Questions Regarding Detailing Single Stage Paint E30 BMW

[wrr1020]

Hello everyone, very soon i'll be tackling the paint on my E30 Touring. It's been a long time coming this project so i'm pretty excited to do it. Since the paint is single stage i'm going to let the paint sit with Meguiar's #7 like Mike Phillips mentions in his detailing single stage paint articles.

I'm just not entirely sure what products to use after this. The car is swirled and has water spots as well as some light scratches. I have the Boss Perfecting Cream line and wanted to know if this would be good for it. I've never detailed single stage paint and have only worked over clearcoat. It's worked well on that but don't know what it will be like on SS. I won't be starting this project for another few weeks so i'd like to get some input on best products. I've read very good things about the Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover and Advanced Finishing Polish. I feel I will probably get the same if not very similar results with the BOSS creams already so i don't want to spend money on something if I don't need to. Everything will be used with a Griot's Garage random orbital. I may be purchasing a Flex 3401 soon for myself as an early Christmas present though :laughing:

Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks everyone!

[SWETM]

If the paint seems to be very dry and a lot of oxidized paint on it. I would also do the #7 rubb down. If it's not that dry and oxidized I have seen some to polishing with the #7 instead. Think they used a light cutting polishing pad. To clean the paint and rubb in the trade secret oils in the #7. As I understand it you can get enough of the oils and get the most of the oxidized paint off that way too. Cause the #7 rubb down needs a lot of elbow grease when both rubbing it in and wiping it off. And do it with a polisher you have the wiping off to work with. But I understand if you want to go with the hand application and let it sit over night. Think there is thread on here where they decided to use the polisher instead. Maybe one of the forums members that did this can shime in. Or if anyone remember the thread I was thinking of.

Otherwise it's the the test spot that decide for you which combo of pad and polish to go with. And make sure you have enough pads and even some extra in each color. There are going to be a lot of them you need to use. And if you have a lot of oxidized paint. The cutting step can clogg your pads fast. Compressed air if you a air compressor is the most effective way to clean the pads between each section. Or look if you can borrow one or even buying.

And feel the paint if you see the polish starts drying on you while polishing. So you don't get the paint and the pad to hot. Some paints need a little more polish on the pad than useally. Just don't saturate the pad lol.

Work clean and see what happens when you polishing and you will be fine. And don't forget to take pictures before you start. As when you have started you can not get back. And would be fun to follow your progress here on the forum.

What color is the BMW?

/Tony

[wrr1020]

If the paint seems to be very dry and a lot of oxidized paint on it. I would also do the #7 rubb down. If it's not that dry and oxidized I have seen some to polishing with the #7 instead. Think they used a light cutting polishing pad. To clean the paint and rubb in the trade secret oils in the #7. As I understand it you can get enough of the oils and get the most of the oxidized paint off that way too. Cause the #7 rubb down needs a lot of elbow grease when both rubbing it in and wiping it off. And do it with a polisher you have the wiping off to work with. But I understand if you want to go with the hand application and let it sit over night. Think there is thread on here where they decided to use the polisher instead. Maybe one of the forums members that did this can shime in. Or if anyone remember the thread I was thinking of.

Otherwise it's the the test spot that decide for you which combo of pad and polish to go with. And make sure you have enough pads and even some extra in each color. There are going to be a lot of them you need to use. And if you have a lot of oxidized paint. The cutting step can clogg your pads fast. Compressed air if you a air compressor is the most effective way to clean the pads between each section. Or look if you can borrow one or even buying.

And feel the paint if you see the polish starts drying on you while polishing. So you don't get the paint and the pad to hot. Some paints need a little more polish on the pad than useally. Just don't saturate the pad lol.

Work clean and see what happens when you polishing and you will be fine. And don't forget to take pictures before you start. As when you have started you can not get back. And would be fun to follow your progress here on the forum.

What color is the BMW?

/Tony

Thank you very much for the info. I'll definitely try different combinations and I also have several pads on hand and I will be ordering more soon. The car is red.

[Breese147]

My experience polishing white single stage Toyota paint was that it was pretty hard. I let #7 sit after decon wash about a week prior and then polished out the next week. +1 on adding extra polish specifically compound as well I would add a spray or 2 of detail spray every pass. I only had 4 pads of each so I had to clean constantly and I spread it out over the entire weekend . I used a pad cleaning brush to remove the built up paint residue.6527065271


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