Need advice on how to remove this defect

[Altec]

Hi everyone, i need some help identifying and removing this defect in the picture below. It looks like water mark etching on the paint but i am not 100% sure. They look like dimples on the paint.Its mostly on the hood,trunk and roof of the car. The car is a 2 year old honda with factory paint.

Have tried the following but did not seem to have removed any of it

1) Meguiars D300 with MF cutting disc
2) Menzerna 400 with LC orange cutting pad

Should i go straight to Menzerna 400 with MF cutting pad? Have always heard about the soft paint of Honda so am a little worried if it would cut too much.

Thanks all!

64206


64208

64207

64209

[Goonie75]

If its etching.... I had some similar etching I saw with lot cars. I couldn't get them out. Had to carefully wet sand. Not 100% sure that's what it is but maybe a little careful wet sanding might help. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)

[Altec]

If its etching.... I had some similar etching I saw with lot cars. I couldn't get them out. Had to carefully wet sand. Not 100% sure that's what it is but maybe a little careful wet sanding might help. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)

Have never done wet sanding before so not very confident to do it. Nevertheless, i think i will try it out. I have only 2000 grit sand paper, will this work?

[sudsmobile]

If you've never wet sanded before, I would tread VERY CAREFULLY. You can't put paint back.

[Altec]

If you've never wet sanded before, I would tread VERY CAREFULLY. You can't put paint back.

Noted thanks! I will do it with care.

[Goonie75]

I agree with Suds. Can't put it back. 2000. 2500. 3000. 2000 to 2500 one might be able to confidently remove induced scratches with a good compound then polish. Just use a block of some sort. Keep it moist and check often. Be careful and good luck.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's one of you pictures, it shows a "depression" in the paint, hard to say what caused it.


https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachments/auto-detailing-101-a/64207d1531045560-need-advice-how-remove-defect-img_4096-jpg



Here's my article that helps most people to wrap their brain around how thin their car's factory finish is,


Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/87410-clearcoats-thin-mike-phillips.html)



Here's what I've been typing for years,

Sanding removes paint.
Compounding removes paint
Polishing removes a little paint


Here's something else I've been typing for years, based upon first-hand experience,

Words cannot express the heart-sinking feeling that overcomes you with grief when you discover you have buffed through the clearcoat and exposed the basecoat" -Mike Phillips



The only remedy once you burn through the clear is to repaint.


For what it's worth, if it were me, I would hand or machine sand with some Trizact #3000 grit. You can purchase a single disc and "yes" you can use it by hand or machine.


3M Trizact 6 Inch 3000 Grit Performance Sanding Disc 01459 (https://www.autogeek.net/3m-sanding-disc-01459.html)


Sorry to say the #5000 discs are not available as singles but you can by a pack of them and also boxes of 3" discs of #3000 and #5000 Trizact. Probably the highest quality sanding disc on the market and also the "safest".



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....

I have an article that shows these discs in action....

3M Trizact 6 Inch 3000 Grit Performance Sanding Disc 01459 - Singles (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/50530-3m-trizact-6-inch-3000-grit-performance-sanding-disc-01459-singles.html)


Sanding out an isolated defect
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/834/3M3000Grit004.jpg



:)

[TTQ B4U]

Given it's a Honda that likely has thinner and a fairly soft finish, I'd leave it. I know it may bug you a bit but IMO it's not worth trying to level out given doing so will impact the surface around it. IMO that's perhaps more harm than the good that might result. Just an alternative view perhaps. Looks to me and is likely true that you really worked on it to keep a great finish. Doubtful anyone but you will notice those with the rest of the vehicle looking so nice.

[howardpurchase]

Given it's a Honda that likely has thinner and a fairly soft finish, I'd leave it. I know it may bug you a bit but IMO it's not worth trying to level out given doing so will impact the surface around it. IMO that's perhaps more harm than the good that might result. Just an alternative view perhaps. Looks to me and is likely true that you really worked on it to keep a great finish. Doubtful anyone but you will notice those with the rest of the vehicle looking so nice.

Very practical thinking!

Sent from my LG-H831 using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)

[Jon TDS]

Yeah I would just leave it too. I would assume it only shows up under a specific angle of light right? Looks to be orange peel that was partially sanded.

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

[JCDetails]

Not worth chasing out unless you're prepared to repaint the panel. Given that you've already gone D300+MF and FG400+Orange, I would not proceed without knowing what's left.

To me, like Mike said, it looks like a depression almost like a drip or run that someone tried to take care of. If you have access to a paint gauge, i'd be willing to bet that area is thicker than the rest of the car, having had repair work done. Take readings all around the car, including the area to be repaired, and then take readings in each door jamb. The door jamb will have minimal paint and clear for coverage and should give you an idea of the bottom end of the overall paint thickness on the car.

I.e. if you take readings all around the car, and most panels are 100-120, the hood reads 150, and the door jambs read 50, you know you have quite a bit of paint to work with on the hood, and slightly less to work with elsewhere.

I would take PTG readings, and if you've got the room, I'd start with a handful of light passes with 3000 grit, then FG400 on microfiber and see where that lands.

[Rsurfer]

Not worth chasing out unless you're prepared to repaint the panel. Given that you've already gone D300+MF and FG400+Orange, I would not proceed without knowing what's left.

To me, like Mike said, it looks like a depression almost like a drip or run that someone tried to take care of. If you have access to a paint gauge, i'd be willing to bet that area is thicker than the rest of the car, having had repair work done. Take readings all around the car, including the area to be repaired, and then take readings in each door jamb. The door jamb will have minimal paint and clear for coverage and should give you an idea of the bottom end of the overall paint thickness on the car.

I.e. if you take readings all around the car, and most panels are 100-120, the hood reads 150, and the door jambs read 50, you know you have quite a bit of paint to work with on the hood, and slightly less to work with elsewhere.

I would take PTG readings, and if you've got the room, I'd start with a handful of light passes with 3000 grit, then FG400 on microfiber and see where that lands.

150 mic on the hood of a Honda that is OEM?

To the OP, are you sure it has not been re-sprayed?

[JCDetails]

150 mic on the hood of a Honda that is OEM?

To the OP, are you sure it has not been re-sprayed?

No, I said I suspected it was resprayed and these defects are a result of a suspect respray.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87407)