Finishing Polish For A Beginner

[Pchang978]

So I will be doing my first paint correction ever on my vehicle before sealing it. I already bought The Last Cut Compound along with a 5.5" LC microfiber cutting pad, LC HDO blue foam cutting pad and orange foam polishing pad. I plan on purchasing a maxshine M15 DA unless you guys have different suggestions that isn't rupes or flex money. If I am any good at this and actually start doing it as a side gig, then I'll upgrade to a Rupes. I'll be hand washing the car with the 2 bucket method and grit guards. Using Carpro Iron X and then claymagic fine grade before starting the correction.

The vehicle is a 2011 Corvette which is known to have pretty hard paint. The person who sold me the coating recommended I finish the car with Menzerna 3500 and the orange polishing pad but I've heard that it is pretty oily. Somebody recommended that I use carpro Reflect instead but I've been reading that it takes just the right technique, amount of product and proper pad to prevent marring and hazing. As a beginner, I feel like I should purchase something that is easy to use and gives great results. I also would like a finishing polish that is versatile with soft and hard paints. I'm not opposed to buying a different pad for whatever polish I use, if it's necessary. I've heard a lot of great things about HD polish and meguiars m205. Just wanted to get everyone's opinion. Thanks!!

[Pchang978]

I should clarify, I am coating the car with Diamond Pro coatings. I picked it up from the owner at STL Auto Spa along with the wipe down solvent he uses. Already coated my brand new wheels and they came out great.

[The Guz]

Optimum Hyper Polish would make a fine choice.

[grovlet]

For a polisher - the GG6 Polisher (https://www.autogeek.net/griots-hd-polisher.html) is now the recommended starting point - great warranty coverage, sturdy, and very consumer friendly in terms of learning to polish.

As to product choices - you'll find that's very personalized for instance:
-- some folks still like Carnuba for that show car finish (but lacks any long term durability)
-- some prefer sealants (think chemically created wax) - that have very developed goals for durability, shine, hardness levels, ease of application
-- some prefer Coatings (think longer durability / super sealants)

Most companies now have all 3 options for product choices - and the look/feel/application is often a little different product by product (and company by company) - you often have to simply try a few first, then look for reviews that start to match the ideals you are after in terms of look and application....:buffing:

[Mike Phillips]

So I will be doing my first paint correction ever on my vehicle before sealing it. The vehicle is a 2011 Corvette which is known to have pretty hard paint.



How would you describe the current condition?





The person who sold me the coating recommended I finish the car with Menzerna 3500 and the orange polishing pad but I've heard that it is pretty oily.



The oils prevent the abrasives from merely scouring the paint. Menzerna makes very good abrasive technology.





but I've been reading that it takes just the right technique, amount of product and proper pad to prevent marring and hazing.



Most important thing is the abrasive technology, then tool, pad and technique. I've taught so many people how to polish paint in my life that have never used a polisher before and as long as the abrasive technology is great the results are too.





As a beginner, I feel like I should purchase something that is easy to use and gives great results. I also would like a finishing polish that is versatile with soft and hard paints. I'm not opposed to buying a different pad for whatever polish I use, if it's necessary. I've heard a lot of great things about HD polish and meguiars m205.

Just wanted to get everyone's opinion. Thanks!!




About one week ago I buffed out the Plexiglas window on a 1965 Corvette Hardtop. I started with Meguiar's PlastX but it left micro-marring. I then tired a number of polishes, may 6, 7 or 8 products. The ONLY polish that finished out perfect was the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish.

Also my boat class removed the windshield off the two center console boats I had here for the class. Both were scratched and swirled. They tried buffing with PlastX and while it removed the swirls and scratches it left micro-marring in the plastic. Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish removed the micro-marring and left perfect results.

Pretty darn bubba-proof.


:)

[Pchang978]

I need to clarify, I’m looking for something without any fillers. I know the menzerna and CP reflect don’t have either. The paint is in pretty great condition despite a couple scratches I’m going to touch up with a 0.5mm pen. Car only has 30,000 miles. The color is switch blade silver which I’m grateful for because it’s forgiving unlike black. But I’m going to stay away from the GG6 because of the 8mm of throw versus 15mm I’m after. Sounds like the menzerna would be a good option despite it being oily.

[Pchang978]

Jayce from TLC said sometimes he finishes hard paint with the orange polishing pad and TLC and doesn’t need to use any polish at all. That could be another option for me but I’d still like to have a good polish ready before doing the car

[Paul A.]

Menzerna 3500 is an excellent final polish but does leave something behind you'll want to clean off before coating.

You mentioned a wipe down solvent. Is that meant to be used before the coating? What does Diamond Pro recommend?

Also, you might want to get more pads if you only have one of each

[Pchang978]

The installer and dealer for diamond pro (owner of STL Auto Spa) recommened menzerna 3500. And yes the solvent he provided to me along with the coating is meant as a pre wipe before coating. Sounds like menzerna is the way to go.

[Pchang978]

Menzerna 3500 is an excellent final polish but does leave something behind you'll want to clean off before coating.

You mentioned a wipe down solvent. Is that meant to be used before the coating? What does Diamond Pro recommend?

Also, you might want to get more pads if you only have one of each


Would you recommend priming the pad and then using about 4 pea sized drops with a 5-6 speed? Or is that too much product

[VISITOR]

pchang78, do you currently own a polisher or will this be your first?

[Pchang978]

pchang78, do you currently own a polisher or will this be your first?

This will be my first. I may just say “screw it” and spend the money on a Rupes mark ii 15. Only thing in my possession is the ceramic coating, TLC and the 3 pads I listed off. I’m wanting to order everything at once and not need anything later on down the road. As in, in the middle of correcting and coating my car lol.

[VISITOR]

This will be my first. I may just say “screw it” and spend the money on a Rupes mark ii 15. Only thing in my possession is the ceramic coating, TLC and the 3 pads I listed off. I’m wanting to order everything at once and not need anything later on down the road. As in, in the middle of correcting and coating my car lol.

a long throw polisher should be an addition to another polisher(s) and not the only one as they are limited to pad options and backing plates. there are areas around the vehicle where the panels are thin/narrow and a 3" and/or 4" pad would be more suitable/appropriate for that task in which a long throw polisher is unable to provide...

Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2018-new-car-detailing-how-to-article-by-mike-phillips/111332-heres-what-you-need-get-into-machine-polishing-recommendations-beginner-mike-phillips.html)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eQB4wb1L0Q

[Klasse Act]

A nice finishing product that's easy to use is 303 Finishing Polish[emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Mike Phillips]

I need to clarify, I’m looking for something without any fillers.




I wish I had a 5 dollar bill every time I waded into the murky confusion over the word

Filler

All compounds and polishes, even if they are "water-based" and state they don't have any fillers.... they all have some form of lubricating agents because without them the abrasives would simply SCOUR the scratch-sensitive "thing" you're buffing on. Yes, clearcoat paints are scratch-sensitive, it is the "thing" you're buffing on.

These lubricating agents or oils will also act to fill and this is normal but if you're applying a coating you can and will want to remove them. I would say most people that focus to deeply on fillers are forgetting what I call

The BIG PICTURE

What is the big picture? Here's a question,

Why do we polish paint? What is the SIMPLE answer not the anal retentive deep answer.


The above question is not a rhetorical question. Please someone take a stab at it.









This will be my first. I may just say “screw it” and spend the money on a Rupes mark ii 15.



In my detailing classes, I teach people to walk before they can run. I teach the simple 8mm free spinning orbital polishers like the Griot's Garage orbital polisher and then as we move through the day we use the RUPES long throw polishers followed by the Griot's BOSS long through polishers followed by the BEAST.

I do all of the above for a reason.

Me?

I think everyone should own a simple 8mm free spinning orbital polisher because it's simply so handy at so many things.

I wish FLEX would introduce one. I asked them to year ago when I has a SECRET meeting with the FLEX engineers. I brought this topic back up with Bob Eichelberg just about 2 weeks ago. Might be re-visiting the idea.

The issue with long stroke polishers is the outer edge of the pads gain leverage over the reciprocating components when buffing non-flat surfaces and cause pad stalling. With a short stroke polisher it's dramatically less of an issue.

I think I have an article on this topic somewhere?

Someone try looking up,

Ghosting Footprint RUPES Mike Phillips


Big picture = don't get caught up in the silliness of fillers. Focus on what's more important.



:)