Pictures: Autogeek’s Roadshow Class with PRAXIS Detailing in Auburn, Indiana

[Praxis IN]

Mike

I'd Had a Great Time and took in a Lot of info.

Meet a Lot Great People and made friends in the Process. Vast amount of Info was Shared, and a Great learning Experience.

Thank You so much for Your Time and to the Host Mike Liebing as well.

The Equipment Used was Great and Learn how To used Each One .

The Cars were of a vast varieties, and Learn how to make One, 100% Better then when we started , with Great People as a Team to make them look Great.


Thank You to the Team and to Both Mike's

Roger Clark


:dblthumb2: Hey Roger thanks for bringing your cars and being motivated to help in any way, nice to have you at the class.

[SWETM]

Awesome work Team! And many cool and beutieful cars you worked on!

Great to learn by doing hands on teaching. And Mike Phillips is an awesome guy and really does something extra ordinary with his classes.

Thanks for shareing the 2-day detailing class with us.

/ Tony

[Mike Phillips]

Got any pics of the Goat's 389 engine ?

:drool:




Getting some....


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Here's another topic we cover at ALL our car detailing classes and that is,


How to correctly clean and protect a canvas convertible top


Our classes include,

3-day Bootcamp Classes at Autogeek in Stuart, Florida --> January - May - September

2-Day Roadshow Classes - All across the United States of America


>>> Click here for info on upcoming car and boat detailing classes (https://www.autogeek.net/detail-classes.html) <<<<



Now onto the convertible top this class washed and protected on the 2004 Ford Thunderbird.




Step 1: Wash, clean and dry the top.


Vacuum loose dirt out of the weave.
Blow-out loose dirt out of the weave.
Blass off loose dirt using a strong spray of water
Spray RaggTopp Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner (https://www.autogeek.net/rafacl.html) onto top.
Agitate RaggTopp Cleaner using the RaggTopp Convertible Top Brush (https://www.autogeek.net/raggtopp-premium-top-brush.html)
Thoroughly rinse all loosened dirt and road grime off the top until water sprayed on top runs clear.
Move car where top will remain clean and fully dry.




Spraying RaggTopp Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner onto top after first rinsing and wetting the top.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_030.JPG



After spraying the cloth top down with the RaggTopp cleaner, the class then uses the RaggTopp and Haartz Convertible top brushes (https://www.autogeek.net/raggtopp-premium-top-brush.html) to safely scrub the cloth fibers that make-up the top.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_031.JPG





After thoroughly rinsing, the blotting technique is shown for safely drying a cloth top. We also go over the reason WHY to use the blotting technique. Then the class uses Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel (https://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html) to safely dry the water off and out of the top via capillary action.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_032.JPG





Step 2: Spray RaggTopp Fabric Protectant onto top.


Hold spray about 8" to 10" away from top and lay down a heavy or wet application.
Hold can so product sprays inward toward top to avoid overspray onto glass and body panels. (it will wipe off)
Spray extra product onto any visible stitching.
Wearing safety nitrile gloves, gently massage the product INTO the fabric.
Allow product to fully dry and repeat until you empty the can on your car's top.



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_162.JPG



Here's Armando and Luis spraying the T-bird top with RaggTopp Fabric Protectant.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_163.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_164.JPG

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http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_166.JPG



This is what a heavy or wet application looks like. Kind of looks like morning dew on the top.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_167.JPG



Mike Phillips Technique

The original directions state to let the product dry and then re-apply. In my way of thinking, I don't what the product sitting on TOP of the fabric drying, I want it INSIDE the fabric drying. So with the blessing of Rick Goldstein, (owner of RaggTopp), I show people to first put on some safety gloves and then massage the product into the weave of the cloth.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_168.JPG



All colors of cloth
It's easy to see the dramatic before and after sides of the product sitting on the surface and where I've worked it INTO the cloth because this cloth top is BLACK. You should also do this for all other colors of cloth tops even though on lighter colores like white and tan cloth tops it's harder to see this before and after difference. The BIG PICTURE is to work the product in no matter what the color.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_169.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_170.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_171.JPG



Here's Luis working the product into the cloth on the passenger side.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_172.JPG



Here's the end results.

The cloth has a darker, fresher factory new look. Plus the waterproofing is restored and UV protection is restored.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_173.JPG




:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued.....


BEFORE

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_026.JPG




AFTER

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_173.JPG





Now onto the NEXT topic we cover at our classes...


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


RUPES Detailing Academy - Roadshow Style!


Ever since Autogeek brought the RUPES line of tools into the Autogeek Store I've been showcasing the RUPES tools as a system. That's because if you read my how-to book,

How to use the RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing System (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Frupes-system-book.html)
(for production detailing and show car detailing)

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/587/300_4_book.jpg


I explain that RUPES is not merely a tool, it's a complete and well-thought out paint polishing system. I probably have more how-to articles and reviews on RUPES products than anyone breathing. And as a professional courtesy to RUPES - I always show their tools with their pads and their products and do my best to stay on the RUPES message. (I also do this for all tool and product manufactures, it's my training from my days at Meguiar's)




Building on a foundation

I start (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/autogeek-roadshow-detailing-classes/123912-pictures-autogeek-s-roadshow-class-praxis-detailing-auburn-indiana-2.html#post1642403) all my car detailing classes with simple, 8mm free spinning random orbital polishers. The current tool I showcase is the Griot's 6" Random Orbital Polisher. This is basically a version of the ORIGINAL tool for the 8mm free spinning random orbital polishers and that is the Porter Cable 7424 and 7336 units. We sell both polishers here at Autogeek but the fact is - the Griot's version simply has a TON more usable power.

The BIG PICTURE being, I have people attend my classes from all walks of life from being brand new to detailing and machine polishing to being seasoned professionals. No matter what their background I start them out with what I consider to be the easiest tool to learn how to use and master and that's 2 things. Even Pros learn tips and techniques when I go over 8mm free spinning random orbital polishers.

After we build the foundation for right and wrong techniques - NEXT we move onto the RUPES line of polishers. I NEVER say RUPES or any brand of long stroke polisher is more difficult to use than the simple 8mm tools, but I do think that they require a tick more technique and skill to maximize their potential. Read that carefully because I'm a veteran of the Zaino vs NXT Wax Wars and every word I type online I pick with purpose. If I write it - I can defend it. No one takes what I write apart over a single word.




The RUPES Tools

The BigFoot electric polishers include,

21mm BigFoot Legacy, Mark II and Mark III
15mm BigFoot Legacy, Mark II and Mark III
12mm Duetto and Mini


The RUPES Mille
RUPES also has introduced a 5mm gear-driven orbital polisher. It is not referred to as a RANDOM orbital polisher because the gear-drive means a FIXED orbit pattern. Free spinning orbital polishers, because they are NOT gear-driven results in a RANDOM orbital pattern and that's because they are not gear-driven the backing plate and pad can make random orbital patterns depending upon a number of factors like,



Tool speed.
Pad size, thickness and weight.
Technique - how the tool is held.
Shape of body panel.
Etcetera



The Mille is "like" the FLEX XC 3401 aka the BEAST except that the BEAST offers an 8mm gear-driven orbit pattern. So,

Mille = 5mm orbit pattern

BEAST = 8mm orbit pattern


I let the students use ALL the tools and let them decide which tools they like and that includes these two powerful gear-driven orbital polishers.


RUPES Nano
RUPES also offers the very cool Nano polisher in long and short neck versions. I bring both versions to the class. The Nano tools come with 3 different swappable drive units called orbit connector and/or eccentric set. By choosing which swappable connector or unit you install into the head of the Nano you can choose from one of the below 3 drive options.

3mm free spinning random orbit connector
12mm free spinning random orbit connector
Rotary pattern eccentric set

Here's my article on their with pictures and more info.

RUPES Terms - Eccentric Set and Orbit Connector - Nano iBrid Tools (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/rupes-bigfoot-oribital-polishers/101488-rupes-terms-eccentric-set-orbit-connector-nano-ibrid-tools.html)


And if you ever purchase a RUPES Nano - be sure to read this before making a mistake.

RUPES 2" Backing Plate not for use with the rotary connector and the RUPES Nano iBrid in Rotary Mode (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/rupes-bigfoot-oribital-polishers/101487-rupes-2-backing-plate-not-use-rotary-connector-rupes-nano-ibrid.html)




RUPES Rotary Polisher

I have 1 RUPES rotary polisher in the entire collection of tools at Autogeek. I have LOTS of corded and cordless FLEX PE14 rotary polishers as FLEX provided these free of no charge. FLEX knows how hands-on my classes are and takes advantage of this touch point to get their tools into the hands their target market. During the RUPES detailing session we don't use the RUPES rotary polisher just like we don't use the FLEX PE14s during the FLEX detailing session. I reserve rotary buffers for the wetsanding class when yu learn the most efficient tools to use to remove sanding marks.

If you want more info on the RUPES rotary polisher or you would like to see some pictures, check out my review

Review: RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher by Mike Phillips at Autogeek (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Ftinyurl.com%2Fyay7k3ty)



Now that I've covered some background information about RUPES tools and how our classes flow, let's take a look at the pictures taken as the class detailed 2 more cars at this Roadshow Car Detailing Class



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


The RUPES Paint Polishing System


For this RUPES hands-on detailing class we're going to be working on two BLACK cars. Don't they say BLACK PAINT is the hardest to correct and make perfect?

So let's put RUPES to the test.

The training cars for the RUPES class are the 2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS and a 2005 Ford Thunderbird Convertible.


First let's take a look at the Monte Carlo.


Micro-Marring

Here's how the hood looked. What you're seeing in this picture is called micro-marring. Micro-marring is a SPECIFIC scratch-pattern caused by either the abrasive technology or too aggressive of a pad and sometimes from both of these things. It is induced by an ORBITAL polisher, NOT a rotary buffer. Roger owns this Monte Carlo and says this is how the paint was when he purchased the car. This means the last person to detail or machine polish this car is clueless as to what they are doing. They should take this class. :laughing:


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_174.JPG

Here's a recent article I wrote on micro-marring.

Pictures of Micro-Marring - DA Haze - Tick Marks - Compounds - Polishes - AIOs - Clearcoat Paints (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/123669-pictures-micro-marring-da-haze-tick-marks-compounds-polishes-aios-clearcoat-paints.html)






Step 1: Waterless Wash to clean the Monte Carlo

For this we used the BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)




Step 2: Mechanically decontaminate the paint.

For this we used Mothers Detailing Clay and Mothers Instant Detailer

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_175.JPG

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Step 3: Test Spot

As the guy that coined the term Test Spot for the detailing industry, I'm very comfortable explaining why to do one and then how to do one or in some cases, 2 or 3 Test Spots. After doing our Test Spot we found the RUPES Yellow/Yellow was all that was needed to correct the paint and finish out to acceptable, show car results on black paint.




Step 4: Paint correction and perfecting


Pads
For pads we used the RUPES Yellow Polishing Pads (https://www.autogeek.net/rupes-foam-pads.html)

Product
For product we used RUPES Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish 250 ml (https://www.autogeek.net/rupes-car-polish.html)

Tools
Students are allowed and encouraged, and even helped by yours truly to use all of the RUPES tools or at least all the RUPES tools they are interested in using.


Here's Roger and Ronnie working on the hood of the Monte Carlo.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_179.JPG



This looks to be a RUPES BigFoot 15 Legacy model.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_180.JPG



This looks to be a RUPES BigFoot 15 Mark III model.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_181.JPG




In the back are Josh and Eric.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_182.JPG



Eric is using the RUPES Mille with the 5" backing plate and a RUPES yellow BigFoot pad, (not the Mille pad)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_183.JPG



Josh looks like he's using a RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark II model.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_184.JPG


While one team is training on the Monte Carlo,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_185a.JPG


From this shot you can see 2 cars are being detailed at the same time - both using RUPES. My RUPES classes are strictly HANDS-ON. There is no power point and no sitting in chairs.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_185.JPG




Step 5: Chemically Stripping the Paint

To chemically strip the paint we used the BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)




Step 6: Installing the BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating

BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating is a 2 year ceramic paint coating.



Here's Ronnie installing BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating to the front clip of the Monte Carlo.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_186.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_187.JPG



Here you can easily see the ceramic paint coating being wiped onto the paint and flashing...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_187c.JPG




:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...


Now we'll take a look at the T-bird. Earlier in the morning we washed the Ford Thunderbird to clean the fabric top to show the correct way to apply RaggTopp. You can read about this here. While washing the car we also chemically decontaminated the paint and then mechanically decontaminated the paint - so we don't need to do these steps and instead can go right to the Test Spot.


Step 1: Test Spot

Like the Monte Carlo, we found the paint on both cars that it could easily be corrected and perfected using RUPES Yellow/Yellow. When you see the pad and product described like this, it's RUPES LINGO. :)


Step 2: Machine correct and perfect the paint



Here's Mike and Luis working over the hood....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_191.JPG



Looks like Mike is using the RUPES Mille with the dedicated THIN Mille yellow foam polishing pad.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_192.JPG



Looks like Luis is using the RUPES BigFoot 15 Mark II model

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_193.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_194.JPG



At the back of the car, Armando is using the RUPES Mille with what looks like the larger Mille 7" yellow foam polishing pad.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_195.JPG



Down on the passenger side fender is Michael, I can't tell which polisher he's using but looks like either a BigFoot 15 or 21

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_196.JPG



Out back is Jennifer using a Mille and David looks t be using a RUPES BigFoot 15 Legacy model.

NOTE how the canvas cloth top is covered up to protect it using Autogeek Cover-up Towels? That's because we treated it with the RaggTopp Fabric Protectant and we don't want to get any compound or polish splatter onto it.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_197.JPG



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_198.JPG

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Step 3: Chemically Stripping the Paint

To chemically strip the paint we used the BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)




Step 4: Installing the BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating

BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating is a 2 year ceramic paint coating.



Here's Luis installing BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating to the front clip of the Ford Thunderbird.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_200.JPG


Most ceramic coatings have a RAINBOW appearance under the right light when flashing off...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_201.JPG



Pinnacle Black Label Tire Coating was just recently launched so I brought some for the class to test out. Unlike a tire dressing, this product dries to the touch and creates a deep, dark almost plastic appearance with one application. Most tire coatings take multiple applications to create a deep, dark black look.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_202.JPG





:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Here are the results


2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_188.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_189.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_190.JPG



2005 Ford Thunderbird

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_203.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_204.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_205.JPG





RUPES Mastery

And a group shot of the class that mastered the RUPES paint polishing system!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_206.JPG




:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Next up is the Griot's Garage Detailing Class!


Griot's BOSS Long Stroke Orbital Polishers


I like to let the class use the Griot's long stroke BOSS polishers, BOSS pads and BOSS creams immediately after using the RUPES system and let them make up their own mind as to which tools and paint polishing system they like best. And as you'll see - everyone is on their feet working with the tools. No chairs. No sitting.


For this class they will be working on the 1965 Lincoln Continental and the 1939 Lincoln Zypher!



1939 Lincoln Zypher

Step 1: We did a waterless wash using BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)

Step 2: We did the Baggie Test and discovered the paint was lightly contaminated so we used Mother's Detailing Clay plus Nanoskin Towels to mechanically decontaminate the paint, glass and trim.



Here's Jackson using traditional detailing clay to remove above surface bonded contaminants.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_209.JPG



First lubricate the paint using Mothers Instant Detailer

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_210.JPG



Then form the clay bar into a patty and rub it over the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_211.JPG




Step 3: Perform a Test Spot - (no pictures)

Our Test Spot found we needed the Griot's Correction Cream with the BOSS orange foam cutting pad to remove the paint defects to our satisfaction and to restore a true show car finish.



Step 4: Machine compounding using the Griot's BOSS Correction Cream

Below is Eric and Josh using the Griot's BOSS polishers to remove the swirls and scratches.

Note the blanket covering the leather interior to protect it from any splatter dots. :)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_213.JPG

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Here's Jamie removing the swirls and scratches out of the THIN PANEL of paint in-between the trim on the side of the hood.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_216.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_217.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_218.JPG




And then polishing the glass and trim on the emblem...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_219.JPG





Step 4: Machine polishing and SEALING the paint in one step

The Finishing Sealant in the BOSS system is both a fine cut polish plus a synthetic sealant, so technically it's a cleaner/wax or even more technically a

Cleaner/Sealant or AIO

This means it will maximize the gloss and clarity created by the BOSS Correction Cream while sealing the paint in one step.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_2121.jpgf

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_220.JPG

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Jamie and Roger giving the paint a final wipe. In the back is Eric carefully removing tape and the cloth covering the interior.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_223.JPG




1966 Lincoln Continental Convertible


The paint on this car was filled with HOLOGRAMS. I may have some before pictures somewhere, maybe not. But I used this car to share and educate exactly what holograms are by how they look. Just to clarify, holograms are a specific scratch pattern inflicted by a ROTARY BUFFER and only a rotary buffer.


Step 1: Wash the car and decontaminate the paint.

We washed the Continental first thing Saturday morning. This also included properly cleaning the vinyl top using 303 products.

Wheels and tires first

This car has full cover hubcaps and whitewall tires, so we go over tools, products and techniques for these types of wheels and tires.

NOTE: Class - as you read this - remember what we learned about breaking off rubber valve stems and how to avoid this issue. :)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_033.JPG



Properly cleaning a vinyl top

303 Multi-Surface Cleaner is a personal favorite cleaner of mine. I shared the story about my vibrant white tennis shoes and how I stained them before driving to work at Barrett-Jackson this year for Detail Fest and how after trying 2 to 3 other name brand cleaners, that didn't work, I used the 303 Multi-Surface Cleaner and it absolutely removed the orange color from the tongue of my brand new tennis shoes.

In the same way, it SUPRE cleans this dirty, extremely neglected vinyl top.

303 Patio Furniture Cleaner, Multi-Surface Cleaner (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2F303pafu cl.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_034.JPG

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http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_036.JPG




Step 2: Do a Test Spot

Our test spot shows that the BOSS Correcting Cream was more than aggressive enough to remove the holograms.
(no pictures for the test spot)




Step 3: Machine correct the paint

The class used the Griot's BOSS Long Stroke polishers, the BOSS Correcting Cream and the BOSS orange foam cutting pads.


Here's Mike using the BOSS 15 on the hood.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_2241.jpg


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Here's Ronnie using the BOSS 21

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_226.JPG





Here's Michael, (or at least Michael's hand) inspecting his results using the SCANGRIP Sunmatch II swirl finder light.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_226c.JPG



Mike and Dan correcting the hood...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_229.JPG




The teams really start to gel after a few cars....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_227.JPG






Step 4: Machine polishing and SEALING the paint in one step

The Finishing Sealant in the BOSS system is both a fine cut polish plus a synthetic sealant, so technically it's a cleaner/wax or even more technically a

Cleaner/Sealant or AIO

This means it will maximize the gloss and clarity created by the BOSS Correction Cream while sealing the paint in one step.



Here's Jennifer using a yellow BOSS foam polishing pad with the BOSS Finishing Sealant to perfect and seal the paint in one step.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_228.JPG



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


After all the paint correction and sealing was finished, next up we sealed the vinyl top using 303 Protectant. The top had been washed, cleaned and dried first thing in the morning so now the vinyl is perfectly prepared for the 303 protectant.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_230.JPG



Technique Tip
Because the paint, glass and trim have all been polished and sealed, to avoid getting overspray onto these surfaces and then having to wipe them again, here's a techniquie tip, it's real simple but as I always say,

The little things are the big things


To avoid overspray, simply bury the nozzle into a microfiber applicator pad and INJECT the 303 Protectant INTO the foam core inside the applicator pad. This gets the product onto and into the pad.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_231.JPG

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Then as you press the applicator against the vinyl top the foam core will release the product and you have zero overspray on the car.

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Product Tip
Correctly applied you lay down a WET APPLICATION. This means use a lot of product to saturate the vinyl and then massage it into the vinyl.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_235.JPG



After thoroughly massaging the 303 Protectant INTO and over the vinyl top - next wipe the top dry using clean, dry microfiber towels.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_236.JPG



Done!



:)

[Mike Phillips]

More!


Here's the final results for the 1966 Lincoln Continental Convertible

For most hobbyist and Pro Detailers - this is what I call a Bucket List Buff - that is, most people will NEVER get to detail a car like this and then some of us will get to do it at least once. And then we can mark it off our Bucket List of Cars we've detailed in our lives.


1966 Lincoln Continental Convertible

And in case you haven't noticed - this is a HUGE car to tackle! Nice work class!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_237.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_238.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_239.JPG






1939 Lincoln Zypher Convertible

Not only is his car huge but it's also complicated in that it's VERY curvy! Again - top notch work class!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_240.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_241.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_242.JPG




Here's the class that made the Griot's MAGIC happen to these two iconic Lincolns!

This far shot Mike Liebing took because in this shot you get a glimpse of how many tool and products you get to use at an Autogeek detailing class. I guarantee you this - if you look for a picture like the below one, (or actually ANY of the pictures in this thread), that shows what someone else's detailing class looks like and what you get to do and use - you won't find any. None. Zero. Zip. Nada.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_243.JPG





And here's the happy people having fun shot!


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_244.JPG




Very cool.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....

At this point in the class it's now 6:30pm. The class started at 6:30am SHARP.



I took this picture of my watch in the morning,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_019.JPG




And I took this picture after the class was over...

(you can even see compound and polish splatter on the face of my watch from the class)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_245.JPG



That means this has been an INTENSE 12 HOURS of on our feet, hands-on car detailing class. No chairs. No sitting.


The students in the class have washed 3 cars including to convertibles, one with a cloth top and one with a vinyl top and then detailed 6 cars from neglected to respected.


I'd say 60% of the people attending this class are enthusiast or hobbyist and 40% are Pro Detailers or starting a detailing business.


If you like to detail cars, be they your own or for money - you will LOVE this class.


Click here for info on all our classes (https://www.autogeek.net/detail-classes.html)




These are NOT academic classes

The word academic means you sit in a chair and learn from a speaker and a power point presentation.

This class started at 3:30am for me, here's a picture of my watch as I walked out of the hotel to go get the donuts and this very cool boat was parked out front. So I took a picture of it and my watch.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/Z18_Nitro_001.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/Z18_Nitro_002.jpg

More pics of all the boats I saw that morning here...
Yeah buddy! Z18 Nitro (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/123898-yeah-buddy-z18-nitro.html)




Our classes are long. They are fun. You learn a lot. But if you want to sit in a chair - you'll have to go to one of them other car detailing classes.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued.....


Sunday


First thing Sunday morning we washed a staff member's daily driver car so we could use it later for going over One Step Production Detailing. This car was very dirty and also incredibly neglected. It doesn't look like it's been clayed or waxed in 10 years.

2008 Dodge Avenger

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Auburn_004.JPG



Putting a product to the test

A brand new car wash was recently introduced and in my original review, (also the first time I used the product), I mentioned that I was so impressed I would be switching over to this car wash for my own personal cars and I shared that in my second review. Check out my first and second reviews in the links I listed at the very bottom of this post.


The idea being, is this SiO2 car wash will truly lay down a layer of coating each time you use it to wash your car. I knew the Avenger was in super bad condition so I decided to test the car wash out with the class and see if we could get the same results I've been getting on my own.



This car has just be sprayed down with water. The SHINE you see on the hood is water. The water is NOT beading up but laying COMPLETLY FLAT.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_01.JPG



Here's your truly pointing at the new car wash...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_02.JPG



Pouring some into a bucket of clean water.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_03.JPG



Thoroughly mixing the car wash with the water using my mixing stick that I take with me wherever I go.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_04.JPG


Now I'm only going to wash one half of the hood....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_05.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_06.JPG



Here's Mike Liebing, our host rinsing the hood...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_07.JPG



BOOM!
You can easily see wherever the car wash touched the paint the paint is now beading water as though it has been coated.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_08.JPG




Driver's side = Phenomenal water beading in context

There was ZERO water beading before we washed this side of the hood


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_09.JPG



Passenger side - The only water beading is the places the Wolfgang SiO2 Car Wash touched.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3872/Wolfgang_SiO2_Wash_10.JPG



Nice product. It's expensive. I'd recommend buying the gallon next time it's on sale and then mix 2 capfuls to 2-3 gallons of water and CAREFULLY HAND WASH your car.




Here's my original review for this new car wash

Review: Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/123249-review-wolfgang-uber-sio2-coating-wash.html)



Here's a second review I did....

KILLER CAR WASH - Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/123690-killer-car-wash-wolfgang-uber-sio2-coating-wash.html)



:)

[Mike Phillips]

From my original review here,


Review: Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/123249-review-wolfgang-uber-sio2-coating-wash.html)


A couple of things I noticed about this car wash solutions.

1: Very silky and slippery to the touch.
That's what you're looking for from a great car wash solution for any car and especially a coated car.

2: Not a lot of suds.
I'm not a chemist but I think that the ingredients that make the car wash slippery also reduce surface tension, which is what holds a soap bubble together instead of simply popping. So while we all like to see mountains of foamy suds in our car wash I'm pre-warning you you're not going to see that with this car wash soap but you are going to feel the slick, slippery feeling when dunking a wash mitt into your bucket of soapy water and then gliding your wash mitt over the surface of a body panel.

3: Free rinsing
With a coated car and a coating wash, I notice the wash water slips or flies off car body panels fast and without any drag or resistance like some car wash soaps. This simply makes rinsing faster and also saves water.

4: Faster drying.
That's one of the cool things about coated cars. Because water beads-up readily, (and also streams off the body panels), the water would much rather reside in a drying chamois than on a body panel or blow off with a strong blast of air.


If you have a coated car, I'd recommend switching over to a coating wash. Measure out the water in your bucket, (see what I say about the CLEAR buckets below), and then measure out your coating wash solution. Do not use the Glug-Glug method I always joke about. With this wash you want to be precise as too much simply wastes product.



True Maintenance Wash
By simply washing your car, something you're going to do anyways, you can easily and effortlessly maintain a hydrophobic surface that repels water keeping your car cleaner longer and also maintaining the protection.





On Autogeek.com

Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash - 16 ounces (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwolfgan g-uber-sio2-coating-wash.html)

Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash - 1 gallon (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwolfgan g-uber-sio2-coating-wash-128.html)



The car washing essentials
If you have read a lot of my how-to articles and reviews you have no doubt seen in the pictures that every time I wash a car I have certain key tools to help me work fast and efficiently. Below are what I consider the minimum essentials for washing your own car. This doesn't include the brushes and products for washing and cleaning wheels, just for washing the car.

My comments after each item.



Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fgrit-guard-detailing-cart.html)

Most of us wash our cars more than anything else we do to the car besides drive it. Without a car like you see in the pictures above, your bucket is on the ground. Think about how many times the rest of your life you're going to wash your car and then how many times you're going to BEND OVER to dip your wash mitt into your bucket each time you wash your car. That's a lot of bending over. Me? I don't bend over. Get the cart. Choke on the price and get it over with and then thank me later.


Professional 5 Gallon Wash Bucket- CLEAR (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fclear-car-wash-bucket.html)

If you already have a 5-gallon bucket skip this purchase. If you don't, add one to your shopping car and get the clear buckets. They have graduated lines for each gallon of water. This way, if you want 3 gallons or 4 gallons or 2 gallons, the marks are clearly visible on the outside of the bucket so you don't have to guess when you want a specific volume of water.


The Grit Guard Insert (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fgg1010. html)

Grit Guard Washboard (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fgrit-guard-washboard.html)

Both the Grit Guard Insert and the Grit Guard Washboard are essential and I think it should be pretty much self-explanatory as to why.



Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt 4-Pack (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fmicrofi ber-wash-mitt-3pack.html)

Love these mitts. The Chenille mitts Autogeek sells don't fall apart when you wash them in the washing machine and dry them in the dryer. The cheapie mitts you find everywhere else are cheap and after a wash or two they simply fall apart. You can never have to many good, clean wash mitts in reserve in case you drop your current mitt or it gets contaminated with tar or some other offending substance.


3 Pack The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave Towels, 20 x 40 inches (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2F3pacomi wawes1.html)

Million ways to dry a car. These work well and last and last. The are SIMPLE. Don't turn washing and drying your car into Rocket Science.




BEFORE
Zero water beading Zero hydrophobic action

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3845/WolfgangSiO2CoatingWash_01.jpg


AFTER
Hydrophobic Water Beading from ONLY washing with Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3845/WolfgangSiO2CoatingWash_02.jpg



Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3845/aWolf_Uber_SiO2CW_001.JPG






:)