McKees 37 iron remover question

[Richs66]

Hi, just wanted to try this out today, car was a little dusty, so I'm not sure I threw enough on, didn't want to hit my new vinyl stripes so I just sprayed on the side panels......don't know if I didn't leave it on long enough, was worried about drying on me, so I let it on for about 3 minutes, sprayed off, then washed the car, then clayed the car, then washed the clay off, then washed the car again, then used Meg UFF

Taking it I'm doing too many steps here. lol..........now the problem is I still have quite a few specs of iron rust on the car..........so do I need to use more product or start rubbing the stuff around.

Another thought if this is from brake dust etc...........do I do a de-con every week, because I'm using the brakes.

I'm wondering if I'm better off just doing a panel at a time making sure the stuff comes off. Would like to hear from your guys how your going about this deal............

Pics arnt the best........but you can see little specs still in the paint.

Ive had the car now for 10 months, so this is the first de-con to it from new.

Rich

[Richs66]

On the pic of the side of the car, cant to magnify here, but at home when doing it on the pic, you can see where its turning red.

[Richs66]

One last thing, tried doing a search, but nothing really came up............Is it ok to spray the iron remover on and rub on it some to cover the panel better.

Rich

[crovello]

What did you use for clay? Clay has always removed all of those spots for me.

Dave

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I typically saturate the vehicle. On a white car it should look like a stuck pig. This is on a brand-new Mustang Ecoboost. When the photo was taken, it had 35 miles on it from the dealer:


https://cache.nebula.phx3.secureserver.net/obj/NDMyMDBENDRBMDdEQzFGODRDQUY6YmM2ZmY2OTI0OTE5NTkxYm NlNjAzYzQ2ZmI0ZTFiMTk=?uid=799ad7a5-7088-4b18-8606-8ce593a107ae


Instead of rinsing it off, while the iron remover is still on the vehicle, I go right for the AG Foam Gun and saturate the vehicle with my pre-wash, then proceed to wash vehicle (2BM w/ Chenille wash mitts).


https://cache.nebula.phx3.secureserver.net/obj/NDMyMDBENDRBMDdEQzFGODRDQUY6NTVlNWMxNWYxNDAzNzFhMT FhOTVkMzkzYWFjZTdiM2U=?uid=5432b180-adb6-4c07-9573-dd85eafb4b0b



After your clay, you didn't do any polishing? If your paint is in pretty good shape (typical light love marks from towels and no RIDS), you could have done a DA w/ BlackFIRE All in One or HD Speed. Then top off with your UFF. I typically don't use Iron Remover or Clay if I'm not prepared to do some form of paint correction after.

Sounds like you went a bit gingerly on the disruption of product. I personally use and love McKeey's Extreme Iron Remover.

[Richs66]

Dave, I used one of those "Clayzilla" pads, thinking of going back to the regular clay.

LSN.....I see I probably didn't use enough, guess you only get one car out of a bottle.........so I take it you guys do not rub the iron remover while its on your paint.......seeing I don't have enough to really hose the car down again, could I get away with just putting some on a applicator and touch the few spots remaining.

I was gonna hit the car with some HD Speed after claying, but didn't realize I had to go somewhere with my wife, so I threw on some UFF, figured better than nothing. Looks like I"ll be doing this again.

Any other tips would be great

Rich

[fly07sti]

IIRC you can actually let the McKee’s iron remover dry without causing damage. I’ve used many gallons of it and never once had an issue with it.

[Maxreed241]

Hi, just wanted to try this out today, car was a little dusty, so I'm not sure I threw enough on, didn't want to hit my new vinyl stripes so I just sprayed on the side panels......don't know if I didn't leave it on long enough, was worried about drying on me, so I let it on for about 3 minutes, sprayed off, then washed the car, then clayed the car, then washed the clay off, then washed the car again, then used Meg UFF

Taking it I'm doing too many steps here. lol..........now the problem is I still have quite a few specs of iron rust on the car..........so do I need to use more product or start rubbing the stuff around.

Another thought if this is from brake dust etc...........do I do a de-con every week, because I'm using the brakes.

I'm wondering if I'm better off just doing a panel at a time making sure the stuff comes off. Would like to hear from your guys how your going about this deal............

Pics arnt the best........but you can see little specs still in the paint.

Ive had the car now for 10 months, so this is the first de-con to it from new.

Rich

I wash the vehicle first to remove any debris and dirt. I prefer to have a clean surface then decontaminate. I spray one side of the vehicle let dwell for a few minutes then I agitate the iron remover with the wash mitt of the Nanoskin Autoscrub. After that, I rinse the panel and then clay it with the other side of the clay mitt. I found this method to be fairly fast when mechanically and chemically decontaminating a vehicle. Hope this helps.

[SWETM]

First I would test to apply the iron remover again on some of the remaining spots. And see if those bleed again and really is oxidized iron particals.

When it's much of iron fallout I like to do the prewash foam and clean rinse and the 2bm wash. This is to if needed I could aggitate the hard sitting iron particals. And before the iron remover I apply a tar remover so if it's also are tar and other dirt that hangs on to the iron particals gets desolved. I also blow dry or towel dry the most of the water of so the tar remover and iron remover don't dilutes to much. The tar remover as the first step when cleaning wheels is very effective to do. IME the use of a PW to clean rinse off both the tar remover and iron remover is most effective. Then after if I still see some iron particals on the paint I apply some more and see if it's still bleeds. If so a second round with the iron remover is done. If it's still bleeds after this I break out the clay to get the last of the iron particals off. The clay bar is the most effective to do this with if it's those hard imbedded iron particals.

One thing I'm intrested to try out is to combine the iron remover as a clay lube with a clay bar. This has Britemax developed with a certain chemical resistant clay. But would be ready to polish after this as it's seems to be an aggressive method.

Here is a decon kit but you can get it separately.

Britemax Extreme Decontamination Combo (https://www.autogeek.net/britemax-decon-kit.html)