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animescreen
07-27-2019, 06:18 PM
Gonna do the works next week (minus polish) and need to get a claybar. I had mothers and meguiars before and probally will get that but wondering if there is ones I should consider as well. I know there is the more easier ones out there like the glove you wear etc.. Which i will get too but still like to do few more rounds with the regular clary etc.

Other question is, after I do claybar, is it important to buff out or quick detail water spots or streaks or it will show when covering with wax?

expdetailing
07-27-2019, 07:13 PM
Personally, I would get the FINE grade clay bar from Pinnacle or BlackFire. I would not use Meguiars, or Mothers. I think those two are a little more aggressive than the Fine poly clay offered by Pinnacle & BlackFire.
Secondly, I've had better luck with less marring using fine clay vs synthetic clay. Also, yes it would be advisable to wipe down the area after you clayed in order to ensure the area is spot free & well prepared for waxing/sealing.

Bruno Soares
07-27-2019, 07:17 PM
What color is your car? I ask because unless it’s white or silver and without a ton of experience I bet you’ll leave visible marring on the paint. If you’re not planning on polishing I’d skip claying.
The ones you mentioned are fine but people seem to use clay alternatives more these days. Mitts, towels, sponges. Many options here at AG. Definitely get a fine grade as your car is new.

MarkD51
07-27-2019, 07:20 PM
Both the Mothers and Meguiars are good, I've used them both.

Pinnacle Blue Poly Clay is a very good one, is probably the mildest of all clays.

Probably a good idea to at least do a wipe down with clear water after claying. I always do prior to doing any other following steps.

I'm no lab technician to say yes or no that a clay lube might impede proper bonding of a wax or sealant, but it might be possible? Maybe others might comment some.

dpevans
07-27-2019, 08:23 PM
First step is wash the car then do an inspection. (do you need to fix swirl marks, do you care?) Then bug and tar remover, wash places you hit with tar remover. Revised: forgot the IronX step, Then clay bar and use a generous amount of clay lube. I use fine clay and if you are marring you are doing it wrong. Then wash, clean and make sure car is dry, use a blow dryer to get all water. Then you decide if you need or want to do a paint correction or just apply polish with a polishing pad. when you complete the process use a IPA that removes all correction and polish residue. Then apply sealant, ceramic, or wax. But always use IPA before you apply whatever protection you decide to use. Mike Phillips has a complete section and very good educational videos on every aspect of detailing.

2wookies
07-27-2019, 09:47 PM
Why not polish after?!


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animescreen
07-27-2019, 09:49 PM
Why not polish after?!


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Have to practice first as I haven’t done it yet will practice on my Mazda 3 after reading mikes book and YouTube’s . Then do it on my x3 after . Practice makes perfect right lol


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VISITOR
07-27-2019, 10:17 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c8L9WwwjFY

dpevans
07-28-2019, 12:04 AM
When I say polish I use a DA and a product like Meguiars Ultra Polish with a white pad. This is the last step in any correction. It can also be done by itself. After you polish you want to protect the paint you have just so spent so much time getting to shine. Polishing does not protect, it creates shine. you could also use a one step.

SWETM
07-28-2019, 01:38 AM
No problems to clay and wait until you are ready to polishing with the DA. Apply a spray wax/QD to protect your paint until you are polishing it. The Pinnacle Poly Clay fine grade seems to be a nice one. If you want get a dedicated clay lube I would recommend Dodo Juice Born Slippy clay lube concentrate or Carpro Immolube. The lubrication from these ones is impresive. And helps you to get less chance of clay marring. Also folding the clay bar often is another way to be holding down the marring.

I do a chemical decon with a tar remover and iron remover if needed. This helps you get the claying easier done. An iron remover at least to get the iron particals easier off than claying alone. Even new cars can have a lot of iron particals and industrial fallout in it's paint. If you where to notice no color changing when you apply the iron remover you can save it for later.

Many ways to go and this just how I do it and sees on it.

animescreen
08-05-2019, 08:13 PM
When I say polish I use a DA and a product like Meguiars Ultra Polish with a white pad. This is the last step in any correction. It can also be done by itself. After you polish you want to protect the paint you have just so spent so much time getting to shine. Polishing does not protect, it creates shine. you could also use a one step.

So you polish in garage? Anyone do outside?

I’m not sure what it means when detailed say one step or two step lol


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animescreen
08-05-2019, 08:16 PM
No problems to clay and wait until you are ready to polishing with the DA. Apply a spray wax/QD to protect your paint until you are polishing it. The Pinnacle Poly Clay fine grade seems to be a nice one. If you want get a dedicated clay lube I would recommend Dodo Juice Born Slippy clay lube concentrate or Carpro Immolube. The lubrication from these ones is impresive. And helps you to get less chance of clay marring. Also folding the clay bar often is another way to be holding down the marring.

I do a chemical decon with a tar remover and iron remover if needed. This helps you get the claying easier done. An iron remover at least to get the iron particals easier off than claying alone. Even new cars can have a lot of iron particals and industrial fallout in it's paint. If you where to notice no color changing when you apply the iron remover you can save it for later.

Many ways to go and this just how I do it and sees on it.

Is there any other Decontamination I should know ?


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dpevans
08-05-2019, 08:53 PM
you cannot polish or do paint correction in the sun. The surface has to be cool to the touch. Maybe on a overcast cooler day you could get away with it but I always do it inside. A one step product does minor paint correction, polish, and protectant at the same time. Thus two step, polish then protect.

animescreen
08-05-2019, 08:54 PM
So two step is more time consuming but better way for protection?


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57Rambler
08-05-2019, 08:56 PM
I’m not sure what it means when detailed say one step or two step lol


One step = Use a product like Blackfire One Step where a single product will remove paint imperfections, polish, and leave a protective coating.

Three step = Use a separate compound to remove paint imperfections, a separate polish to perfect the paint finish, and a separate product to protect the paint.