Need advice on rotary decision

[tattooman]

Hi friends. Haven't posted for a while because I got caught up in a large outdoor summer project that took most of my summer energy in the heat, temporarily foregoing my detailing activities.

Anyway I own a XC 3401 VRG and it is a great machine. But I also need a rotary for three addtional functions I want to expand into:

1. Occasional panel heavy paint correction with more mojo (faster) than my 3401
2. Frequent headlight lens polishing work
3. Frequent windsheild polishing with cerium oxide

So my question is could I do all three functions with only one of the Flex rotary car polishers ? For example could I use a backing plate SMALLER than 6in on a PE 14-2 150 for headlights, or a backing plate LARGER than 3in on a PE8-4 80 for panels and windsheilds ? I think I could do all of these functions with a 4 in backing plate but I don't know if either of those Flex machines could perform all three functions with a 4in backing plate. I can't justify both machines right now so what could you guys recommend ? I'm very fond of Flex build quality and handling so I'd like to stick with the brand though I'm not married to it.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks.

[wing commander]

The PE-14 with the lake country extensions will do all of that perfectly and has a better rpm range than the PE-8. I own both. These are the extensions Lake Country Rotary Extensions Kit (https://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-rotary-extension-kit.html)

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

I own both. I wouldn’t want to do any large panel polishing as you say with the PE-8. For what you want to do, a smaller pad on the PE14 is the way to go. It’s a great machine, you won’t regret it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[SWETM]

If you plan on getting both down the road I would go with the pe14-2 first. Then if want you can get extensions and the different sizes of the backing plates. And ad the P8-4 if you feel like you need to later. With the P8-4 the downside is you don't get to use a bigger backing plate than a 3" one. This is to the higher rpm and the torque. With the PE14-2 you need to ramp up the rpm when useing the 3" backing plate and smaller. With that said still get a good polishing with smaller backing plates and pads with it.

An option in your situation if you only plan on getting one of them and not adding one later on. Have a look at the Flex L3403vrg. It's a great rotary polisher to use with 5" and smaller backing plates. 1100-3700rpm range is a good range for these sizes of the backing plates. And almost the same body as the 3401vrg.

FLEX L3403 VRG Lightweight Circular Polisher, FLEX rotary polisher, high speed professional buffer, car buffer, german polisher (https://www.autogeek.net/flex-l3403vrg-rotary-polisher.html)

[tattooman]

Ah that's important, I didn't think of that. so with the higher rpm range of the Flex Le403vrg I can use a much smaller back plate for headlights and such. Can I use a 4 inch back plate with that machine ? Does anyone make a 4 in back plate with a 5/8 whatever type of mount for that machine ? Brilliant SWETM, Thanks.

[Farmallluvr]

I have 2 Makitas and a Milwaukee,,although the model #'s escape me the Makitas are sold here ar autogeek.
Makita 9227C 7 inch Circular Polisher (https://www.autogeek.net/ma927po.html)

The Milwaukee (#9260 maybe)I have owned since 1994 and has been extremely reliable over the years only needing a trigger and brushes,it's 0 to 1750 variable speed and a pound or 2 heavier than the Makitas

when I am doing heavy duty compounding I actually prefer the Milwaukee because of the weight,,it is lighter than the cast aluminum Sioux I learned on ,,lol

[Mike Phillips]

This comment below...






For what you want to do, a smaller pad on the PE14 is the way to go.

It’s a great machine, you won’t regret it.






Been using a rotary since I started detailing. Used most on the market, not all but most. Get the PE14 - you won't regret it.


When I teach ANY class here at Autogeek, everyone in the class wants the FLEX PE14. No one wants to use the full size rotary buffers. No one. I think I have 20 FLEX PE14 rotary polishers in Autogeek's Show Car Garage and normally I don't have classes larger than 24 people so MOST of the time everyone gets to use the FLEX PE14 when it comes to doing rotary work. But for the larger classes, for example the boat class this last February had 24 people in it, some people have to use the larger rotary machines. Sure they work but everyone wants to use the FLEX PE14. Again, been doing this a long time.

The FLEX PE14 offers the lowest RPM - 400 RPM at the trigger and locked at 600 RPM. You don't need to buff any slower than 400 RPM. It has a high of 2100 RPM. You don't need to buff anything any faster than this speed. It's compact in size and lightweight. It also has machined stainless steel gears. All the other rotary buffers have stamped steel gears. The difference is in how QUIET the FLEX PE14 is compared to how the other growl as they run.


It's a chunk of money but notice - you NEVER see one for sell used.


The FLEX PE14 will do EVERYTHING any other rotary on the market will do and do it more quietly and with less weight and bulk. I never grab anything else when I have to do rotary work and often times I now grab the cordless FLEX PE14.


Here's something I wrote a few years back...

The Flex PE14 Rotary Polisher - The rotary I grab first... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/75923-flex-pe14-rotary-polisher-rotary-i-grab-first.html)


Not trying to sell you... trying to do you a favor.


:)

[jolo]

Listen to what Mike is saying. We do a LOT of boat detail Compound and polish gelcoat is NO joke!!

9 times out of 10 we grab the Flex PE14

[tattooman]

Thank You very much Mike.

I was originally going for the PE14, but because I wanted to also use it with 3 inch backing plate for headlight work, I thought the max 2100 rpm would be too slow for a 3-inch plate/pad, not having enough speed for headlights or narrow panel strips.

If the 2100 IS fast enough for a 3-inch plate/pad, then I'd rather go with the PE14, because I like the low rpm range for paint correction, as you said you'd never need more rpm than its max rpm spec of 2100.

Do you think I could make this work using 3-inch plate/pads for narrow panel pieces and headlights, as well as 5 inch pads at max 2100 rpm for Glass using Cerium Oxide ? These are the only reasons I had considered the 3403 at 3700 rpm.

Can you advise me further ?

Thanks Mike.

[Mike Phillips]

Thank You very much Mike.

I was originally going for the PE14, but because I wanted to also use it with 3 inch backing plate for headlight work, I thought the max 2100 rpm would be too slow for a 3-inch plate/pad, not having enough speed for headlights or narrow panel strips.



Actually, 3" pads are difficult to maneuver no matter which rotary buffer you choose to use.

I buff out a lot of headlights and a lot of everything, and with the FLEX PE14 you want a 6.5" or a 7.5" wool cutting pad, (NORMAL WOOL CUTTING PAD), and you learn or teach yourself to do as I call it,

Go up on edge


That is, you don't buff flat you hold the tool so you're only buffing with 1/3 of the face of the pad on edge. I'll find a picture and share it to show what I mean. Thus a large pad becomes a SMALL pad due to your TECHNIQUE.





If the 2100 IS fast enough for a 3-inch plate/pad, then I'd rather go with the PE14, because I like the low rpm range for paint correction, as you said you'd never need more rpm than its max rpm spec of 2100.

Do you think I could make this work using 3-inch plate/pads for narrow panel pieces and headlights, as well as 5 inch pads at max 2100 rpm for Glass using Cerium Oxide ? These are the only reasons I had considered the 3403 at 3700 rpm.

Can you advise me further ?

Thanks Mike.


I never buff faster that 2000 RPM and certainly would never go to 2500 RPM and even more so never go to 3700 RPM. I'll ask Bob Eichelburg at SEMA next week what the purpose of the super high RPM is for the 3403 because it's certainly not for car paint. In my how-to book, "The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine" I use a term,

Destructive Paint Polishing


This is the term that applies when you heat the paint over 180 degrees. You don't want to heat paint up. That's old school guys mis-information and bad technique.


Get the PE14 and a good 6.5" or 7.5" wool cutting pad and you can tackle anything including headlights.


:)

[tattooman]

Beautiful Mike, that makes sense. Ok, I'm back to the PE14. Now about glass:

Will the 2100 max rpm of the PE14 be fast enough for cerium oxide on windshields using those super thin while pads that glass people say to use ? The windshield glass on my F150 is tore the heck up with hundreds of teeny weenie sand-sized pock mark craters and subtle sand-induced wiper scratches arching over the glass with the direction of the wipers.

I'm assuming cerium oxide is the proper way to cut or knock these guys out of the glass.

So am I on the right track with the glass thing, and is the PE14 fast enough in rpm's to handle windshield glass ?

Thanks.

[Mike Phillips]

Beautiful Mike, that makes sense. Ok, I'm back to the PE14. Now about glass:

Will the 2100 max rpm of the PE14 be fast enough for cerium oxide on windshields using those super thin while pads that glass people say to use ? The windshield glass on my F150 is tore the heck up with hundreds of teeny weenie sand-sized pock mark craters and subtle sand-induced wiper scratches arching over the glass with the direction of the wipers.

I'm assuming cerium oxide is the proper way to cut or knock these guys out of the glass.

So am I on the right track with the glass thing, and is the PE14 fast enough in rpm's to handle windshield glass ?

Thanks.


Have you seen any of my articles on glass polishing?

I show how to do it with rotary and with simple DA.

Simple DA = ANY free spinning 8mm random orbital polisher.



:)