Newbie learning paint correction/glazing, Looking for knowledge and opinion

[kamisn]

Newbie learning paint correction/glazing, Looking for knowledge and opinion


Hi there, I am original owner of a 2006 Murano in silver with wear and tear of a 13 years old car and I am getting to wear off the fear of polishing and shining my cars with DA and tools. I have new Infiniti that has replaced my Murano and I am wanting to use the Murano as test car and experimenting to learn. The car only has one portion of rear fender painted and the rest of the paint is the original paint. Paint in general is in good shape except stone chips on the hood and dulled paint on bumpers and rear hatch (hatch is plastic).

Per local Chemical guys detail supply shop advice I picked up their 32 and 36 polishes plus 5 inch pads and used the car's hood to see what I can do.

I started with 32 and orange foam pad to do the heavier cut followed by 36 and white pad (all chemical guys supplies) and eventually coated it with CG butter liquid wax on a red foam pad.

I have attached the picture that you can see the difference between fender and the hood, but somehow I wasn't impressed with the results.

Is it possible to reach the same or better results with one stage of correction with maybe a different compound and foam pad? I may be totally unreasonable, but I was expecting better results with the two stage off buffing.

As I mentioned this was my first attempt and meanwhile I am reading forums to learn more.

67535

67536

[Mike Phillips]

Per local Chemical guys detail supply shop advice I picked up their 32 and 36 polishes plus 5 inch pads and used the car's hood to see what I can do.

I started with 32 and orange foam pad to do the heavier cut followed by 36 and white pad (all chemical guys supplies) and eventually coated it with CG butter liquid wax on a red foam pad.

I have attached the picture that you can see the difference between fender and the hood, but somehow I wasn't impressed with the results.




For your first time - congratulations! It's a huge undertaking to tackle an entire car let alone a SUV your first time.


Without being there in person, it's hard to say what, if anything, could be the issue. I would say that it's been a few years since I used the CG V series of compounds and polishes but at that time, I was not impressed with the abrasive technology. If you read my articles and replies to questions on this forum long enough you'll notice I invest a lot of time talking about abrasive technology. A lot of guys on this forum say technique is the most important factor. I say a lot of the guys on this forum because only forum members can vote in a Poll and check out the results of the poll I posted.


POLL - What's the number one most important factor when it comes to polishing paint? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/98943-poll-what-s-number-one-most-important-factor-when-comes-polishing-paint.html)

So... what do I know?



But if you want to troubleshoot your results my recommendation would be to,

A: Try a different brand of abrasive technology.

B: Either wash your buffing pads in the washing machine and get the old abrasive technology out of them or get new pads for the next time. You don't want to test out different products only to contaminate them with the first-use products.



:)

[Mike Phillips]

More help....


Here's an example of abrasive technology not working. Take a moment to read through the entire thread.

Newb needing some assistance (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/123442-newb-needing-some-assistance.html)




Here's an example of different abrasive technology fixing the micro-marring inflicted by the first-use product. Take a moment to read through the entire thread.

Updated - Blackfire One Step makes a newb not feel like a newb...amazing product (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/123566-updated-blackfire-one-step-makes-newb-not-feel-like-newb-amazing-product.html)



When it comes to polishing paint - the most important factor, the factor that will 100% determine the end visual results starts with what's touching the paint and that is the abrasive technology.


Also just to note - your thread here, I've been typing out help for issues like you described over and over again professionally since 2002. This is certainly not the first time someone has joined this forum with a post like yours and in most cases, when the paint just isn't looking right... I start troubleshooting with the stuff that's touching the paint.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Too bad you missed it, I was just in your state a few weeks ago teaching a class. I only use products I would trust on BLACK paint in my classes.


10 cars detailed in 2 days! Texas Roadshow Detailing Class! (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/autogeek-roadshow-detailing-classes/123396-10-cars-detailed-2-days-texas-roadshow-detailing-class.html)


Here's the FIRST two cars the class trained on. They have something in common besides being 2-door Chevys.


YOU are on your feet because you are doing the work.



1961 Corvette

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3836/Austin_Detail_Class_001.jpg



2011 Corvette

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3836/Austin_Detail_Class_002.jpg


:)

[kamisn]

More help....


Here's an example of abrasive technology not working. Take a moment to read through the entire thread.

Newb needing some assistance (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/123442-newb-needing-some-assistance.html)




Here's an example of different abrasive technology fixing the micro-marring inflicted by the first-use product. Take a moment to read through the entire thread.

Updated - Blackfire One Step makes a newb not feel like a newb...amazing product (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/123566-updated-blackfire-one-step-makes-newb-not-feel-like-newb-amazing-product.html)



When it comes to polishing paint - the most important factor, the factor that will 100% determine the end visual results starts with what's touching the paint and that is the abrasive technology.


Also just to note - your thread here, I've been typing out help for issues like you described over and over again professionally since 2002. This is certainly not the first time someone has joined this forum with a post like yours and in most cases, when the paint just isn't looking right... I start troubleshooting with the stuff that's touching the paint.


:)

Thanks Mike, as I was suspicious and you mentioned and the subject treads, no quality pads and polish was the main reason of not getting the results I was expecting.

My DA is Torq 10FX with 5.5 backing, I guess now I need to get the right pads and compound that was pointed out in the treads to fix this.

[Mike Phillips]

My DA is Torq 10FX with 5.5 backing,



I have just one of these tools in our garage. It works but it's on par with the Porter Cable in that it's a tick on the weak side.

Don't know if you did this or not but above all, to get this tool to remove defects the pad MUST rotate. This is a free spinning random orbital polisher. At full speed it will both rotate and oscillate a buffing pad. BUT, if you don't see the pad rotating then it doesn't matter how much the pad oscillates, you're not doing anything. So mark your backing plate and the sides of your buffing pads to make it easy for your eyes to monitor pad rotation when buffing.

See these articles,

Just remember - when using your Duetto, if you are trying to remove below surface paint defects, that is swirls, scratches and water spots, then you must maintain pad rotation. IF the pad on any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher is not rotating (and oscillating), then you are not doing anything. By this I mean, you are not removing defects. You cannot effectively remove defects if all the pad is doing is vibrating against the paint.


Check out these two articles and put what they show into practice from the very start.


How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/122544-how-monitor-pad-rotation-mark-your-buffing-pads.html)

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/49489-video-mark-your-backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html)



Send me your shipping address and I'll send you a product to use. I trust the abrasive technology it uses and I'm sure together with good pad rotation you'll see defect-free, super shiny paint.



:)

[Kamakaz1961]

Not bad for your 1st time! I agree with Mike, I HAVE USED Chemical Guys V-Series as well as a few other products and no longer use them. IMO there are many other brands that are SUPERIOR to Chemical Guys. I like the Menzerna FG400 for Compound and their Superfinish 3500/3800 and that is my Go-to. Either way you did good!

[kamisn]

I have just one of these tools in our garage. It works but it's on par with the Porter Cable in that it's a tick on the weak side.

Don't know if you did this or not but above all, to get this tool to remove defects the pad MUST rotate. This is a free spinning random orbital polisher. At full speed it will both rotate and oscillate a buffing pad. BUT, if you don't see the pad rotating then it doesn't matter how much the pad oscillates, you're not doing anything. So mark your backing plate and the sides of your buffing pads to make it easy for your eyes to monitor pad rotation when buffing.

See these articles,

Just remember - when using your Duetto, if you are trying to remove below surface paint defects, that is swirls, scratches and water spots, then you must maintain pad rotation. IF the pad on any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher is not rotating (and oscillating), then you are not doing anything. By this I mean, you are not removing defects. You cannot effectively remove defects if all the pad is doing is vibrating against the paint.


Check out these two articles and put what they show into practice from the very start.


How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/122544-how-monitor-pad-rotation-mark-your-buffing-pads.html)

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/49489-video-mark-your-backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html)



Send me your shipping address and I'll send you a product to use. I trust the abrasive technology it uses and I'm sure together with good pad rotation you'll see defect-free, super shiny paint.



:)

Yea I noticed the machine only goes up to 4 rather than 6 and I knew about the marking the backer by reading the articles here but I guess I never thought about it the way you explained. So do you think the DA is still ok to do my project with right pad?

I appreciate you Mike, I will PM you my address. Would you also send me the link which pads and how many I may need for one car? I was confused/overwhelmed with number of available options available for the pads. In the article it was suggested to use Lake country pads.

Thanks again!

[kamisn]

Not bad for your 1st time! I agree with Mike, I HAVE USED Chemical Guys V-Series as well as a few other products and no longer use them. IMO there are many other brands that are SUPERIOR to Chemical Guys. I like the Menzerna FG400 for Compound and their Superfinish 3500/3800 and that is my Go-to. Either way you did good!

It’s not that bad but not good either, plus it took me three stages to take it to this level which I don’t think is good for the paint and plus I spent at least hour and half to do just the hood! Lol!

[mckobe]

I have just one of these tools in our garage. It works but it's on par with the Porter Cable in that it's a tick on the weak side.

Don't know if you did this or not but above all, to get this tool to remove defects the pad MUST rotate. This is a free spinning random orbital polisher. At full speed it will both rotate and oscillate a buffing pad. BUT, if you don't see the pad rotating then it doesn't matter how much the pad oscillates, you're not doing anything. So mark your backing plate and the sides of your buffing pads to make it easy for your eyes to monitor pad rotation when buffing.

See these articles,

Just remember - when using your Duetto, if you are trying to remove below surface paint defects, that is swirls, scratches and water spots, then you must maintain pad rotation. IF the pad on any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher is not rotating (and oscillating), then you are not doing anything. By this I mean, you are not removing defects. You cannot effectively remove defects if all the pad is doing is vibrating against the paint.


Check out these two articles and put what they show into practice from the very start.


How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/122544-how-monitor-pad-rotation-mark-your-buffing-pads.html)

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/49489-video-mark-your-backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html)



Send me your shipping address and I'll send you a product to use. I trust the abrasive technology it uses and I'm sure together with good pad rotation you'll see defect-free, super shiny paint.



:)

Just tell him to get the BEAST and be done with it

[PaulMys]

It’s not that bad but not good either, plus it took me three stages to take it to this level which I don’t think is good for the paint and plus I spent at least hour and half to do just the hood! Lol!

There is nothing like that first time you have all of your products (Good ones after owning sub-par) and apply them to the paint, work them, wipe them off, and have that HOLY $hIt!!! moment.

You kind of kick yourself a little for not doing it sooner, but the elation of having the "Right Stuff" and knowing what can be done with them is amazing.

Then, you keep trying new products and getting better at it. ;)

[Mike Phillips]

Send me your shipping address and I'll send you a product to use.



I sent you a medium cut polish and a one step cleaner/wax. Was going to include some fresh pads but forgot the pads.


Use both with a foam "polishing" pad and either will fix your car's paint. With the polish you will need to apply a wax or sealant over it. If you want to install a coating, you'll need to chemically strip and then coat.

With the cleaner/wax, it's one and done.


:)

[Jayfro]

Kamisn....

I'm the newb that posted "Newb needing some assistance" on the first page that Mike posted. I believe you will be pleasantly surprised (understatement of the year) when your package arrives, I was! I am firm believer (now) that the most important thing is the abrasive technology that is in the products, I learned this the hard way. The people on this forum are absolutely incredibly helpful as well as Mike P, we/they are always here to help since we've all been there, they've saved my tail a few times and I've learned so much from everyone to this day!

I just finished a three-step on my best friends black audi, I credit this to everyone on AGO with the tips about product, technique, etc...that they gave me, trust me I used everyone one of them, I was just holding the DA and moving it back and forth!!

Being new to this "world" it is a very rewarding hobby/profession and as PaulMys said..."There is nothing like that first time you have all of your products (Good ones after owning sub-par) and apply them to the paint, work them, wipe them off, and have that HOLY $hIt!!! moment."

One of the many things I've learned on AGO, if you're unsure about a step or process during a detail, STOP and go to AGO and research it before moving on, I bet you can find it pretty quick!

Good Luck
Jay

[kamisn]

I sent you a medium cut polish and a one step cleaner/wax. Was going to include some fresh pads but forgot the pads.


Use both with a foam "polishing" pad and either will fix your car's paint. With the polish you will need to apply a wax or sealant over it. If you want to install a coating, you'll need to chemically strip and then coat.

With the cleaner/wax, it's one and done.


:)

Awesome! Thank you so much Mike!!! I ordered some white and black pads last night and will get them soon. I will do my best attempt to correct the paint as it we discussed.

Thanks again Mike!

[kamisn]

Kamisn....

I'm the newb that posted "Newb needing some assistance" on the first page that Mike posted. I believe you will be pleasantly surprised (understatement of the year) when your package arrives, I was! I am firm believer (now) that the most important thing is the abrasive technology that is in the products, I learned this the hard way. The people on this forum are absolutely incredibly helpful as well as Mike P, we/they are always here to help since we've all been there, they've saved my tail a few times and I've learned so much from everyone to this day!

I just finished a three-step on my best friends black audi, I credit this to everyone on AGO with the tips about product, technique, etc...that they gave me, trust me I used everyone one of them, I was just holding the DA and moving it back and forth!!

Being new to this "world" it is a very rewarding hobby/profession and as PaulMys said..."There is nothing like that first time you have all of your products (Good ones after owning sub-par) and apply them to the paint, work them, wipe them off, and have that HOLY $hIt!!! moment."

One of the many things I've learned on AGO, if you're unsure about a step or process during a detail, STOP and go to AGO and research it before moving on, I bet you can find it pretty quick!

Good Luck
Jay

Yea you definitely did awesome from what I saw in your post. I guess you are not Newbie anymore! Lol!

I am actually OCD when comes to my car and learning these detailing tricks will help me to take care of it much better!!