Claybar plastic baggy test

[animescreen]

So i did test section so can compare two sides after claybarring and after doing the plastic baggy test the area i clayed still feels like tiny speck dots. Little better then the untouched side. Is this mean the car is heavily contaminated and have to do like several runs or add more pressure? This is only few months old car

I didnt lube it a lot (im little certain) but im wondering if you do lube it more the clay is less affective and just hydroplaning

I was under impression the baggy test will be smooth as butter after claying lol


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[mwoolfso]

Is this a new "used" vehicle or a 2019/2020 model off the dealer lot? What clay are you using?

You have a couple of options. First, if you were planning on polishing the paint with a machine, may be best to go to that step - which would eliminate whatever is there. Second, if that doesn't seem plausible then you may need a more aggressive clay.

[animescreen]

Well second time around put bit more pressure and i can feel specks going away. And its less waxy feel and more glass cleaned from dawn soap etc which im guessing is working. I might have to do couple more passses as it seems the dealer didnt put any wax and i didnt either and obly put meguiar quick spray wax every week or so

Question is .. doing multiple passes and little and added pressure while claying should be fine right ? Ill be polishing after practicing in my other car but meanwhile ill do claying then put wax then when it comes to polish ill strip wax and probally clay one fonal time then polish


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[animescreen]

Is this a new "used" vehicle or a 2019/2020 model off the dealer lot? What clay are you using?

You have a couple of options. First, if you were planning on polishing the paint with a machine, may be best to go to that step - which would eliminate whatever is there. Second, if that doesn't seem plausible then you may need a more aggressive clay.

its new car that had few hundred miles and been in outside in the lot for awhile. I think lot of test drives etc. I've been using mothers california gold kit and used mckees rinseless as lube but maybe should use the lube it came with but don't think it matters.

Is this more of a mild clay then? Which isn't bad cause I won't worry about marring too much etc.

Least i'm seeing some results and kind of getting hands on experience hahah just don't want to make huge mistakes that will be costly

[Rsurfer]

Well second time around put bit more pressure and i can feel specks going away. And its less waxy feel and more glass cleaned from dawn soap etc which im guessing is working. I might have to do couple more passses as it seems the dealer didnt put any wax and i didnt either and obly put meguiar quick spray wax every week or so

Question is .. doing multiple passes and little and added pressure while claying should be fine right ?Very light pressure Ill be polishing after practicing in my other car but meanwhile ill do claying then put wax then when it comes to polish ill strip wax and probally clay one fonal time then polishDon't over do it. No need to strip the spray wax or clay again. The polishing step will take care of that.


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[animescreen]

:props:

Adding little more pressure helped get rid of the dot specks im feeling with baggie though. (Of course im lubing it always as i go) i just think this car was never clayed and waxed to be honest lol so it requires multiple passes.

And dont mind if it strips the spray wax cause i just reapray it after wards. Just want these dust specks gone and then polish and fine routine . Its fun process i admit right now as im learning things here and there


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[SWETM]

How many passes over the same spot did you do first time you clayed? And how did the clay looked when you finished a section and to refold to a new fresh clay side?

Just the pressure so you don't drop it is enough. It's about how many times you pass with the clay. Then to refold it regualary so you have enough of sticky clay that can be picking up the contaminants.

Sometimes on paints with very much contaminants it's a benefit to use a more aggressive clay bar. As you need less aggitations with this vs a mild clay bar. So much depending on the level of contaminants you have on the paint which clay is more effective. Even with the aggressive clay it can be less aggressive on the paint when you have very much of contaminants. That's also why a chemical decon is a benefit to minimize the contaminants the clay needs to be picking up. If you have a lot of tar spots and or tree sap a tar remover is of benefit to use. If you have a lot of iron particals and industrial fallout an iron remover is of benefit to use. And these desolves more than just what they are specific made for. As a tar remover also desolve a good amount of the imbedded road film for an example. The industrial fallout is hard to see if you have on the car. So a test spot on a horisontall panel and see if you get that more uniform lighter bleeding reaction from it than the more concentrated bleeding reaction from the iron particals. This makes the claying much easier to do and less aggitations to get it smooth and clean. And it's different from time to time when claying as it's picking up different kind of dirt and contaminants depending on where you have driven and parked the car between claying.

[animescreen]

I passed it back and forth 2 to 3x in one secton (just back and forth method and not lot of pressure) then wiped it off with mf towel and waterless solution. Dried with new mf towel then kneeded the clay and did it second time around and see much imrovement and paint seems to be streaky dry feeling . But still little more specs after baggie test.

Im wondering if the quick meguiar spray i put on weekly is what is being stripped and the contaminents were on top of the quick spray wax and not the clearcoat

But yeah i was gonna do iron x and tar remover first but wanted to test a spot to see how bad it is at moment. Iron x i saw it cant be on chrome or plastic etc so taping up all these areas as well.
Unleas chrome and iron x is ok?


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[2black1s]

2-3 passes is not nearly enough to remove anything other than the lightest of contaminants. I'd say 20-30 passes would be more like it.

It's really a trial and error thing until you find the sweet spot for what it takes to remove all, or nearly all, of the bonded contaminants - but 2-3 passes is nowhere in the ballpark by my experience.

[animescreen]

2-3 passes is not nearly enough to remove anything other than the lightest of contaminants. I'd say 20-30 passes would be more like it.

It's really a trial and error thing until you find the sweet spot for what it takes to remove all, or nearly all, of the bonded contaminants - but 2-3 passes is nowhere in the ballpark by my experience.

Whoa thats great news haha i dont mind time it takes nor if my arm will get tired or even bordeom sets in. Long as it gets smooth im all in. Didnt realize you can do that many passes . Is it ideal to coaybar and have other with baggie to check as you go and stop when its in the cleAr?


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[animescreen]

2-3 passes is not nearly enough to remove anything other than the lightest of contaminants. I'd say 20-30 passes would be more like it.

It's really a trial and error thing until you find the sweet spot for what it takes to remove all, or nearly all, of the bonded contaminants - but 2-3 passes is nowhere in the ballpark by my experience.

Do you personally stop once baggie test is cleared ? If there is few bumps here and there you continue or stop


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[PaulMys]

Do you personally stop once baggie test is cleared ? If there is few bumps here and there you continue or stop


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Once the paint feels smooth, go ahead and machine polish.

One or two noticeable "bumps" will be polished away.

[2black1s]

Do you personally stop once baggie test is cleared ? If there is few bumps here and there you continue or stop


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Personally, I look for about 90-95% improvement during the clay process. The baggie test is so sensitive that absolute perfection is not a realistic goal.

[SWETM]

I passed it back and forth 2 to 3x in one secton (just back and forth method and not lot of pressure) then wiped it off with mf towel and waterless solution. Dried with new mf towel then kneeded the clay and did it second time around and see much imrovement and paint seems to be streaky dry feeling . But still little more specs after baggie test.

Im wondering if the quick meguiar spray i put on weekly is what is being stripped and the contaminents were on top of the quick spray wax and not the clearcoat

But yeah i was gonna do iron x and tar remover first but wanted to test a spot to see how bad it is at moment. Iron x i saw it cant be on chrome or plastic etc so taping up all these areas as well.
Unleas chrome and iron x is ok?


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Most likely you did not do enough of passes. And don't be afraid that the clay would level down clearcoat. It is abrasive but just so much that you get so fine of scratches that they are not visible by the eye. When they come up to certain amount you will see it like fading or dullness in the paint. This is clay marring. And it takes not much to polishing them off.

A tips that I go by and what's useally recommended. Is that when you start to aggitate with the clay you feel like a resistance from it. And the more passes you do the easier does the clay goes over the paint. This is that it's keep picking up contaminants when you have the resistance and when this resistance is gone you have a contaminant free paint. Do a baggie test and you will feel a smooth surface.

When you do the whole car you will feel more resistance on places where contaminants builds up. And less where you it don't build up. Sometimes you hit a place where it should feels less resistance and there is more this can be from an old tree sap spot or something. Look at the contaminants you pick up with the clay and you can see if you most black color it's tar and sot and road film for an example. If you have lighter colors and at the orange color it's iron particals and industrial fallout. Also if you have a lot of contaminants on the clay when done with the section you clayed you can work in a smaller section to get more effective. And if you don't have much contaminants on it you can do larger sections. So much is going by feeling. And doing the baggie test very gently when done with the section you get a feel of when you have gotten all contaminants off by the feel you have then with almost non resistance.

What I mentioned before if you need to be aggitate a lot with the clay. You need less of aggitations with a more aggressive clay bar. You can be needed sometimes to ad more clay lube so you always has smooth glide when you have picked up the contaminants. Otherwise it's hard to get the feeling from the resistance with to little of clay lube. As you feel now when you have clayed it's very sticky. Clay lube is for creating a very thin film for letting the clay glide over the paint. And it will put away the extra clay lube. So better with a little extra clay lube than too little of it. You can almost see if you use too little as you get dry streaks in the trace where you have passed with the clay. This can make some clay to be leaving clay on the paint. And that then comes in your polishing pad. Also a bigger risk to get clay marring if you use too little of clay lube. You will get the feel of how much is needed the more claying you do. So just keep on doing it.

[57Rambler]

But yeah i was gonna do iron x and tar remover first but wanted to test a spot to see how bad it is at moment. Iron x i saw it cant be on chrome or plastic etc so taping up all these areas as well.

Straight from CarPro's webpage on Iron X :


It can be used on paint, plastic, chrome, glass, and alloy wheels.

Safe to use on Aluminum, Chrome, Alloy, or Clear coated wheels.

Safe for use on all solid car surfaces and will not deteriorate clear coats. (Avoid using on Fabric Convertible tops)


The one thing you want to avoid with Iron X (or similar products) is allowing it to dry on any surface.