Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips

[Mike Phillips]

Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/122866-review-rupes-mark-iii-bigfoot-21-polisher-mike-phillips.html)


RUPES BigFoot LHR21 MARK III Random Orbital Polisher


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_046.JPG


Used this red 2014 Corvette Stingray for a video and as a thank you to the owner, machine polished the exterior using Pinnacle Jeweling Wax. This gave me a chance to test out the new RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark III

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_002.JPG



So let's take a look at what's inside the box.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_001.JPG



There's the polisher, a User Guide and a printout with some extra information on lubricating the backing plate where it rubs against the rubber shroud and the extension cord.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_003.JPG

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Nice. And the suggested retail price for this tool by itself is = $465.00


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_008.JPG



Now let's take a look at the features of the tool itself.

First up - it comes with a 9 meter long power cord, for we in the States that never learned the metric system this works out to be about 30 feet.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_009.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_009c.JPG



Sexy piping to make the tool look visually pleasing to any hardcore tool guy....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_010.JPG



Extra large speed dial that's easier to read and easier to adjust.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_011.JPG



Speed dial goes from 1 to 6

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_012.JPG



Graph imprinted on the top of the tool body shows you the OPMs for each speed setting.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_013.JPG



Soft rubber tool rests - this one just above the speed dial.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_014.JPG



The other tool rest is towards the front of the tool. The soft rubber tool rests enable you to lay the tool upside down without it falling over. Because the tool rests are soft rubber, if they are clean you could lay this on the hood, roof or trunk lid of a car. (I do)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_015.JPG



Soft rubber overmold around the head of the tool makes it easier to grab and grip.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_016.JPG



Hex Head Wrench stores onboard for removal or re-tightening of the backing plate.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_017.JPG



Progressive Trigger provides easier control over tool speed with exact precision. (nice)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_018.JPG



Soft rubber grip on trigger makes it easy for your finger to grip the trigger for easy speed adjustment - even if wearing gloves.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_019.JPG



Speed lock button to lock the tool in the ON position at a determined speed setting.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_020.JPG



Dirt and dust cover on the backing plate to keep it clean.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_021.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_022.JPG


RUPES is not a big fan of co-mingling their system.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_023.JPG


This means they prefer you to use tier pads and products with their tool. I completely understand this and back when I wrote the RUPES how-to book - if you notice the title states,

The RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing SYSTEM

That's because it's truly a system - not just a tool.




Identification Tag - Shows it is assembled in the USA From parts made in the European Union.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_024.JPG




The RUPES BigFoot backing plates are thin with a tapered rubber outer flange.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_025.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_026.JPG



I strongly recommend placing a mark on the backing plate to make it easier for your eyes to watch the backing plate during operation to monitor pad rotation.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_027.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_028.JPG



There's a lot of controversy around the practice of stuffing a spacer washer between the spindle and the backing plate. I don't do it myself as a practice but I DO apply a lubricant to the back of the backing plate to reduce friction between the backing plate and the rubber shroud. Looks like RUPE recommends the same thing.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_029.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_030.JPG



Apply the lubricant to the blue portion of the backing plate here.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_032.JPG




Multiple cooling holes in the backing plate align with the cooling vents on their microfiber pads.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_031.JPG



From the Autogeek.com store page


Technical Data

• Ø backing pad mm-in - 150 – 6”
• Ø Orbit mm-in - 21 -13/16”
• Power Watt - 500
• R.P.M. - 3000 – 4500
• Weight kg-lbs - 2.7 – 5.95
• Speed regulation •
• Backing pad thread - M8
• Cord Length m-ft - 9 – 29.5




On Autogeek.net


RUPES BigFoot LHR21 MARK III Random Orbital Polisher (https://www.autogeek.net/rupes-bigfoot-lhr-21-markiii-polisher.html)




:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued.....

This Corvette is garage kept and low mileage. Besides some overspray paint on the back of it there wasn't a lot of swirls or scratches to be removed. That said, nothing looks as good as a freshly waxed car.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_033.JPG

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A couple of RIDS here and there....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_038.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_039.JPG



If I put the top up I would have to tape off the top. If I leave it down I have to cover the interior. Either way I have to cover something so I chose to leave the top down and cover the interior up.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_040.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_041.JPG



There's very little plastic trim on these cars but where it is located it's faster and easier to tape-it off then to try to detail it after the detail work.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_042.JPG

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Ready to start buffing...

Here you can see I not only mark my backing plate but now days I mark all my pads too. Making a simple mark makes it a LOT easier for your eyes to monitor pad rotation. If you want to remove swirls and scratches you must remove a little paint. To remove a little paint you need pad rotation. If the pad is stalling out then it's basically just vibrating against the paint and >you< are not doing anything.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_046.JPG



Here I've put some of the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax on the face of the pad.... if you don't know - you use a one-step cleaner/wax like a compound or polish as it relates to how much product to use.

You certainly don't take the silly advice of using 3 peas sized drop. :laughing:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_047.JPG



And BOOM! The car is done. Sorry I don't have any pictures of me doing the work but I can vouch that the car didn't buff itself out. :)

And I always include how many pads I used in a project to show others that it takes more than ONE pad to buff out any car with any tool.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_048.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_049.JPG

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http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_052.JPG



And here's the results. I actually had people walk into the garage the next day and ask me,

What ceramic paint coating did you put on it?

Not coated - just the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax. Looks good huh?

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_053.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_054.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_055.JPG



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_057.JPG



I tested a new tire cleaner when I was washing this car. As a follow-up to the cleaner I applied the Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Dressing.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_058.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_059.JPG



This drop top is drop dead gorgeous!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_060.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_056.JPG



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Review

I was REALLY impressed with this new updated BigFoot 21 long stroke polisher. The 21mm is my favorite and it was fun to re-visit this type of tool for buffing out an entire car and a very curvy car at that.

I don't remember EVER experience any pad stalling with this new Mark III version and most of the time I was only on speed setting 4. Normally I'm always on speed 6 with these types of tools to help with maintaining pad rotation but pad rotation just didn't seem to be a problem.

I've always LOVED buffing with the RUPES ultra soft white 7" foam pads and of course the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax is an incredible product that uses amazing abrasive technology.


If you've been waiting (for years), to take the plunge and get a RUPES BigFoot 21 long stroke, free spinning orbital polisher, this newest updated version is great.


I give it 2 thumbs up!


:dblthumb2:

:)

[conman1395]

Great write-up Mike. Question: Why does Rupes continue to have the shroud contact the backing plate? I don't get it. Rather than lubricate the surface, why don't they just make it not touch at all?

[Mike Phillips]

Great write-up Mike.

Question: Why does Rupes continue to have the shroud contact the backing plate? I don't get it.

Rather than lubricate the surface, why don't they just make it not touch at all?




That is a GREAT question. Myself and Todd Helme both shared our reasons why, (I believe Todd's reasons are the most accurate, I just shared what I was told by the head Engineer at RUPES).


In that same line of logic - why does everyone that copies the RUPES design include a rubber shroud that rubs on the back of the backing plate?

They could have just not used a rubber shroud? The Porter Cable polisher has been around for 20+ years and it doesn't have a rubber shroud? Neither does the Meguiar's MT300 or the Griot's 6" DA or the HF DA.


I have to go out to the garage and finish packing for a private Roadshow Class in another week. I got a good start with the tools, now it's time to pack the pads, chemicals and other supplies so I can get it MOVING towards it's destination.


TOOLS! - Car Detailing Training - Packing for a Roadshow Class! No sitting all hands-on! (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/autogeek-roadshow-detailing-classes/122782-tools-car-detailing-training-packing-roadshow-class-no-sitting-all-hands.html)



:)

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Very nice review Mike!

That Vette came out glossy. You know, it should be illegal the amount of shine you put on cars that come through your hands.

Keep up the great work :props:

[Mike Phillips]

Very nice review Mike!



It was kind of short and to the point. Big picture is I used it over an entire car, a fairly curvy car to so I would have real-world experience to share a factual opinion. Except for flat panel cars I don't tend to grab any companies 21mm long stroke polishers for most of my detail work as I tend to like gear-driven tools to simply work faster since there's no pad stall.

So I was very happy with the performance of the Mark III as it seem to work really well as far as maintaining pad rotation on this car. I would add that I think it's easier to maintain pad rotation with the softer 7" white polishing pad than it is to maintain pad rotation with any other firmer pad so I'll have to buff out some more cars using the other RUPES pads to test this new version to it's limit. Suffice to say, out of all the BigFoot 21 polishers the Mark III is the best bang for your buck.





That Vette came out glossy. You know, it should be illegal the amount of shine you put on cars that come through your hands.




Thanks!

The Pinnacle Jeweling Wax really works nice for cars in this condition. I find myself recommending this product to a lot of people with cars like this that stay in great shape but do need the occasional refreshing to restore that just waxed look. I think I mentioned this previously but a number of people either asked me what ceramic coating I used or inferred the coating I used looked great. Then I told them it wasn't coated but waxed.

Have to admit - the red paint came out incredibly glossy and it looks as good if not better in person as it does in the pictures.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_054.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_055.JPG



:)

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Pinnacle Jeweling Wax? Wouldn’t that be outside the system? [emoji12]


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)

[jbodrich1]

Here I've put some of the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax on the face of the pad.... if you don't know - you use a one-step cleaner/wax like a compound or polish as it relates to how much product to use.

You certainly don't take the silly advice of using 3 peas sized drop. :laughing:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3831/aMark_3_047.JPG


Mike can you please elaborate on the 3 pea-sized drop comment? I've always been told less is more. Is that quantity of product specific to this Wax or do you believe people under-use product in general? Thanks

[Mike Phillips]

Mike can you please elaborate on the 3 pea-sized drop comment?



Sure, glad to. My goal is to always educate and I'm willing to put my experience and opinion on the front line for anyone to agree with or disagree with.





I've always been told less is more.

Is that quantity of product specific to this Wax or do you believe people under-use product in general?

Thanks




The old adage


Less is more


I definitely true for some things. Not my gas tank or my bank account. :laughing:


When using a PURE wax or PURE sealant, in this context, the word pure means NON CLEANING. Then in this example you are SUPPOSED to be applying a product like Meguiar's #26 or Pinnacle Souveran Paste Was using the less is more technique BECAUSE the paint you are SUPPOSED to be applying these types of non cleaning products should already be in new, excellent or show car condition and thus all you're trying to do is lay down a thin uniform layer of product.

So yeah, less is more. Overusing the product would be simply wasting the product.


Now here's what I wrote - note the part I made bold





Here I've put some of the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax on the face of the pad.... if you don't know - you use a one-step cleaner/wax like a compound or polish as it relates to how much product to use.

You certainly don't take the silly advice of using 3 peas sized drop.




When using any quality cleaner/wax of as some of you like to call it, an AIO or All-in-One, you want plenty of what's in the cleaner/wax ON the surface WORKING for you.

This can include,


Abrasives
Lubricating agents
Chemical cleaners
Solvents
Waxes or any type of protection ingredients




In context, if you're using an AIO or cleaner/wax, you're SUPPOSED to be working on neglected paint, that is paint that has defects like,


Swirls
Scratches
Water spots
Oxidation



Thus you need the things I listed above working in conjunction WITH the pad, tool, time and technique to remove the defects and leave the surface both polished and protected.


IF you underuse the product when working on this type of paint then you're diminishing the overall results you can achieve and investing a lot more time to get the job done.


What I always write when talking about cleaner/waxes, or cleaner/sealants or AIOs or jeweling waxes, is you want to use the product HEAVY or WET --> this means you use plenty of product. You are not ridiculous and use so much product it's spraying and splattering all over the place, but you don't use 3 Peas Sized Drops. That would be ridiculous. And anyone telling you this is simply still learning.


I actually met a recognized Pro Detailer a few months ago getting ready to start buffing on very neglected paint. Right in front of me he applied 4 peas sized drops. Still way to LITTLE product for the paint he was working on. I let him buff this first section and then wipe off the residue to inspect the results. He basically buffed to a dry buff due to so little product used. Keep in mind, anytime you buff to a dry buff on scratch-sensitive clearcoats you risk micro-marring the paint. That's working backwards in my book.


Then I politely shared with him what he was doing and what he should be doing. He politely told me he was always told to use 3 pea sized drops. That's an example of bad information simply being regurgitated or parroted in the blogosphere and the results is everyone that is YouTube Trained & Certified simply don't really know what they are doing.

I cover all of this in all of my classes, car detailing classes and boat detailing classes and with boats it's even MORE important to use a product heavy or wet because dry oxidized gel-coat absorbs some of the liquids in the product as you're working the surface so you automatically lose some original lubrication and chemical cleaners to the gel-coat. And same thing applies when working on oxidized single stage paint. :)


Great questions!

Thanks you for asking! I hope my explanations make sense.




p.s.

Just to give due credit where credit is due, it is Meguiar's that originally assocated the word PURE with non-cleaning polishes and non-cleaning waxes.



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Pinnacle Jeweling Wax? Wouldn’t that be outside the system?




Yes. You are correct. Using a non-RUPES product with RUPES tools would be absolutely considered working outside the "system".


Thank you for pointing this out as it give me the opportunity to add and explain your comment to those that might not know what we are talking about.

First - in the RUPES world, RUPES is a system, not a tool. That's why I titled my RUPES book the way I did. As a Veteran of the NXT vs Zaino Wax Wars - I don't type a single word that is not intended and has purpose.

The RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing System

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/587/300_4_book.jpg



And when it comes to teaching RUPES as a system, I am the only NON-RUPES employee that is true to their brand. I ALWAYS teach RUPES as a system in all my car detailing classes. ALWAYS. I do this as a professional courtesy to Guido Valentini, the owner and President of RUPES as well as all his stellar employees. Below is Guido and myself at RUPES factory in Milan, Italy.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77592
Meet Guido Valentini the Presidente of Rupes (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/82054-meet-guido-valentini-presidente-rupes.html)



In fact - I am very confident I have MORE RUPES detailing classes documented with pictures and the cool cars I use for my RUPES classes than any other Instructor outside of RUPES and even among all RUPES employees. There's a benefit to knowing how to work with pictures on the Internet as well as knowing how to write. I started creating a list of classes 4 years ago and have not updated it since. It would take me at least a day or longer to add all the RUPES classes I have documented to this list.

List of RUPES BigFoot Detailing Classes at Autogeek (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-detailing-boot-camp-classes/94073-list-rupes-bigfoot-detailing-classes-autogeek.html)




Heck - even when Yancy and I went to Waxstock in England and I taught a Roadshow Class there I showed RUPES as a SYSTEM - This means I packed all the tools, pads and chemicals I would need and shipped them there and then shipped them home again.

Pictures: Roadshow Class at Waxstock in England! (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/autogeek-roadshow-detailing-classes/103520-pictures-roadshow-class-waxstock-england.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=107457





The above all said - RUPES at this time does not have an AIO on the market "yet". I'm sure they will at some time. When I was a guest at the 2014 International Sales Meeting at RUPES in Milan, Italy, I was asked to make a presentation during the meeting and a part of my presentation was I recommended that moving into the future, RUPES should introduce,


A traditional Carnauba Wax
A synthetic sealant
A ceramic paint coating
One-step cleaner/wax



And the reason I gave RUPES for offering all of the above categories is to offer something for everyone. Some of their customers may want a ceramic paint coating while some may want a traditional carnauba wax and/or a cleaner/wax. In 2014 when I made this recommendation (Jason Rose was still at Meguiar's) and RUPES did not have a large selection of car care chemicals outside their 5 compounds and polishes. And the thing is - if you only offer products for PAINT CORRECTION - you force your customer's to seek out products for SEALING the paint from your competitors. Meguiar's had this issue from their inception in 1901 until they introduced their first product for sealing paint in 1951 or 1952 when after Frank Meguiar Jr., (the founder) passed away in 1950. After Frank's passing, Meguiar's introduced their first wax - M16 Professional Paste Wax. (I know the back story about this too)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/MeguiarsM16PPW.jpg


So the above was my advice and recommendations at that RUPES International Sales Meeting was at some point to introduce multiple ways of sealing the paint so they had a wide selection of products in this category to satisfy all their customer's preferences. (Yes - some people still like to use a wax or a sealant although it seems everyone wants a ceramic paint coating :) )


To test out the new Mark III polisher I didn't need to do a traditional 3-step all I needed was to buff out an entire car. The Corvette detail was a freebie for the owner letting us use the Vette for a video and because it was in very good condition, after washing and taking a BLACKFIRE Clay Mitt (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/122687-review-blackfire-synthetic-clay-mitt-cleaner.html) to the paint all I needed to do to perfect the paint was hit it with a quality cleaner/wax. Technically Pinnacle Jeweling wax is MORE than a cleaner/wax because Nu Finish is a cleaner/wax and it will NOT do to scratch-sensitive clearcoats paints like on this Corvette what Pinnacle Jeweling Wax will do so it's not fair to lump the PJW with Nu Finish and all of the other basic cleaner/waxes on the market.


Here's my write-up for washing and decontaminating the Corvette used in this article.

Review: BLACKFIRE Synthetic Clay Mitt Cleaner (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/122687-review-blackfire-synthetic-clay-mitt-cleaner.html)





So yep.... went outside the RUPES system because at this time RUPES does not have a one-step on the market. I do know in time, this will change.


Nice comment Mark, you enabled me to share a plethora of information.


:)

[jbodrich1]

Awesome explanation. Thanks Mike!


Sure, glad to. My goal is to always educate and I'm willing to put my experience and opinion on the front line for anyone to agree with or disagree with.





The old adage


Less is more


I definitely true for some things. Not my gas tank or my bank account. :laughing:


When using a PURE wax or PURE sealant, in this context, the word pure means NON CLEANING. Then in this example you are SUPPOSED to be applying a product like Meguiar's #26 or Pinnacle Souveran Paste Was using the less is more technique BECAUSE the paint you are SUPPOSED to be applying these types of non cleaning products should already be in new, excellent or show car condition and thus all you're trying to do is lay down a thin uniform layer of product.

So yeah, less is more. Overusing the product would be simply wasting the product.


Now here's what I wrote - note the part I made bold





When using any quality cleaner/wax of as some of you like to call it, an AIO or All-in-One, you want plenty of what's in the cleaner/wax ON the surface WORKING for you.

This can include,


Abrasives
Lubricating agents
Chemical cleaners
Solvents
Waxes or any type of protection ingredients




In context, if you're using an AIO or cleaner/wax, you're SUPPOSED to be working on neglected paint, that is paint that has defects like,


Swirls
Scratches
Water spots
Oxidation



Thus you need the things I listed above working in conjunction WITH the pad, tool, time and technique to remove the defects and leave the surface both polished and protected.


IF you underuse the product when working on this type of paint then you're diminishing the overall results you can achieve and investing a lot more time to get the job done.


What I always write when talking about cleaner/waxes, or cleaner/sealants or AIOs or jeweling waxes, is you want to use the product HEAVY or WET --> this means you use plenty of product. You are not ridiculous and use so much product it's spraying and splattering all over the place, but you don't use 3 Peas Sized Drops. That would be ridiculous. And anyone telling you this is simply still learning.


I actually met a recognized Pro Detailer a few months ago getting ready to start buffing on very neglected paint. Right in front of me he applied 4 peas sized drops. Still way to LITTLE product for the paint he was working on. I let him buff this first section and then wipe off the residue to inspect the results. He basically buffed to a dry buff due to so little product used. Keep in mind, anytime you buff to a dry buff on scratch-sensitive clearcoats you risk micro-marring the paint. That's working backwards in my book.


Then I politely shared with him what he was doing and what he should be doing. He politely told me he was always told to use 3 pea sized drops. That's an example of bad information simply being regurgitated or parroted in the blogosphere and the results is everyone that is YouTube Trained & Certified simply don't really know what they are doing.

I cover all of this in all of my classes, car detailing classes and boat detailing classes and with boats it's even MORE important to use a product heavy or wet because dry oxidized gel-coat absorbs some of the liquids in the product as you're working the surface so you automatically lose some original lubrication and chemical cleaners to the gel-coat. And same thing applies when working on oxidized single stage paint. :)


Great questions!

Thanks you for asking! I hope my explanations make sense.




p.s.

Just to give due credit where credit is due, it is Meguiar's that originally assocated the word PURE with non-cleaning polishes and non-cleaning waxes.



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Awesome explanation. Thanks Mike!


Thank you. That's what I do. Detail cars and awesome explanations.

Basically doing my best to teach people how to detail a car with a keyboard.


:)

[yello430]

Sure, glad to. My goal is to always educate and I'm willing to put my experience and opinion on the front line for anyone to agree with or disagree with.





The old adage


Less is more


I definitely true for some things. Not my gas tank or my bank account. :laughing:


When using a PURE wax or PURE sealant, in this context, the word pure means NON CLEANING. Then in this example you are SUPPOSED to be applying a product like Meguiar's #26 or Pinnacle Souveran Paste Was using the less is more technique BECAUSE the paint you are SUPPOSED to be applying these types of non cleaning products should already be in new, excellent or show car condition and thus all you're trying to do is lay down a thin uniform layer of product.

So yeah, less is more. Overusing the product would be simply wasting the product.


Now here's what I wrote - note the part I made bold





When using any quality cleaner/wax of as some of you like to call it, an AIO or All-in-One, you want plenty of what's in the cleaner/wax ON the surface WORKING for you.

This can include,


Abrasives
Lubricating agents
Chemical cleaners
Solvents
Waxes or any type of protection ingredients




In context, if you're using an AIO or cleaner/wax, you're SUPPOSED to be working on neglected paint, that is paint that has defects like,


Swirls
Scratches
Water spots
Oxidation



Thus you need the things I listed above working in conjunction WITH the pad, tool, time and technique to remove the defects and leave the surface both polished and protected.


IF you underuse the product when working on this type of paint then you're diminishing the overall results you can achieve and investing a lot more time to get the job done.


What I always write when talking about cleaner/waxes, or cleaner/sealants or AIOs or jeweling waxes, is you want to use the product HEAVY or WET --> this means you use plenty of product. You are not ridiculous and use so much product it's spraying and splattering all over the place, but you don't use 3 Peas Sized Drops. That would be ridiculous. And anyone telling you this is simply still learning.


I actually met a recognized Pro Detailer a few months ago getting ready to start buffing on very neglected paint. Right in front of me he applied 4 peas sized drops. Still way to LITTLE product for the paint he was working on. I let him buff this first section and then wipe off the residue to inspect the results. He basically buffed to a dry buff due to so little product used. Keep in mind, anytime you buff to a dry buff on scratch-sensitive clearcoats you risk micro-marring the paint. That's working backwards in my book.


Then I politely shared with him what he was doing and what he should be doing. He politely told me he was always told to use 3 pea sized drops. That's an example of bad information simply being regurgitated or parroted in the blogosphere and the results is everyone that is YouTube Trained & Certified simply don't really know what they are doing.

I cover all of this in all of my classes, car detailing classes and boat detailing classes and with boats it's even MORE important to use a product heavy or wet because dry oxidized gel-coat absorbs some of the liquids in the product as you're working the surface so you automatically lose some original lubrication and chemical cleaners to the gel-coat. And same thing applies when working on oxidized single stage paint. :)


Great questions!

Thanks you for asking! I hope my explanations make sense.




p.s.

Just to give due credit where credit is due, it is Meguiar's that originally assocated the word PURE with non-cleaning polishes and non-cleaning waxes.



:)

Thanks for that explanation. I recently purchased some Rupes wool pads for my Rupes machine, and the video said use 3 pea sized dollops of product. Thank you for clarifying that for me! I get so many different instructions, it's hard to separate the good from the not so good.

[fightnews]

Nice review mike. I'm looking forward to using my mark3 15. If the pad stalling is minimal I might get the 21 down the road. I feel the pad stalling on long throws makes them not really worth using but I've only had 1 so far the G15.

I bought the jeweling wax and I would love to use it this memorial day but it's going to be pollen season and the dust attraction with carnuba is crazy on my car. I still might use it anyway lol.

Any way nice job,

You would think these polish companies would advise people use more polish not less just from a business perspective. I have seen the pea size drop thing though. I think it's from carpro essence because if you use it like a normal polish it would be to hard to remove cleanly and leave high spots. Idk