purple on it I am obviously trying to strip it off. Once I have put any of these on for durability short of a ceramic it is tested against everyday elements and normal weekly hand washes using a normal car shampoo.
Only 6 weeks beading from 845? Has this been your previous experience with 845 as well?

soapboxpreacher
10-21-2019, 11:12 PM
8 weeks at best. I love the stuff and it is easy to work with. But the weeks in which I tested it we had tons of rain. I drive an average of 80 miles a day. Vehicle is garage kept as well. But It is one of my favorites just didn’t seem to last as long as what I was led to believe. Two separate test where I did half the car with Wolfgang’s DGPS which looked ever so slightly better but didn’t last as last as 845. Factor in the daily miles, weather and so on very few products outside of ceramic will last long. TW is so far the champ fo longevity. But I don’t like working with it. I heat up 845 after shaking it like crazy and it is sooo easy to work with that I don’t mind having to do it ever couple of month same with Wolfgang’s which looks absolutely amazing!

Markymapo
10-22-2019, 01:12 AM
I had 845 on my F150 last winter but topped it every 12 weeks with McKee’s fast wax so hard to tell the longevity. I would have been better off just applying 845 every 12 weeks but the McKee’s 37 fast wax was so easy to work with during the winter. This winter I am going with Collinite 476 reapplied every 16weeks if the weather permits (this is my daily drive during bad weather n crusty roads so it takes a beating) I must say the 476 seems to be holding (it’s been 8 weeks) up nicely compared to the 845.
My M4 gets WGDGS every 4 months but it’s not a daily drive (stays in garage unless the roads are clear). The car is metallic grey n the WGDGS really knocks it out ofthe park for gloss (I am tempted to ceramic coat it but but I still have a full bottle left). My wife’s Lexus IS350 is her daily drive and that has GtechEXO 3.0 with a spray on SiO2 maintenance every 3 months ; EXO has been on for a year. M daughters car had Sonax PNS on it but I didn’t care for the resistance to bird bomb (PNSonly 2 months old). It got colinite 845 this fall, let’s see how it holds up. The EXO and maintenance spray are the clear winners (and have the added advantage of wiping off bird bombs n tree sap easier compared to previous items listed above).these are just my rookie observations .

SWETM
10-23-2019, 04:18 AM
If you like to spray it on the paint directly I would get a EZ Mist Sprayer Bottle which is like the Flairosol spray bottle mentioned by ochnob. The thicker solution of the BSD really gets easier to use in such of a bottle. If it where me I would dilute it 1:1 BSD to destilled water in the EZ Mist Sprayer Bottle for maintance of the base layer of the BSD. To get the most out of the BSD is the prep work as usually but also apply it like a sealant with a mf applicator sponge. Work in 20"×20" sections and wipe it off directly. And you can apply a second layer directly afterwards if you like or you will get it topped up nicely with the maintance 1:1 solution every other week or so on dry paint or if you like to use a drying aid. The thing with the BSD is that's very concentrated and a lot of protection in it. Combo that with the thicker solution of the BSD and it's hard to spread it out evenly and gets a hard removal. When I use it straight from the BSD bottle I prime with 1 spray and another 1 for the section I apply it on with a mf towel or mf applicator sponge. With the mf towel I looking as far as it spread out. Often a whole panel or a half of the hood or the roof with 1 spray. You can control if it's leaving something behind on a side window with a short wipe and buff it off. So key is to get it in a thin layer of the BSD for an easier removal. Or if you put on the base coat layer is to apply it on very small sections.

EZ Mist Sprayer - Black (https://www.autogeek.net/ez-mist-sprayer.html)

The experience with BSD and the mf towel I use to remove it. This is the same with both apply it as a sealant or with spraying on the mf towel and spread it out and with a EZ Mist Sprayer Bottle kind of sprayers directly on the paint. Is to use a low looped nap mf towel as the Forrest Green Edgeless Polishing Cloth has. This cuts through the thicker solution of the BSD and picks it up great for the initial wipe off. Also the BSD has a lot of residue to buff off. So have a lot of these mf towels at hand. Cause as soon as one side gets saturated with product it's needed to be flipped to a fresh side or a fresh mf towel. You see this in that it leaves more streaks behind and that happens fast with the BSD. And it's not worth to fight it and just use more mf towels instead LOL. About 4-5 of these low looped nap mf towels is what I usually goes through. And you don't need to getting it totaly smear/streak free with this initial wipe off. Cause directly after the first wipe off when you have buffed off the most of the BSD. I use a thicker gsm split weave mf towel like The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless in 500gsm. You even use a higher gsm mf towel than that. As with the mf towel buffing you want the mf towel to pick up and hold as much of the BSD residue as possible. The second wipe usually feels less grabby and should get a feeling to get less grabby. Now you don't get very high slickness from the BSD but a kind of smooth feeling when the residue is picked up by the mf towel. Also here you want the mf towel to not leave any smear/streaking behind. As soon as you notice it flip the mf towel or reach for a fresh one. Here I use around 2 of the split weave mf towel that's around 500gsm.

So for getting an easier removal it's much about how you apply. Thin application you can work in a bigger section but before reload the paint wipe it off. And if you apply it thicker like a sealant application work in smaller sections for easier removal. It bonds very fast so no need to be dwelling on the paint. And try with the kind of mf towels I suggested and see how you like it. Have enough of towels as you need it to pick up the BSD residue. And I think that you will get a better experience with the wipe off of BSD.

Forrest Green Edgeless Polishing Cloth (https://www.autogeek.net/edgless-towel.html)

When you have a higher humidity outside Turtle Wax ICE Seal N Shine is awefull to work with. So it's needed to be applyied in a nice dry weather conditions. If you still have a problem with the SNS it's probebly that you use to much of product. Use a very slightly damped mf towel or mf applicator sponge and apply the SNS on it and spread it out as far as it reach you. And I would try the same wipe off method with the kind of mf towels used with the BSD. With SNS when I first applyied it it started to rain directly after the SNS was applyied. And that where no fun experience with it. Also the longevity from it was only 6 weeks before total fail. Applyied it again in much better weather conditions and it where like a dream to be working with and only the low loop nap mf towel was needed to be wipe it off with. And got that nice very slick feeling when it where coming off.

Also if you like the BSD I would recommend you to try out the PNS. You will get a longer durability from it than both the BSD and TW SNS. And you can stretch the longevity from it with apply BSD on it every month or so. As mentioned by DMiglio it uses the same polymers in them and even the Sonax CC36 coating has a kind of same polymers in it.

/ Tony