Best way to remove stubborn paint stains?

[Bgates222]

Can somebody help me figure out the best way to remove these stains. I tried washing the car with clean slate which was pretty much like washing it with water but after that I clayed the car but these stains still stayed. I did not do an iron decontamination or tar removal do you guys think that’s what these stains are? One stain looks like it may be iron and the other just looks like bird poop that’s been left in the sun so long it’s won’t come off. What are my options? Tar and iron remover then clay again? I’m assuming any kind of polish will just polish the stain into the paint sorry for the pics hope they’re good enough and as usual thanks in advance https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/d2ba64eb2d458d8f42d2d8719c71d3a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/c26c55fa988ce99ac92759ae94ce3206.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/ccf3976638a98e69d4a90fc317a6e697.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/b15963c02d040f99292c1c56d1e88367.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/9f2d997cb9e2d29a14fcb734fc839de5.jpg


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[MattPersman]

First one looks like a rust bloom spot. Should come off with an AIO, iron remover, clay etc.

Second one hard to tell may take a bit of polishing even compound to remove

Hopefully you will get it handled with out breaking the bank or your sanity


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[Bgates222]

Yeah I tried the clay route but in the end it felt as if I was scrubbing dirty dishes so maybe a light polish will work after I try the iron remover


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[Bobby B.]

I would use and Iron Remover, Clay Bar, and Polish with DA Polisher.

BLACKFIRE Iron Remover (https://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-iron-remover.html)
BLACKFIRE Poly Clay & Lubricant Combo - Fine Grade (https://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-fine-clay-kit.html)
BLACKFIRE One Step, BLACKFIRE Total Polish & Seal, polish and wax, cleaner wax, car polish (https://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-total-polish-seal.html)

[SWETM]

The first one looks like an iron partical that has oxidized during a long time. When you use an iron remover on that kind of hard embedded iron partical. You can need to be doing several application of it. If it starts to bleed let it dwell for as long as possible and then rinse it off. Dry it and apply again and if it still bleeds you let dwell and not so long so it dries. Iron remover reacts on the oxidized part of the iron partical. That is why I recommend several applications. So the rust (oxidized iron) gets desolved. If you go to soon with the following claying you rip it out of the paint. And if to much of the oxidized iron is left you damage the clearcoat more than needs to be done. Many and my self included think that one application is enough to get it out. And many times even if you clay it it still is embedded so hard that it don't gets out of the paint. So an easy way is to apply the iron remover and see if you still get the bleeding from it. That is also what makes the difference with iron removers in how concentrated they are. The Carpro IronX is known for be very effective and is often worth what you getting from it.

The other pictures seems to be a mix of tree sap and tar spots from what I can see. And tree sap can be doing etching on the paint. A tar remover and see where it gets you. Apply on dry paint is the most effective. And sometimes a lightly aggitations with a mf towel or mf sponge gets it more effective. The same with the aggitations when you have applyied the iron remover a couple of times before you you do it. Then move on to clay the paint and polishing it.

And as long as the chemicals don't dry on the paint and you rinse them off thoroughly and even a wash after. You are going to be fine.

/Tony

[Bgates222]

The first one looks like an iron partical that has oxidized during a long time. When you use an iron remover on that kind of hard embedded iron partical. You can need to be doing several application of it. If it starts to bleed let it dwell for as long as possible and then rinse it off. Dry it and apply again and if it still bleeds you let dwell and not so long so it dries. Iron remover reacts on the oxidized part of the iron partical. That is why I recommend several applications. So the rust (oxidized iron) gets desolved. If you go to soon with the following claying you rip it out of the paint. And if to much of the oxidized iron is left you damage the clearcoat more than needs to be done. Many and my self included think that one application is enough to get it out. And many times even if you clay it it still is embedded so hard that it don't gets out of the paint. So an easy way is to apply the iron remover and see if you still get the bleeding from it. That is also what makes the difference with iron removers in how concentrated they are. The Carpro IronX is known for be very effective and is often worth what you getting from it.

The other pictures seems to be a mix of tree sap and tar spots from what I can see. And tree sap can be doing etching on the paint. A tar remover and see where it gets you. Apply on dry paint is the most effective. And sometimes a lightly aggitations with a mf towel or mf sponge gets it more effective. The same with the aggitations when you have applyied the iron remover a couple of times before you you do it. Then move on to clay the paint and polishing it.

And as long as the chemicals don't dry on the paint and you rinse them off thoroughly and even a wash after. You are going to be fine.

/Tony

Thanks man I’ll try that


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