Spray Sealant technique?

[bofh]

I really enjoy using McKees SiO2 Blue or Hydro2 or some of the other spray-on / rinse-off sealants but I don't really understand the correct technique. I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos but haven't got my question answered, so here goes.

They say not to use too much, maybe two squirts per panel. The sealant is "water activated" which seems to mean that the impact from pressurized water activates the sealant and changes it to be hydrophobic. (This part confuses me as I dilute the concentrate ahead of time according to instructions, but never mind that). My question is: does this transformation to hydrophobic occur like literally where the droplet sits on the paint from my two squirts? The solution turns milky as it runs off-- is the sealant still being spread from this milky stuff? Or is the location of the droplet the spot that has now become hydrophobic?

Two squirts per panel puts enough product on the paint but I guess what I'm wondering is what about the distribution of the product? For areas that weren't blanketed by a squirt, how do they get sealant-- is it from this milky runoff or something else? If yes, then should my two squirts go high on the panel so it runs down over the rest of it?

[PA DETAILER]

The distribution happens when you hit it with the water pressure from your hose. The pressure spreads it out to adjacent panels.

[Jay's 128i]

They say not to use too much, maybe two squirts per panel. The sealant is "water activated" which seems to mean that the impact from pressurized water activates the sealant and changes it to be hydrophobic. This part confuses me as I dilute the concentrate ahead of time according to instructions.

You are diluting a very concentrated product. You're bringing it to the proper "performance" level. Essentially, the dilution ratio is what hydro2 lite is. There are two parts to the water activation. 1) By simply mixing it, you're keeping it in a hydrophilic state. 2) Carpro created Hydro2 using what they call "Hydroelectric bonding". The pressure from the water being sprayed accelerates the bonding process making Hydro2 go from hydrophilic to hydrophobic. I'm guessing that the "polymer" is somehow encapsulated and the kinetic energy from the jet of water breaks/releases the polymer allowing it to bond to the surface.

Does this transformation to hydrophobic occur like literally where the droplet sits on the paint from my two squirts?

Yes and no. Where ever you spray it, it will start latching on. But, it takes pressure to accelerate it. Because if this, when you spray water it forces the product to spread out as well. Any droplet of water that comes in contact with it will absorb the "polymers" and drag it across the surface allowing it to bond.

The solution turns milky as it runs off-- is the sealant still being spread from this milky stuff?

From my understanding, the mikey stuff is the sealant. It chemically changes due to the Hydroelectric bonding.


Two squirts per panel puts enough product on the paint but I guess what I'm wondering is what about the distribution of the product?

As stated before, when the initial blast of water hits the product, the droplets absorb the "polymers" and died them out. Think of it like stacking dominoes as a kid; once the first domino hits another domino, a chain reaction occurs causing them to fall. Once one droplet hits Hydro2, it absorbs polymers, as that droplets moves across, they hit more droplets, passing polymers along as they go. While this is happening, the polymers are bonding to the paint and cross linking with each other, basically building that shell across the panel.


For areas that weren't blanketed by a squirt, how do they get sealant-- is it from this milky runoff or something else?

Milky runoff


If yes, then should my two squirts go high on the panel so it runs down over the rest of it?

I always spray towards the top, but technically you don't have to. As you spray, the water will go in every direction taking the polymers along with it.

I'm not an expert on Hydro2, so I could be completely wrong. This is just my best educated guess.

[Markymapo]

The milky appearance is possible due to the creation of an emulsion (the dispersion of fine droplets of one liquid in another in which one is not soluble) and thus spreading the droplets across the paint.

[UncleDavy]

I have used the Sonax Spray and Seal and have been very happy with the results. The first time I used it, I used way too much product. 3/4 of the bottle was gone after one treatment on my Ford Explorer. Two sprays per panel don't seem to be enough. I use 4 sprays per panel and I see the milky white action. We have had two straight weeks of rain showers and I still get some great beading.

[SWETM]

For maintance when applying the spray on rinse off products. I first try to find the farther away distance I can get away with so the spray distribute as wide as possible. Also moving the sprayer while trigger it so you don't get it on the same place. Since I have quite a powerfull PW 2600psi 2.6gpm specs. I try to get the spray on the center of the top and move the sprayer down as I trigger it. This makes it for when I PW it to start with it as long away as the panel is covered with the water spread from the PW. I start from the bottom and work my way up and when reached the top I move the PW closer to the paint and get the water pressure to hit every part of the paint while rinsing the last of the spray on rinse off product off the paint. You have a perfect tell if the product foams a little as that you want to get all off so you don't have any streaking afterwards. This I do with starting at the roof and work my way down panel by panel and split the roof and hood in 2 panels. If the weather is a little warmer. And if it's a little colder I can do a couple of panels at the same time. When I'm done I do 1 last rinse so I get the most water possible to have the last product to rinse off the car. As after a wash I rinse from top to bottom. If I see an area where the product may not have reached it's simple to spray on a spritz to get an even coverage.

As I mentioned above this is for maintance an already hydrophobic LSP. If it's needed to have a more protection layer. I spray the same amount of spray on rinse off product. But use a damp mf applicator sponge to spread the product evenly out on the panel. This I have seen a more stout and a little longer longevity from it too. These products has an awesome lubrication to be spread out like this. The most smoothest product I have used this way is Carpro Hydro2 lite. You really want to hold the mf applicator sponge as it glides very easly on the paint. Also I start from the bottom and work my way up with the PW and ad the water pressure from the PW a little closer when reaching the top and work my way down again. Have used Gyeon Wet Coat and Carpro Hydro2 lite and Sonax Spray and Seal on 2 cars I maintain even as stand alone LSP over the winter months. With useing them every month I feel the protection and the hydrophobic caractics gets higher than from the first application of them.