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Mydnyghte
11-27-2018, 05:18 AM
Just brought home a new black Yukon and am considering putting a ceramic coating on it. It's the brand new family hauler, and we've got three small children, so I want to do everything I can to keep it looking good.
I've been reading just a bit on the coatings and want to take advantage of the sale today, so I wanted to get some recommendations. I'm leaning towards CQuartz because they've been around for quite awhile and have lots of good feedback, and was eyeballing the UK edition.
Also, what are some recommendations for interior protectants? I'd like to give the inside a fighting chance against the hazards of our kids, which is why the floor mats are coming out and floor liners are going in. However, I'd like something for the rest of the surface area as well. Thanks for any input folks!

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itsgn
11-27-2018, 08:02 AM
As a beginner, you can't go wrong with CQuartz, especially with the UK version, which can be applied even at relatively low temperatures (obviously not close to or below freezing point though), and is also very forgiving regarding buffing times. It's also less expensive than most newer coatings, while still providing a comparable - if not better - gloss and durability.

One thing to note is, that when applying a ceramic coating, it always makes sense to at least lightly polish the car (preferably with a machine polisher), in order to minimize the amount of surface defects that get locked in, to maximize the gloss, and to remove any lingering protectants (sealants, waxes) that might still be on paint and might prevent the coating from bonding properly.

As for the interior protection: CarPro also has great ceramic protectants for both leather and fabric seats (CarPro Fabric / Leather coat), and CarPro Perl (diluted at least 1:3) is also a very good dressing for all plastic interior trims.

Of course other manufacturers also have similar products that perform comparably well - I'm just mentioning CarPro products to stay "in the family", if you're already planning to apply CQUK to the paint.

Koogs
11-27-2018, 09:30 AM
I'm not a professional here, but I have used CQuartz as my first step into coatings and have been very happy with it. It was relatively easy to apply and buff. The end properties are good as well. The car stays a lot cleaner than it did with just a sealant. Keep in mind it isn't the slickest feeling or the craziest beading. And also follow the recommendation of polishing the car before applying and using something like Carpro Eraser before applying.

My other car I went with Gyeon Syncro. It feels slicker and beads better. It was more of a pain in the butt to apply, 3 coats. 2 of one item and 1 of the other with delay in between. The actual application is easy, but the time requirement was a pain.

I definitely recommend doing a coating if you're care about your cars appearance and have limited opportunity to keep up with it. Not saying you can neglect your car after doing it, but the car stays a lot nicer when life gets in the way.

Mydnyghte
11-27-2018, 05:18 PM
I'm good with it being beginner friendly! I've got a whole compliment of Wolfgang products, amongst others...from detailing my Mustang over the years, but have never messed with ceramic coatings. And I had looked into Wolfgang coating, but from what I've read it doesn't quite have the shine others do. Which is surprising, considering how amazing Fuzion looks on black.
I declined having a detail done by the dealer as I have seen first-hand what happens when a guy running a buffer doesn't know what to do. And with it being brand new, I don't want to risk having a marred palette to start with. I figured anyhow I would need to do a light polish just to ensure a clean slate.
Down the road I wouldn't be opposed to trying something more advanced, but right now I want to get something on there as I do not have a whole lot of free time. So if this will go on easy, as compared to some, and last a long time then I am all for it. This is the first brand new vehicle my wife and I have bought, so I want to make it look its best as long as possible.
I'm on board with keeping it all in the family, as I have done with Wolfgang, so would any of those products work well for prep or should I just pick up some Eraser just to be on the safe side?
I appreciate the info fellas!

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custmsprty
11-27-2018, 06:05 PM
For the interior invest in some good seat covers, nothing else will protect an interior from kids and the accidents that happen.

Eldorado2k
11-27-2018, 06:59 PM
Sear covers and rubber matts? Ahh say it ain’t so... Who’s going to be able to actually enjoy the vehicle? The next owner?[emoji19]

You only live once. Spray some Scotchgard on the carpets & matts and vacuum the interior once per week. Wipedown with quik interior detailer and you should be fine. But don’t kill it with rubber matts and seat covers.

Eldorado2k
11-27-2018, 07:17 PM
Previous owner had rubber matts.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181128/1886513d14c01a67e5dc07cc3bd6a4b0.jpg

1st thing I did was throw them in the trash. They never protect anything..

All my customers who have rubber matts just create more work when it comes time to vacuum their interior.. And to top it off the carpets underneath are always full of sand and stuff to clean up anyways, it’s like double the work.

This is the only way I roll. I have 2 cars with light carpet and they both stay clean.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181128/dd1183694cf028da61397593fa03e4fd.jpg

Mydnyghte
11-27-2018, 07:24 PM
I tried the seat cover idea on Momma, and she put that right to sleep. Which honestly, i'm not a big fan of either because I do love how the seats look. We are going to get some seat protectors for the car seats though. And I got some free Weathertech-style floor liners from the dealer, and we compromised that they would only go in the back; she likes having carpet under her feet when we travel. Which again, i'm okay with, because all that covers a good portion of what will be tread upon daily.
The seats will definitely be getting a coat of something though. The dash and trim as well, but that's not priority like the rest.

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Mydnyghte
11-27-2018, 07:26 PM
All rubber mats are designed to do is make you realize how much better life is without them. Like cats.

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itsgn
11-27-2018, 08:51 PM
so would any of those products work well for prep or should I just pick up some Eraser just to be on the safe side?
Eraser is pretty expensive, but of course it fits the purpose. And if used and applied with common sense, a 500 ml bottle should be more than enough to prep even a large SUV before coating, probably even twice. That said, if you don't have money to throw away, then I suggest you just buy some isopropyl alcohol and make your own 20-30% IPA solution, which will be more than enough for the cleaning of the paint surface right before application of the ceramic coating. It will not smell as good as does Eraser, but it will cost you only cents instead of dollars for the same amount of cleaning, and you will be not compelled to "cheap out" on the amount applied when removing stuff, which in turn might be important to get a really clean surface and to not mar the freshly polished surface with the wiping.

Also consider getting Reflect as the polishing compound, because it contains no fillers, which makes removal a lot simpler, in chemical terms, too. Make sure to work it long enough (as it's a diminishing compound), and you'll get an impressively reflective and glossy finish already on its own. Some might recommend Essence, which according to CarPro can be used as some kind of primer before ceramic coating and does not need to be fully removed before the application of the latter. But in my opinion it's mostly just for lazy people and has its own right only if you don't actually want to follow up with a full-blown ceramic coating, in which case it will save you the time and effort of applying a SiO2 wax or sealant in a separate step. But otherwise it will just diminish the quality and durability of the end result.

SWETM
11-28-2018, 02:49 AM
Eraser is pretty expensive, but of course it fits the purpose. And if used and applied with common sense, a 500 ml bottle should be more than enough to prep even a large SUV before coating, probably even twice. That said, if you don't have money to throw away, then I suggest you just buy some isopropyl alcohol and make your own 20-30% IPA solution, which will be more than enough for the cleaning of the paint surface right before application of the ceramic coating. It will not smell as good as does Eraser, but it will cost you only cents instead of dollars for the same amount of cleaning, and you will be not compelled to "cheap out" on the amount applied when removing stuff, which in turn might be important to get a really clean surface and to not mar the freshly polished surface with the wiping.

Also consider getting Reflect as the polishing compound, because it contains no fillers, which makes removal a lot simpler, in chemical terms, too. Make sure to work it long enough (as it's a diminishing compound), and you'll get an impressively reflective and glossy finish already on its own. Some might recommend Essence, which according to CarPro can be used as some kind of primer before ceramic coating and does not need to be fully removed before the application of the latter. But in my opinion it's mostly just for lazy people and has its own right only if you don't actually want to follow up with a full-blown ceramic coating, in which case it will save you the time and effort of applying a SiO2 wax or sealant in a separate step. But otherwise it will just diminish the quality and durability of the end result.

The whole reason for useing Carpro Essence is to get a greater look and a longer longevity of the Carpro Classic and CQUK coatings. As the name glossenhancing primer give a hint on. Why would it be a diminish quality and durability if used as a primer for carpros cquarts coatings?

itsgn
11-28-2018, 03:48 AM
The whole reason for useing Carpro Essence is to get a greater look and a longer longevity of the Carpro Classic and CQUK coatings.
It's not. Essence is simply a polish with SiO2 fillers in it. The latter makes it "compatible" with SiO2 coatings (which wouldn't be true for polishes with oil-based fillers), but the "whole reason being .. " thing is more than a far fetched stretch. Regardless of this information being populated on forums, and also by resellers, who are obviously interested in selling more stuff to you and more frequently than you'd need them otherwise, and make wild claims about the products they're selling.


As the name glossenhancing primer give a hint on.
That's not the name of the product. The name is "Essence" nothing more and nothing less. The word "primer" is not even on the main label. Only "Xtreme Gloss Enhancer" is there, besides "Hybrid Energy" and "Versatile use" - which obviously say actually nothing.


Why would it be a diminish quality and durability if used as a primer for carpros cquarts coatings?
For one, because with fillers also being there in the compound it means that the finish will be less perfect, because of less abrasives/volume, and because the fillers hiding the possible defects (and not even letting the abrasives get there to correct them). And the second thing is, that those SiO2 fillers (now contaminated with partially diminished abrasive particles anyway) are just not as durable as is CQUK itself - and because they laying under the latter means that they will start to affect the actual coating and diminish the appearance and properties of that sooner, than if there would be only CQUK directly binding to the raw and fully corrected paint.

----

As said, using Essence only makes sense when one is working under time-constraints, and doesn't have time for or doesn't want to do (for whatever reason) a full and proper correction. Because then it makes sense to use a polish with fillers in it, that will diminish (now using this word in a positive sense) the defects, the still remaining swirls and co., by fully or partially filling them. In this case the result will be indeed better, the level of apparent gloss higher than if one would have just used a polish with no fillers in it for the same time, which would obviously have left all the remaining defects in the clear coat fully exposed. In this case and sense such a "primer" might even enhance the properties of an added full-blown coating, because those are also affected by surface defects - and the less of these remain exposed, the better the results.

But if one is doing a full correction and/or working on a essentially flawless paint to begin with, then it just makes no sense to put anything in between the paint and the actual full-blown coating, because it will definitely not help the binding, and definitely will not enhance the gloss either. The only thing it will do is contaminate the binding surface with remnants of abrasives and carrier compounds that don't belong there in the first place and are left in an unknown state anyway.

SWETM
11-28-2018, 07:36 AM
It's not. Essence is simply a polish with SiO2 fillers in it. The latter makes it "compatible" with SiO2 coatings (which wouldn't be true for polishes with oil-based fillers), but the "whole reason being .. " thing is more than a far fetched stretch. Regardless of this information being populated on forums, and also by resellers, who are obviously interested in selling more stuff to you and more frequently than you'd need them otherwise, and make wild claims about the products they're selling.


That's not the name of the product. The name is "Essence" nothing more and nothing less. The word "primer" is not even on the main label. Only "Xtreme Gloss Enhancer" is there, besides "Hybrid Energy" and "Versatile use" - which obviously say actually nothing.


For one, because with fillers also being there in the compound it means that the finish will be less perfect, because of less abrasives/volume, and because the fillers hiding the possible defects (and not even letting the abrasives get there to correct them). And the second thing is, that those SiO2 fillers (now contaminated with partially diminished abrasive particles anyway) are just not as durable as is CQUK itself - and because they laying under the latter means that they will start to affect the actual coating and diminish the appearance and properties of that sooner, than if there would be only CQUK directly binding to the raw and fully corrected paint.

----

As said, using Essence only makes sense when one is working under time-constraints, and doesn't have time for or doesn't want to do (for whatever reason) a full and proper correction. Because then it makes sense to use a polish with fillers in it, that will diminish (now using this word in a positive sense) the defects, the still remaining swirls and co., by fully or partially filling them. In this case the result will be indeed better, the level of apparent gloss higher than if one would have just used a polish with no fillers in it for the same time, which would obviously have left all the remaining defects in the clear coat fully exposed. In this case and sense such a "primer" might even enhance the properties of an added full-blown coating, because those are also affected by surface defects - and the less of these remain exposed, the better the results.

But if one is doing a full correction and/or working on a essentially flawless paint to begin with, then it just makes no sense to put anything in between the paint and the actual full-blown coating, because it will definitely not help the binding, and definitely will not enhance the gloss either. The only thing it will do is contaminate the binding surface with remnants of abrasives and carrier compounds that don't belong there in the first place and are left in an unknown state anyway.

So the glossenhancer resins in Essence is not working on a corrected paint or flawless paint to begin with? Is they at a lower gloss than the clearcoat is. And the Sio2 protection in Essence is not working with the Sio2 in cquartz coatings? I thought they where working in synergy to ad to the longevity of cquartz coatings. And you say that the abrasives don't wipes of or that the polishing oils do not evaporate when leaved over night?
On the newer bottles it's not named as a primer. But think they where in the beginning. And also the versitale use I think has come on the bottles later on. I have only seen it been marketed as a extreme glossenhancing primer for carpros cquarts coatings. But it can be used with other protection products from Carpro too. And think that the filling ability is working on a perfect finish too. As it fills and smooth the finish more than the clearcoat it self is capable of. But hey how knows I could be very wrong about how Essence works. I'm about to pick up a bottle that waits on me at the post office. And will test it out when I get a car suited to use it on.

Koogs
11-28-2018, 09:35 AM
I'm good with it being beginner friendly! I've got a whole compliment of Wolfgang products, amongst others...from detailing my Mustang over the years, but have never messed with ceramic coatings. And I had looked into Wolfgang coating, but from what I've read it doesn't quite have the shine others do. Which is surprising, considering how amazing Fuzion looks on black.
I declined having a detail done by the dealer as I have seen first-hand what happens when a guy running a buffer doesn't know what to do. And with it being brand new, I don't want to risk having a marred palette to start with. I figured anyhow I would need to do a light polish just to ensure a clean slate.
Down the road I wouldn't be opposed to trying something more advanced, but right now I want to get something on there as I do not have a whole lot of free time. So if this will go on easy, as compared to some, and last a long time then I am all for it. This is the first brand new vehicle my wife and I have bought, so I want to make it look its best as long as possible.
I'm on board with keeping it all in the family, as I have done with Wolfgang, so would any of those products work well for prep or should I just pick up some Eraser just to be on the safe side?
I appreciate the info fellas!

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You need to wipe the car with some cleaner to get rid of the polishing oils. Either IPA or something similar to Eraser. I would think any brands version of this form of prep would be fine.
Same on the polish side. any good polish will be work as long as you're not using an all in one wax.

You can try CarPro Essence, I haven't. maybe I would next time. When I did my Subaru and I put the Gyeon coating on, I used their Primer which is similar but different. Similar as it is designed as a prep for the coatings and if you wait 24 hrs you don't have to use a prep wipe, different in that it doesn't have fillers. I didn't like it, found it hard to work with and ultimately after using it on 1 side of the car, went back with a polish to do that side again. I was told that the Subaru paint is finicky sometimes with that stuff for whatever its worth.

After everyone telling you a ton of stuff discussing the merits of Si02 infused polish etc. Don't overthink this too much. You want to polish (with your favorite polishing), prep spray, apply ceramic coating. You can debate the finer points of each part, but realistically there is a lot of personal preference it seems on all of that. I was neurotic about it since its semi permanent, and it drove me nuts trying to make sure I understood/did everything. I think this was unwarrented. The biggest take aways I had were, lots and lots of light, and it helps if you have someone helping you inspect the car to ensure the coating is completely wiped clean.

As far as the interior, I haven't done any of that besides standard leather cleaner and conditioner. I will say, what matters most is how you treat the car. Take out the garbage, not a lot of real eating in the car, rubber mats when its slushy out. I have a 6 year old Honda minivan, it has taken some bumps in the rear cargo area, but the rest of it looks pretty damn nice with cleaning/conditioning the leather 1-2 times a year, immediate clean up of real messes, not having the kids have messy drinks or food in the car, and some low impact interior wiping down a few times a year.

You might want to consider Gyeon or Carpro's leather treatment, others have used it.

itsgn
11-28-2018, 11:30 AM
So the glossenhancer resins in Essence is not working on a corrected paint or flawless paint to begin with? Is they at a lower gloss than the clearcoat is. And the Sio2 protection in Essence is not working with the Sio2 in cquartz coatings? I thought they where working in synergy to ad to the longevity of cquartz coatings. And you say that the abrasives don't wipes of or that the polishing oils do not evaporate when leaved over night?
Maybe you should ask those questions someone who actually said anything along the lines you're asking confirmation for. Because I for one definitely didn't.


On the newer bottles it's not named as a primer. But think they where in the beginning.
Even if this is true, don't you think there was a reason why the manufacturer changed the labeling and removed any mentions of a "primer" from it? And why would a manufacturer remove the mention of the supposed primary use and purpose of a product from the product label anyway (provided it would still be the primary intended use of said product)? Obviously it wouldn't.


And also the versitale use I think has come on the bottles later on. I have only seen it been marketed as a extreme glossenhancing primer for carpros cquarts coatings.
Now does that say something about the product, or about what you've seen (or remember having seen) it marketed as? As said, salespeople tend to make wild claims, and a lot of them have no real understanding of the products they're selling either. Because they're salespeople who sell this stuff and are good at selling, and not detailers, who actually use said products, and have first hand experience with and knowledge of it, and - in an ideal case - have an understanding of the detailing process. Of course word of mouth also usually heavily alters the original information as its spreading, which doesn't help either.


But it can be used with other protection products from Carpro too.
Which is not in conflict with anything I said.


And think that the filling ability is working on a perfect finish too.
And what exactly do you think is then it filling? A perfect finish means there are no scratches left to fill.


As it fills and smooth the finish more than the clearcoat it self is capable of.
The clear coat does not fill anything. The clear coat is what might have scratches in it, and what gets perfectly* flattened by the polishing process when it gets fully corrected. Or what gets its not-too-deep scratches filled up to level by a polisher compound with fillers in it. That's exactly what a wax, sealant or coating is doing, and that's how they're making the paint glossier. Ie. by filling the "valleys" of the remaining scratches up to level with their particles. (Some might even layer above the level of the paint, creating an even more uniform surface - these are the product we typically call coatings.)

That's also how Essence is also making the paint more glossy once you stopped working it: its remaining SiO2 particles fill the valleys of the remaining scratches. Which is however pretty pointless when you're about to apply a coating which will essentially do the same thing anyway, but which will now not be able to bind directly to the paint - especially not in those valleys -, but will have the remnants of Essence: a mix of partially diminished abrasives and carrier compounds in the way.

Now, the SiO2 particles in Essence will make sure that even in this case your coating won't be repelled and will be able to bind (to a degree), but it will bind only to them, not to the paint directly. And, as with any chain (in this case a "chain" of materials binding to each other), its final strength will be determined by its weakest link - which will be Essence in this case. Whereas if you'd have applied the coating directly to the paint, the strength of the link wouldn't have been weakened by Essence in between the paint and the coating.

*The meaning of "perfect" is obviously tied to the grit level of the compound used, and not true at the nano-scale, because, well, molecules, crystalline structures, polymer links, etc. aren't perfectly flat either.


But hey how knows I could be very wrong about how Essence works. I'm about to pick up a bottle that waits on me at the post office. And will test it out when I get a car suited to use it on.
Do so! Even though I'm not sure I understand what kind of insight and how you plan getting from this, especially in the short term.