Lexus self healing paint detailing

[sjj]

Just bought a 2017 Lexus RX350 and was planning a full detailing with clay bar, iron remover, light polish with Menzerna Super Finish Plus and application of PNS. I just learned the paint has some form of self healing coating and now I’m concerned about the claying and polishing in that it might cause problems with the self healing coating. Anyone have experience with this that can provide guidance or recommendations? I don’t want to remove or jeopardize the self healing coating.

[FUNX650]

•Since Lexus recommends to not even use
Waxes that contain abrasives (Cleaner-Waxes)...
-I, personally, wouldn’t use any other abrasive
products—Clay, Polishes, etc.—on this type of
top-coat paint-film.

•I’m sure there are people that are
more enlightened to the intricacies
of Lexus’ Self-Healing Paint than I.

:idea:
Here’s one information avenue
you could roam about:


https://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/1E8F725C-A67C-4D6F-B35C-0F89227ED4B7.jpeg


Bob

[sudsmobile]

A picture of a google search. I've now officially seen it all.

[392hemi]

Just bought a 2017 Lexus RX350 and was planning a full detailing with clay bar, iron remover, light polish with Menzerna Super Finish Plus and application of PNS. I just learned the paint has some form of self healing coating and now I’m concerned about the claying and polishing in that it might cause problems with the self healing coating. Anyone have experience with this that can provide guidance or recommendations? I don’t want to remove or jeopardize the self healing coating.

I think Nissan and Infiniti used to have it too.

See below links, may be of help


Lexus Self-Healing Paint (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/104848-lexus-self-healing-paint.html)


Ceramiclear Paints - Be Careful (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-and-frequently-asked-questions/47152-ceramiclear-paints-careful.html)


Nissan/Infinity Self Healing clear (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/27003-nissan-infinity-self-healing-clear.html)

[Mike Phillips]

Historically, the only "abrasive" product that worked with any success with self-healing paints was the Menzerna ultra fine cut polish and a soft finishing pad.

My guess is the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish would work. I would trust it on any paint. Always do a Test Spot first.


In my opinion, while the manufacturers of this type of paint have good intentions - it's truly a case of over-engineering. Also in my opinion, when creating a paint system in SCALE for the masses, the ultimate goal would be a paint the AVERGAGE PERSON could work on, not a specialist. That's just my take after helping potentially hundreds of thousands of people polish paint on cars over the years.





Anyone have experience with this that can provide guidance or recommendations? I don’t want to remove or jeopardize the self healing coating.




After you wash the car, simply do some testing to a small area on the car. I usually recommend the hood or trunk lid but if you're really worried, pick a lower body panel so if something goes wrong at least it's not in a place you'll be looking at constantly.

After washing and drying, before claying, do a TEST SPOT with your polish, pad and tool. Look to see if you can make the paint look better or after wipe-off the paint look worse.

If you can make the paint look better then go ahead and clay the paint. If claying mars the paint at least you know you can fix it. If when doing the test spot you cannot machine polish the paint without micro-marring the heck out of it you'll be glad you didn't clay the car.

My guess is there is a "forum" for your car with a detail section. Have you looked and joined this forum? Usually, but now, (the year 2019), there's enough GOOD INFORMATION that's been passed around from forums like this one that you'll have an in-house detailing guru that will have worked on these cars and should be kind enough to share their experience.


How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)



And welcome to AutogeekOnline!


:welcome:

[TTQ B4U]

I think Nissan and Infiniti used to have it too.

Yep. Infiniti/Nissan started using it in 2009 or so on the GTR. My Red Sport has it too. Simply hit it with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low and scratches blend away pretty quickly. The sun on a summer day works well too on the hood...so they say, but on the sides, I don't see it working well. I actually have to hit a couple of scuffs on the side of mine today thanks to the kids hitting it with their back packs as they get in my wife's car. Ugh....

Key on Nissan is to use light polishes. I can't see using any compounds unless there's some type of train wreck of paint issue.

[sjj]

Historically, the only "abrasive" product that worked with any success with self-healing paints was the Menzerna ultra fine cut polish and a soft finishing pad.

My guess is the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish would work. I would trust it on any paint. Always do a Test Spot first.


In my opinion, while the manufacturers of this type of paint have good intentions - it's truly a case of over-engineering. Also in my opinion, when creating a paint system in SCALE for the masses, the ultimate goal would be a paint the AVERGAGE PERSON could work on, not a specialist. That's just my take after helping potentially hundreds of thousands of people polish paint on cars over the years.





After you wash the car, simply do some testing to a small area on the car. I usually recommend the hood or trunk lid but if you're really worried, pick a lower body panel so if something goes wrong at least it's not in a place you'll be looking at constantly.

After washing and drying, before claying, do a TEST SPOT with your polish, pad and tool. Look to see if you can make the paint look better or after wipe-off the paint look worse.

If you can make the paint look better then go ahead and clay the paint. If claying mars the paint at least you know you can fix it. If when doing the test spot you cannot machine polish the paint without micro-marring the heck out of it you'll be glad you didn't clay the car.

My guess is there is a "forum" for your car with a detail section. Have you looked and joined this forum? Usually, but now, (the year 2019), there's enough GOOD INFORMATION that's been passed around from forums like this one that you'll have an in-house detailing guru that will have worked on these cars and should be kind enough to share their experience.


How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)



And welcome to AutogeekOnline!


:welcome:

Thanks for the input and definitely will try a test spot. Also I’m on a Lexus forum as you suggested seeking input. Thanks again.

[sjj]

Yep. Infiniti/Nissan started using it in 2009 or so on the GTR. My Red Sport has it too. Simply hit it with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low and scratches blend away pretty quickly. The sun on a summer day works well too on the hood...so they say, but on the sides, I don't see it working well. I actually have to hit a couple of scuffs on the side of mine today thanks to the kids hitting it with their back packs as they get in my wife's car. Ugh....

Key on Nissan is to use light polishes. I can't see using any compounds unless there's some type of train wreck of paint issue.

I’ve seen pics of your Red Sport and it looks fantastic. Would you mine sharing what polishes and pads you use?

[TTQ B4U]

I’ve seen pics of your Red Sport and it looks fantastic. Would you mine sharing what polishes and pads you use?Thank you. Current she is coated with Gyeon Q2 Pure and topped with Skin.

Polish wise I used Rupes white pads and Gyeon Primer.

I'll be re doing it this Spring and while I Love Gyeon, I'm going to use CarPro Essence and coat it with thier UK 3.0 and Gliss 2. Mainly because I offer both to customers and want one vehicle of each.

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