Wash, Iron-X, Clay, Polish, Glaze, Seal then Wax?

[RoyalOud83]

Back when I detailed my 1990 ( Diamond Pearl Black ) Nissan 300zx I used a 3 step system.
After washing:
1) Very light cleaning compound by hand
2) Light hand polish
3) Wax


Looked amazing. And still does today.


But the game has changed. Nowadays theres Iron removers ,sealers, glazes, clays, foam cannons oh my…


This is what I’d like to do with my Blizzard Pearl Avalon.
1. Wash
2. Iron remover
3. Clay
4. Light hand polish
5. Glaze
6. Seal
7. Wax


** I'm willing to put in all the time for the results.

*** I’d like to get your views. Way over kill? Sounds good? Pointless?



************************************************** ***************




It’s been decades since I’ve really got into detailing.
I fell in love with it back in the mid 90’s when I got my 300zx. ( still have it. 99K miles ! ).


Sadly over time I lost that desire ( detailing ) due to moving, college, moving out and renting, becoming a health care professional, mortgage, marriage, kids and… bills.


Matter of fact my daily driver ( until recently ) has been a 98 Accord w/ 380k ( approx ) miles on it.
I took it to prom in 98’!!! The thing is an absolute workhorse. It is the most dependable, reliable, simple easy to maintain ( And I don’t ! ) and dirt cheap to repair car I’ve ever had.


But recently got a 13’ Blizzard Pearl White Avalon Limited Hybrid.
Beautiful car!.
30k miles. 1 car local owner ( couple in mid 70’s ).


This thing is in pristine condition. I’m not kidding you. If I told you it was 6 years old after you saw it you would never believe me.


Anyways.. I’m getting way off track.

[Paul A.]

The word "glaze" still gets to me. I am done with any and all paint improvement after the final polish. The only thing left after final polish is a good Iso Alc or Eraser wipe down...then LSP.

What is the "glaze" product you're contemplating? Some CO's confuse us with how they label their "glaze".

Another point from experience. I always wait for the full sealant cure time before applying a topper wax. Sometimes that's the next day or maybe even after it's first wash. With the advancement of sealant products nowadays I've abandoned "topping" sealants. If you're insistent on topping with a wax I would offer 2 things...1. wait for full sealant cure, crosslink etc., and 2. stay in the same product family.

Other than the "glaze" I'm ok with everything else for that beautiful Avalon.

[Mike@ShineStruck]

This is what I typically do now adays

Power rinse
Cs2 Dewax(acid) or sometimes freaky foam
Power rinse
ADG F-Bomb (alkaline)
Clay (virtually not needed due to acid, unless super heavily contaminated)

Mckee37 N914 Rinseless

Testspot/correction if opted/paid

Solvent prep(or coating specific if doing coating)

Seal


Acid based prep will replace a fallout/iron remover while also being a great substitute for a claybar

If not using any abraisves
Acid is one of the 3 keys to help strip without polishing
Other being solvent and Alkaline..
It's unknown whuch of the 3 you'll need as each LSP has different resistance attributes

[mwoolfso]

Since you are getting back in.... consider a hybrid wax as your first attempt to get into the hobby (Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid Nano) or Collinite 845 (2-layers). If you do this, then 5-7 are consolidated and your save time & money. Then maintain with a QD.