Clay before topper?

[Belo]

In June I laid down some MK360 on my silverado. Since then it's been washed and had some extender wax applied a few times and while diminishing, the sealant from the 360 is still going strong. As I get ready for winter I want to apply some 10 minute sealant or sonax spray and wax (still not sure which).

Question I have is, should I clay after wash or will this remove any remaining 360?

thanks

[Desertnate]

It might not remove all of it, but it will probably degrade what is left.

I normally won't clay unless I am going to polish as well since claying may leave light marring. If you are wanting to make sure the surface is really clean, why not do a wipe down with a coating prep spray after a good wash and then go straight to the LSP. It won't deep clean like clay, but should make sure the surface is really clean and ready for the next product.

[Belo]

thanks nate, that's kind of what I thought. It's not that I'm really looking for a perfectly clean surface, as much as I am trying to keep the junk off for longer? If that makes any sense... haha. Since I got my griots mitt, I'm enjoying claying a lot more than I used to.

I will probably just do a good wash and then apply.

[Jon TDS]

Hi which color is your Silverado? I mean if time is of essence and the POTENTIAL marring won't be seen as easy as for dark vehicles I would clay to get it smooth and optimum bonding for your lsp.

Try coating! It'll be my first winter so I coated our car to get the most protection.

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

[Belo]

Hi which color is your Silverado? I mean if time is of essence and the POTENTIAL marring won't be seen as easy as for dark vehicles I would clay to get it smooth and optimum bonding for your lsp.

Try coating! It'll be my first winter so I coated our car to get the most protection.

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

blue. Not really into coating yet, but that's a different subject haha.

[Jon TDS]

Haha! I bought the coating when there was a sale. Held until it for several weeks then decided to just do it!

Now I know what they're talking about when it comes to high spots etc. Haha!

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

[SWETM]

Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay, clay bars, auto clay, paint cleaning bar (https://www.autogeek.net/sonus-sfx-detailing-clay.html)

Sonus Glyde Clay Lubricant, clay bar lube, detailing clay, auto clay (https://www.autogeek.net/sonus-glyde-clay-lubricant.html)

Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lubricant Concentrate, born slippy clay lube, detailing clay lubricant, clay lube concentrate (https://www.autogeek.net/born-slippy-clay-lube.html)

It can be done to clay and have the LSP left. And since you are going to apply a topper. It can be an option to do. Sonüs Ultra Fine Clay and the Sonüs claylube or Dodo Juice Born Slippy Claylube Concentrate combo is the most gentle I know of.

Don't know how chemical resistant the McKees 37 360 is. If it is that you could chemical decon the paint instead. Wash the car and if possible do it with Carpro Reset. And then get the lower panels and the back of the car with a tar remover. If you have some tree sap or other oily contaminants on other parts of the car you can apply it on those too. Or even on the whole car if necessary. Then if you have oxidized iron particals you treat it with an iron remover. Do a test spot and see if you get any bleeding. Do it behind the front wheels and back of the car. This will often get the water behavior back if that has degraded some. And even the embedded contaminants that is oil based grime. The use of Reset when you wash and do it a couple of times before you are applying the topper could be enough too. If you don't have to much of contaminants. Just dilute properly or even a little less. Do you use to much of Reset so you get a stronger wash solution. You can be degradeing your LSP. With 1:500-1:800 dilution you have a great lubrication and cleaning ability from Reset. I always check the paint for which contaminants it's on the paint if any. If I would apply a LSP with a long longevity from it. And do what I can to get the contaminants off before applying a LSP with a longevity like the 10min sealant seems to have. If the paint is smooth and clear I just wash with Carpro Reset and apply the topper after drying. Get a great longevity from the toppers I have applyied so far. Now a little over 1 1/2 year since the last polishing was done. It's time for polishing again. Mostly from the winter when takeing of the snow some marring was made. And very little marring from the washing and drying to clean up with a finishing polish. Have used some different LSP and toppers during this time. And the embedded contaminants is lower than I thought it to be. No claying has been done. Just decon washes and the use mostly of Reset has worked great for me. So some options if you like to try :)

/Tony

[Belo]

Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay, clay bars, auto clay, paint cleaning bar (https://www.autogeek.net/sonus-sfx-detailing-clay.html)

Sonus Glyde Clay Lubricant, clay bar lube, detailing clay, auto clay (https://www.autogeek.net/sonus-glyde-clay-lubricant.html)

Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lubricant Concentrate, born slippy clay lube, detailing clay lubricant, clay lube concentrate (https://www.autogeek.net/born-slippy-clay-lube.html)

It can be done to clay and have the LSP left. And since you are going to apply a topper. It can be an option to do. Sonüs Ultra Fine Clay and the Sonüs claylube or Dodo Juice Born Slippy Claylube Concentrate combo is the most gentle I know of.

Don't know how chemical resistant the McKees 37 360 is. If it is that you could chemical decon the paint instead. Wash the car and if possible do it with Carpro Reset. And then get the lower panels and the back of the car with a tar remover. If you have some tree sap or other oily contaminants on other parts of the car you can apply it on those too. Or even on the whole car if necessary. Then if you have oxidized iron particals you treat it with an iron remover. Do a test spot and see if you get any bleeding. Do it behind the front wheels and back of the car. This will often get the water behavior back if that has degraded some. And even the embedded contaminants that is oil based grime. The use of Reset when you wash and do it a couple of times before you are applying the topper could be enough too. If you don't have to much of contaminants. Just dilute properly or even a little less. Do you use to much of Reset so you get a stronger wash solution. You can be degradeing your LSP. With 1:500-1:800 dilution you have a great lubrication and cleaning ability from Reset. I always check the paint for which contaminants it's on the paint if any. If I would apply a LSP with a long longevity from it. And do what I can to get the contaminants off before applying a LSP with a longevity like the 10min sealant seems to have. If the paint is smooth and clear I just wash with Carpro Reset and apply the topper after drying. Get a great longevity from the toppers I have applyied so far. Now a little over 1 1/2 year since the last polishing was done. It's time for polishing again. Mostly from the winter when takeing of the snow some marring was made. And very little marring from the washing and drying to clean up with a finishing polish. Have used some different LSP and toppers during this time. And the embedded contaminants is lower than I thought it to be. No claying has been done. Just decon washes and the use mostly of Reset has worked great for me. So some options if you like to try :)

/Tony

this is good advice, thank you. The truck sits most of summer with an occasional commute or camping trip so it's not really all that exposed and looks good, of course that's the irony... clay often removes what we cant see haha. I also am really only considering the step because the griots synthetic clay mit I bought makes this task a lot easier and not as frustrating and time consuming as the traditional clay.

Point is... I'm not sure my truck "needs" it, but if it didn't hurt I would do it. But as I expected and yall have reinforced, it will remove at least some, if not all residual protection so I think I'll just wash and spray seal.

thanks all for the advice and info. this place is great!

[Paul A.]

I clay if it needs it. Period. I use the baggie test on mine about every 3-4 months. Sometimes it needs it and some times it doesn't. When I clay, it will also get a polish or a cut and polish as a result of the claying process.

[Belo]

I clay if it needs it. Period. I use the baggie test on mine about every 3-4 months. Sometimes it needs it and some times it doesn't. When I clay, it will also get a polish or a cut and polish as a result of the claying process.

thank you paul you bring up a good point. A clay might require a polish and this time a year I'm super busy bowhunting, fall chores and sitting on the couch sunday watching football. I just don't have the time for the whole day/weekend detail, but do want to add some protection prior to the upstate NY winter.

[Kamakaz1961]

A good way to check to see if you need to Clay/Nanoskin your ride is to do the baggie test. If it passes the baggie test then LSP away!

Have a great day and pics when you are done!