How to approach waterless wash on a dirty car?

[Vifa]

Hi,

Let me start telling you that I always use a waterless wash on my old cars. This is to avoid water from getting into places that it is not supposed to. My Dodge ´49 would for instance get water behind the dashboard even if a smaller amount of water hit the front windows. A lot of people ask why I do waterless washes - and now you know why.

Well, I would like to know how you would approach a dirty car with a waterless wash method?

Common sense tells me not to do a waterless wash on a muddy car for quite obvious reasons.
But what then? .. When you in my case would avoid using a hose as you know you practically would flood the car - what do you then do?

[ski2]

Have you tried a rinseless wash???

[acuRAS82]

Pre-soak with the waterless spray a lot. If possible without flooding, use Rinseless (or even hose rinse) on lower panels if they are muddiest.

[kevincwelch]

My opinion on this will certainly differ from many of my colleagues here. I think waterless washes should be used only in rare circumstances, and that's when you might consider otherwise using a quick detailer. Personally, I don't think quick detailers have any role in car maintenance. I personally don't see why one would use a quick detailer when one could use a waterless wash, which has more lubrication and is generally safer for applying to paint.

The minimum wash -- you know, to actually clean the car -- I would do for any type of car is a rinseless wash, but only after I had sprayed off the bulk of the dirt using a pressure washer or hose and pre-sprayed the car to let it soak.

Basically, I use a waterless wash only when there is a layer of dust but not much more on the car. I realize this might be a bit excessive, but I put so much work into detailing and correcting the paint of my car that I'm not going to do anything that might possibly screw it up.

[Vifa]

Hi all,

Thank you for all your replies.
On my newer cars I wouldn't hesitate to do a normal car wash as I know these are 99,9% waterproof.
I have never tried a rinseless wash before, but I just watched some video by Mike Phillips on youtube. Isn't a rinseless wash practically the same as a normal car wash, just without the hose part?

But still, is it a good idea using a wash mitt on a muddy or dusty car - rubbing all the particles into to scratces?

As acuRAS82 mentioned, lower panels could be cleaned by using a hose - that is no problem. But sometimes you get a lot of dust and dirt on the horizontal panels too, and this seems to be quite diffecult to clean when you are limited to not using a hose.

[mk9750]

Vifa,

If you watch any of the tutorial videos, especially Mike Phillip's videos, they demonstrate a technique that calls for lifting the front edge of the towel up, and only taking one pass per "side" of the towel. Fold the towel into quarters, and you'll have 8 "sides" with which to work (four exposed, and then reverse the towel for four more "sides"). Using this method, my 2007 Lexus ES350 (a mid size to large sedan) takes me 10 or so towels. In the winter, I repeat the process, using VERY little pressure the first pass, and then medium pressure the second. So during the winter, I plan on the process taking me 20 or so towels. But it works well, even with the salt grime my car picks up during the winter.

Hope this helps.

[mk9750]

A small clarification:
"they demonstrate a technique that calls for lifting the front edge of the towel up ROLLING THE TOWEL SO A NEW SECTION OF THE TOWEL IS CONTACTING THE PAINT DURING THE SWIPE, and only taking one pass per "side" of the towel.

The additional part of the technique is what keeps one from dragging dirt across their paint.

Sorry I was not more clear in my first response.

[Belo]

My opinion on this will certainly differ from many of my colleagues here. I think waterless washes should be used only in rare circumstances, and that's when you might consider otherwise using a quick detailer. Personally, I don't think quick detailers have any role in car maintenance. I personally don't see why one would use a quick detailer when one could use a waterless wash, which has more lubrication and is generally safer for applying to paint.

The minimum wash -- you know, to actually clean the car -- I would do for any type of car is a rinseless wash, but only after I had sprayed off the bulk of the dirt using a pressure washer or hose and pre-sprayed the car to let it soak.

Basically, I use a waterless wash only when there is a layer of dust but not much more on the car. I realize this might be a bit excessive, but I put so much work into detailing and correcting the paint of my car that I'm not going to do anything that might possibly screw it up.

I use a quick detailer occasionally AFTER a wash if I'm looking for a little extra shine for only another 15 minutes or so worth of work. I don't really consider it maintenance as much as appearance.

[TTQ B4U]

A small clarification:
"they demonstrate a technique that calls for lifting the front edge of the towel up ROLLING THE TOWEL SO A NEW SECTION OF THE TOWEL IS CONTACTING THE PAINT DURING THE SWIPE, and only taking one pass per "side" of the towel. The additional part of the technique is what keeps one from dragging dirt across their paint.



I will add to the thread that "Waterless" is for me only used on a dusty car or perhaps a coated car that's been through rain and still only dusty with dirt. I use mainly "Rinseless" washing in the winter or on what I call a dirty vehicle.

In terms of the rolling technique, I use that for sure and in both cases of waterless or rinseless, my modified technique is that I NEVER use a dry rag. My wash rag is always fairly wet (I know contrary to many who do waterless) and even my follow up ones are never dry. I ALWAYS use a damp rag that has Rinseless solution and distilled water in it.

Doing the above results in zero issues.

[Desertnate]

My opinion on this will certainly differ from many of my colleagues here. I think waterless washes should be used only in rare circumstances, and that's when you might consider otherwise using a quick detailer. Personally, I don't think quick detailers have any role in car maintenance. I personally don't see why one would use a quick detailer when one could use a waterless wash, which has more lubrication and is generally safer for applying to paint.

The minimum wash -- you know, to actually clean the car -- I would do for any type of car is a rinseless wash, but only after I had sprayed off the bulk of the dirt using a pressure washer or hose and pre-sprayed the car to let it soak.

Basically, I use a waterless wash only when there is a layer of dust but not much more on the car. I realize this might be a bit excessive, but I put so much work into detailing and correcting the paint of my car that I'm not going to do anything that might possibly screw it up.

I actually agree. I'm a hard-core bucket wash type of person, but a waterless wash and rinseless wash technique/product does have it's place. Over time, I'm starting to see I can use a waterless wash for the same purposes I used a QD (and more!) and the results actually turn out better. The bottle of QD on my shelf today will probably be my last.

One thing you didn't mention is the economics of the waterless washes. Some of the products like ECH2O can be mixed up in a variety of ratios depending on the purpose, but any way you go, the price per volume is far less than what is spent on a bottle of RTU QD spray.


I use a quick detailer occasionally AFTER a wash if I'm looking for a little extra shine for only another 15 minutes or so worth of work. I don't really consider it maintenance as much as appearance.

I use a QD for the same purpose, or as a drying aid. However, I've found waterless washes product the same results with better lubrication (in some cases) and at lower cost. Today I have some waterless wash AND QD. Going forward I'll simply use the waterless wash for everything.

Back to the OP: If you can't hose off the heavy dirt/mud due to water intrusion problems, could you lay a soaked towel on the bad area (i.e. mud splatter) to let it soften things up and then VERY GENTLY use a rinseless or waterless wash?

[Thomkirby]

For your 49Dodge the rinseless method will resolve the issue around the windshield. For the heavier grit on lower panels soak or spray with hose or even use a hand sprayer. That way you control the water volume an where it goes. Sounds like time to fix that windshield leaks. One last odd thought is to use an airless paint sprayer to give a bit of pressure over the grit. Dallas paint and correction did a video on that for use on wheels.

[Vifa]

Vifa,

If you watch any of the tutorial videos, especially Mike Phillip's videos, they demonstrate a technique that calls for lifting the front edge of the towel up, and only taking one pass per "side" of the towel. Fold the towel into quarters, and you'll have 8 "sides" with which to work (four exposed, and then reverse the towel for four more "sides"). Using this method, my 2007 Lexus ES350 (a mid size to large sedan) takes me 10 or so towels. In the winter, I repeat the process, using VERY little pressure the first pass, and then medium pressure the second. So during the winter, I plan on the process taking me 20 or so towels. But it works well, even with the salt grime my car picks up during the winter.

Hope this helps.

I have watched a lot of his videos but I must have missed that.
Can you please share a link to one of the videos where he demonstrates this technique?

For those of you who use waterless wash products instead of quick detailers - would you still use a waterless wash sprayer as lubricant while claying?

And by the way, thank you for all the great inputs - I appreciate it.

[mk9750]

Vifa, that was a heck of a challenge. I had to spend almost two hours looking, but I finally found what I remembered:

YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLf9SO3pQlzJ-WLpwg7U4mUqaB4UuPQ91m&v=x2uSYvuLucA)


Watch the entire video, but the rolling technique I mentioned starts @ 3:20 or so. Although it is true that what I described is even more conservative, the idea is about the same.

I hope the link works, but the video is titled How to do Proper Washing and Drying Techniques (Mike Phillips and Autogeek, date unknown)(I apologize for not crediting more completely).

Hope this is helpful.

[Mike Phillips]

Best way to wash a car is with running water. This is how I wash my own cars.

Waterless and Rinseless washes are for people that DON'T have access to running water. These people exist.

I use waterless wash for most of the "cool" cars I wash because as a professional courtesy to the owners of these cars I don't introduce water to places it can cause rust.

Did you see my Facebook page yesterday?

I did a waterless wash to a 1968 Mustang that was ABSOLUTELY FILTHY.

Mike Phillips - Home | Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/Mike.Phillips.Autogeek/)


:)

[FUNX650]

Let me start telling you that I always
use a waterless wash on my old cars.
This is to avoid water from getting into
places that it is not supposed to.

My Dodge ‘49 would for instance get water
behind the dashboard even if a smaller
amount of water hit the front windows.

Well, I would like to know how you
would approach a dirty car with a
waterless wash method?

Common sense tells me not to do a
waterless wash on a muddy car for
quite obvious reasons. But what then?

When you in my case would avoid using
a hose as you know you practically would
flood the car - what do you then do?
Like the ‘49 Dodge is ever going to
get muddy dirty...Yea, Right!!


•IMO: Steady as you go.
-You’ve already established an acceptable
(to you), and an easily explainable (to any
critiquers), WW cleaning methodology.



Bob